Monday, March 30, 2020

It all started with bush fire smoke, somewhere in January

The initial "discomfort in throat" quickly turned into a sporadic but annoying cough.  It felt like medium-coarse sand paper (grade 800, wet & dry) being jammed in the upper airways.  "It will go away" I told myself.
It didn't. Instead, it turned into an irritating hourly ritual of unhealthiness which annoyed the hell out of everyone around me. But it wasn't the cough - it was the sleep deprivation that drove me crazy. Finally, two weeks ago, I went to see my GP for a checkout.
"You are perfectly fine, it's not coronavirus", she said.  "It will go away".
"When?" "In two weeks. If it doesn't, then come to see me again. Actually, don't come to see me. It will go away."
"It's not going away for 3 months now"
"Yes, I know" - he said - "I've been coughing myself for 6 months. It is irritating, but it won't kill you. It is most likely hereditary."

That night I called my brother who specialises in public health.
Ten minutes later, my mother was on the line. "Your brother told me you are coughing like a donkey. I can't believe you are not drinking onion tea! Start drinking it now, you will be like new by Friday!".
Bloody hell, the onion tea! How could I forget that good old Slavic recipe, the universal cure for any illness known to humans and small domestic animals?
"Boil one onion in a litre of water for 10 minutes. Drink 3 times per day."
Yes, it' simple as that. Does the tea smell and taste like onion? Of course it does. But if you are coughing like a donkey, it is the most pleasant taste ever. Because - it works.

Did it go away? Of course, like my GP said - in exactly two weeks’ time.

The Holy Trinity of Smiths and 'Artes Mechanicae'

We started shaping metal 12,000 years ago: copper, bronze and gold. The first metal objects were created for their artistic value. After all, the soft copper and gold were no replacement for utilitarian stone tools, perfected over tens of thousands of years.


The discovery and smelting of iron was a game changer, but it would take another 3000 years before we entered 'the iron age'. The issue holding us back was the high melting point of iron (1530 deg C). The ancient kilns were unable to produce temperatures above 900 C.  However, with technical advancement in smelting furnaces, the iron which could be found in abundance replaced the bronze. It was also lighter, cheaper and most importantly stronger metal, suitable for anything from weapons to ploughs.

Romans were first true metal smiths, who skilfully used silver, zinc, iron, mercury, arsenic, antimony, lead, gold, copper and tin as numerous other alloys. However, with the fall of the Roman empire, many of those metallurgy skills were lost for next 1000 years, until the 'Vandals' rediscovered the lost craft.

And then, it all exploded in Europe once again in the late Middle ages and Renaissance. With the fall of Constantinople and rediscovery of ancient scientific texts - and invention of printing which democratised learning-   great advancements occurred in physics, astronomy, mathematics, engineering and manufacturing.

The Holy Trinity of Smiths - locksmiths, gunsmiths and clockmakers - gave birth to fascinating utilitarian objects.  Artes mechanicae (mechanical arts) were based on the practice of skills. While ungratefully called servile and vulgar by those who practiced academic disciplines and "liberal arts", mechanical arts changed and shaped the modern world in an amazing, practical way.

A few months ago, a book titled 'American Genius' landed on my desk. It is one of those very special books, so narrowly focused on a subject that you would never have a need to look for. A book that finds you, not the other way around; a book which provides an amazing answer to a question rarely asked: what happens when a locksmith and a clockmaker work together, when two geniuses collaborate, strive, improve, innovate - and give a birth to an object whose purpose becomes irreplaceable for hundreds of years, yet invisible to the common eye?

“American Genius: Nineteenth-century Bank locks and Time locks” reads as crime novel. Two trades - both deeply rooted in secrecy - not without a reason - and their colourful Masters with magical skills to help a locked-out banker, who spent nights trying to pick competitor's locks, to learn each other’s secrets while doing anything humanly possible to be known as the inventors of 'unpickable locks' themselves.

Take for example one Harry Miller, who in 1924 entered the trade as a locksmith apprentice at age 12. Only a few years later, Harry developed his expertise in opening the best and most complex safes and locks of the era. He was called upon to open safes for the US Military, the safe in the White House for President Roosevelt, and even a gold bullion chest for Chiang Kai-shek. Harry was known as 'the most dynamic and knowledgeable' figure in the history of American vaults. His secret? He was able to understand the weaknesses of safes and learn from them.  

