BNIB: almost a keeper

Hi Nick,

I have signed up for your email updates and interesting articles over the last 3-4 months and wanted to pass on how much I thoroughly enjoy these. I have always had a keen interest in fine watches as well as the history behind fine time pieces.

Part of the reason of me sending an email was to ask about buying fine watches online. I did  research some of your articles talking about buying watches where the dealer won't divulge serial numbers and any history of the watch.

 

My brother lives in the States and is interested in purchasing a Panerai watch over there. There is one online as new with boxes and papers with a private dealer. My question is, with new watches how do they turn up with sellers that are not authorized sellers of new watches like Panerai initially? Secondly how does the warranty apply in this situation? Are there things to check to make sure everything is above board?

Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,

Richard

 

 

Dear Richard,

 

Thank you for your email.

 

Before I answer your question, let me share with you a very personal story.

 

A couple of years ago we met a guy who became sort of a friend. Mike was the nicest guy ever, very helpful and extremely polite. He loved my wife's cherry strudels and in return he would fix my letters for grammar and spelling. A fair deal!

 

As an accountant by trade he worked hard and saved his pennies even harder. Happy man - except for one detail: for some strange reason, no matter how hard he tried, he was still a single man. He really wanted to find that very special soul but for one reason or another, it just did not happen.

 

One late evening, Mike knocked on our door, announced. Obviously he was in a hurry and he said he needed my help. So we let him in.

 

He quickly logged into my computer and said:

 

"Nick, here are 3 ladies I've narrowed down from a selection of 12,000. A doctor from Novosibrisk, an architect from Petropavlovsk and a painter from a small village in Ukraine. Which one should I marry?"

 

To say that all 3 looked extremely beautiful would be understatement. 

But that was not the Mike we knew, so I was curious to find out what made him pick those 3 particular ladies? And he told us: all three were exactly the same height, same age and same  weight. For Mike, those numbers were the most important search criteria. The only problem he had is which one to pick?

 

And this is why he needed my help.

 

Now, let's just pause the story here for a second. If you were in my shoes, you would probably do your best to convince Mike not to rush with his decision. You would argue that there is the  possibility of significant misinterpretation when deciding about a person purely on low quality .jpg fifteen minutes after midnight, and that height and weight have very little to do with heart and soul, and all that stuff. That's what any reasonable person and friend would say!

 

But not me.

 

Without a nanosecond of hesitation, without even the slightest bit of guilt or doubt, as certain as only a watchmaker could be, I pointed to the photo of the artist by the name of Yelena.

 

"She is the one, Mike. You can't go wrong with a painter." 

 

And so he did.

 

Yelena arrived in Sydney in what I would call a BNBIB condition - a brand new Barbie in a box, with original papers, certificates, inner and outer boxes, hang tags, original receipt, spotless, conservatively described as 10/10. She would suit both a novice enthusiast or a seasoned collector. She was painfully perfect, with that heavenly Slavic accent - all those shs, tchs, ljs, zszs, which makes the sweetest French girls sound like Darth Vader.

 

There was only one bit missing: she came with no instruction manual and Mike could not figure out how to get her ticking -  no matter how hard he tried.

 

So what is my point, you may ask?

 

Well, buying online could be tricky. There is no guarantee that you'll get what you want and there is even less guarantee that you'll like what you get.

 

For the same reason you cannot blame Yelena for being Yelena, you cannot blame a Panerai for being too large, too heavy, too expensive or even fake.

 

I hope this goes without saying, but when it comes to recommending an online product, I am completely useless.

 

As Roxette said, "...listen to YOUR heart - there is nothing else you can do"

 

Regards,

 

N.

 

PS. Mike is now happily married to an Aussie mum with 4 kids. He lost few dollars in trade, but he kept the receipt. My wife still makes the best cherry strudels in the world, and as before, I still need someone to fix my grammar. As what happened to Yelena, I can not disclose for legal reasons.

Time keeping

What a week! After receiving 127 requests to disclose the cherry strudel recipe and 16 requests to disclose Yelena's phone number (neither possible, sorry) finally a watch-related email from a fellow enthusiast:

"Can you explain in simple terms how the watch balance wheel is regulated to keep 'spot on time' ?"
-J.N.

Dear J.N.,

I am glad you've asked for a simple explanation because this will save us time :-) You've indirectly asked two questions and I'll try to respond accordingly.

But before we get into it, let me just say that I cannot stress enough the importance of this subject. Unfortunately I know of many watch retailers, dealers, collectors - and even watch repairers who handle high grade watches on a daily basis, yet most of them have only vague knowledge of time keeping adjustment.

Therefore if you care to immerse yourself in my brief reply, you will be miles ahead from them all!

Time keeping and regulation are fundamental to watchmaking and our ability to tell the time accurately. Let me just say that mechanical watches never keep 'spot on time' but neither do 'quartz' watches. Even atomic clocks are not perfect but they are getting better: In the 1950s they were able to keep time within 1 second per 2000 years, while today we got them 'adjusted' to 1 sec per 20 million years. Which is not really all that bad.

Back to mechanical watches. Instead of 'spot on time' may I propose we settle for the more practical term: 'reasonably accurate'. Let's say 2 seconds per day.

While 2 sec/day is way above any practical requirement (especially if you travel on Sydney buses) your watch will still be 1 minute off at the end of the month. But then again, this is at least twice better than official Swiss chronometer certifications.

Which makes the Swiss standard look pretty lame. Or does it?

Before we jump into any conclusions, let's put things into perspective.

The balance wheel assembly is the heart of the watch. It is directly responsible for time keeping.

In essence, the balance wheel is a mechanical oscillator - it is the heart of the watch. Or to put it simply, this is the device which makes ticks and tocks.

And those ticks and tocks are what the time is made of!

Take a look at the photo below.

One second consists of EXACTLY 4 ticks and 4 tocks (*for 28.800 bph movement).
No more, no less. Consequently, one hour is made of 28,800 ticks. Or 691,200 heart beats per day! That is almost seven hundred thousand beats!



Let's say that instead of 691,200 beats your watch heart ticks just 16 beats more (or less) per day That would be an error of 0.00002 % which is the equivalent of those 2 magic seconds we are chasing!

You don't have to be a mathematician to figure out that such a tight tolerance is nothing but a miracle - especially for a mechanical device.

Actually there is no other mechanical device - including precision laboratory instruments - which would or could keep such a level of accuracy 24 hours per day over a period of 5 years without any maintenance while submerged under water, or up in the air, exposed to a temperature range of 50 degrees Celsius or more. Not to mention game or two of golf, sledge hammer and occasional drop to tile floor!

Indeed, the mechanical watch heart is a MIRACLE of human engineering and it's ability to tick with such an amazing accuracy is a very unique property.

Now that we've learned how precious that little heart is, we can get into more detail about time keeping adjustment or regulation.

The heart (oscillator) consists of a number of components, but two are directly responsible for ticks and tocks are:

- spring (often called a hair spring) and
- balance wheel



If you like formulas, you'll love this one: it is a real beauty! Actually the
greatest thing about Newtonian physics is that everything makes perfect sense!
(Unlike with confusing quantum stuff which came later :-)



The above formula describes the relation between time keeping, the hair spring
and the balance wheel.

