Hand-made in Arita

The simplest way to describe this watch is understated sophistication, with such an incredible story hidden in the dial.  Arita, a small town on Kyushu, the third largest island in the southwest of Japan, came to prominence in the early 17th century when clay suitable for porcelain manufacture was discovered there. Its porcelain products soon became highly prized in Japan for the high quality of their artistry. Within a generation, Arita porcelain, also known as ‘‘Imari ware’’ after the port from which most was shipped, became known overseas. It was exported, first to Europe and later across the world when Japan opened its doors to international trade in the 19th century. Today, Arita porcelain is still highly prized worldwide. Many porcelain makers still thrive in the town of just 20,000 people, thanks to its long tradition of craftsmanship, to the rich variety of its products and to the uniquely Japanese sensibility that they embody. The heritage of Arita porcelain is respected in the colour of the dials, white with a trace of blue, which was the colour of the earliest Arita porcelain. The dials, which are made in Arita itself, have the rich texture and depth which is the signature of all the finest porcelain. Arita porcelain was therefore a natural choice for the dials of a Presage collection but the Presage team needed to be 100% confident in its durability and strength. A new type of Arita porcelain material, created just three years ago, provided the solution. This new porcelain is more than four times harder than the usual material and has both the strength and flexibility required for a Presage watch dial. Producing the dials involves a challenging combination of skill, patience and artistry. First, the base material is put into a special mold which gives dials depth, especially in the version where the power reserve indictor is recessed into the dial with a deep cut. The dials are dried and then fired for the first time at 1,300 degrees to harden and whiten the material. Hashiguchi and his craftsmen then apply the glaze by hand, after which the dials are fired again, this time cementing the glaze on to the dial, a process which gives the dials their deep, rich finish and the subtle blue tinge. Next, the holes for the hands are cut by laser. Finally, the dials are then fired again to render smooth the surfaces that have been cut. This watch is an incredible display of Japanese artistry and it highlights and supports the highly specialised, niche tradition of Arita Porcelain production. Not only are they produced by hand, but no two dials are the same, with each forming their own specific hues of blue and white and texture during the production process. You can get a better look of the creation of the dial from start to finish in this video below with craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VdwcgKAAr8 Model reference: SPB267J. 40.6mm case size. Automatic movement with date and power reserve function. Water resistance 100 metres. Limited Edition to only 2,000 piece worldwide. Individually numbered: 611/2000. Price: $2,995

NH3 update:

Despite the many New Year wishes across the state for just the opposite, Sydney crawled over the start line for 2022 - Omicron is sweeping through the city (and country) at a ravenous pace, completely devouring any productivity brave enough to stay in it's path. Several staff members, even in our small family team, have over the Christmas break and early January been side-lined due to contraction or close contact isolation. Unfortunately this has affected both the manufacturing side of the business in Brookvale, and the assembly and testing, here in the city. However, despite the setbacks, the team in Brookvale is almost fully back on track and making the last few components required to complete our assemblies. The team in the city is now out of first gear and beginning to make a dent in the backlog of repairs, and NH3 assembly and delivery to our customers. Whilst it would be easy to give in to our own internal deadlines, we simply will not accept allocating less than one hundred percent of our energy, concentration, and perfectionist attitude to the NH3 project. If your NH3 isn't on its way already, it will be soon. Thank you to our ambassadors. The biggest compliment for us is a happy customer. Without your support in times both good and bad, we would surely not have been able to keep going.

Reading time - the Breitling Bezel (part 2)