Here is another gem: around 1800 Bramah and Co were the makers of the 'most secure lock' of the time.  Bramah was so confident that his lock was unpickable that their Piccadilly shop in London offered a reward of 210 pounds for anyone who could pick a Bramah padlock - a challenge that would go unanswered for more than 50 years. And then, in 1851, an American by the name of Alfred C Hobbs arrived to London. It took him 20 minutes to open the padlock and claim the massive reward. The defeat was felt by the entire nation, as recorded by Times of London:

"We believed before the exhibition opened we had the best lock in the world, and among us Bramah and Chubb were reckoned quite as impregnable as Gibraltar - more so, indeed, for the key of Mediterranean was taken by us, but none among us could penetrate into the locks and shoot the bolt of these makers".

Yes, no lock or vault is impervious to theft. A safe or vault can however be made impossible to crack without arousing alarm. And in this game, time itself is of the essence. The need for locks fitted with a clock mechanism which would prevent the opening of the safe even if the combination is known to burglars was a major advancement in safe protection. It came about as a result of a rather unpleasant event, the 1867 robbery of Northampton National Bank, Massachusetts:

"The so-called Great Burglary began not at the bank but soon after midnight at the home of John Whittelsey, a bank cashier, two thirds of a mile away. Seven robbers, one for each resident, burst into the house and tied up the Whittelsey family, demanding that John divulge the combination to the banks safe, and when he gave them the numbers, they diligently took then down. After the short period, they demanded that he repeat the combination, but having given the false one made up on the spot, he could not recall it now. The robbers tortured Whittelsey, obtaining the true combination, stealing more than $500,000 in banknotes, stock certificates and bonds. Three of the perpetrators were later captured and all the money was recovered, but the message to the banking industry was clear: with the newest combination locks, the weak point in the security system was now the human element. Bankers would need a lock that would keep out not just the robbers, but bankers as well".

From this- the time lock was born. Designed to protect the riches from every threat, these beautiful devices embody the evolution of locks technology. These handcrafted masterpieces are elaborately decorated with intricate engravings and castings despite the fact that they will be never seen by public.
"American Genius" is a feast for the eyes. With hundreds of high-quality photos and detailed descriptions of time locks, it covers the golden century of American craftsmanship. It is a must read for a technically minded and curious enthusiast, from an apprentice to an engineer, from a locksmith to a watchmaker, and perhaps, the most, from a banker and his antithesis - the lock picker. 
                     

Friday, March 27, 2020

Don't buy a lemon!

It only cost $200, but it will save you tens of thousands. It is small in size, but of mighty power. And most importantly, this amazing instrument will take your appreciation of watches, and your watch collecting addiction, to the next level. 

We have spent almost two days filming this educational video and we have no doubt you will love it. It is simply called "Don't buy a lemon". 

Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hih0ymWUarU

If you have any questions or wish for us to tackle a specific horological issue then please feel free to email us directly at ask@clockmaker.com.au and thank you for subscribing to our YouTube channel, it is much appreciated. 

What is an annual calendar function?



The Aqua Terra Annual Calendar is simply: super cool. Unlike 'dumb' watches, an annual calendar is a smart mechanical computer which can tell the difference between the months with 30 days and 31 days and it will display the correct month and date all year round without the need of any further adjustments.

We have put up a short video showing how easy it is to quick set the annual calendar. Unlike with many other day date or triple calendar watches, Aqua Terra Annual Calendar can be quick set at any time without the worry of putting the watch 'out of whack' (a costly mistake!). Actually, you can't get it out of whack - even if you want to!

Watch the video here: https://youtu.be/dd1SVE69h8M 

A word about the video itself:

At a time when small businesses are melting down, we are doing our absolute best to remain at your service. Right now, we are creating videos that will help us stay in touch. As you would imagine, a video production keeps us busy but keeps us focused on learning. When you click on the link, like the video, and subscribe to our YouTube channel then this is the ultimate reward for our small crew.

Thank you for your continued support.                       

