Thursday, February 14, 2019

The talk of the town

For over 100 years a gleeful, eager to please butler wearing a top hat has been synonymous with a fresh sparkling home.

In truth, the butler was a Lancashire gentleman with a passion for silverware.  With an abundance of local, soft Pennine water, and top quality, locally-milled cotton at his fingertips, he set to work to create ingenious ways to polish and clean the very finest of Victorian silver.  Of particular note was his inventive silver polishing cloth which contained a unique combination of silver polishing liquid and local cotton.

With much Victorian fanfare his silver cloth became "the talk of the town" and, so, the Town Talk Polish Company was born in 1895.  As Town Talk became more well-known a talented artist developed the iconic animated image of Mr Town Talk. Practical, reliable, ready to help at the drop of a hat, he continues to represent this fascinating company's values, as well as the highest quality cleaning products for the most beautiful of treasures.

An incredible 124 years later, the Town Talk silver polishing cloth is still considered to be one of the finest available in the world today.

We are proud to be official stockists of not less than 14 Town Talk products and, quite frankly, dealing with the British has proven to be a lot more exciting than dealing with the Swiss.

If you ever need any polishing cloths for watches, silver, gold, glass, spectacles, smartphones or even Ipads, pop into our shop or go online and order on our store at

Hint:  Any of our Town Talk items would make the perfect gift.                       

Fake Bergeon tools

Oscar Wilde famously said that 'imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.' I disagree: commercial imitation is simply a crime.

The other day I compared Bergeon tools with Patek watches.  Indeed there are countless similarities between the two brands. And one of them is that both are commonly faked.

So here is the question: how can you tell if a tool is genuine Bergeon or a cheap replica? As it is the case with watches - you don't buy a watch, you buy a seller.  The dead giveaways are : low price, lack of original packaging material, missing reference or serial numbers, poor quality and so on.
While from a constructional side a fake tool may look similar to genuine, it will always lack the performance of a quality, well-made, genuine tool.

What amazes me the most is the blatant 'co-branding' where fakers will stamp a tool with both 'Bergeon' and their own brand name. This is a typical Chinese practice - a sign of 'technological patriotism' with clear message: look at us, we can make a tool as good as Swiss, at a fraction of the price, and we don't give a damn about international copyright laws.

While I am an open-minded person, keen to try and review any tool by any maker, regardless of the country of origin,  double-branding seriously puts me off.

And just to make this clear: The Swiss often play the same game: happily re-branding Chinese watch parts, and even some tools, as being made in Switzerland.

Pictured on top: a cheap and nasty movement holder replica; Tianjiu fake Bergeon, and a genuine Bergeon holder. Tianjiu is taking the blatant fakery to the 'next level' by ripping off Bergeon's trademark packaging, colours, description in four languages, reference numbers down to product specifications. (Photo courtesy of eBay).

ORIGINAL Swiss Bergeon Reversible Watch Movement Holder

The Bergeon reversible watch movement holder comes in two sizes: 3 3/4-11mm (4039) and 8 3/4-19mm (4040). Another essential aid, unchanged in design for over 100 years and made to last forever.

In stock

Price: $45

Note: if you are looking for a specific Bergeon tool than we are happy to take your order. Delivery time around 6 weeks .

Our utmost goal is to expand our stock of Swiss watchmakers’ tools to the point where you will be able to get almost everything over the counter, straight away, with no delay.  However, due to the nature of trade and demand for certain tools and products, this is going to be an ongoing project for many years to come.

Until then, every order - regardless of size - matters and remains greatly appreciated.

Here is the link to the online Bergeon catalog:

More Bergeon goodies in stock

Established in 1791, Bergeon Switzerland is the world’s leading supplier of Watchmakers’ tools. If you were to visit their La Chaux-de-Fonds showroom, you would find 3,000 tools on display. But make no mistake - Bergeon is not about the volume - it's all about quality, within an industry used to talking in microns.

How many times have you found yourself in a situation where you wanted to present your business partner with an amazingly sophisticated present – yet you simply could not find one on short notice?

