Wednesday, November 30, 2022

Dial printing notes

 

If I had these notes 3 years ago, we could have saved time, money and quite a few sleepless nights. Since I strongly believe that one day, there will be another Australian watchmaking business in need of 'inside knowledge', I am publishing this quick version here, in order to save them time and money.

Unfortunately, there is no shortcut for sleepless nights.

Dial printing (transfer method) is as old as watch dials themselves. The revolution started in the early 1900s when porcelain pocket watch dials were replaced with mass-produced metal sheet dials. With the popularity of wrist watches, printed dials completely replaced all other traditionally manufactured dials.

While the printed dials were used by all watch brands, due to the way watches are manufactured in Switzerland, only a handful of companies specialised in dial making. This is still the case, and to this day, only a select few are in the dial making business, specialising mainly in high value dials.

The journey into dial making starts with a dial printing machine manufacturer. One industry leading company is Teca Print, located in Thayngen, literally on the Swiss / German border. Teca Print dial printing machines are used to make dials for all the top Swiss brands. They also provide all the accessories and paint, as well as the 'know how' training (AUD $1500 per day).
Good luck trying to import Swiss paint into Australia.

Luckily, a suitable dial pad printing paint is already available in Australia. Look for COATES PAD PRINTING INK TP 300. You will also need thinners and hardeners. All supplied by Milford Astor.
WARNING: safety first. Understanding the hazard of dealing with paint and related chemicals is essential.

 A cliché is a metal plate that 'contains' your artwork.  The production of pad printing clichés is highly complex and they are typically manufactured only by pad printing equipment suppliers. We've ordered our first cliché from Switzerland. However, we now have clichés made in Sydney. Eventually, we will have them made 'in house'.
In theory, the pad printing process is straight forward: the ink is applied to the cliché, picked up by a silicone pad, and then transferred to the watch dial. In reality, getting the process to work and then to fine tune it to perfection is an art form. Everything from temperature, humidity, cleanliness, to the exact paint formula, to timing and number of transfers is purely a matter of experimentation until a satisfying result is achieved.
To summarize: the machine, accessories and training come from Switzerland, but all the supplies including local support is available in Australia.
Top Swiss quality dial printing is within reach of an independent watchmaker. However, mastering the technique is challenging and time consuming. Except for a handful of Japanese independents, most other watchmakers are more than happy to outsource dial making to specialists. We are very proud of the fact that our MK2 Curl Curl dial is pad printed in-house and we are already looking into expanding our capabilities in this field in 2023.

It goes without saying that our facility remains open to fellow Australian watchmakers. We have nothing to hide! On the contrary, it would be our pleasure to assist you in your horological project.
We have uploaded a short video to Instagram showing the Teca-Print machine in action. Here is the link, check it out:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck9PM3Ahh6J/

Collecting?

 

"Hi Nick, loving the emails you send out.

I know you're a busy man, but any chance you can tell us subscribers about your personal watch collection—for example, how many you have? Maybe show some rare ones or ones that have an interesting story behind them ?

Cheers,
Wade Leaney"

 
Hi Wade,

Appreciate the question. Let's start with the obvious: watch dealers are pathetic collectors. So are watchmakers. The dealers’ collection consists of unwanted and unsold stock; the watchmakers: of broken, beyond-repair, incomplete and obscure pieces, rarely of any value. Being close to watches and dealing with them daily does not make one a collector. Quite the opposite.

Collecting is a meaningful and laser-focused effort which requires time, money, and patience; something that should be enjoyed outside business hours. (I am typing this reply at 6:05 in the morning—why am I not 'collecting'?). Great collections are built by passionate, sophisticated, and wealthy people who have plenty of time to chase that Holy Grail piece to complete their horological jigsaw puzzle.

