Tuesday, February 7, 2023

The Seiko 'Star Taker'

 

The long anticipated 'new 62MAS' is here. Freshly arrived from Japan, this is possibly the most exciting watch of 2023.

But before we go further: this is a limited edition piece with only 1,300 watches delivered to boutiques and hand picked premium Seiko dealers. 

And here are the 5 reasons why you should snatch it.
1. Great diver's story
Introduced in 1965, 62MAS was the first Japanese divers watch. If you are not familiar with it's history, here is the link to follow: https://www.theseikoguy.com/seiko-62mas/

Highly revered and equally highly collectable, this is the kind of watch that any watch collector would want in his collection. And I am not talking just about the very first 1965 issue, but a later modern interpretation as well. 
However, the SLA065J is even more special than its predecessors: it features a unique dial dedicated to an early marine navigation instrument know as an astrolabe. Invented by Greek mathematicians and astronomers, this navigational instrument was in use for centuries, helping seafarers to find their location. Essentially, it was "a handheld model of the universe". Its various functions also make it an elaborate inclinometer and an analog calculation device capable of working out several kinds of problems in astronomy. I just love the marine story, so cleverly integrated in the Seiko dial, hidden to the unsophisticated, yet obvious to the enlightened. For further reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astrolabe
2. The finish is the best you can expect from modern horology. The undistorted mirror finish of Zaratsu coupled with a perfect grain of brush is something rarely seen nowadays even in top end Swiss watches. High class. 

3. SLA065J is now fitted with an 8L35 movement. Again, this calibre is reserved to only the very top Seiko models. Reliable and accurate, decorated and fully repairable. 
4. Made in Japan. Perfect.

5. There is no other watch in this price range that would offer such great value for money. For $4,500 you can't buy even a second hand Omega Seamaster. A brand new 'next generation' Seiko for less than a twenty year old mass-produced ETA watch with aluminium bezel insert? How is this even competition? 

I will leave you with this thought: it's been two and a half years now since I've started selling Seiko watches. Apart from investing in our own manufacturing capabilities and making our own watches, joining the Seiko family was one of the best decisions ever. Seiko is just getting better and better, more exciting, more special. Every time a Swiss megabrand puts their prices up, Seiko gets more room to breathe, to innovate, to offer better value, to be more competitive. To offer YOU a better product and even better service. And make no mistake: it is just a matter of time before Seiko watches will receive the recognition they rightly deserve. Like ours, Seiko's time is yet to come. 

Don't just take my word for it: invest in Seiko and you will have a watch you'll wear with pride and joy for decades. 

SLA065J is priced at $4,500. One watch only.
Case size 41.3mm. Stainless steel case and silicon strap. Sapphire crystal. Blue dial. Automatic movement. Water resistance 200 metres. Limited edition - 1,300 pieces worldwide. 
For more information about SLA065J go to:
https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/prospex/special/1965_savetheocean/index

Making a mark

 

"Nick and Josh you are both truly the finest ambassadors for not only proudly Australian made product but also the finest craftsmanship. Well done." - Glenn Rundell, Master Chairmaker, Victoria.
 


As much as I would like to claim all the credit for myself, the Mark II has been a team effort.

To complete a project of this importance, in any year, would be worth highlighting. To complete it in a year where we've still struggled with COVID for the best part of it, is little miracle worth celebrating.

This year, we lost three staff members. We counted on them. Yet the Mark II has been completed, on time, as promised.

As you followed our progress, you would have realised that the Mark II is not just a slightly better version of our Mark I; it is a watch that challenged us to do our absolute best. To learn. To perfect. To be humble. To invest more. And above all, to work long hours. 

For most of the year, Josh started his work day well before 6 am, and stayed machining well past midnight. I would go to bed, wake up in the middle of the night, tune in to the security camera, only to find him still working. 
We are not smarter than our fellow watchmakers; we just work much harder. And we are proud of it.