And, what do you give to someone who has it all? Are you still trying to impress them with a bottle of wine or a ticket to a cricket game?

1.  Bergeon set of 10 Screwdrivers

The Bergeon professional watchmaker's screwdriver set is arguably the best
screwdriver set in the world. A set of 10 screwdrivers, boxed in a black Swiss pine case, unmistakeably and clearly labelled "SWISS MADE" will speak volumes about YOUR sophistication. Yes, this is the kind of tool even professional watchmakers can only dream about.

Price: $270

2. Bergeon set of 5 screwdrivers

This is a perfect present for your smart grandson, nephew, or niece. Nerdy kids deserve nerdy presents. This one will last forever. A fantastic set for a novice watchmaker or hobbyist.

Price: $79

3.  Bergeon 30080-07 1.5mm Screwdriver

There is nothing more annoying than a loose screw on a spectacle hinge!  The Bergeon 30080-07 1.6mm screwdriver is the perfect tool for tightening such screws. A single screwdriver for just $18. This is less than what an optometrist would charge you for a replacement screw.  We have five different individual packed screwdrivers in stock, as well as spare blades for all.

Price: $18 (pictured)

4.  Bergeon Screwdriver Blade Sharpener

Nothing will crash your spirit like a chipped or twisted blade on a new Bergeon screwdriver. But worry not! Screwdriver blades can be easily re-shaped and sharpened with the appropriate tool. Bergeon 2461 is an
absolute MUST. I'll talk about it tomorrow, but if you are placing an order for any screwdrivers and wish to learn how to sharpen them like a pro – then you need this tool. Don't be fooled with cheap Chinese and Indian fake
Bergeon replicas commonly found on eBay!

Our price is $48 for a genuine Bergeon.

If you buy any screwdriver set AND 2461, we will throw in a perspex board (free of charge). More about that later.

There are tools - and then there are tools

Not all watchmakers’ tools are made the same. A professional tradesman is primarily looking for quality and longevity, as well as serviceability of a tool. Meaning that if you were to invest in a screwdriver, you would not only expect it to last for decades, but you expect that a toolmaker would provide spare blades, invest in research and development of a better tool while continuing to expand the range.

And there is another kind of tools known within the trade as 'boutique tools'.  Those watchmaking tools are simply designed to impress. A Patek or Lange or Cartier technician is not going to use a $10 spring bar tool on a $100,000 watch - but a tool designed to match the quality of the watch itself.

So when it comes to high-end boutique tools,  the undisputed king of bling is tools made by Bergeon.

Bergeon is a Swiss watchmakers’ toolmaker, established in 1791.  Over 228 years of undisrupted history and tradition, and for all those years a synonym for both quality and reputation. A kind of Patek of Swiss toolmaking.

And like Patek, Bergeon sets its own standards and rules.

Yesterday, we got our first delivery of Bergeon tools. Two large boxes filled with screwdrivers, movement holders, tweezers, pliers, two staking sets - and much more. Yes, we are now an official Bergeon AD!

Amongst the tools we now carry in stock are 3 very specific "Boutique Tools" from their prestige "Smile" range: two spring bar double-ended removal tools and one pin pusher. The kind of tools to match your half a million dollar watch; tools designed to be photographed next to any perpetual calendar or tourbillon.

Price? Well - who cares!

If you wonder which spatula you should buy then my advice is - buy both. The difference between the two tools is in the small detail: one spatula is slightly wider than the other and also slightly curved. Both tools are primarily designed for the removal of spring bars on leather straps.

The pin pusher has a 0.80mm diameter tip and is suitable for spring bars fitted on 'pin hole' cases. 
Pin extractor

Spring bar tools

***Bergeon Rodico - $9

My grandfather has been using it for over 70 years, my father for well over 60, and I am using it daily, and there’s not the slightest doubt that my son and my apprentices will use Bergeon Rodico for the rest of their lives.  Unchanged formula.  Unchanged properties.  Simply the best cleaning product designed for watchmakers on the market.