Great Scott! How many functions are there? Today we will 'go back' into the many functions of the Breitling bezel (really any pilot watch bezel) and how to read them. In the last part we discussed simple multiplications and divisions. In this part, we will explain some conversions (as most pilot bezels default in miles) from miles to kilometres and vice versa. First off, let's just reiterate that we are only using the outermost 2 scales on the watch. The outer sliding track printed on the bezel, and the inner fixed track printed on the outer circumference of the dial. The scales are logarithmic in spacing, and printed with very small text, so most of these calculations are a fairly close approximation. Let's also not forgot the decimal dilemma. 10 on the outer scale is also 0.1, 1, 100, 1000, etc, much the same as for the other numbers on the scales. We use the same calculation on the bezel to convert miles to kilometres, as we do for miles per hour to kilometres per hour (and vice versa, to go from kilometres to miles etc.). For example, let's say we want to find out exactly how fast Marty McFly and Doc got that steam locomotive to travel, when they said 88 miles per hour. First, 1 kilometre is approximately 0.621 miles. So we align 62.1 on the outer scale, with the 10 (in red) on the fixed scale. Then on the outer scale, find 88. The inner track will display the kilometres conversion (either kilometres, or kilometres per hour) which for us says about 14.15. This obviously isn't the speed as that would have been very easy to reach, even for a steam locomotive. So we move the decimal place to find approximately 142 kilometres per hour (flat out on straight track, most steam locomotives back then topped out at 40 to 50 miles per hour). The exact answer is 141.6 kilometres. In much the same way, if you have kilometres you need converted to miles, you do the reverse, without touching the bezel. To find out how many miles it is across Australia, you look for 3860 (kilometres across Australia) on the inner track, to read your miles off the outer track. Your scale doesn't have 3860? You're only partially correct. It does have 38.6 which is the same number as far as our logarithmic scales are concerned. Looking now to 38.6 on the fixed inner track, we read off the outer bezel a hair under 24 (or 2400). The correct answer being closer to 2398.5. Not too bad an approximation when you compare the width of Australia with the circumference of your Breitling. In this way, once you align 62.1 with the red 10 a shown above and below, all conversions for all numbers from 0 to infinity can be calculated at a glance. We will return again with more Breitling Bezel tutorials as there are still many more uses for it. Andrew

Reading Time - the Breitling Bezel

Here it is: The long awaited Breitling 'how to' component of our reading time newsletter articles (or at least part one for Breitling). How to use a Breitling bezel, or any other flight type bezel for that matter: We should first start out by defining the points on the bezel and what they mean, so as to ease our understanding of the calculations and how to make them. Firstly, the bezel is technically called a slide rule. Pilots have used them for decades to calculate anything from simple multiplications, to how far to turn the nose of their plane into a crosswind so as not to be pushed off course. Below we can see an actual slide rule (or in this very complicated case, 'flight computer') used in the training of pilots, which was kindly donated to us by a loyal supporter. This is a standard tool across the aviation industry and when Willy Breitling first released his Navitimer in 1952 at the behest of the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, he designed the slide rule to be as similar as possible to the below training tool. This instantly made the watch familiar to the AOPA members and is one of the main reasons the Navitimer is the go-to for pilots worldwide. The slide rule is made up of two rules or tracks, the fixed (inner) and the sliding (outer). The fixed rule or track is on the actual dial, and like the name suggests, does not move. The sliding rule or track is on the bezel itself and is what you rotate to make the calculations. Most pilot watches will also have a tachymeter and then a minute track for the running time, printed inside the two slide rule tracks. When making the calculations below, the only numbers considered are the ones on the two outermost tracks.