Our time is yet to come. We have reached this point thanks to your support. But we will get where we want to be, supported or not. Because watchmaking is a life quest and, as we say, you don't pick watchmaking; watchmaking picks you. 

Ironically, our biggest challenge this year was finding enough time to allocate to the Mark II project. Ultra-precision machining is still not something Australia is known for. And yet, there are a number of industries that require our services: medical, aerospace, optical, quantum computing. These are our customers who, this year, expected a great deal of our machining hours for their projects. 

With each of these customers, we migrated from the prototype stage (making one offs) to the production stage (making multiple parts and assemblies). And please, be assured, these customers are under significant pressure to deliver their final products successfully, and on time. That pressure has also fallen on us. 

Should you invest in the Mark II? Not if you think there is a better Australian-made watch out there. Or a more perfect watch by a small, independent watchmaking team, who actually make components in their own workshop. And definitely not if you believe that you can get better customer service elsewhere. 

Our watch is intended for those who appreciate what we can offer, a this point in time, in a country so far away to be of any horological importance at all.

The Mark II is a watch that will make you proud to be an Australian. What price tag can you put on that privilege?

We are here to serve you.

Did someone say macro?

 

No, it isn't a modern painting or a mural. It is the guilloche of our Curl Curl dial as seen under a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) under 100x magnification. The image is taken by Tim Murphy, who works for NewSpec, a microscope specialist.

Note how clean and burr-free our individual cuts are! We are shaving that titanium like cheese. This is testament not just to the shaping of the diamond cutter (which we actually do in-house, remember the slurry?) but also to Kern's hydrostatic guides and the rigidity of the machine itself. I reckon we should turn this image into a wall poster!

The tiny area which looks like the moon's surface is actually a micro-particle-blasted dial surface. Still not impressed? The 100 times magnification of the SEM is actually set to 'low'. 
It won't be long now - as I type this, 45 Curl Curl dials are now completed, and we are assembling MK2. If you are on the list, but haven't received your invoice yet: check your email on Wednesday. 

The Mk2 Curl Curl caseback

 

One of our goals for this year was to start the journey into case manufacturing. Having made the investment in our new Kern 5 axis milling machine, the capability for making larger components from tougher materials opened up.

Case-making is its own profession, its own trade. Just like there are artisans who specialise in dial making, and companies that only manufacture movements, case-making is a discipline that requires a specific skill set, specific know-how and a different kind of attention to detail. To illustrate: dial making is a discipline that is nearly totally focused on the aesthetic qualities of the time display, a small smudge, a discoloration, a scratch can all render a dial useless. From a functional perspective, however, a dial is a flat disk with some holes in it! The mechanical demands on a dial are very small, there isn't much that can go wrong, and if something does go wrong, the overall risk to the watch is very low.

A case on the other hand has those priorities reversed! Anyone who wears a watch daily knows that the "factory finish" lasts about all of 2 minutes, but the "factory fit" of a watch case should last a lifetime! The role of watch-case components, first and foremost is for PROTECTION. So, when going down the rabbit hole of case manufacturing, this was the primary goal for us. Form, aesthetics, finish are all secondary- still important, but no watch collector would ever want a beautiful, perfectly finished case that welcomes water to readily flow inside!

So, with that small introduction, here is the process of how we have been manufacturing the caseback for the MK2 Curl Curl.

Step 1. Raw material

Stainless steel 316 blanks are turned on a CNC lathe. This step is quite important as it establishes solid datums/references for all the subsequent machining operations, but also removes many of the internal stresses in the material from the raw, rolled state.
Step 2. Internal caseback machining

The blank is then held in our Micro HD and the inside of the caseback is roughed out. This is actually the most important step in the manufacturing process as the sealing surfaces for the o-rings and the threads are made in this operation. These are the two areas of the case that provide all of the mechanical functionality. If the threads are too tight or loose, then the caseback is either impossible to install onto the mid-case, or the threads are not fully engaged which can present issues with cross threading, and the overall longevity of the case. Further, if the sealing surface (the area that compresses and seals against the o-ring) is not flat enough, or if the surface finish is too rough, the watch simply won't be waterproof!
Step 3. Service table engraving