Rodico is a special watchmaker's cleaning product.  It is used for cleaning, balance pivots, train wheel pivots, removing finger prints and stain from plates, bridges, dials, hands; removing excess oil from watch jewels and taking out broken pivots from the jewels.

Equally useful for professionals and watch enthusiasts, and especially those who are taking the case back off their watches or doing minor repairs.

A $9 bar of Rodico will last you for years.  Actually when I think of it, Rodico is so superior that there has never been an attempt by another maker to substitute it.  It’s impossible.

Of course, Bergeon products come in their own Bergeon packaging boxes and, yes, there are watch enthusiasts who simply collect Bergeon as they would collect Rodico watches.  The box itself and all Bergeon packaging material is equally as important as the product itself.

Polywatch - our short tutorial on polishing plexi/hesalite glasses created a lot of interest, as expected.  However, for those of you who ordered only one a cloth or only the polish you need both to achieve my result.  The cloth itself will not remove scratches.  
Order Microfibre Watch Cleaning Cloth

Order Polywatch

If you missed our tutorial on how to perfectly polish plexi glass in under 3 minutes visit our blog:

Tuesday, February 12, 2019

DIY - How to perfectly polish plexi glass in under 3 minutes

You've asked for it, and here it is: THE MAGIC 

How to polish plexi/hesalite/plastic glass LIKE A PRO in less than 3 minutes.

I absolutely *HATE* snake oil merchants. And, as you know, the majority of products that claim miraculous results are just lame stuff, designed to be sold to na├»ve and gullible buyers. Clearly, if I am to endorse a product then (1)  it has to work, (2) it has to work every time and for everyone, (3) it has to be super affordable and, above all, a brilliantly simple solution.

The 'MAGIC' does all 3 and you'll be impressed.


Since I didn't have any scratched plexi glass watches in stock, I've scratched my own Omega Moonwatch with 20 microns sandpaper so badly that the apprentices went "wow".

Bloody hell. Of course, you can skip this step - since your plexi glass is probably already showing some scuff marks you want to get rid of.     



Scratch removal tools:

- $7 MIRACLE Microfibre watch cloth from Town Talk
- $7 PolyWATCH polish (Germany)

Cut the cloth in two pieces.



Apply a small amount of Polywatch paste to both the cloth and plexi glass.



Polish! Rub in both a circular and linear motion the entire surface of the crystal, especially vigorously over the scratched/scuffed areas.

It should take less than a minute to remove 95% of all imperfections. Re-apply the polishing paste a couple more times and continue to polish.



Use the second half of the cloth (clean piece) and polish the plexi glass for 1 more minute WITHOUT paste. This is your final rub, as you are aiming to bring the surface to a mirror finish, cleaning all the residue.


The end result is so impressive that you will remain speechless! A pure mirror finish!



Of course, you will be left with so much polishing paste that you can repeat the process every few months, keeping your plexi spotless. It goes without saying that polishing your plexi glass before putting your watch up for sale could make the difference of hundreds of dollars.

Why does it work so powerfully? Simply, it is a combination of perfect German plastic polishing paste and top quality English microfibre cloth.

Just two tips: remove all residue with a clean cloth and don’t apply any polish to the pushers and winding crown. (If you accidentally do, wipe it with a warm water damped cloth, then dry well). 

THE MAGIC works on any plastic glass, regardless of the watch brand -  Omega Moonwatches, Omega Speedmaster Reduceds, TAG Heuer, Rolex plastic Subs/GMT Masters down to humble Swatch watches.

Polywatch and a full range of English Town Talk cloths are available both at our online shop and over the counter in our store.

To place your order go to:

Tuesday, February 5, 2019

Manufactured in Australia

The first H batch of 25 watches is here.

I have been writing this announcement in my head for the past 12 months - from the moment our small team first realised that one day we will be able to machine and manufacture crucial watch components in Australia, in our own humble workshop. Yet today, after assembling H00/25, the very first watch proudly signed "Manufactured in Australia" I simply feel tired, struggling to even pull myself together to make the announcement. There is no adrenaline, no euphoria, no celebration; no self-congratulation.