Why is it a beauty? Because this is exactly what we need to know! It tells us that period of oscillation T [ticks and tocks] is determined by the position of weight on a balance wheel [I, inertia] and the stiffness of the hair spring [k].

In other words, in order to make our watch tick faster or slower, we could make adjustments to either the hair spring, the balance wheel - or both!

Rolex (and some other makers like Patek or the new Omega Coaxial) have designed their tickers in such a fashion that adjustment to time keeping is made by the variation of inertia of the balance wheel.



With most calibres of Rolex watches, regulation is achieved by adjusting the position of
regulating weights. The tiny little weight (marked A) is set closer or further away from the balance wheel rim (B). The closer to the rim: more inertia, slower period of oscillation, and the watch goes slower. The weight is effectively a nut; one quarter of a turn of one weight (4 shown on photo) equals approximately 1 sec per day.

Other makers opted for variation of stiffness of hair spring as a means of time keeping adjustment. Here, the inertia is constant (no weight on wheel) but the hair spring is
either shortened (stiffness increased) or extended by sliding the regulator lever [B].



As one would expect, both designs have advantages and disadvantages, and yes, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Since by now I have most likely lost most of my subscribers, let me just wrap it up by clarifying a couple of Internet misconceptions.

The myth: watches with higher oscillator rates are better time keepers. Well this one has been busted big time. If you are to remember just one thing today, then remember this: never buy a watch just because of high beat rate!

A 36,000 bph watch is not necessarily a better time keeper than a watch ticking at 19,800 bph. The higher beat also comes with a few side effects: it requires a very special kind of lubricant for the pallets / escape wheel; more frequent overhaul and if movement is not serviced properly there would be more wear and tear.

This is the main reason why Rolex Daytonas produced with Zenith El Primero movements
(Pre - 2000. production) have 'modified' movements: the original Zenith bph was reduced to 28,000 and true to tradition, Rolex preferred free sprung balance wheel with variable inertia adjustment.

But the 36,000 bph has one fantastic property: it allow us not only to mechanically split the second to 10 beats (5 ticks+5 tocks) but to display the 1/10 of a second on the dial as well. And yes, the high beat oscillators are less sensitive to outside forces which are trying to throw the oscillator out of balance.

The common bph for mechanical wrist watches are 18,000 - 19,800 - 21,600 - 25,200 - 28,800 - 36,000 corresponding to 5 / 5.5/ 6 / 7 / 8 and 10 beat per second.

For those who like to think "outside the circle": you can actually chose ANY rate for your mechanical oscillator, as long as you have a wheel cutting machine to cut a wheel with 64.9754 tooth and don't mind "hour" hand displaying 3.483 hours per day :-)

Gustav Becker with a good provenance

Hi Nick,

My name is Troy D. and have been a subscriber to your mailing list for sometime and was wondering if
you would be able to help with the identification of a wall clock that has been in our family for some time now.
It is believed to be a Gustaff Becker made in 1907. It was brought to Australia by The Redemptorists and was for the Monastery in Mayfield,
Newcastle which was founded in 1885. When the monastery closed it was obtained my family.
The history of the clock is a bit vague but it is believed that it was either brought to Australia by the one of the fathers
or it was constructed by one of the craftsman constructing the St Alphonsus monastery in Mayfield.
It is believed that the clock has been maintained quite well and is in perfect working order.
If at all possible from the photos attached to this email could you shed some light as to its make and
approximate value for insurance purposes.
Your expert experience on this subject would be greatly appreciated on this matter by my family
and also any tips in keeping this beautiful timepiece in perfect condition.

Your Sincerely,
Troy J D

---

Dear Troy,

Thank you for your email.

While you have supplied a number of photos, you have unfortunately made my dating task almost impossible by not providing a crucial one: a photograph of the back plate which will show us the Gustav Becker logo.

In order to do so, you must take the movement with it's sitboard out of the case. The sit board itself is fastened to the case with a couple of wood screws. Remove those screws and pull the sitboard form its slot.

Now be careful not to detach the mechanism from the sit board itself! Otherwise you will alter the position of hammers in relation to its chiming rods!

(I assume you are capable of doing this as per instruction, if not, it is better to leave it to a clockmaker.)

If your clock is indeed manufactured by Gustav Becker then you should be able to find a company stamp / logo on the bottom of the brass back plate.

This is what you are looking for:

As you can see, GB cloaks were manufactured both in Germany and Czecho-Slovakia (Bohmen or Bohemia) .

The clock case itself is clearly dating from the early 1900s as per your suggestion, and so is the dial. However the dial style and shape of hands remained popular until 1960s.

The clock itself is of fairly common construction for the era. It was built to tel the time, not to impress! It is a spring driven 8-day movement with 3 trains: time, hour strike and quarter chime
on 4 gongs. The fifth gong is for the hour strike only. On your photo, you can see the lever behind the dial, above the 2 o'clock position. This lever allows the owner to "turn off" the chime, strike or both.

There are a couple of important factors which must be taken in consideration when determining value for insurance purpose.

First, it is the value of the clock as a timepiece. Secondly, it's sentimental and historical value.

While your clock comes form a good home it would be difficult to convince any insurer that it possesses any significant value purely on it's provenance. Therefore the replacement value must be established based upon historical sales data for a similar clock made by Gustav Becker. The overall condition, especially of the dial and case, repair history, etc. would be considered as well.

In general, Gustav Becker clocks are regarded as mid-range quality German clocks. From the late 1850s to 1935 GB produced hundreds and thousands of clocks - maybe even well over a million! The company was bought by Junghans in 1935. With so many clocks produced - and so many still in good working order - GB clocks have very modest collectors value, even for examples in very good to excellent condition.

The possibility that the clock was made in Australia is extremely unlikely. While the clock cabinet (case) could have been made locally, there is no evidence in your
photos that suggest so. Case construction, ornamentation, veneer and overall finish looks consistent with mass-produced German examples.

Based on the above, a figure of around $1200 - $1500 would be a fair and reasonable insurance valuation amount.

Regarding maintenance: let's leave this for the next newsletter!

NOTE: While I am happy to provide my opinion on any timepiece based on photos and description - if time premits - such opinion is NOT legally binding in any financial or legal matter.
Proper and adequate Insurance Valuation is only possible upon physical examination of a watch / clock in question. Valuation service is available at nominal charge.

To regulate or to overhaul

Dear Nick,

Please do not take offense to my e mail, I am just seeking clarification of my recent experience. I am a past customer of yours having purchased a Rolex Submariner 14060 M in 2007 .
As I live in Adelaide and was visiting Sydney for a conference last week I wanted to take that opportunity for you to regulate my Explorer 114270 “D” series which is running 8 secs fast per day consistently. I rang your office three weeks ahead of time and told the person who answered that I would like you to regulate the watch while I was in Sydney .She said that I needed to ring closer to the time to arrange to bring the watch in. I did that and just happened to speak with you personally and when I explained what I required you told me that it would need and over hall which would cost $850.00 and 6 weeks turnaround time, and that regulation was not an option. To say I was then very surprised when upon returning home I opened an e mail from you citing a recent example where a customer returned a watch which he had purchased from you and wanted you to regulate it as it was running either fast or slow( not sure which) . You stated that it was a simple fix ( less than 5 minutes work) and it was running +_ 1 sec ..straight away..but you did have great trouble with the case back. My question is this : was your lack of willingness to regulate my Explorer which did not come from you (as it was a gift from my wife) .or some other reason? I am just confused. I am a huge fan of yours and have directed many people to seek you out for their watch purchases, but I am left feeling somewhat let down over this experience. I suppose what I was hoping for was that you would welcome me as a customer and agree to at least have a look at the watch and if in the end it meant leaving it with you as you were not at all confident that regulation would work ..then I would have done so.