Monday, March 16, 2020

Business as usual in March 2020

The buzz word of the week: self-isolation. My goodness, I can't wait for 2 weeks of FUN: no bloody customers, no phone calls, no unwanted emails. No public transport hassle either- just endless streaming of Netflix, YouTube documentaries, stock market horror stories & reports. Homemade food – and countless hours playing with toys.

But hang on - I've just described YOUR life! For me, business as usual! Yes, we are open by appointments only - but we ARE open. With a pile of watches to list, and a pile of watches to repair - and assemble - life goes on.

Self-isolation is not the end of the world. Pull out your watches, give them a wind, kick them in motion - and have some fun. Change straps. Clean bracelets; polish those plexi glasses to a mirror finish. Of course, if you haven't done it yet - do your watch inventory. I can't think of a better time to do so than now!

Your inventory sheet should be detailed: stock number, model reference, serial numbers - all numbers visible on the watch - as well as a thorough description. Don't forget the important bit: price paid and what you believe is the current market value. Take a few photos of your stock and keep them on file. It goes without saying that your inventory sheet should be kept separately from your watches, and away from prying eyes.

The inventory sheet is absolutely priceless. It serves a number of purposes: from helping with determining which watches need a 'proper' insurance valuation, to helping you assess of your collection's monetary value. You may be surprised how much you've 'made' on certain pieces - and how other watches pathetically under-performed over the years. That's life.

Of course, if you wish to trim your collection and sell a piece or two, get in touch. Watches always wanted!

Looking to add to your collection? Our entire stock is listed here: http://clockmaker.com.au/wfs1.html

We ship the moment that payment is received, which in most cases is the same day. In a day or two, the watch will be on your wrist.     


As of 16/03/2020
                     

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

NH2 No.12 Timascus/Titanium

If you're new to horology then here is a brief summary. An independent watchmaker is a watchmaker who is not part of a major brand or manufacturer. A small maker who makes watches under his own brand; usually a one-man band.

Of course, no two independents are the same and each one will have its own story to tell. For some of them, it's all about the design, others focus on finishes or complications, and a handful even embark on a journey of making their own watch components in their own workshops. The final product reflects everything that the independent stands for, and since the watch manufacturing process is an endless pursuit of perfection and creativity loaded with technical challenges so are the timepieces themselves. A practical creative journal in time.

Independents have been around for ever but its only in the past 20 years -thanks to the internet- that their work has become known to a wider audience. Yet only a few have attained true global recognition including F P Journe, Philippe Dufour, Derek Pratt,  Constantin Chaykin, Kari Voutilainen, Vianney Halter.

If watchmaking is a calling, then independent watchmaking is a curse. A lifetime of solitude, trying to prove a point- whatever that point might be. One thing is certain: independent watchmaking is not about money it is about satisfaction.

This morning, after two months of making, NH2 No.12 Timascus/Titanium movement has finally been completed. This is our first watch featuring guilloche decoration on a 3/4 bridge and balance cock. No. 12 is the most challenging project so far, and even last week I still wasn't sure whether the watch would be completed. While giving up was never an option, the longer we worked on it, it became more and more obvious that No. 12 is a labour of love.

The most difficult moment was on 19th February, when late Wednesday night, I got a phone call from Josh informing me that the main spindle on a Kern had to be shut down. The pump which circulates the coolant liquid through the main spindle had failed. Calls like this from the workshop are the calls I dread the most.

Bringing the mill in for service could mean weeks of delay and tens of thousands of euros. The worst feeling of all is the uncertainty. My only instruction to Josh was 'Gather as much data as you can, and contact the Germans'. It was around midnight when Josh called again. He was able to disassemble the pump motor, and pinpoint the fault- a failed impeller and pressure valve. By 10 o'clock Monday morning our pump parts arrived in Sydney. On Tuesday, the five axis mill was back in action.

NH2 No. 12 is much more than a watch, it is testimony of what is possible when enthusiastic and talented young independent watchmakers work together.  It is also a testimony to 'Manufactured in Australia'. A small colony down under, probably the least suitable country for watchmaking of all.

NH2 No.12 Timascus/Titanium is available for inspection at our Sydney office.