As they say: the reward is not the destination but the journey itself.  And while we have reached an important milestone, our journey has really just begun.

Make no mistake: while claiming the right to this prestigious title, we recognise that there are probably dozens or more well-equipped machining workshops in Australia which could have the capabilities of making a wrist watch. Cochlear, Resmed, Rhode, ANCA, scientists from CSIRO - they could all have done it. But they didn't think a watch project was worth the trouble, the investment in time and money. And - above all - unlike us, they didn't have a point to make or a race to run.

Is every component in H made in Australia? Of course not. That was simply not our goal. The main objective of the project was to answer just three questions: What does it take to understand, clone and then genetically modify the watch 'DNA'? Could that be done in total insulation, on a remote island, with limited watchmaking expertise and no watchmaking tradition? And would such a watch be affordable to Australian watch enthusiasts?  The answer to the first two crucial questions is ticking quietly on my workbench. The third question will be answered in coming weeks.

In essence, the H is all about engineering, manufacturing and integration. We proved that our in-house design main plates and bridges, winding stems to dial fasteners, can be perfectly 'synchronised' with Swiss-made components - creating a complex, robust, reliable and accurate timepiece. And I am not just throwing in that adjective 'perfectly' lightly, casually and disrespectfully: on the contrary; reaching sub-micron precision is only something a fellow engineer would understand and appreciate.

To sum it up: H is an engineer's watch, designed for an engineer looking for a timepiece with a unique story and origin.

I bow down to Josh who, in just 12 months, mastered both Kern and R04 and who spent countless nights designing and machining tools, fixtures and finally our parts; and to Andrew, who was a reliable team member responsible for design, drawings and measuring while mastering Makino EDM. Without the two of them I would have no role to play.

And the price is ...?

Impossible to calculate. We tried to base it on investment costs, on the cost of tooling and material, on the cost of labour ranging from an engineer’s hourly rate down to humble workshop labourer's minimum wages - and any price we came up with simply didn't made sense. For the lack of better judgement, my guess is that $5,000 + GST for a priceless watch may not be an accurate reflection of our commitment to you - but at least fair and reasonable, taking into account that our time is yet to come.

Where do we go from here?

Right now, the first H number 00 is ready for your inspection. All components – including dials and hands – are in stock, and we are awaiting gold plating on about half of the bridges. The gold plating is still our biggest nightmare, but the decision has been made to accept whatever result we can get right now, complete the assembly, and make the watch available to the public. We are also developing our own ‘in house’ gold-plating capabilities which will allow us to re-plate (if needed) all components when the watch is due for its first service.

Yes, we are taking your orders now. However, there is no time for fake modesty: to call yourself a proud owner of the first ever ‘Manufactured in Australia’ wristwatch is a privilege. We are looking for partners who appreciate our efforts, supporters who clearly understand the importance of this project, and ambassadors who are proud to be associated with us. If this is you, you are welcome to contact us promptly to secure your watch. Priority will be given to existing orders, and we are also opening the waitlist for the next batch of 25 pieces to be available in July/August.

The H manufactured in Australia mechanism is fitted in Titanium 45mm case with Australian hand-made leather strap.  The photos provided are just quick shots taken with mobile phone camera, with no intention to impress you.  The only way to appreciate the workmanship will be once you inspect the watch in person.  You are welcome to make an appointment.   


Well, I told you so

Recently we got an email from Jim who had just received his three loupes in the mail.  To say that he was happy is an understatement.

He wrote, "My three loupes arrived today. I instantly checked them out and I'm very impressed with the quality.  When I compared them to my Chinese/Indian 4X and 10X the difference was amazing.  Items viewed through all three are clearer (in fact, crystal clear), colours seem to be more vivid, and the field of view is discernibly brighter.  There's also much less vignetting at the periphery compared to the cheapo ones.  Another happy customer.