I certainly do not want to impose on you and I know you are very busy , but I do feel kind of “not wanted”

Thanks you for taking the time to read this.

Kind regards
Richard, Adelaide


Dear Richard,

Thank you for your email.

Time keeping in mechanical watches is a very complex issue. It took us over 500 years of development to reach this current stage of precision! Today, makers of mechanical watches are investing more money than ever to improve time keeping even further. Unfortunately, due to the very nature of mechanical watches, environment, temperature, gravity, materials used, lubricants and design of escapement, we have already reached 'the peak performance' in the mid 1800s (for clocks and other chronometers) 1920 (for pocket watches) and 1970s (for wrist watches).

Without going into detail - indeed, one can write a book on the subject! - let me just point out that majority of modern (post 1950s- to now) mechanical wrist watches with straight line lever escapements like the one employed in Rolex calibres are designed to keep time within a few seconds per day. Official Swiss Chronometre certification COSC stipulates that an average daily rate of -4 to +6 seconds per day is "good enough" to pass the chronometer test. Almost all brand new watches which are finely lubricated and adjusted could keep time within 1 or 2 seconds per day.

In reality, this 'ideal' time keeping property is degraded relatively fast once the watch leaves the factory's assembly line, regardless whether the watch has been worn on the wrist daily or sitting unworn in the box. For a simple reason: deterioration of oils and lubricants! If we can produce a watch which will require no lubrication and is made of materials which will not wear out, then such a time piece will keep 'factory new' time forever. Of course, this is not possible and all mechanical watches need regular overhauls. Unfortunately, unlike with your car, one cannot just drain the old oil and replace oil filter - there isn't one in a watch! Watch movements require complete disassembly, cleaning, assembly and only then it is ready for final adjustment.
This is what we call "complete overhaul" and yes, in the case of Rolex watches $850 is standard charge. A complete overhaul is recommended every 5-6 years.

Now back to your question: why I was unable to adjust timekeeping of your Explorer in 5 minutes or less, while such adjustment was possible with GP?

According to Rolex serial numbers and production data, your D serial Explorer was manufactured in 2005 or 2006. As you indicated it is a 114270 model which has a chronometer certified movement. It is now 6 years old and had no previous service history. Which means it is now due for an overhaul. As I have explained over the phone, attempting to improve the time keeping of a watch which is due for an overhaul by varying the frequency of its balance wheel is incorrect procedure. Such adjustment is only possible for watches which are less than 1 year old, while
oil is still relatively fresh - like in the cases of above mentioned Girard Perregaux.

Let me explain why.

Your Rolex watch movement consists of a number of 'units'. Power source (main spring) train wheels, escapement, automatic winding unit, time setting section (stem and crown), calendar assembly, etc.

The units which are directly related to time keeping are: main spring - train - escapement.

All three sections are carefully designed and engineered to work together in harmony. Or more precisely, the forces which turn the wheels (main spring and train) and frequency of balance wheel (escapement) are finely synchronized.

Here is an example: if you have a weight-driven wall clock, try to gently pull the weight down. You will immediately notice that pendulum would no longer be 'ticking' as it used to.
Reduce the weight, the same thing will happen. (There is one more twist there: more or less weight will not necessary make the clock go fast or slower, but that is another story altogether).

What I'm trying to say here is this: your watch will only keep correct time when the forces applied to the train wheels and consequently, the escapement, are right.

That invisible hand which messes with your movement (taking the 'weights' of a clock train) is friction. So before we can get to final time keeping adjustment of an oscillator, we need to make
sure that forces around it are as per original design. To 'restore' that driving force, we need to clean the watch and re-oil it again.

How can I tell that a watch needs an overhaul?

Basically, I am checking the condition of lubricant by observing the force in the watch train. I am not going into detail, but a simple check on a time keeping machine will tell me if your watch is due for an overhaul or not. The loss of amplitude is usually a dead give away, but there are other things to look for. Again this has nothing to do with the average daily error (seconds per day).

Which leads us to a conclusion: a watch due for an overhaul (low amplitude of balance wheel) can still keep reasonably good time but trying to compensate for poor time keeping, which is the result of low amplitude, by varying the frequency of the oscillator ("regulation") is a bad solution.

Of course, there could be any number of other reasons why your watch may not be keeping correct time, but we cannot even consider any of them unless we take care of the obvious.

In the same way that you cannot ask your doctor to prescribe you a specific medication you think fits your symptoms, I am unable, as a professional, to undertake a certain procedure just because I'm requested to. Especially without physical examination of your timepiece.

I am sorry if you felt that your business is not welcome, but I can only assist you if you trust my expertise. As I've said over the phone, you are more than welcome to bring the watch in for a free of charge assessment.

In addition, I would be more than happy to further elaborate on any technical aspect related to time keeping, if required.

Dear Diary

Have you ever thought about what would be the most challenging place for a journalist to write from? Maybe Benghazi, or Tripoli, perhaps Damascus? Well not really. It is a two-bedroom share apartment on Bondi. With all the booze, free chicks, cheap pot and endless surf, a young journalist would have to have the will power of Dalai Lama just to sign a cheque, let alone for anything else. Except maybe for Newtown. Same as Bondi, minus chicks and surf.

The phone rang a few minutes before 5pm. My assistant wanted me to take this urgent call: it was from a journalist who was writing an article on watch collecting.

Immediately, I got excited - could this be the call from Bani McSpedden, the sharpest pen of Australian horology? BMS is my hero - and I've been waiting for an invitation for an interview since the day I saw his first article in the Financial Review. The guy is unparalleled. Many have tried, but only BMS succeeded in placing terms "Tissot", "TAG" and "tourbillon" in one sentence. Interchangeably, of course.

It turns out that on the other end was a wannabe surfer from Newtown.

Without any introduction, he got straight into it:

- Nick, I am writing an article titled "Investing in Watches." Would you be able to answer a couple of questions for me?
- Sure, no worries.
- OK. Here we go. Question number one: what can you tell me about IWC watches in 60 seconds or less?

He was neither joking nor patronizing, so I mentally encircled c/ stoned. Yet I could not help but help. The kid clearly possesses the most prized virtue: he wasn't a darn time waster.

- Listen Jack, this one is too tricky. Why don't we move to question 2?
- Sure Nick. Question number two: What is a better investment: Rolex Daytona or Breitling Navitimer?
- Mate, you can't go wrong with Daytona.
- Thanks - he said cheerfully - great stuff!