I remember a visit to a private watch and clock museum in Switzerland, where I had the privilege of meeting with a third or fourth-generation collector, who is still building and expanding his family’s collection. A true multi-generational project. The stories about acquisitions, bidding wars, travels and relationships required to obtain those unique pieces were even more fascinating than the watches themselves. Still vividly remembered: a story of a Breguet pocket watch, which started life as a pair. The first was bought by his grandfather, the second one two generations later, reunited at a great cost—“We ended up taking a massive bridging loan, disposing of some pieces in order to complete the transaction”.  Blood, sweat and sacrifices. There are many thousands of passionate collectors out there who have amassed large collections, on almost any horological subject you can think of.  And my personal reward comes from the fact that, in a few cases, I was the one who found and provided that very special piece they were longing for. So, in a way, there is a little of “me” in their life collection, which is kind of cool.

At the end of the day, we all have our personal reasons to buy, collect, horde, pile up and amass. My reason is the fear of being judged as stupid. There is no doubt that shortly after I'm gone, someone will open my small deposit box, and curiously and patiently examine its contents. What they find in that box is going to be my final message to the world. Are they going to be amazed to discover two or three sophisticated pieces of real horological value and importance, or will they just find a box full of junk? Will they proclaim, “Wow, what a great find!” or “I can’t believe he sold tens of thousands of watches, but foolishly failed to preserve and pass on a single piece of any beauty, merit or importance.” I am not at all fearful of dying anonymously; I am fearful of dying and then forever being remembered as a fool who wasted his time and missed his opportunity to be someone worth remembering.

Am I happy with my current collection? Quite frankly, yes. Of course, I've missed countless opportunities, but I’ve still managed to hide away a piece or two worth preserving and guarding for the next generation. In particular, a certain New Zealand Railway pocket watch, as well as an important ships chronometer by a prominent maker. Both pieces should be held onto, and eventually donated to a museum, not sold. If interested, the story is here: http://nickhacko.blogspot.com/2019/07/sometimes-best-deals-are-those-that.html

When it comes to wristwatches, it’s the beauty of the mechanism and the story behind the model that matters. Everything else—condition included—is less relevant. Funnily enough, I am far more tolerant toward imperfections in my own pieces than those offered for sale. In other words, most of my vintage watches are probably a 6/10, but they have plenty of character and stories to tell.

Are we running out of stock worth collecting? Not really. Only a couple of weeks ago, there was a spectacular Zenith triple calendar moon on offer here, which was quickly snatched by a collector. I was even able to source one more, identical, for another collector which is rather unusual. I would gladly have kept either—or both—to add to my collection. Those El Primeros are simply superb pieces, which easily outshine any $100K Patek. Beyond the obvious horological value and beauty, there is one important fact that makes
them special: for the past 30 years, despite all new releases, and millions invested in marketing, Zenith failed to make a better El Primero than the original one. And they probably never will.

If I may—and this is hardly a secret to most subscribers—I have a weak spot for Seiko railway pocket watches. The plan is, to eventually, have one from every manufacturing year, from the 1930s to today. On my last count, there were more than 200 in the collection, a pile in need of classification, labelling, overhaul, and proper storage. I keep a “cheat sheet” on the wall, to remind myself that some years are still missing. 1949-51 were “dry years”, as well as 1971. Yet there is an abundance of stock from the 1950s and 60s. The first quartz model 38RW was only produced for 2 years (1978-1980) and it is an extremely hard one to find. Back in 1978, it sold for over $600 and cost more than a brand-new Rolex Submariner 5513! I am a proud owner of one, which is sealed in a plastic bag prominently marked “DO NOT SELL THIS ONE”. So, my Seiko railway pocket watches are still a work in progress. Again, if I drop dead tomorrow, they should be passed on to a new guardian, rather than a high bidder.

Whether orderly, messy, pedantic, sophisticated, obnoxious, public, private, over the top or shy and modest, our watch collection is nothing more or less than our own reflection in a mirror of time. 

Happy collecting,
Nick Hacko
Watches currently offered for sale can be found here: 
http://clockmaker.com.au/wfs1.html

Wednesday, October 19, 2022

$800 for a battery replacement? You must be joking!

Yesterday we got a call from a customer inquiring if we can do a battery replacement and water pressure test in a mid-range Swiss brand watch. Of course we can. How much? Depends, could be $50 or perhaps bit more. How much more? Hard to tell, depends on case construction and time required to complete the job. What would be the worst case scenario? $75. How long? Overnight, we are bit busy.