We are really grateful for Jim's feedback but this is hardly a surprise.  I have been using an ASCO loupe for years, as well as all the apprentices, and the reason why we sell them is because we are happy customers too!  Actually our plan is to expand the range with new models to arrive soon.

*** Professional watchmaker's loupes

And not just for watch enthusiasts: a perfect gift for a stamp or coin collector - or anyone interested in fine detail.

It's not too late to get 1, 2 or 3 loupes for yourself or a friend. 
$29 each plus delivery.  (If you buy 3 loupes delivery is free!) 

Visit our online store to place your order

Daily prayer

Those of you who have been subscribers to our newsletter for years certainly know who I am and what I stand for.  However, if you are still in doubt then let me tell you this.  When I open my eyes in the morning, I don’t pray, “Lord, today allow me to be a shining example of humbleness and modesty.” That’s not me.  Rather, I pray, “Lord, today I need your strength to keep fighting corrupt corporations and big brands so that the smallest watch brand in the world may thrive and prosper for generations to come".  And for that to happen God and I need to work together.  My part in that partnership is to find the absolutely best product for loyal rebelde supporters.

The rebelde carbon fibre Made in Germany iridium nib fountain pen is our flagship writing instrument.  The events that led to getting our name on it can only be described as a miracle - but that is a story for another day.  Let me just say that I am extremely proud of our fountain pen, and I have no doubt that you will be truly impressed as well.

In stock.  $250 with free delivery or collect in person.

Fine nib.  Both catridge and bladder included.

The buckles have landed

Add caption

About six weeks ago, we were happy to report that we were expecting delivery of our stainless steel buckles, machined out of surgical steel.   Good news!  The buckles arrived last week and we have already shipped free samples to the first 20 subscribers who put their hands up last year.  Of course, due to the overwhelming response we could not send a free buckle to all.

However, if you would like to order one, the price is $35.

The buckle is 18mm wide and comes with a slender pin – which means it’s perfect for fine, thin, leather straps like those on Omega and IWC watches.  The photo above shoes the straps for our upcoming Mark 1 automatic watch (both kangaroo leather and Italian cowhide).  The kangaroo leather straps are made by James B. Young in the Northern Territory.  As our buckles can be shipped in a flat envelope we will throw in free delivery on buckle orders.

PS:  Once again, the $35 is the for buckle only and not for the buckle and strap.             


Happy Collecting,


Anti-reflective coating

***Anti-reflective coating (AR)

A number of subscribers were curious to find out more about 'reflectiveness' of watch crystals and anti-reflective coating solutions.  Before we go any further: I am not an expert in the field of optics. Like yourself, I am just trying to figure out what may work and what could be improved.  In other words, in the same boat as any other watch brand and watch enthusiast.

The core of the problem lies in the geometry of modern sapphire watch crystals: flat glasses are less reflective than domed ones, and double domed are double the trouble.

Traditionally, in the early days of wristwatches, watch glasses were just that - made of polished glass.  Its main and only function was to protect the dial and fragile hands - and clarity, low distortion and reflectiveness were secondary properties.  Also the glasses were much thinner and watches were of smaller diameter.  But in just a decade or so later a novelty kicked in: covers which were made of natural rubber - known in the trade as kautschuk. A watchmaker would simply buy 'cured' see-through sheets and cut and mold his own covers.  By the 1940’s, a synthetic polymer methyl methacrylate (better known under the commercial name plexi glass)  kicked into fashion: it was cheap to produce.  It was almost unbreakable, it never shattered, and was incredibly glare-free.  However, one incredible property of plexi glass was it was a perfect self-sealant to stainless steel cases, and it was thanks to humble plexi glass that waterproof watches were really possible.  An example of 1950’s plexi glass development – probably the two best known are Rolex Submariner 5513 and Omega Speedmaster (yes, hesalite is just a fancy word for plastic).