About three weeks later, someone emailed me the link to a major Sydney paper. Title: "Get rich quick collecting Flieger Chronographs". Miraculously, Jack pulled 3 solid paragraphs on such a challenging subject and to his credit, he also referenced me as N.H, celebrity watchmaker.

There is absolutely not a slightest doubt in my mind that he was never paid for his hard work - but hey, neither was Piers Akerman for his first article- and look at him now!

There was only one problem - ever since this incident, I haven't been feeling the same. As Lady Cora would say: “The point is, Nick, if you've refused Jack, you would never become a celebrity, but you would have an unsullied reputation. Now, you are just damaged goods.”

---

Well I didn't think much of it really - until about four weeks later when I got stuck in the elevator between the second and third floors of Culwulla chambers. Stuck with me - and with the elevator - was that long legged blond legal secretary from the 12th floor.

Since I am neither Indiana Jones nor Charlie Sheen, we spent time quietly staring at the floor. (Lift needed a new carpet!). Forty five minutes later, just as we were slowly running out of oxygen, she finally said:

- So, what do you do for living?
- I am a celebrity horologist.
- Wow, that's fantastic! Where is your restaurant?

[to be continued, upon request]

The ultimate fantasy

I must confess: I do enjoy Downton Abbey.

Sitting in front of the box on Sunday night has become a small ritual. And I just love every bit of it - the costumes, decor, casting.

My mechanically minded brain is easily stimulated with obvious predictability of each scene and every dialogue. You just know what they are going to say and what happens next.

While most Brits watch it because they are familiar with the vocabulary, I watch it because I'm not. When it comes to Victorian England, I am as clean as a slate (blame my Central European upbringing?) but for some weird reason, I have a feeling, that if transported back to the 1920s, I would not be out of place or time!

Here is my ultimate fantasy:

- Carson, the Longcase clock is not showing the time?
- Yes my Lord, it has stopped last night. I have arranged for Mr. Hacko to repair it.
- Mr. Hacko? That pompous clock swindler?
- Yes my Lord, I am afraid so.
- Carson, surely we can afford here someone who is more familiar with the treatment of fine timepieces?
- ... I know your Lordship would never want him to come, but since Mr. Dent left for London, Mr. Hacko is the last remaining clockmaker in Newbury.
- Good riddance!
-... And there is one more thing, my Lord... Mr. Hacko has not been paid 1 shilling and 2 pence for his last job - a repair of the pocket watch Mr. Pamuk gave to Lady Mary...
- Is that so? Well Carson, it is not quite fair to deprive a man of his livelihood when he has done nothing wrong. There are many worse professions than a clockmaker...

---

Seriously - the set of Downton Abbey is overflowing with fantastic antique and period pieces. I've spotted at least a dozen long case clocks and there is a fine bracket or ormolu clock in every room in the mansion! A feast for an eye - great scenography.

A five minute job

A couple of weeks ago we've advertised a nice Girard-Perregaux Classic Elegance '1966' watch in 18K gold case, set with diamonds. A very fine, elegant slim-line piece. The watch went to a good home - and I had the privilege of meeting both the owner and his wife - we spent almost two hours chatting. Very nice people, both over the moon about the purchase.

A few weeks later, the owner came to tell me that he is still very much in love with the watch and wonder if I can adjust the time keeping because watch was gaining a bit of time. Of course - this is just a five minute job - so I suggested that I can do it while he waited.

The five minute time frame to accomplish the task was a bit of an overkill. It really just takes a few seconds to pop up the case back, slide the micro regulator, and snap the case back on. Two minutes at most.

The watch arrived yesterday around lunch time, as scheduled. As predicted, the regulation was a piece of cake - it was oscillating gently within -1/+1 sec per day. Perfect! But getting the case back on was impossible! No matter how hard I was trying to push it on, it just would not click back! After 10 minutes, both my thumbs were sore, purple, red and green in color. But the physical pain was the least of my worries - it was the overwhelming sense of failure combined with nonchalant underestimation for time required to accomplish this simple task!

I excused myself to the owner and asked if he can leave the watch overnight.

An hour later, I've decided to give it another go. I cannot even estimate how many case backs I've snapped back on in my life - this really IS a stupidly simple task. But this one just would not budge!

Now, there are two ways of getting the case back in place: one - to place the watch in a press and snap it on, and two: to do it by hand, as I was doing. This second one is actually a preferable way, especially for solid gold cases which are thin and soft. And the ONLY way for diamond bezel watches with concave crystals. Unless of course you have at hand a factory made case holder, manufactured for this particular model.

Applying too much pressure with the wrong tool could lead to a catastrophic outcome: bent case, broken lugs, smashed crystal, scratched dial, bent hands, and crushed diamonds. Plus most likely a beyond repair movement. In this particular case we are talking about a $18,000 damage. A true watchmaker's nightmare.

Taking the watch to Girard-Perregaux's service center would be both embarrassing and useless because they would not be able to help - the watch would go back to Switzerland because there is no casing tool for the '1966' Elegance in Sydney. And this is exactly what any smart, sensible Swiss trained watchmaker would do.

But not me...

With no obvious and immediate solution, I've decided to take a few minutes rest and clear my mind. And then came the EUREKA moment! A piece of PVC tubing bought recently for a domestic plumbing job was almost ideal to turn into a custom made casing tool!

There are multiple challenges in making the holder: the material must be soft enough not to mark the gold case, yet strong enough to withstand pressure. The watch must perfectly sit, resting only on lugs, with the point of rest as close to the bezel as possible - yet not on the bezel itself. It goes without saying that glass and diamonds must remain "free" at all times, and the same goes for the winding crown.

Turning a piece of PVC into a holder is not a big deal and I was happy to put the old trustworthy Mayford lathe into good use. The lathe was too heavy to lift onto a bench from the floor so all the turning was done on the ground!

Voila!

Recess for winding stem and crown.

Finally the moment of truth: pushing the press down.

To my relief, with just the right amount of pressure, the case back clicked on in one go.

Not quite a five minute job - but definitely one less thing to worry about. As a wise man once said: nothing is impossible for those willing to improvise :-)

Coming from a good home: 1970. Sub 1680

Provenance - from the French provenir, "to come from" - means the origin or the source of something, or the history of the ownership.

In horology, documented evidence of provenance for a watch could be essential to establish that it has not been altered and is not a forgery. "Good and clean" history of ownership including any documentation related to original sale and servicing history is highly prized because the provenance itself can make a considerable difference to a watch's selling price in the market. An expert certification (for example, an insurance valuation) is not a replacement for good provenance because certifications themselves may be open to question. What you really want is material evidence which itself goes back to the date when the watchwas either manufactured or sold.

Unfortunately majority of watch owners are either not aware of the importance of keeping a 'log book', let alone interested in preserving the certificates, receipts, original invoices, hang tags, instruction manuals or even boxes! This is the main reason why only a fraction of vintage watches do come as complete sets, and only few have some kind of written documentation related to ownership and servicing history.

For that reason, our recent acquisition turned out to be a very special deal. A lovely, all-original Rolex Submariner 1680 manufactured in 1970; arrived with original fold over bracelet accompanied with a guarantee booklet! (The booklet is known as "Guarantee and at your service" sic.)

The booklet was to be filled-in by the Rolex retailer at the date of sale and kept as a servicing logbook.