Price: $8,900


For more images/videos see our instagram here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B9k2E8Cpmbr/

Thursday, February 13, 2020

Manufactured in Australia- see for yourself

This short video was filmed on Australia Day, and if you are an Australian, or watch enthusiast, it will make you proud.

The video only lasts a minute and a bit, but it is a culmination of three years effort. Filmed in Brookvale.

Strangely enough, the watch featured at the end of the video is on its way to a watch collector in Switzerland. Can't be more proud than that- selling coal to Newcastle.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IN6yqwCL3s0

Monday, February 3, 2020

'Watch and Act' Auction: The Result

In one word: success. Thanks to the combined generosity of watch brands and watch enthusiasts, a number of watches sold way above the pre-auction estimates. Indeed, Mark 1 exceeded our expectations, and sold for $6,100! The even better news is that the watch is set to stay in Australia! Of course the credit for organising the watch auction goes to Time and Tide.
"Mark 1 is our regular stock, a bread and butter time piece." A 40mm unisex case size would suit equally a man's or lady's wrist, and fitted on a range of leather straps it is light and comfortable and would be fantastic for everyday wear.

Thursday, January 30, 2020

Knifemaker Feature: Part 2

This week, the work of two bladesmiths have come to our attention, and we have again chosen to share their stories with you. 
***Ulysse Robert
"I'm a trained watchmaker/jeweller who developed an interest for knives over the years. I currently work in a small workshop in the province of Quebec (Canada) making various types of knives and tools.

Like watchmaking, bladesmithing is a field where one never stops learning. I like making knives that challenge me in both design and construction as much as possible. I also find great satisfaction in taking raw materials and combining them together to create not only a functional tool, but an object of beauty.

Recently, I had the opportunity of combining my passion for horology and bladesmithing by creating custom watchmaker's case openers. They are all made individually from my own damascus steel following the watchmaker's specifications.

My favourite type of knives are the ones that I know will be used by the customer, from a large kitchen knife to a small folding knife. Knowing that one of my blades will be used and cherished by its owner for many years to come is what makes me happy at the end of the day. "


Instagram: @ulysserobertknives
Website: https://www.ulysserobertknives.com/
***Trevor McDonough
"I began making custom knives in November 2013 while in high school. I wanted my father’s Christmas present to be special that year so I came up with the idea of making him a knife for when we would go camping and fishing. I never had the intention of making knives to sell but quickly it would become my full time job.

I began with almost zero knowledge of making a knife other than it had to be hardened somehow and be sharp. After over 60 hours of work and dozens of hours of research, I had completed my father’s knife with its rough shape, filed bevels, rudimentary heat treat, and crude Osage orange wood scales. While labouring on this piece I fell in love with the process of taking a piece of steel and turning it into something beautiful and useful.

I quickly began reaching out to other knife makers and tried to soak up as much knowledge as I possibly could. Being so young and so enthusiastic about the process of making a knife these other makers were excited to share their tips and tricks of making a quality knife with me. I was also fortunate enough to live close to Rob Thomas, a world class Damascus smith who took me under his wing and taught me how to forge a quality steel. I began investing all of my money into new machines and spent most of my days designing with dreams of making a folder.

I finished my first folder in July 2014 and since then have created several other models that have opened up new knowledge and trials for me. One of my favourite and best knives I have made to this day has a san mai blade that Rob Thomas and myself forged with a thunderstorm Kevlar micarta overlay on the show scale and for the back spacer. Trying new materials, styles, and fine tuning details to perfection is now my passion and I am extremely grateful to everyone who has supported me and helped me make this dream a reality."

Website:https://desertbladeworks.com/

Manufactured in Brookvale

We are excited! This week we reached another important milestone with NH2... the guilloche of timascus! 'Guilloché' is a decorative technique reserved exclusively for the decoration of brass watch dials using a stationary cutting tool moved over the surface creating trenches and grooves. The more detailed the design, the more eye-catching the pattern is. It goes without saying that even the smallest imperfection would stand out like a sore thumb. There are only a handful of dial makers who 'do guilloche' in the traditional way.