Plastic only had one negative property which is it is very easy to scratch.  By the early 1970's plastic covers were, once again, out of fashion, being rapidly replaced by modern domed and double dome mineral crystals and later sapphire crystals - a modern attempt to offer customers that elusive 'scratch resistance' experience.

So we got back to where we started: having to, once again, deal with distortion, glare and reflection.

There is no such thing as 'spray on' anti-reflective coating. The applying process itself takes a few hours, as sapphire passes through a number of cleaning/coating/curing steps.

The photo on the top shows non-coated crystal on the left and AR coated on the right, both subjected to the same light source. The difference is day and night! The trick is to have just the right amount of coating which will not 'tint' the dial (turning the black to purple or blue) while having the coating layer of sufficient thickness which will 'stick' to perfectly polished crystal for as long as possible.

Based on my experience, Breitling and IWC are trying hard to solve this problem, while Omega has reached a stage where AR coating is as close to perfect as we can expect with available technology. The new Seamaster crystals look just stunning, offering a glare-free view of dial and hands.

In our case, finding the best AR solution means sending our crystals to a few different coating specialists, then comparing the results. Yet another R&D project for the smallest watch brand in the world. Costs? USD$175 per batch of 100 - meaning $175 to coat just one - or 100 crystals.

Exciting project for sure. Will keep you informed.

In case you missed our earlier announcement for Mark 1 orders 40mm automatic), click on the link below. And in case you have put your name down on the waiting list but have not received your confirmation email and your assigned number - please contact us again. 

Mark 1 - Taking Orders Now

More watchmakers' loupes

***Fantastic news!  

We have just got a new delivery of the now famous ASCO loupes with four additional models to expand our range.
Let’s start with aluminium

What can I say?  An absolute gem.  Anodised aluminium, azure blue body, with colour-coded rim for magnification.  Like the black H1 type, ASCO aluminium comes in seven different magnifications.  The aluminium body means an even more robust loupe for both bench and workshop environments but the reason I really like this loupe is for the fact that “Swiss made” and ASCO brand is prominently visible, This is the kind of loupe you would want to take with you to any Swiss watch brand dealership.  They will be impressed.

The second bit which is equally more important and works in your favour: the aluminium loupe is heavier than the standard plastic loupe, so you are not expected to hold it over your eye like a watchmaker.  It’s designed to be held by hand close to your eye.  Not only will you look like a professional but you will handle it like a professional.

Price:  $48 only

Very limited stock.  You will find more on our shop online.     
     ***Loupe 1806     
      This is a 30mm loupe, much larger than the standard watchmaker’s loupe, again designed to be held by hand.  It provides for a larger field of vision and it’s a perfect loupe for a stamp collector, numismatics or really any other purpose than watchmaking.

1806 comes in four different magnifications. Made in Germany.

Price: $39
Engravers' loupe

This is a massive 40mm loupe, Made in Germany. Large 'flat'field, low distortion, two magnifications (x4 and x5)  Price: $39

***Finally, we now have in the range an amazing ASCO20 aplanatic blue tinted lens loupe

This aplanatic loupe literally turns your eye and brain into a microscope with the focal distance of just 5mm.  The loupe is held almost next to the object and will allow you to see even the finest detail possible with the naked eye.

A priceless instrument for inspecting surfaces like guilloche, perlage or Geneve stripes or inclusions in diamonds and precious stones.  The loupe simply shines when used in well-lit and noise-free environments.  Remember, it is your brain that does the image processing.  Aplanatic simply means no distortion to shape or colour and the ASCO 20 aplanatic is one of the best watchmaker’s loupes on the market.

Price: $240

All the loupes are now available on our online shop so feel free to check them out.
***How To Place Your Order:

To put it simply, in any way you wish. 
  1. Go to our online shop
  2. Create your account
  3. Select the items you wish to order
  4. Add them to your cart
  5. Add a bracelet or two to your order! (see accessories section)
  6. Checkout
You will receive your order details as well as our bank account details in your email.  Once the payment has been made we will ship the loupes to you.