This feature is something we are really proud of- the service table. Many watchmakers scribe their initials and the service date into the back of the watch, this acts as the best form of solid paperwork for the service history of the watch! Providing a little table for watchmakers to scribe the date and their initials is a little nod to the future.
Step 4. External caseback machining

In this step, the outside of the caseback is milled and engraved. My favourite part about this step is the stylised Curl Curl waves pattern that we engrave on the back-side! This is the same pattern that is on the dial of the MK2, but is zoomed in.
Step 5. Glass bead blasting and graining

After machining, the caseback is blasted with extremely fine glass beads that provide a very even, matte finish over the entire surface. To provide contrast to the Curl Curl waves pattern, the caseback is then grained by hand on an abrasive paper adhered to a granite surface plate.
Step 6. Water pressure testing

After all these steps, the most crucial QC step is water pressure testing!
Getting into case manufacturing is an important step towards our fully in-house manufactured NH watch. In the near future, we will be able to design and machine a case of any shape, size or profile, from literally any material. The capability is already here, but before we can embark on this exciting journey, we need more human hands - in-house trained technicians and machinists. This is our biggest challenge: people willing to work, to be trained and to become part of an exciting project.

As always, optimistically, looking ahead!

Room for expansion? Plenty! The logical step would be an investment in a Swiss-made, Swiss grade case polishing and finishing CNC machine. Like the one made by Crevosier SA. Here is a short video of this machine in action, finishing Richard Mille cases:

https://youtu.be/eClSAmqpTEM

I have seen this very machine in action, in Geneva; and I can't tell you what is more impressive, the technology behind the machine, polishing action or the finished product. Absolute cutting edge.

How much? It's a scary number. Let me put it this way: if we sell the entire stock of watches we have currently listed on our website, we will just make it. And then we would still have to sell all our Seiko just to pay GST on import. LOL.

As they say, Rome wasn't built in a day. Our time is yet to come... one step at a time!

Turning into an international affair

 

“Hi Nick,

I'm not an Australian, but I support your goal to create and nurture a future where Australian watchmaking is a viable and thriving community... Best of luck and I hope God blesses you in this endeavour. Sincerely, and with much respect,

Michael W. (a satisfied subscriber) Montana, USA” 


Hi Michael -

Always great to hear from an overseas supporter! Your donation is appreciated. And since you are an American, this is the perfect excuse to mention two guilloche practitioners from your neck of the woods:

Ronald Murphy, a veteran, and Josh Shapiro, a newcomer.

We have a great relationship with Shapiro, so this is not patronizing, on the contrary - Josh is making huge progress in the field of dial making, establishing himself as a true independent American watchmaker.

RGM Watch Company was founded in 1992 by American watchmaker Roland G. Murphy. It started when he was in high school working half a day for a clock company in the cabinet making wood shop. His interest in timepieces grew quickly, and in the early 1980's he enrolled in the Bowman Technical School in Lancaster, PA. In 1986, he furthered his training in Switzerland when he was accepted by WOSTEP. After WOSTEP he was hired to work in product development for Hamilton Watch Co. in Lancaster, PA. and remained there until he started RGM in 1992. As they say, the rest is history.

RGM's specialty is guilloche. Here is a great short video where Ron explains differences between straight line machine and rose engine lathe. An absolute must watch: https://vimeo.com/33538356

Pay attention to Part 2 where he mentions the pattern bars. We have actually made those pattern bars for Josh Shapiro in our workshop which are of his own design, used to create his now famous basket weave pattern.  

Joshua Shapiro, in his own words:

"In 2013, I became captivated by the arcane art of engine-turning after reading George Daniel’s Watchmaking. For three years, I practiced engine-turning and machining, slowly acquiring better equipment and increasing in skill.