Thanks to the efforts of a meticulous owner, we are now able to trace back the servicing history of this Submariner.

Manufactured in 1970, the 1680 was sold in June 1972 by Charles Packer and Company, London. The original owner vividly remembers the price: "132 pounds and 50 new pence, introduced just after decimalization in 1971."

The very first service was undertaken in 1977. Here is an excerpt from the logbook:

Date	Details of Service	Serviced By	Charge
12.4.1977	Clean, oil, adjusted	Prouds Chatswood	$ 28.50
16.4.1981	New glass, bracelet	Rolex Hong Kong	$144.50
25.3.1985	Clean, new bezel insert	Sydney	$132
24.6.1988	Re-sealed, clean	Sydney	$193
28.2.1992	Clean, seals, new glass	Sydney	$286
20.2.1998	as above	Sydney	$324
10.8.2007	as above	Sydney	$488

Once again, thanks to this meticulous record keeping, we have not only fantastic provenance but great historical data related to Rolex servicing charges over three decades as well!

As collectors and students of horology, we can only wish that every watch owner will take the same care of his precious ticker.

For more photos of this Rolex 1680 see http://www.clockmaker.com.au/w/p772.html.
Private stock, serious offers welcome.

Why are serial numbers so important?

The other day I was going through a pile of old watch magazines, when a glossy two-page flyer "flew out" of the Horologian Society. The title grabbed my attention:

"STOLEN. The following watches were stolen in London on 2nd June, 1980. Any information as to their whereabouts, etc. please pass to Det. Sergeant McMahon, Vine St Police station, London, SW1 or the Art and Antiques Squad, New Scotland Yard, London Phone 01-230 2150"

What followed was a list of 13 pockewatches with photographs and very detailed descriptions. The stuff were without any doubt both high grade and highly collectable. A couple of watches were Breguet, there was also a nice Kullberg, a Buffat Tourbillon and a vintage Lange. I can almost feel the owner's pain.

I wondered what would be the chances, 30 years later, of tracking any of these watches. To my surprise, it only took 2 minutes of googling to track the Breguets. After all, individually numbered and unique in design, they would be impossible to hide!

In November 1999, both Breguet No. 3259 and No 3964 were sold at Christie's. Here is the link to No 3259:

http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/lot_details.aspx?intObjectID=1473128

Accompanied with provenance notes:

Purchased by M. Le Comte de Toreno, 4 September 1821, for 4,800 French Francs. The Belin Collection, no. 170, Sotheby's, London, 29 November 1979, lot 194.

Based on the above, we know that last recorded sale was in November 1979. But what happened seven months later remains a mystery.

The second Breguet was also sold at the very same auction so we can assume that they remained together for 19 years after the theft. Curiously, both watches were no longer associated with their original chains and fobs.

I was able to trace one more watch: Hunt and Roskell No 10413. It was mentioned in Merrill Lynch Cap Gemini (a managed fund) World Wealth report in 2007 and it is now part of a fund offered to investors interested in fine arts. God's strange ways...

I guess it would not be all that difficult to trace most of the stolen watches. Thanks to the fact that more auctioneers and dealers list stocks online, it would be just a matter of time before they will resurface.

So the bottom line is this: keep a good record of your collection. Serial numbers, photos, detailed description including receipts, guarantee cards etc. are essential if there would ever be need to report them as missing.

Second point: never buy a watch with serial numbers removed! And dare I say - never deal with dealers who refuse to disclose serial numbers online! Dealers have only two "valid" reasons for not disclosing serial numbers publicly: for fear that such stock could be stolen or to 'cook the books' and avoid GST and income tax. A legitimate business should also provide and disclose unique stock numbers, valuations and Tax invoices.

Second hand dealing in Australia is a highly regulated area and have strict rules with regards to handling stock and collecting data - including regular reporting to the Police. Therefore it is not a matter of choice to report or not, to disclose or not or to hide and play dumb. This is the only way to keep the traders 'honest'.

Similar regulations are in place in almost every country in the world. Online dealing is no different to 'over the counter' dealing so the same rules apply. Don't settle for less because by buying illegitimate stock or supporting shonky dealers, you are actually sailing in murky waters - and possibly be the first one to sink ending up as shark's feed.

Remember: the honest dealer has nothing to hide!

At the end of the day, we are merely guardians taking care of fine horology for generations to come. What an enjoyable and noble task!

An absolute entry level - or thereabouts...

The second most commonly asked question is "Nick, which one should I go for?" The short answer is - go for what you like and can afford.

And here is the longer version:

$10 - $200

The absolute entry level range in mechanical watches. Heaps to chose from - if you are not worried about external condition, resale value, water resistance, time keeping and... everything else! The name of the game here is go for what you like - and lower your expectations to avoid disappointment. You can still snatch a bargain: a smart Seiko 5 or some obscure Swiss made brand form 1970s in NOS (new old stock) condition. Unfortunately any money you'll spend on restoration or repair would really be just throwing good money after a bad watch. Not wise. Avoid anything that is not in working order - if it does not keep time, it's not a watch!

$200 - $500

Again, there is so much to choose from - especially on eBay or at an auction. Despite large offers, you would barely be entering the Swiss watch market so be extra careful: buying just for the look is no longer recommended. Most of the stock in this price bracket is unrestored and non-functional: "Bargains" in need of major repair - or at least complete overhaul. Overall condition rarely rises above 5/10, which means virtually no resale value. However if you are looking for
a nice 'beach special' and don't mind scratches or an out-of-trend size, then you should be able to find a decent pre-loved 'ticker'.

$500 - $1000

For five hundred bucks you should be able to pick a fairly decent Swiss watch. Or even a waterproof one - if you stretch it to a thousand ;-) Best buys are pre-owned Longines, Oris, or TAG in 8/10 condition. Don't settle for discoloured dial or hands, chipped or scratched crystals or worn / damaged bezel. A short bracelet is acceptable (you can always find a few extra links) but don't expect it to come with box or papers. Great price bracket if you are on a hunt for a nice, well-made pocket watch! Many pocket watches like railroad open face in steel/nickel or silver case still represent the best value for money in mechanical time keeping!

Tip: Buy only pocket watches with original balance staff, winding stem in perfect condition and no damage on case/hinge.

$1000 - $2000

Great place to be - especially for a first time buyer! In this price range, there is plenty of quality stock on offer. Best buys in pre-loved: Omega Seamaster and Speedmaster in 'as is' condition.
If you are not in a hurry, snatching a 9/10 piece should not be that difficult. And spending a few extra dollars on an overhaul is a wise investment- you'll have a watch which will last you for many years to come!

Tip: If you intend to own more than one timepiece don't overspend! One or two watches will do you just fine because the resale value is still under 50% at the best. Be picky: go for good provenance, box, papers, or recently overhauled stock. Take your time to learn about watches and watch collecting - investing in ‘knowledge’ is priceless!