If you would like to pay by credit card still follow all the steps 1-5 and then call to place your order over the phone or provide us with your credit card details via email.

If you would like to pay in store come see us Monday to Friday between the hours of 11am-4.30pm.  However, to avoid disappointment it is recommended that you follow steps 1-6 so that we can track your order and ensure that we have the stock available.

Please be patient with us while we process orders and work through any glitches along the way :).           

Happy Collecting,

Professional Loupes in Stock

*** Good news! Professional watchmaker's LOUPES for just $29 each!
 Sorry for the selfie - but I didn't want you to miss this important announcement.

A loupe is a small magnifying glass used by jewellers and watchmakers. Finally the first delivery of the famous ASCO professional watchmakers loupes has arrived.

ASCO is a Swiss tool supplier and tool maker established in 1833 and a synonym for quality yet very affordable loupes. As a third generation watchmaker I have been using my ASCO loupe for years- there are  3 of them on my bench at any given time: one for general work, one for close inspection, while the third loupe used exclusively for dials and hand assembly.

My intention is simple: to stock ASCO loupes and offer them to hobbyists, professionals, watch enthusiasts and watch collectors. Next time you visit our workshop, ask me to show you full range of seven ASCO loupes so you can select one which fits you the best.Price:  only $29 per loupe
which is a few dollars less than buying one from any other online watch tools stockist. Not to mention convenience of immediate pickup.

What a heck - I'll even teach you how to wear one while you here!

It goes without saying that a quality Swiss made loupe will last you for ever. A loupe is fantastic present for a fellow watch enthusiast or a partner, a priceless gift which will be greatly appreciated. A true eye-opener allowing you to appreciate the finest detail of your watch dial, hands, crystal and watch mechanism. A perfect, simple, handy inspection instrument.

If you are unable to select and collect your loupe in person, then I suggest to order size "3" or "3 and a half" which is always a safe choice. If you place an order for 3 loupes or more, I will throw in FREE DELIVERY Australia wide.

TIP: Loupe "1" has the highest magnification, "4" the lowest.
Watchmakers wear only 1 loupe at time, I wore two - just for fun.  

***How To Place Your Order:

To put it simply, in any way you wish. 
  1. Go to our online shop
  2. Create your account
  3. Select the items you wish to order
  4. Add them to your cart
  5. Add a bracelet or two to your order! (see accessories section)
  6. Checkout
You will receive your order details as well as our bank account details in your email.  Once the payment has been made we will ship the loupes to you.

If you would like to pay by credit card still follow all the steps 1-5 and then call to place your order over the phone or provide us with your credit card details via email.

If you would like to pay in store come see us Monday to Friday between the hours of 11am-4.30pm.  However, to avoid disappointment it is recommended that you follow steps 1-6 so that we can track your order and ensure that we have the stock available.

Please be patient with us while we process orders and work through any glitches along the way :).                         

Thursday, January 31, 2019

The flying samurai

Not long after the first batch of manual wind rebelde with Swiss movements was assembled, I started toying with the idea of designing a 40mm stainless steel chronograph.  Nothing fancy.  The only requirement was that it would retail for between $2,000 and $2,500.

The obvious choice was a Valjoux 7750 movement, but at about that time Seiko released a new NE88 column wheel chronograph which simply kicked 7750’s bum.  I quickly placed an order for 100 movements but, by the time they arrived, I was already heavily involved in the design of rebelde Titanium, and for the past three years the Japanese Seiko movements were sitting in a safe deposit box.

Of course, our religion is Swiss.  And not just ours; the power of Swiss advertising, the lure of swissness and the arrogance of “no stock for you” makes us wanting that swissness even more.  In other words, we are not victims, we are active participants, and happy cult members.

Last week “with nothing better to do” – encouraged by apprentices’ curiosity – the batch of dormant NE88s was once again the topic of conversation. 
“What are we going to do with them? And when?
Probably nothing”, was my reply.  "If anything, ever, we will do a chronograph which will be a tribute to Japanese horology, yet in the style of 1960’s Swiss chronographs".