In addition to creating dials for others I wanted to leave my own mark on American Horology. The Infinity Series is the manifestation of that goal. A watch that is simple, elegant, timeless, but contributes to the evolution of horology and engine-turning. The complex guilloche or engine-turning of the dial is completely done by hand, in California, using the same techniques masters of the trade have utilized for centuries, A.L. Breguet, Derek Pratt, George Daniels, and Roger Smith."

And while we are on the subject: vintage rose engines are extremely hard to find. Here is an example: Holtzapffel was founded in London by French/German migrant in 1793. It was in business until 1928. During the period of 135 years, Holtzapffel and Co manufactured just over 2000 lathes, but only 15 of them were rose engines.

And out of those 15, only a handful were made specifically for the watchmaking industry. Here is an example of one of the finest (last traded in 2012, for USD $228,000). To call yourself a guardian of such a unique piece of machinery is a rare privilege. Check out the link, you will be fascinated:
https://plumier.org/machines/holtzapffel-no-1636/
Fine Swiss examples rarely appear on the market. I saw one in La Chaux-de-Fonds a few years ago on dealer's display with a sign 'Don't even ask'. The owner told me that he gets offers over one million on a regular basis, but he ‘would rather die than sell it’.

Of course, straight line guilloche machines are simpler and more common, but taking all the above into consideration, we are lucky that we are able to 'rescue' Benzinger’ s machine here in Australia for peanuts, a mere $28,000.

Once again Michael, we thank you for your support - all the way from cold Montana to sunny Sydney.

And yes, the fundraising is turning into an international affair with $500 received from a watch enthusiast and Rebelde ambassador from Switzerland! Humbling indeed. 

At the moment, we are well above the half-way mark, with $15,607 raised by 133 donors. I am yet to thank you all individually, but you do know that we are truly appreciative of your contribution.

Thank you

 As said yesterday, I have no doubt we'll succeed. We are not there yet, but this morning we've passed the 10k mark. Your response was both generous and numerous, with 88 supporters responding to the call. A huge tick of approval for a worthy cause. 


Let me remind you of the obvious: remarkable achievements are always the result of a well-organized group effort. We hail individuality, yet when it matters, we still respond collectively, recognising collaboration, communalism and constructive interdependence. A sign of maturity, the Aussie way.

Today, we are not saving lives, endangered species or helping flood or bush fire victims. We do this every day, in one way or another (paying taxes is the best way to support society!). But to watch enthusiasts invest in the future of Australian home-grown horology, is equally important. Let me explain why.

Watchmaking is not an individualistic activity. If it takes a village to raise a child, then it takes a nation to start a watch business. You can count on one hand the nations both advanced, appreciative and capable of fathering and mothering the horological art of micro engineering. There is not really 'an entry level' to a watch brand: unless all the ingredients are there, the 'watch' just does not happen. Quite frankly, the fact that we even exist as a brand is a miracle in itself. Whether we would be able to produce a watch equal to one made in Switzerland or Japan is yet to be seen, but if we can at least create an environment where watchmaking is possible, then our mission will be accomplished.

Skilful and enthusiastic people are crucial, but with no specialist tools and machinery, there will be no watches.

For that reason, we - and that is all of us - must do our absolute best not to miss the opportunities ahead. Letting watchmaking equipment already imported to Australia go back overseas is simply not an option.

A number of supporters requested additional information about the machine we are 'saving' from being exported. Their is a really wonderful video of the machine in action. Before you click away, a quick intro.

Jochen Benzinger is German guilloche master, often referred to as the only German who mastered guilloche. The video is a documentary of a fellow watchmaker visiting Benziger's atelier, asking the master to make him a guilloche dial. There are numerous machines in the workshop, but the first one used to create an 'opening' for the name plate is a 'straight line guilloche machine'. As Benzinger works on the dial, he explains why this technique is special and why it is so difficult to make a perfect dial.

Now, here is the kicker: the machine currently in Australia is a straight-line guilloche machine, and it was imported directly from Benzinger. A master's machine! In beautiful condition, with unparalleled pedigree. Can we really afford to miss the opportunity?