$2000 - $3000

Welcome to the world of fine mass produced watches! Well, you've just arrived so don't get too cocky :-) This is really a 'wearer's market' - you are buying watch to wear, enjoy and be proud of. Smart choice: fine pre-owned stock in 9.5/10 condition or better. Unwanted gifts. Demonstrators. Overhauled stock - maybe a last year’s model, but still in like new condition.
This is Omega's territory: Moon watches, limited editions, Seamaster chronographs, smart Aqua Terras, dress, casual, sporty - plenty to chose from. A kind of stuff you would wear in office or with an Armani suit. Stuff that will impress any Holden or Ford owner, stuff that makes your boss (who still wears a 20 year old plastic Qantas el-chipo) look like a character from Summer Heights High.

Of course, if you are only buying a watch to impress yourself (as you should!) then feel free to explore other options: Baume and Mercier, TAG Carrera, Chopard, Mont Blanc, Fortis. Remember, you are taking advantage of other people's extravagance (previous owner made a wrong pick - wrong size or model, or simply wants to upgrade too quickly and need your liquid funds) so make sure to take as much advantage as you possibly can! Have no mercy, take no prisoners: ask to see that original receipt!

Vintage market: again, plenty of choices. Go for overhauled and restored - you can finally afford it! Avoid all battery operated and gold plated stock. Holy grail: a nice 1940s military chronograph in steel with black dial restored by an experienced watchmaker.

Tip: Don't even think of Rolex - in this price range you'll get nothing but a headache.

$3000 - $5000

Heaven for a first time buyer: You can finally buy them all :-) Or one good piece at least. Arriving at the Rolex level is fun: strong brand name, good re-sale value, water resistance, classic look. Plus all the Breitlings, top of the range Omegas – even the odd Panerai. You can have it all: the look, the quality. Each and every watch you try on feels good and appears as an excellent value for money!

Unfortunately for an enthusiastic and aspiring buyer, this is probably the most difficult price range. Such buyer is faced with a bitter paradox: While he was happy to double his or her spending budget, it looks like he really halved choices. He realizes that there is no such thing as a waterproof Navitimer, large Datejust or cheap Submariner. That dream 5513 with cream dial and original hands is nowhere to be found. Why is picking the right one so difficult now?
Confused, he spends more time researching, talking to dealers and reading watch magazines. Online watch forums no longer offer clear direction and eBay is no more Las Vegas.

$5000 - $10000

For those who've reached the 5-10K price range, life is good again. Finally, everything makes sense: You get what you pay for! Most importantly, you no longer need help choosing the right stock. As an experienced buyer, you know the difference between in-house movement and ETA,
and you no longer judge the watch by its appearance, brand or size. You are very picky (which is a good thing) have refined taste (still more a result of previous mistakes than in depth knowledge) and you are confident talking to fellow collectors and dealers - who finally take you seriously :-) Jaeger LeCoultre is king, and so is the IWC. Limited editions Panerai are tempting.
That black dial Daytona really looks cool :-) You've also realized that your pile of Omegas and two Datejusts is not really a serious collection. You are grateful to local dealers who exchange the whole lot for a nice pile of cash. Dealers are your best friend, collecting is fun - and you are ready to move on!

$10 - $20K

We are now talking serious money so let's get serious.

Best buy: Like new condition Rolex President. A mint condition Patek. IWC Big Pilot. Anything Lange (but not Glashutte!)

Now here is my tip: $15K is a mental barrier for even serious watch collectors so there is hardly any competition for fine stock. Cash is king so don't be surprised to see dealers bending backwards for your business. Finally, you are buying for enjoyment, not to impress.
And thanks to GFC, that double red Seadweller with box and papers is no longer out of reach.
You hate dealers, but that's OK.

$20K - $50K

Patek 5146 or 5110? Why not 5135? Maybe 1970s Daytona? Platinum Portugueser? Go for it, have fun :-) Watches are fun - as much as your newly acquired VIP buyer status is. You no longer have 'watch friends’ - neither real nor imaginary. After being banned from most watch forums you again talk to dealers.

$50 - $100K

Tourbillon. IW 177. JLC Master Grand T. Panerai PAM 276.
You have received a Christmas card from Angelo Bonati.
That dealer in Hong Kong now knows you by your first name.

$200K+

More tourbillon: Lange Cabaret.
You are invited to October Fest and Richemont pays for your beer and wurst.
Harry Winston Opus Eleven? Can't wait to see it finished!

$500K to 1 mil.

Finally, you are ready to let go all machine made stuff. Intrigued by haute horology, you now spend both summer and winter holidays lurking around Geneva. Can a watch be regarded as a Super fund? Self managed, of course! Too much to chose, but sitting on a waiting list for 5 years is not fun.

2.5mil +

Jaeger LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie.
Single at 62 - and you enjoy every moment.

3-5 mil

You are back to Patek military chronographs.
Flying on Tuesday to Geneva for Christie's auction preview,
then flying on Saturday to bid on it in person.
Bidding over the phone is so not cool.

5mil +

Watch collecting is no longer fun - and playing all day with that Patek 1527 ($5.6 mil) has gotten a bit boring… You've got them all and you want some more - but there is hardly anything out there to quench your thirst!

Flying to Switzerland is no longer practical either so you've bought a stunning thirteenth-century chateau overlooking Lake Geneva.

Nice people from Christie's left a message that you may be interested in a small portrait by Picasso - great piece - with an estimate of just $9mil - absolute entry level in fine art...

Today I came across a vintage watch booklet which had the following slogan on the front page:



Encountering this was one of those moments that, although you are already being aware of it, really drives home the point of just how much times have changed. I mean, really, who could get away with using a slogan like this in 2011?

Anyway, time for a bit of fun...see if you can answer this:

Who is the company that this slogan belongs to, and what year is it from?

A. Patek Philippe, 1942.

B. Jaeger LeCoultre, 1920.

C. Rolex, 1966.

D. Omega, 1947.

Scroll down for the answer!

















*NB: This slogan was used for at least 10 years prior! For those interested, an excellent article on the subject written by Jake Ehrlich is available here.

Collectible Omega Sportswatches from the '70s

Collectible Omega Sportswatches from the '70s
- an Evening with Jon Wallis; April 20, 2011, 5:30pm

Want to know more about the vast range of Omega Sports watches from the 1970s? Need to know your Flightmaster from your Speedmaster and your Constellation from your DeVille? Want to know which are the most accurate and which are the rarest? Contemplating a vintage Omega dive watch and want to understand the range? Want to get to know some quartz watches that actually are collectable? And of course, we hope to answer those questions and more on the night!

So, come along to the presentation on Wednesday, April 20 and Jon Wallis (Author of The PloProf Book and DeskDivers.com and PloProf.com websites) will talk you through the collectible Omega watches of the decade. Jon will answer your questions too! Feel free to bring along your 70's Omegas on the night so the group can revel in Omega's '70s glory, and of course we can time your watches on the timing machine as well.

BOOKINGS: This is a private session at our premises so seats are strictly limited to 12. To reserve your seat please call us on 02 9232 0500. Cost: $40 per person.

Pop Quiz: The Results are in!

The response to the quiz was overwhelming! A total of 247 replies were received within 24 hours.

Quite frankly though, I was a little disappointed with the number of incorrect answers, especially since the correct answer was there - a simple guess should have had a one in four chance!

Some of you went to great lengths to explain why one or the other case back was 'wrong' by taking into account style of letters, font, symbols, logo type, finish of steel, model and reference numbers.