To my surprise, Michael took this passing comment seriously enough to start preparing some sketches.

So here it is, my subscribers, The Flying Samurai.           

Are we going to make one?  Of course not.  A batch of 100 watches is simply not economically viable, and with so many projects already competing with one another for our time, the Flying Samurai is grounded.


Wednesday, January 23, 2019

Mark 1 - Taking Orders Now

*** Mark 1: Taking Orders Now!

After almost 2 years in development, we can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.  Not quite yet there, but not too far either.

Yes, I am now ready to take your order - so feel free to put your name down.

Before we go any further: a brief introduction to the project:

MK1 is a 40mm case steel watch on a leather strap. The mechanism is Swiss-made automatic with a central sweep hand and date function. The watch is fully water resistant to 10atm.

The mechanism is a high grade, high accuracy chronometer specs movement with signed, custom made rotor with Geneva stripes.  It is as good as any high grade Swiss movement commonly found in IWC Mark 16/17/18. Accurate, reliable and - most importantly - repairable.

The case is 3 finish 316L steel with transparent screw lock case back and screw lock crown in the style of 1950- 60's wristwatches, but more robust and with a modern twist. Case lugs spacing is 19mm, which is a hallmark of our original, in-house design.

The dial and hands colour scheme closely follows our traditional 'rebelde style': black matte background, cream luminous markers and hands, with a hint of red. Those of you who are following us may remember that we invited suggestions for the dial design. Over 30 proposals were submitted - and we selected two winning designs.  However, due to a number of reasons both proposals proved too much of a challenge for two dial makers. My resources and patience was stretched so thin that after 6 months of pain and stress the decision was made to go back to a simple but proven design. This is in no way to show any disrespect to any of you who kindly tried to help - rather a practical cut which helped get the project back on track.

Leather Strap Choice

We are working on a selection of leather straps (Italian leather, American horween leather, as well as locally made kangaroo and crocodile straps).  There will be no shortage of a suitable strap for Mark1. 

Timeline: all components except the dial and hands are now in stock. The delivery of dials is expected in April, allowing me to commence assembly.  Assuming no major hiccups, the first MK1 should be ready for delivery on June 1.

Fine tuning: sapphire crystal! I am not a big fan of anti-reflective coating. AR is a two-edged sword: while it does reduce reflection on the dial surfaces, it introduces a bluish tint. Also, when applied externally, it is relatively easy to scratch. IWC, Omega, Breitling as well as all other high grade watchmakers face the same challenges and no-one has come up with a perfect solution. Right now, I am talking to an AR coating specialist capable of coating crystals 'from underneath '.  Again, this could turn out to be a very minor improvement to minor glaring but any improvement would be beneficial.  The good news is that a new crystal installation should not slow down the overall assembly.

Finally, a clarification:

Mark 1 is not an Australian MADE watch project which is a different chapter altogether. But like with all other rebelde watches, MK1 components are manufactured overseas, as per our design. We deal with 11 part manufacturers who make components from our own design drawings, and MK1 will be completely assembled in our Castlereagh St workshop. Accordingly, the dial is proudly signed "Assembled in Australia" .

The case back is also signed "67 Castlereagh St" - a proud statement of the place your watch was born and took its first breath.  Again, each MK1 will be completely assembled by myself, leaving only minor tasks to assistants (strap and buckle installation, water resistance testing, timekeeping checking, packaging, etc).

First production run: 199 pieces, W1-W200.

Price $2,800

To place your order simply email

To avoid any unnecessary pressure: no deposit is required - a simple email is sufficient to secure your place in line. Once your watch is assembled you will be invoiced for the full amount.  During the following weeks after assembly, the watch will undergo final timekeeping checks and adjustments and then it will be ready for shipping. 

Current rebelde owners will have the chance to pick their serial numbers, whenever possible.

The order of delivery: first orders first.

Of course, you are welcome to visit us and try one of two MK1s which are fully assembled and functional.  Please call for an appointment on (02) 9232-0500.

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