Here is the link to the video, for your enjoyment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFfLWvwN1Bk

Wednesday, November 30, 2022

Dial printing notes

 

If I had these notes 3 years ago, we could have saved time, money and quite a few sleepless nights. Since I strongly believe that one day, there will be another Australian watchmaking business in need of 'inside knowledge', I am publishing this quick version here, in order to save them time and money.

Unfortunately, there is no shortcut for sleepless nights.

Dial printing (transfer method) is as old as watch dials themselves. The revolution started in the early 1900s when porcelain pocket watch dials were replaced with mass-produced metal sheet dials. With the popularity of wrist watches, printed dials completely replaced all other traditionally manufactured dials.

While the printed dials were used by all watch brands, due to the way watches are manufactured in Switzerland, only a handful of companies specialised in dial making. This is still the case, and to this day, only a select few are in the dial making business, specialising mainly in high value dials.

The journey into dial making starts with a dial printing machine manufacturer. One industry leading company is Teca Print, located in Thayngen, literally on the Swiss / German border. Teca Print dial printing machines are used to make dials for all the top Swiss brands. They also provide all the accessories and paint, as well as the 'know how' training (AUD $1500 per day).
Good luck trying to import Swiss paint into Australia.

Luckily, a suitable dial pad printing paint is already available in Australia. Look for COATES PAD PRINTING INK TP 300. You will also need thinners and hardeners. All supplied by Milford Astor.
WARNING: safety first. Understanding the hazard of dealing with paint and related chemicals is essential.

 A cliché is a metal plate that 'contains' your artwork.  The production of pad printing clichés is highly complex and they are typically manufactured only by pad printing equipment suppliers. We've ordered our first cliché from Switzerland. However, we now have clichés made in Sydney. Eventually, we will have them made 'in house'.
In theory, the pad printing process is straight forward: the ink is applied to the cliché, picked up by a silicone pad, and then transferred to the watch dial. In reality, getting the process to work and then to fine tune it to perfection is an art form. Everything from temperature, humidity, cleanliness, to the exact paint formula, to timing and number of transfers is purely a matter of experimentation until a satisfying result is achieved.
To summarize: the machine, accessories and training come from Switzerland, but all the supplies including local support is available in Australia.
Top Swiss quality dial printing is within reach of an independent watchmaker. However, mastering the technique is challenging and time consuming. Except for a handful of Japanese independents, most other watchmakers are more than happy to outsource dial making to specialists. We are very proud of the fact that our MK2 Curl Curl dial is pad printed in-house and we are already looking into expanding our capabilities in this field in 2023.

It goes without saying that our facility remains open to fellow Australian watchmakers. We have nothing to hide! On the contrary, it would be our pleasure to assist you in your horological project.
We have uploaded a short video to Instagram showing the Teca-Print machine in action. Here is the link, check it out:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck9PM3Ahh6J/

Collecting?

 

"Hi Nick, loving the emails you send out.

I know you're a busy man, but any chance you can tell us subscribers about your personal watch collection—for example, how many you have? Maybe show some rare ones or ones that have an interesting story behind them ?

Cheers,
Wade Leaney"

 
Hi Wade,

Appreciate the question. Let's start with the obvious: watch dealers are pathetic collectors. So are watchmakers. The dealers’ collection consists of unwanted and unsold stock; the watchmakers: of broken, beyond-repair, incomplete and obscure pieces, rarely of any value. Being close to watches and dealing with them daily does not make one a collector. Quite the opposite.

Collecting is a meaningful and laser-focused effort which requires time, money, and patience; something that should be enjoyed outside business hours. (I am typing this reply at 6:05 in the morning—why am I not 'collecting'?). Great collections are built by passionate, sophisticated, and wealthy people who have plenty of time to chase that Holy Grail piece to complete their horological jigsaw puzzle.