Another thing we must understand is that the decimal point is not found on a slide rule. For example the 16 on the outer bezel also represents 0.0016, 0.016, 0.16, 1.6, 160, 1600, 16000 etc. A little bit of common sense is needed here, and will become apparent in the explanations below. The slide rule is also not a linear scale but a logarithmic one. This just means the physical distance on the scale between similar intervals is different, for example the distance between 10 and 20 on the outer ring is much further than between 20 and 30. The best thing to do for practice is make different calculations with your watch and check them with a calculator to gain confidence. First off, let’s start with everybody's favourite calculation: Division. This calculation is fairly easy actually. Let’s say we want to divide 75 by 12. Maybe it's a shared Christmas gift for someone (a little late I know but a good example). Line up 75 on the sliding outer track with 12 on the fixed inner track. The 10 (in red) on the fixed inner track will point to the answer which is 62.5. Now the decimal place dilemma comes into play. We know that 62.5 is much too large an answer for our question. So we mentally slide the decimal place across to either 6.25, or further to 0.625. It’s easy to see that 0.625 is way too small to be the answer, so we stick with 6.25 or $6.25 per person. Percentages? Even easier. Say we want to find 19.8% of 57,500 (keeping in mind a complex calculation like this is difficult to find the exact number as there just isn't enough room on the bezel). We line up 57.5 on the outer sliding bezel with 10 (in red) on the inner fixed track. We then look for 19.8 on the fixed inner track and the answer on the bezel reads a tiny bit under 11.4 which with decimal place adjustment is just under $11,400. A short trip to your iPhone calculator confirms the answer as 11,385. Without moving the bezel, you can see any percentage of 55,700 or 557 or 0.557. You just read from a different number on the inner track to its corresponding number on the outer track, and keep the decimal place dilemma in mind.  Second cab off the rank: Multiplication. Remember your 17 times tables? Absolutely not. But now you've not only got a Breitling Navitimer, you know how to use it. Slide your bezel so that 17 on the outer track is lined up with 10 (in red) on the fixed inner track. Now the result for any fixed number (inner track) multiplied by 17, is displayed on the outer track. For example, 17 x 25 = 42.5. But we know that number is much too small to be the correct answer, so we move the decimal point over to either 425 or 4,250 or 42,500. A simple calculation like 20 x 25 = 500 makes it easy to confirm the answer is indeed 425. For the case where the numbers do not line up exactly, either an approximation can be made, or you can just mentally work around it. For example 17 x 26 = looks like maybe 44.1 or 44.2 (441 or 442) by reading off the bezel. Alternatively, you can just calculate 17 x 20 and 17 x 6 (6 being the MPH marker at the top of the dial, which reads as 10.2 but is actually 102) as they are easier to see. Adding these gives us 340 + 102 = 442. Or you can just look around the bezel for the closest whole number even multiplication and add or subtract the rest in your head. I do apologise again if these explanations are getting a little too confusing to understand. There are so many more calculations that can be made with the sliding bezel but for this newsletter I will leave you with these two most common everyday calculations. We will get back into Breitling soon. Andrew

Important. Please read.

As I type this, our Kern Micro is to be loaded on a ship at Bremerhaven port, Germany, to start its voyage to Sydney. It is expected to arrive in March. Once installed, it will be the most precise 5 axis milling machine - not only in Australia, but in the entire Southern Hemisphere. Our machine was commissioned in March 2021, built per our specification and paid off in full last week.  We shook hands with the Germans over zoom, and they delivered as promised, on time, as per specs. Now, it is all in God's hands; we pray for calm seas and a safe voyage. Yes, the machine is fully insured as well, just in case. However, once the new mill arrives, we are still not done. Here is the timeline: March: GST payable on import (100K), transport costs (21K), local installation (10K) April: German engineers arriving; installation and calibration (50K) May: tooling (50-75K, initial setup) July: 10 days training in Germany (25K) First parts to be machined: September 2022. Clearly, we are not there yet. The next 10 months are going to be packed with action, the acquisition of tools, and learning how to get most out of this demanding 'Ferrari' of precision manufacturing. And we will continue to bleed cash.  I am not sharing all of this just to brag about it. I am sharing the excitement because we need to plan for the future. Together. There is no better way to support Australian manufacturing than to invest in an Australian watch. Here is the deal: today, I am happy to offer Mark 1 (40mm automatic watch) on 10 monthly instalments, at $360 per month. And because our business is based on trust, I am happy to ship that Mark 1 the moment we shake hands on the deal.  I trust you will do the right thing and pay off your watch over the next 10 months.  While a $360 monthly instalment is not that much money, your continued support will mean a lot to us. It will provide us with the peace of mind and enable us to complete the project, on time.  As a very special 'thank you for your support' I will throw in a 10 year guarantee on your Mark 1. That will include a complete overhaul when the watch is due for one, in 5 years time - completely free of charge.  To place your order now, and have the watch shipped today, reply to this email and Gemma will get back to you ASAP. $360 per month, that's all. You will love your Mark 1 and you will wear it with pride. Guaranteed. I will leave you with the below feedback on this very watch, received over the weekend. "Hi Nick I am sure you meet many people and may not remember me, but I vividly remember the day we met at your shop. Your story inspired me so much that I insisted to Gemma that I see you when I came to collect my MK1. She was reluctant and with my persistence got her to get you to see me. I am glad you did and for releasing your lucky serial number 88 to me.  I am continuing to tell the inspiring story of the Aussie Made watch movement to the younger generation. The MK1 has found a new home on the wrist of my son, on his first day of work. I told him that the watch represents hard work, a will to win and most of all a lifetime of dedication to excellence in watchmaking, and for him to reflect and live by those values each day he works. The watch has not left his wrist and I thank you for continuing to stand for your passion and not giving up on a dream. Your humble supporter, Karl"

We've put a part in to space. And one into your bum.