He was in a state of shock: the brand service quoted $800 and 21 weeks turnaround time. Obviously, the brand service was trying to sneak in 'a complete overhaul' which was not what the customer wanted or needed, but even a complete overhaul on a basic quartz movement should cost $300 at the most.

The annoying bit is that we get calls like this every day. Yesterday, we replaced a battery in a Breitling for $75 and we charged $45 for Omega Constellation. The other day, we replaced two batteries free of charge while he was buying a watch. Easy. A battery replacement is a job which requires specialist tools and bit of patience, but it is not rocket science. 

If this was never clear and obvious to watch owners, it must be obvious now: big Swiss brands are taking full advantage of you, the consumer. They are ripping you off at every opportunity, and especially so on simple jobs. If it was in their power, they would restrict the supply of every component - not just the ones they make, but even those aftermarket parts made by third-party makers. If they could, they would shut down every independent watchmaker; because to them, independent watchmakers are just annoying competition. 

It's simple: if we go out of business, you will be at the mercy of multibillion dollar corporations sucking your blood and money, mercilessly.

And you know that.

There are 6 things you can do to help us go on and serve YOU in the years to come. I am not saying 'do it now'. I am not saying 'you must do it'. It's entirely up to you, but if you opt to do it, then our longevity is guaranteed.

1. If this newsletter does not add value to your life, then please unsubscribe. The only intention of daily emails is to 'enhance your appreciation of horology' in some way or another. While the quality varies, the intention is always the same: both information and watches on offer should add something of VALUE to your life. The email is free to you, but it does cost us time and money to prepare it and deliver it. We don't want to pay Mailchimp to annoy you or spam you with the content you don't need or value. Therefore, if you've been already on the verge of leaving us – please do that today, it would be truly appreciated.

2. If you like the newsletter, stay subscribed, and recommend us to your friends. Thank you.

3. Buy a SEIKO. Not today, not tomorrow - but one day when you are ready, buy a SEIKO from us. We make money on each and every SEIKO sold. To us this is easy money: the watch arrives brand new, in perfect condition, we take your payment and we ship it. You are happy, Seiko is happy, we are happy.
Selling second hand watches is significantly more difficult than selling new ones. When you buy a Seiko from us, you help us grow.

4. Buy Mark 1. This is the only watch in our entire range sold with a decent profit. NH1, NH2 and NH3 cost more to manufacture than what they are sold for so we practically we lose money on each and every 'manufactured in Australia' watch. No pain, no glory. But when you buy Mark 1 you are literally putting cash in our pocket. 

5. If you are a serious watch collector then you should put a Mark 2 on your 'to buy' list. The first batch of 50 watches to be delivered around Christmas is already reserved, however now is the time to put your name down for the next batch, scheduled for mid 2023. No down payment is required – just your commitment. Such commitment would help us in long term planning, investment in tools and material, and investment in new machinery which will help us grow and strengthen the 'Manufactured in Australia' project. A project which benefits our employees, the Australian economy and Australian national interest. 

6. Buy a Mondaine clock for your office or a Mondaine watch as a present. Again, not today, but next time you need a smart, sophisticated present, remember us. Your friends and relatives will be pleasantly surprised; a present built to last for 20 or 30 years which could be used daily is not easy to find. We keep Mondaine in stock for that very reason.
Mark 2 "Curl Curl Waves" ($6,900). The Mark 1 is shown on the very top ($3,800).

What is Seiko Tuna?

 

In the 1960s, both Swiss and Japanese watchmakers 'worked out' that when watches were used professionally for helium saturation diving at great depths, they blew their glasses off during decompression. The problem was - Helium. Under high pressure, the inert Helium gas could enter the watch through regular gasket constructions, building up pressure inside the watch, equal to the pressure outside of the watch at that depth. Then, while decompressing the diver, the helium gas couldn't get out quickly enough, and thus the build-up pressure inside the watch caused the glass to blow off.

In order to allow for quick helium release, the Swiss decided to construct a case with a helium valve. 

The Japanese opted for another solution: to construct and build a divers watch so 'tight' that the helium couldn't enter the watch in the first place. Seiko's solution was found in a special type and construction of the gasket, combined with titanium monocoque casing.