Yet only ONE correct answer was received:

"Dear Nick,

Both are genuine! I’m from Sabah, Malaysia.

Regards,

Michael Lee"

Well done Michael!

This just proves that our northern neighbours do know their watches and are good students of horology!

(Michael: Please email me your address - I have a small present for you).

"Original or fake?" is my favourite watch topic. Often, there is no easy answer and it takes a great deal of effort and expertise to become 'fluent' in this area of horology. Putting the pieces together, working backwards and employing every available forensic skill is often challenging...but always rewarding.

The purpose of the quiz is to encourage you, my fellow watch enthusiast, to question everything and to have some fun along the way :-)

In regards to case backs: I hope to be able to present you with a brief article on what to look for in order to avoid pitfalls. Stay tuned!

It goes without saying that buying a fine timepiece based on photos is like handing over your wallet to a stranger. If your chances are 247 to 1 then basically you stand NO CHANCE against online scammers! Scary!

Now, are you ready for your second chance?

(And If you find my emails of no value or if I'm wasting your time then of course, feel free to unsubscribe - see below for details)

I want you to win :-) so although today's question is not much easier, you should have more chance of scoring with only 3 answers to choose from.

Below is a photo of four Rolex dials, the first one is from a Datejust model and the other 3 from a Submariner.

The second photo shows the reverse side - and the third one shows writing on each dial in detail.

Note that only one dial is signed "Rolex".




Question: Which dial/dials are GENUINE Rolex dials?

A. only dial number 2. is original
B. all dials are original
C. all dials are fake

Mail your answer to nick@clockmaker.com.au

Have fun!

Pop quiz: Fake or real?

So you think you know your Rolexes? Then here's a little pop quiz for you:

Shown below are two case backs.


Which answer is correct?

1. Case back 1 is a genuine Rolex, case back 2 is a fake


2. Case back 2 is genuine Rolex, case back 1 is a fake


3. Both case backs are genuine


4. Both are fakes

Before you rush to answer, take your time to study both
case backs (enlarged images below).




Send your answer to nick@clockmaker.com.au

Good luck and have fun!

***Need help?
Here is a tip: Case back 1 comes from Datejust model Ref. 16234 [steel/18K white gold], and 2 from Submariner 16610...

Another day, another fake...

As you may already know, the ultimate reward for a watch dealer is the 'discovery' of an unworn sleeper: a watch which is 30 or more years old, yet in unworn condition.

Last Monday we received a call from a young lady who wanted to sell a “beautiful and unworn gold Omega watch”. Unfortunately the Omega Geneve in 18K solid gold case accompanied with the "original" receipt of purchase (dated 1972) turned out to be just another fake. Yes, the movement cal 601 was an original Omega movement, but everything else - the case, bezel, case back and bracelet - was unfortunately after-market production.

The dead giveaway was the shape of the case. And even more so, the inscription found inside the case back:


While it could fool an untrained eye, for an expert this case back was a painfully amateurish attempt to deceive. The logo type, the engraving, the style - in fact, the lot - was just wrong.


In this particular case, the engraving was done by hand using a sharp engraver (Omega case backs are stamped, not engraved). The quality of workmanship was pathetic too; each and every letter was engraved out of line, and even the Omega symbol is out of shape.


The second line was even worse: it looked to me like it had been engraved by some old half-blind crook working by candle light. I almost feel sorry for the poor bastard!

Ironically, the middle case itself was nicely done. It was highly polished and would appear attractive and even desirable to anyone whose best watch had been a Russian Raketa or Poljot.

The "original" receipt was issued in Italy and printed in both Italian and Serbo-Croatian. No doubt, the intended market for this forgery were cashed-up Yugoslav customers who flooded Trieste in early 1970’s.

While I had to politely decline to buy this watch, it certainly has brought back some memories from my early days as watchmaker-apprentice from my father's workshop. Very often, "new" Italian watches were brought to my father's workshop and he was often left with no other choice but to break the bad news to gullible buyers.

The world of forgery knows no borders and when it comes to watches, this trade has been alive for at least 500 years. Back then, the master con artists were the Brits and French, followed by Spaniards and citizens of New Colonies. Italians, Russian and Romanians had their run in 1970’s until global trade took off in China, Vietnam and Korea.

Today, thanks to the advancement of Internet, there is practically no country that is not involved in some form of watch scam, fraud or forgery.

Another day, another fake...

Aquadive Depth-Time Model

An e-mail we received from DeskDivers' news desk - A MUST READ!


Back in 1968 a small watch company filed a patent for a cool idea to measure
depth on the dial of a normal dive watch. They decided to back that watch
with technology through and through using cutting edge ideas including
hydraulics and an electronic movement. What started out as a good idea
became a seriously good product (not without its ups and downs of course),
yet within 10 years the company was no more - quite a rollercoaster of a
ride for any business!

Click here to get the full story

The “secret signature” business

We are constantly bombarded by fake items; from leather bags, to clothing, to jewellery, to watches, “knockoff” versions are everywhere.

For some reason, most people seem to think this is a relatively recent occurrence due to the sheer volume of fake stock currently available, when in reality, counterfeiting is as old as humankind itself!

There is a small pocket of the consumer market that is fine with the phony version of larger brand products, but ultimately production of these goods harm the original manufacturers and those willing to pay for brand name and the quality that comes with it.

The problem with fake goods is that the quality of them is now almost as good as the quality of the originals, and in some cases, even authorised service centres are unable to distinguish between genuine and fakes!

To combat this, it is common practice in the watch industry that the manufacturer would use a “secret signature” to mark his product.
Here is an example of Cartier’s signature: a rose symbol stamped on the middle case, just above 12 o’clock and underneath the bezel.


This symbol is not there for the end user. It is well hidden and tucked away from the eyes of counterfeiters as well. It is there for the service centres as assurance that they are assessing and dealing with the genuine article.


Of course the “secret signature” does change from time to time, which makes our own investigative more interesting!

Yes, we've seen them all.

Every now and then, a watch brought in for repair reminds me that fine watches are not designed and built for those who have no appreciation for fine mechanical engineering.

Pictured below is a four years young Rolex Submariner 16613. What exactly happened to it will remain a mystery, and even more so how it happened; but one thing is certain: applying brute force will not do any good to the fine winding system of any mechanical wrist watch.

Here is a brief explanation of what happens when you pull the winding crown
to set the time:

The stem (attached to the crown) will engage a number of setting levers, which
will in return push the clutch wheel to engage with the intermediate setting wheel. From there, the motion is transferred to few more wheels and finally to the hands.


Needless to say, the gear work is very fine and requires gentle handling.
Applying too much force too quickly will definitely cause problems.

To put the things in perspective, here is a shot of a clutch wheel and set wheel
next to a 5 cent coin:


If those wheels are free to move and lubricated properly, they will withstand
significant winding force. However if the wheels seize up or are jammed (by a loose crew or case clamp) then unfortunately something will break.

And here is another close-up:


Note the stripped teeth! In addition, the hardened steel setting lever was bent too!


Black specks shown above are actually broken off teeth that have lodged themselves
deep inside the watch movement, causing the watch to stop.

And all this could have been avoided with just a bit more care and common sense.