Our guilloche is created using a high precision, modern CNC mill. We use much smaller tools that can be turned between 40 to 50 thousand rpm. This allows for not just much finer grooves but we can guilloche extremely hard materials like Titanium and Timascus; and decorate not just a dial but all internal watch components! The end result is simply amazing. The combination of three timascus alloys; the uniqueness of the colours; and the accuracy of each pass of the cutting tool; and the intricacy of the pattern means our guilloche looks more like a hologram than a ‘three dimensional’ surface. The grooves are so fine that they feel more like a smooth glass surface under your finger.

The first prototypes are in the workshop as we speak, and we expect to have the first fully decorated bridges ready to be assembled in around three months. I wish I could disclose more, but at this stage I would not want for this to be copied by the Swiss or the Chinese!     
                 

Friday, January 24, 2020

BREAKING NEWS- Watch and Act!

*** BREAKING NEWS- Watch and Act! - 2020 World Watch Auction in Aid of the Australian Wildfire Crisis. 
At midday yesterday, a rather urgent message interrupted an already hectic day: it was Andrew from Time and Tide. "We need a watch for an upcoming auction: Deadline: tomorrow".   There was not a slightest doubt in my mind that a request to donate a watch for such a worthy cause could only be answered with yes, happy to help.  But a twenty-four-hour deadline meant that a Timascus piece - that takes at least 2 months to machine - would be out of the question.  On the other hand, to donate a standard stock watch would be too ordinary.   "When are you going to make me a watch?" pestered Tanya for years. I was reluctant to answer, but not without reason: a 44mm ‘Rebelde’ was too large for her wrist; and she stopped wearing her Cartier Tank when we started our own brand. Patience!

Finally, in February last year, a Mark 1 prototype with serial number 1/200, a custom red rotor and kangaroo strap became her first 'special' watch. And she has been wearing it since, daily.   “Sorry Tanya, I need your Mark 1 back to the workshop. Kind of urgent, will tell you more later”.   All I can say is – bid strongly. Currently, there are 17 watches being auctioned: H Moser, Bulgari, Longines, Hublot, Zenith and a few other brands which kindly donated timepieces for a good cause. Amongst them: two humble Australian brands.

I would love to see Mark 1 No. 1 staying in Australia, rather than being shipped overseas and I am sure that you would too. There is not much I can do to make it happen, but if you're a subscriber to my newsletter and end up being the highest bidder, the watch will come with the same guarantee offered to Tanya- a free lifetime guarantee. As long as I'm around, the watch will be taken care of.

All funds raised (100% of it) will be equally disbursed to the following charities: The Country Fire Authority @CFAVIC Wildlife Victoria @WILDLIFEVICTORIA Gippsland Emergency Relief Fund WWW.GERF.ORG.AU New South Wales Rural Fire Service @NSWRFS World Wildlife Fund @WWF_AUSTRALIA
PS. This is an international auction, bidding in US dollars.                         

Thursday, January 16, 2020

The second oldest tool: Knifemaker Feature

We love people who shape metal with their bare hands! Today, a quick introduction to no less than four craftsman, metalsmith knife makers! Knives need no introduction: the second oldest tool, still in continuous use - whose basic construction hasn't changed since day it was invented. An irreplaceable tool or a deadly weapon - simply and beautifully crafted, treasured, and worn with pride.

I have a real appreciation for people that are patient and determined enough to practise and perfect a true skill; particularly in industries where the standard for large corporations is mass production and low costs. I especially take interest when children and young adults demonstrate an early desire to learn how to design and machine their own creations.

Yesterday, I sent out a notice to knifemakers who also happen to follow our projects, asking them to share stories about their craft with us.

Meet Jackson Rumble from Canberra, Aidan MacKinnon from Melbourne, Clement Linder from Bern / Switzerland, and Bjorn Jacobsen from Sydney's Northern Beaches - our neighbour.

I hope these four short stories will motivate you to excel in what you do/make/design.
***Jackson Rumble
"I started making knives in 2013 after taking a knife making course at the Tharwa Valley Forge. Over the next few years I set up a basic shop in my parents’ garage. Starting out with some very basic tools, I gradually expanded getting my first belt grinder in 2015.

In 2016 I started making knives full time at the Tharwa Valley Forge. Later on that year I started teaching knife making and blade smithing classes. Which I’m still currently doing.