Literally. The past few weeks, we've been involved in a project with an Aussie medical company which specializes in the design of surgical instruments. Naturally, we can not disclose much, except that we have successfully made parts for an instrument, which if approved, will save time and reduce pain. Previously, those parts were made overseas with 6 weeks of lead time. We can do it in three days, including delivery. And unlike watch dials, medical instruments do not need to be signed with the maker's name. One more to share with you: last week we shipped our first NH3 to a customer in the US. On Monday, he called us to report that the watch is now stuck with US Customs. He asked for more information and was informed that "the export declaration has not been filled in correctly; it says 'manufactured in Australia' which is clearly a mistake". What a compliment! Finally: I believe in fairness, so if you are saving your pennies for a Rebelde Control Tower, as of January 1 the price of this classic is going to be $2,800. This is the first price increase in years. I suggest that you snatch one before the end of this year at $2,500. Or, if you are not quite ready: we can make an exception and offer it on a 90 day frugal deal - four $625 instalments. Rebelde Control Tower is a manual wind watch, 44m case size and 22mm between the lugs, in stainless steel. We've sold hundreds of them and they are well recognized for their reliability and robustness. Cheap as chips. Five years guarantee, free delivery.

NH3 project update

 

Finally, we can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  The mainplates and bridges have been manufactured, finished, and gold plated. Most screws are done as well. Dial and hands are still in progress but we have 10 sets already for assembly. And as I type this, the first 3 watches are completed, adjusted and tested, ready to go. Assuming no major interruptions, the batch of 25 pieces should be completed by the end of December. I am very pleased that we can offer more than we've promised. We are proud of the titanium guilloche dial and titanium hands - all manufactured in house.  And as a final touch to our 'manufactured in Australia' watch, the NH3 comes in an Australian Silky Oak box, hand made by woodsmith, David Deambrogio from Victoria. Like NH3, no two boxes are identical.

We are not taking orders for this batch since all pieces have been spoken for. However, if you are interested in NH3 feel free to send us an email and we'll keep it on file, just in case. Overall, 2021 has been a tough year. Thanks to COVID, Andrew and Michael have been out of action for 93 days. Delayed shipments, disruptions in supply chain and an inability to travel overseas made the project significantly more difficult. Yet thanks to your feedback and support, we are pleased with the end result.  Here is a link to a short Insta video of the first NH3 ready for delivery: https://www.instagram.com/p/CWpap_apF9S/

Our big day out, courtesy of Seiko

 

On the weekend we had a very special opportunity to attend the Supercars Supersprint event at the Sydney Motorsport Park, courtesy of Seiko. If you are a Supercars fan, or you have been following along with Seiko’s happenings, then you will know that Seiko has become a brand sponsor for the 2021 Supercars season. Sponsoring the team 18 Irwin racing car, driven by none other than Mark ‘Frosty’ Winterbottom. Being a big supporter of all things Seiko, we were very excited to see and be apart of one of their biggest initiatives to support Australian sport. Yuki Suganuma - Managing Director of Seiko Australia - said earlier in the year "Seiko has been a supporter of some of the world's biggest sporting events and occasions and we are excited to be joining one of the leading categories of global motorsport,"

We were invited inside the Team 18 garage where we were met by team manager Steve Henderson. He showed us their operations and most importantly, their cars. We were taken back at just how advanced these race machines were, as well as all the engineering and preparation that went into getting one race ready.

We were also invited out onto the grid before the race to see all the Supercars lined up, and watch Mark Winterbottom prepare. Although nothing could prepare us for just how loud and mighty these racing machines were when they got fired up - absolutely incredible!

Seiko's support of the Supercars boils down to a very simple reason for them, with Mr Suganuma stating, "We are excited to bring Seiko 5 to the world of Supercars. Reliability, durability and performance are critical in both the world of Supercars and in every Seiko 5 Sports timepiece." It is very exciting to see Seiko get involved in and support local initiatives here in Australia, especially one that values engineering, accuracy and build quality - much like their own series of watches. We thank Seiko Australia for their kind invite, as well as Team 18 for welcoming us into their garage and showing us their behind the scenes operations. We look forward to following along and supporting the rest of the Irwin racing team's season, and also to seeing more super cool Seiko 5 releases!