I remember a visit to a private watch and clock museum in Switzerland, where I had the privilege of meeting with a third or fourth-generation collector, who is still building and expanding his family’s collection. A true multi-generational project. The stories about acquisitions, bidding wars, travels and relationships required to obtain those unique pieces were even more fascinating than the watches themselves. Still vividly remembered: a story of a Breguet pocket watch, which started life as a pair. The first was bought by his grandfather, the second one two generations later, reunited at a great cost—“We ended up taking a massive bridging loan, disposing of some pieces in order to complete the transaction”.  Blood, sweat and sacrifices. There are many thousands of passionate collectors out there who have amassed large collections, on almost any horological subject you can think of.  And my personal reward comes from the fact that, in a few cases, I was the one who found and provided that very special piece they were longing for. So, in a way, there is a little of “me” in their life collection, which is kind of cool.

At the end of the day, we all have our personal reasons to buy, collect, horde, pile up and amass. My reason is the fear of being judged as stupid. There is no doubt that shortly after I'm gone, someone will open my small deposit box, and curiously and patiently examine its contents. What they find in that box is going to be my final message to the world. Are they going to be amazed to discover two or three sophisticated pieces of real horological value and importance, or will they just find a box full of junk? Will they proclaim, “Wow, what a great find!” or “I can’t believe he sold tens of thousands of watches, but foolishly failed to preserve and pass on a single piece of any beauty, merit or importance.” I am not at all fearful of dying anonymously; I am fearful of dying and then forever being remembered as a fool who wasted his time and missed his opportunity to be someone worth remembering.

Am I happy with my current collection? Quite frankly, yes. Of course, I've missed countless opportunities, but I’ve still managed to hide away a piece or two worth preserving and guarding for the next generation. In particular, a certain New Zealand Railway pocket watch, as well as an important ships chronometer by a prominent maker. Both pieces should be held onto, and eventually donated to a museum, not sold. If interested, the story is here: http://nickhacko.blogspot.com/2019/07/sometimes-best-deals-are-those-that.html

When it comes to wristwatches, it’s the beauty of the mechanism and the story behind the model that matters. Everything else—condition included—is less relevant. Funnily enough, I am far more tolerant toward imperfections in my own pieces than those offered for sale. In other words, most of my vintage watches are probably a 6/10, but they have plenty of character and stories to tell.

Are we running out of stock worth collecting? Not really. Only a couple of weeks ago, there was a spectacular Zenith triple calendar moon on offer here, which was quickly snatched by a collector. I was even able to source one more, identical, for another collector which is rather unusual. I would gladly have kept either—or both—to add to my collection. Those El Primeros are simply superb pieces, which easily outshine any $100K Patek. Beyond the obvious horological value and beauty, there is one important fact that makes
them special: for the past 30 years, despite all new releases, and millions invested in marketing, Zenith failed to make a better El Primero than the original one. And they probably never will.

If I may—and this is hardly a secret to most subscribers—I have a weak spot for Seiko railway pocket watches. The plan is, to eventually, have one from every manufacturing year, from the 1930s to today. On my last count, there were more than 200 in the collection, a pile in need of classification, labelling, overhaul, and proper storage. I keep a “cheat sheet” on the wall, to remind myself that some years are still missing. 1949-51 were “dry years”, as well as 1971. Yet there is an abundance of stock from the 1950s and 60s. The first quartz model 38RW was only produced for 2 years (1978-1980) and it is an extremely hard one to find. Back in 1978, it sold for over $600 and cost more than a brand-new Rolex Submariner 5513! I am a proud owner of one, which is sealed in a plastic bag prominently marked “DO NOT SELL THIS ONE”. So, my Seiko railway pocket watches are still a work in progress. Again, if I drop dead tomorrow, they should be passed on to a new guardian, rather than a high bidder.

Whether orderly, messy, pedantic, sophisticated, obnoxious, public, private, over the top or shy and modest, our watch collection is nothing more or less than our own reflection in a mirror of time. 

Happy collecting,
Nick Hacko
Watches currently offered for sale can be found here: 
http://clockmaker.com.au/wfs1.html