2019 was a massive year for me. I started working towards testing for my journeyman smith ranking with the American Bladesmithing Society. After around 8 months of painfully tedious work I achieved my JS stamp and was awarded the Joe Keeslar award for the best knife submitted by a JS applicant.

My favourite/ best knife would have to the keyhole fighter form my JS set. It was a huge challenge throughout the build, I was forced to rethink many of my processes. But well worth it in the end!


My advice would be to take as many classes and learn from as many different people as possible. There is something to learn from everyone.The best advice I received was to plan and draw each one of my knives before starting work."

If you would like to see more of Jackson's work, follow his instagram - @rumble_knives. 

The Damascus knife in the photo is made from 1075/ 15n20 carbon steel. The steel stock took 4 days to make, and the whole knife took around 2 weeks to finish up. 

My 2 favourite handle timbers are: Gidgee from Australia, and Desert 
Ironwood from the US. They are both extremely hard, durable and look fantastic!
***Aidan Mackinnon
"I am a full time bladesmith (knife maker) specializing in bespoke handmade kitchen knives working out of my workshop in Melbourne.

Knives are often our primary interaction between ourselves and our food - It is with this in mind that Cut Throat Knives are designed to enhance the cooking experience.

All our knives are handcrafted and sole authorship (just one person works on the knife from start to finish). They are made from the finest materials available with the care and attention that precision cutting tools deserve, with each blade spending roughly 20-25 hours a bladesmiths hands.

In a world of increasingly disposable, valueless items, where homes and garage sales and superstores are packed with mediocre pieces that are bought, used, and ignored, what could be more important than learning once again to value what we buy, and feel a connection to the people who create around us?"


If you would like more information about Aidan's work, here is a link to his website: http://www.cutthroatknives.com.au/
and his instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cutthroataustralia/
***Clement Linder
"I started making knives at the age of 14. I always liked making stuff and someday I got the idea that I could make a knife. I love knifemaking because of the combination of different materials like steel, wood, composite materials etc. It just never gets boring. The attention to detail needed in knifemaking is almost as crazy as in watchmaking. Every part of the knife must be finished by hand.

My favourite kind of knives are kitchen knives. They are interesting to make, and everyone can use it. I really like combining Japanese blade shapes with western style handles.

I’m currently doing an apprenticeship as a machinist. And with access to the equipment we have at school, the possibility of making more complicated knives opened up to me. I started designing my first folding knife, and after a few prototypes I machined 15 knives.

Last September I was lucky that Titan Gilroy (Titans of CNC on Youtube) came to Switzerland and visited our school. He liked what I did and decided to make a short film about my folding knife (
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86KZxZ4_Afc&feature=youtu.be)"

***Bjorn Jacobson
Originally from Norway where knife making is a traditional hobby, I started again in Australia some years ago.
In the beginning I was doing “kit knife making” where the blade is ready-made and I was making my own handles.
Over time I started forging and grinding my own blades, and today also run workshops in Sydney in chef knife making and blacksmithing.

Ray Mears is quoted as saying 'Carbon steel has soul, stainless has not.' I tend to also prefer carbon steel with its ability to be forged to shape. There is something primal in shaping a knife by hammer and fire, a connection to our human past of shaping the world to our will by hand. Seeing the steel coming out of the forge and be guided by the hammer and take on a new form is a powerful experience. I enjoy working with natural materials like wood, leather and antler and seeing an idea come to life.

For chef knives I prefer stainless steel due to ease of maintenance, carbon steel in the kitchen tends to patina a bit much. I like the Swedish stainless steel 12c27 for ease of heat treatment in my hobby workshop. It is a good combination of edge retention, corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening for my everyday knives.

Even my chef knives tend to be with Curly Birch handles, a Scandinavian pale hardwood that I just love the look of. I often stain the curly birch with dark leather dye, then sand it again to take some or most of the stain off. Like on this chef knife showing the grain structure of the wood through the stain and polish.
The chef knife in the photo is one my favourites and we still use it every day, it was one of my assessment knives for the Australian Knifemakers Guild."

Bjorn@CreativeMan.com.au