Thursday, August 24, 2023

Beyond watchmaking

You are only as good as your last job.

Yesterday afternoon, Josh started a new medical part project. A few hours later, the part was designed, the mill was tooled, holding jig made - and part machined.
 
Here is what it looks like:
And here is the actual photo, of the part, in his hand.
The thickness of the part is 40 microns, about half of the thickness of a human hair. Diameter: less than half a millimetre.
 
He posted the part on his LinkedIn page, and it went viral, with 46,000 views. Followers who comment on LinkedIn are actually people in engineering and machining, CEOs in manufacturing, many of whom have never seen such a small part.
Testimony to Manufactured in Australia. The size and complexity of this component takes us beyond watchmaking because while some parts in the watchmaking industry are about this size, they are not nearly as complex, nor challenging to make.                         

The frosted meteorite

It only took an hour or so for about 20 subscribers to figure out not just the brand but the exact model of my new watch. You guys are just crazy. Serious respect, beyond humbling.

Of course, this morning I flexed the watch to Josh. "You look like a 40 year old schoolboy" he said. I pretended I didn't hear the insult. "I'm loving it! Carbon case, made by people we've met in Switzerland!"

"No it's not. Those cases are machined, where your case is made of sintered carbon flakes, moulded under high pressure. Not a bad technology, invented and marketed by Hublot who released a $100K watch in that very case. Unfortunately a failed project - because literally the next day every case maker in China was making the exact watch. So the carbon case is not a big deal, it is the quality of the mould that makes the difference. By the way, we can make a mould ourselves if we want to." 

I wasn’t about to give up. "And the people we've met in Switzerland? Do they do the same?"
"Again, no. Their carbon is mixed with resin, then compressed, then machined. Time consuming, high-tech and expensive too."
"Can you do me a favour, pen this down so I can share it in the newsletter?" 
He was already at the door: “I'm busy making Curl Curls, do it yourself."

I've created a monster.

[To be continued...]

An unexpected act of kindness that almost brought a tear to my eye

As strange as it sounds I have never received a watch as a gift except once.

A while ago after the watch night talk a visitor to our workshop pulled out a Russian watch in a cardboard box. "This one is for you Nick. Thank you for a wonderful night". I had the watch for a few years and ended up regifting it, which I believe is an appropriate thing to do. 

Literally half an hour ago, Trent, a sales representative for Mondaine watches came to the office. He brought with him a bunch of the latest catalogues and we discussed a new order. Then, out of the blue, he showed me a watch from another brand - a sample that had just arrived to Australia. A limited edition carbon fibre body sports piece on a cherry red rubber strap. "Oh, this is an amazing watch" I said. "I am sure many of your subscribers would love it" he said.  I said: "no I would love it for myself. We actually just got back from Switzerland and I met the manufacturers who make those cases. Carbon fibre watches are really a big hit in France and Switzerland. It's such an understated material and it looks like frozen meteorite. And before I can recommend it to our subscribers I would love to wear it myself for a month. Please invoice it and send one whenever it becomes available." 

On that note Trent simple handed over the watch. "You can have it Nick. It's a present."

I really don't know what to say, I am absolutely blown away with Trent's generosity. The reason why this newsletter is delayed is because I couldn't help myself but to play with the watch. I'm not going to disclose the brand or the model but it is a Swiss automatic watch. 47mm case size, 52mm including crown. I will keep you posted over the next few weeks but if you stop by you will see me wearing it.                          

Is an automatic watch the right watch for you?

(Or would you be better off with a battery operated one?)

Battery operated watches have a number of benefits over a mechanical self-winding (automatic) watch.
Without exception, quartz watches keep much better time, they are more robust, and easier to repair.
Actually, from a practical perspective, and from the view of a watch owner who needs a watch just to tell time, nothing beats an inexpensive quartz watch.

So why would anyone invest in an expensive mechanical watch which is a rather average time keeper, complex to service and sensitive to shock and magnetic field? 

Unfortunately I have no answer to this question. Some questions are simply impossible to answer in a logical, meaningful way.

The real question is this: how do you know if an automatic watch would be a good choice for you? You don't, unless you actually try. 

Yes, it is tempting to go online and Google for a 'cheap automatic watch’. Unfortunately, very soon, you will find out that cheap automatic watches are just that - either cheap and nasty, or worn out, or in need of repair. Waste of time and waste of money.

I suggest you save your time and do the right thing: invest in a brand new automatic watch. There are plenty of choices, and as said before, nothing beats a brand new watch.

However, if you are busy, and your time is precious, and you have no desire to search thousands of watches online from thousands of sellers, I propose that you put your trust in me. I have been handling watches for decades, have sold tens of thousands, and I am more than confident to recommend an affordable, well made, automatic watch. Put it this way: if a watch of my choice does not meet your requirement and expectations, then you are simply a person better suited with a battery operated timepiece.

Why am I so confident? 

1. Money is important. You won't get a Swiss Made automatic watch of a decent quality for less than $999.

2. Design is important. You want a watch of timeless design that can be worn and enjoyed, but also passed on to the next generation.

3. Servicing is important: a watch has to be robust, reliable and above all, repairable.

4. Choice of straps: again, very important. There is nothing more annoying than to find out in two years time that a strap for your watch is no longer available, or that it costs more than the watch itself. A watch strap of an ergonomic design and standard lugs width is what you want. Any leather, any colour, any thickness - endless choices.

5. Guarantee on performance is crucial. Not 3 months or 12 months, not even 3 years. You trust my choice, and I'll be happy to offer a 5 years guarantee on performance!

So here it is: a Swiss Mondaine Railway Watch, 41mm case size, automatic, robust, reliable, repairable, water resistant with 20mm lugs width!
List price $1,099. Yours for just $999. 

Buy it, wear it for a few months, and if you are not happy with the performance of an automatic watch, then there is really no reason to look for an Omega or a Rolex. It's simple as that, risk free exercise.

There is one more thing I must stress out: the price of $999 for this watch is simply amazing. I only have a few watches in stock, and the next order is not coming in any time soon. When the new batch arrives, the price won't be the same. Be quick, take advantage of this generous offer. 
Fitted on a Hirsch Artisan Leather strap ($70)
Hirsh red stitching strap ($50)
Easy-release spring bars. No tools required to change strap.