The first Tuna was built in 1975, fitted with an automatic movement, waterproof to 600m. 

The rest is the history.

Three years later, another release: the new quartz Tuna. It was the world's first professional Diver's 600M featuring a world-class corrosion-proof, shock resistant, airtight case. 

In 1985 Seiko released a 1000m titanium Tuna with ceramic bezel protection fitted with a high grade quartz mechanism.
This was not an ordinary battery operated watch, but one fitted with a purpose built mechanism: shock resistant, high torque, and super accurate. The diver's watch standard - robust, reliable, repairable - was set by Seiko.

During the past couple of decades the market for divers watches exploded. New models offered everything from a dive computer to email and web browsing to banking. Yet only a handful of watches were still built to 1980s standard: a true 1000m water resistance. 

In 2020, the new-old Tuna was welcomed by tens of thousands of serious watch aficionados looking for 'an old fashioned, properly built, no-nonsense' divers watch. A classic watch featuring high-tech materials like titanium, coated steel, and ceramic. A repairable watch which could be passed on to the next generation. 
Inside the Tuna can
The original plan was to publish here a couple of images to show the 7C46 movement as well as the single-piece titanium case. However, since no suitable images could be found, I has no choice but to dig into it myself.

The disassembly starts with removing the 4 side screws with a 1.5mm hex key. Once the screws are removed, the ceramic 'shroud' comes off, as well as the rotating bezel. 

Underneath the bezel are two click springs which hold the bezel in position.
At this point in time, the watch is still fully waterproof, so removing the bezel protector for cleaning or for the replacement of the click/bezel itself does not affect water resistance. (Hint: you can clean the bezel yourself!)
Crystal removal requires a special tool. The crystal is held down by a screw-down bezel. Between the bezel and crystal there is a poly washer.
The crystal's rubber seal is of a special shape, designed to 'hug' the crystal when pressurised.
The crystal itself is a sapphire, flat, faceted, 4mm thick.
The next step is to remove the minute chapter ring. Underneath the chapter ring is a rubber O-ring which provides shock-absorbance for the dial and movement.
Stem removed, movement extracted form the case.
7C46B is a high torque 7 jewel movement specifically made as a Seiko 'diver's calibre'.
Operating range: between -10 ºC and +60 ºC. Accuracy: Less than 15 seconds per months when worn in temperature range between 5 ºC and 35 ºC. Or spot on when worn at the wrist!

Again, these are impressive figures: 70 degrees operating range and 30 degrees guaranteed accuracy band.

7C46 is a fully repairable mechanism.
The monocoque, a single piece case.
The heart of the Tuna is the single piece case, machined entirely from a solid titanium block. No case back here!
The quality of the case is simply superb, from finishes to tight tolerances. Indestructible, corrosion free. 
If you are into machining and manufacturing, you will be impressed: this is not a stamped-out mass produced case, but a one-at-a-time CNC high tech machined component of 'medical grade' quality.
Reassembled, and water pressure tested. Unfortunately my water pressure tester goes only up to 10 bar. Tuna easily withstands the ten times greater pressure of 100 bar!
Attention to detail: divers safety is important! On the back of the case, a scale of 25 to 35 can be found. And the famous 'dot': the punch mark carefully placed, indented by hand. Your Tuna needs a new battery in the third quarter of 2025! Such a personal touch...

Who else would mark a perfect, brand new titanium monocoque case - but Seiko. Simply saying: this is a tool watch, not a toy.
In conclusion

Tuna is much more than a serious watch. It is a high tech professional divers watch and a significant historical reference to Seiko's engineering and watchmaking. A watch entirely made in Japan, by the only company in the world that makes every single watch component in house, under one roof.

This piece needs no recommendation: if you are in or around the water, looking for a watch you'll never have to take off the wrist, a recognizable piece which will generate comments by those who know their stuff, then you can't pass the Tuna.

Boutique price: $3,750. 

As said before, my promise to you, my subscribers, is to offer you unbeatable deals on the most sought after and most iconic Seiko out there. I do believe that Tuna is worth every cent of the $3,750 retail price. 

Model Reference: S23631J Case size: 49.4mm over the bezel protector, 42mm measured over the bezel.