Do
you know that starting a watch repair business in Australia requires no
formal education, certification, or licensing, or even experience? You
can call yourself a watchmaker, print a bunch of business cards, and
start a business literally today. Yes, you can call yourself even a
Master Watchmaker! And if you find repairing watches a bit boring, then
you may skip that altogether and start your own brand—and show Rolex how
it’s done.
I am not making this up. In Australia, we have a number of watchmakers
who lack both skills and qualifications, yet they are visibly present,
advertising themselves for years as ‘independent makers.’.
About ten years ago, when the Rebelde project took off, one of the
driving forces behind the project was a desire to establish the NH brand
in a way that it could face fierce competition. I always thought, well,
if I can start a watch brand, then surely there would be other
watchmakers who can do the same. I was expecting plenty of competition
from within the industry but also from individuals who are mechanically
minded, have sufficient funds to invest, and are willing to learn the
trade. It turned out that ten years later, we are the only people
capable of making watch components and complete watches in Australia.
The purpose of this short article is to provide you with facts.
To empower you, so you can differentiate and assess horological
‘manufacturing’ claims yourself. After all, as an Australian watch
collector and enthusiast, you should be armed with the facts.
Here is a short list of some of the NH watchmaking capabilities developed in recent years.
1. Design, reverse engineering, and engineering of complex, multi-component devices
Multiple workstations. We use the same CAD software as used in the Patek factory.
2. Milling
Ability to manufacture various parts using five-axis CNC mills. We use
the same CNC machines that make key watch components for Lange, Rolex,
and IWC.
3. Turning
We are capable of making cylindrical parts by CNC turning, ranging in
size from a fraction of a millimetre to the size of a watch crown.
Again, we use the same automatic lathe as Swiss watch manufacturers.
4. Wire EDM
The cutting-edge technology! Wire EDM allows us to make not just some of
the most complex parts that could not be made manually, but also to
prototype various one-off parts.
5. Gear hobbing
The ability to manufacture watch gears was traditionally the most
challenging aspect of watchmaking. Even today, only a selected few can
claim true in-house gear hobbing fame. Our CNC gear hobbing machine was
built by the Swiss leader in the field of gear making, the very same
model used by top Swiss brands like Patek, Vacheron, and Rolex.
6. Thermic treatment of machined parts
Extremely challenging! We are mastering it slowly but steadily.
7. Tool and fixture making
This is a completely separate field of engineering and manufacturing
than the watchmaking itself. Yes, we make our own tools and holders.
8. Grinding
Precision grinding is an art form. While we use CNC grinders, the
grinding process is still a combination of computer and manual skills.
9. Case manufacturing
With the NH55 project, we have completely immersed ourselves in the
manufacturing of complex watch cases. We are capable of making cases in
stainless steel, titanium, composite resins, and even ceramic.
10. Micro-particle blasting and polishing
Both internal and external watch components are finished using various applications. We make things beautiful.
11. Guilloche
A horological art form where precision and intricacy take the enjoyment
of watchmaking to a completely new level. Unlike Swiss watch dial
manufacturers, who use soft metals to create guilloche patterns, our
specialty is guilloche in titanium and Timascus. We are extremely proud
of our ability to manufacture dials and hands in-house.
12. Anodizing
The ability to turn a dull alloy into a fireworks of colour is what
makes NH different from most other watchmakers. Anodizing is tricky! It
takes lots of skills and patience to master it.
13. Dial printing
Yes, completely in-house! We print our dials using the same printing machine used by Omega! Down to exact Swiss paint…
14. Measuring
Over the years we have heavily invested in cutting-edge, high-precision measuring equipment. Our ability to measure manufactured components in the submicron range provides us with an unparalleled ability to make components in the submicron range. Without precise measuring, there will be no precision manufacturing.
During this year, we had the pleasure to
share with you a number of exciting projects of our involvement as a key
manufacturer in medical, space, electronics, and scientific
projects—for local and international customers and universities. It is
important to highlight the obvious: that our manufacturing capability is
first and foremost a result of our ability to manufacture watch
components and complete watches in Australia.
Again, the purpose of this short article is not to brag about what we
do. We still see ourselves merely as students of horology on a journey
that will take a lifetime—or two—to master.
What an exciting journey it is! The Australian-made watch is here—and if
you wish to join us, we are looking forward to serving you in years to
come.
Happy Watchmaking and Happy New Year,
NH & the team