The photo below shows partially disassembled Rolex 3135 with calendar and winding system removed.


The bottom line is this: if the winding or time setting feels strange or tight, restrain yourself from applying any excessive force. Leave it as is and take it to your watchmaker. Often this is a tell tale sign that your watch is due for an overhaul.

The last thing you want to do is to cause further damage - which is not only completely unnecessary, but very costly too.

Cartier alarm clocks

If you are one of my regular subscribers, then you are well aware that I am a sucker for Cartier alarm clocks. Fine Cartier clocks have been in production since the late 1800's, and some of the finest examples are now worth many hundreds of thousands of dollars! They have always been regarded as toys for the privileged few, but in today's era of mass production, it is nice to know that Cartier is still designing fine alarm clocks.

Yes, starting your day with the soft chime of a Cartier alarm clock is one of life's little luxuries...

A pleasant buying experience

The experience of buying a high grade watch should be no different than one of buying a sports car or diamond ring. It should be a pleasant, memorable and definitely a satisfactory event.

At the end of the day, you - the buyer - is parting with a large amount of money,
so you should expect to be treated not just professionally, but with respect. After all, when it comes to buying a new piece of jewellery or a watch, that buying experience is included in the price of your item.

This is exactly why retailers spend a great deal of money to impress you with
the shop fit-out, the luxury packaging, the red carpet and the glass of champagne. Don't get too excited though, you are the one who is paying for the lot (including the fake smile!).

Unfortunately those very same luxury retailers are often the first ones to rob you of that precious commodity.

Indeed, the "fancy" buying experience is often overvalued and poorly delivered.
Why bother buying at full retail price from an authorised and exclusive dealer when
the moment you walk out of that glamorous shop your watch (or car, or diamond ring) loses 30, 40 or even 60% of its value?

Some buyers are victims of their own mindset and they will continue to buy (and pay) retail simply because they are incapable of considering alternatives. There are numerous, but here are a few:

- buying from an authorized dealer located in the suburbs
- buying last year's model on sale
- buying a new, identical item from a non-authorized dealer or
- buying a pre-owned watch in mint or near mint condition from a second hand dealer

You would be surprised how much you can save once you decide to break away
from that 'must be brand new' mentality.

Indeed, some of the finest pieces of jewellery, diamonds, fine watches and clocks, objects 'd art, paintings, books, scientific instruments, motoring - even real estate - have already been passed from generation to generation often increasing in value. All of these objects are no longer available new, yet when sold at auction they generate great interest and attract knowledgeable buyers.

Interestingly enough, based on years of dealing with collectors and savvy customers,
we know that those who actually have more disposable income and can afford luxury
are very happy to buy fine pre-owned items!

To put things in perspective: out of the entire quantity of fine watches in circulation, brand new watches account for just a fraction of a percent. A mere tip of the iceberg!

Therefore if you have consciously excluded the idea of owning fine pre-owned stock, you are not doing yourself any favors.

For an educated buyer, the ultimate buying experience is VALUE FOR MONEY and a thrill in hunting for timepieces which are no longer available
from authorized retailers. They love to save, not to lose money; they buy items which are not necessary the latest hype but those which have already depreciated, have a proven resale record, have reasonable resale value and can be bought at a significant discount.

Finally, in order to get your business and take your buying experience to the next level, many second hand dealers and watchmakers will provide additional services like case and bracelet polishing or adjustment, valuation, repair and servicing, or even a trade-in or buy back option of your timepiece.

As we always say, those who are not in a hurry and have realistic expectations will always get a better deal and ultimately be rewarded with a truly satisfying buying experience.

Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33 MARS Titanium watch
A rare collector's set

"Selling" online

As most watch collectors are aware, there are a near-infinite number of second hand watches for sale online through a multitude of dealers – some reputable, some less so.

The information age has made it so simple for the dodgy types to cut and paste from websites and use these legitimate sounding ads to con unsuspecting buyers.

I was recently tipped off to this ad by a friend. The fact that this particular dealer "borrowed" his product description from my own website is nothing new - I am actually more surprised that one of my ads ended up on Gumtree Cape Town, South Africa (of all places!)



The bottom line here is simple. If the seller doesn’t give you the opportunity to see the item in person, DON’T BUY!

There is a huge difference between “selling” online and selling online. It may seem obvious to say, but many buyers are still falling for it – don’t be one of them.

Lost & Found

Have you stopped to think what would happen if your watch were to be misplaced or lost? It's a situation that can happen to anyone, so I thought I'd share this email enquiry that I'd recently received about this very situation:

Hi Nick

Just a superquick query - we found a Breitling watch on the street yesterday morning. My partner knew of the brand & that they were a good quality watch - and expensive! We handed it in to our local Police Station. My partner said there appeared to be some kind of number on the back....Is this number able to be used to track the owner? I'm horrified that someone has dropped such an expensive watch. It was close to the roadway, as if it had come off someone's wrist while getting into a car. There are 2 aged care homes nearby & we've dropped in there with negative results.

Many thanks in advance
T

---

Dear T,

First of all, you must be congratulated on your honesty! In your effort to locate the owner of the lost watch, you've gone way above your duty of care. Well done!

To answer your question: Unfortunately, numbers on the case back are not directly related to the owner. There are two lots of numbers on it: 1) The model reference number, which (in the case of Breitling watches) starts with a letter followed by 5 or more numbers. The second lot is the unique serial number.

It is always a good idea to record any numbers or text engraved on the case back of your watch. If it is lost or misplaced, this is crucial piece of evidence which will help in the identification of your watch.

Better still, have your watch valued and insured! Insurance valuation does not cost much (we gladly provide free insurance valuation for all watches we sell). In the unfortunate case of loss or theft, please contact Police and your insurance company promptly.

Back to your situation: We do hope that police will be able to trace the owner of the Breitling, however, if the watch remains unclaimed for a certain period of time, legally you will become it's owner. :-).

The police will contact you and you will have every right to claim it, keep it or sell it - assuming, of course, that it is a genuine Breitling.

Thanks,

Nick

More Lost & Found here

---

Some related stories sent in by one of our readers:

'Some years ago I was running along the beach at Kingscliff, northern NSW and found a watch lying in the sand. The watch was a diving model Tag Heuer – quite an expensive watch back then. Whilst I would have loved to keep the watch I knew the owner would have also loved to get it back so did the right thing and handed it in to a local police station.

Several months later I received a call from the police station to advise me the watch had not been claimed and I could pick it up – I was delighted! However, the following day I had another call from the police to advise me not to bother claiming the watch as it had been stolen, along with some other valuables, during an overnight break-in at the police station. Oh the disappointment!'

Another watch story that had a good ending follows:

'A good friend had his car broken into a couple of years ago at Byron Bay and had his 1970s Omega Seamaster stolen. Several months later a work colleague had his car stolen from the beach at Kingscliff (about 40 mins drive north of Byron). Months later, the police found this car in QLD and advised my colleague of the find and asked if he had lost an Omega Seamaster watch that was in the car’s glove box. On being told this story, I told my Byron Bay friend to contact the QLD police just in case it was the same thief and his watch. He did this and described the watch to the police – yes it was his – it had returned!'