Thursday, September 7, 2023

Five generations of WOLF

 

If there ever was a story of business longevity in the ever changing niche of luxury goods, then it has to be the story of the Wolf family. Founded on the motto that 'ones prized possessions must be stored in a fine quality case' German silversmith Philip Wolf I started a business with the goal to provide the retailers with the finest jewellery and silverware cases possible.
The year was 1834. Five generations later, Wolf is still a family business run with the same passion, focused on the same goal.

Like you, I have heard of WOLF watch winders, but until recently, for some reason, I was under the impression that 'founded in 1834' was just WOLF's marketing ploy. After all, wrist watches became popular only in the 1920s, and the first watch winders hit the market almost 160 years later! I've failed to put two and two together; that the WOLF people, the case makers, and the watch winder makers, are actually the same company!

Of course, the confusion ends the moment you lay your hand down on a finely made WOLF winder realising that you are dealing with craftsman who have been making fine products for generations.

But before we go any further: as a long standing subscriber to this newsletter, you are now puzzled why in the world I am even talking about watch winders. Aren't winders nothing more than a cynical invention of the devil himself, intended to ruin your finely crafted mechanical watches, by virtue of over winding, causing excessive wear and tear, rendering them useless? At least, wasn't that my mantra for at least a decade, if not longer?

You are right. While I was probably the first person to sell watch winders in Sydney - if not in Australia - and while I've sold literally truckloads of winders, about ten years ago I had enough of them. Watch winders are bulky, fragile and heavy. Shipping them around Australia was a challenge. Storing them in our city office was a nightmare. And quite frankly, I got tired of explaining the obvious: don't let your watch sit on a winder, for months on end; there is no real benefit in that, and especially not in placing all of your watches on winders, purely for the sake of creating some circus act to impress your visitors, in a clownish act of fake sophistication.

All these arguments stand. They are all valid. A watch winder is a wonderful invention when consumed properly, in moderation. Here is a practical example of a responsible use: you have two watches; you wear one during the week, and other on weekends only. There is nothing wrong with having one on the winder, while other is worn on the wrist. Or, you have a dozen watches, place them on the winder, but don't spin them around. It's simple as that.

As you can see, I am back into watch winders. I am sick of people asking "when are you going to stock winders?" I am equally unhappy about my competition selling winders while I sit idle, guarding some moral ground, which quite frankly, should not be my business. If I'm to stock and sell the devil's toy, I may as well sell you probably the best one on the market - the WOLF. Use it responsibly, have fun. If your heart craves luxury - go WOLF.

NOTE: the 16 winders listed below are just a snippet from the vast WOLF range. If you need any other model / colour / size, email us for more options.
1. Green Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
2. Orange Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
3. Tutti Frutti Blue Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
4. Navy Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
5. Black Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
6. WM Brown Single Watch Winder
The wm brown single winder is hand crafted in a classic smooth brown leather with negroni tweed lining.

Price: $715
7. Cortica Single Watch Winder
Hand made from sustainably grown Portuguese cork.

Price: $815
8. The Rocket: The world’s smallest travel watch winder
Small enough to cradle in the palm of your hand, operate seamlessly inside any hotel safe, pop into your overnight hold-all or pack for an extended holiday away.

Price: $975
9. Copper Axis Single Watch Winder

Price: $1,165
10. Navy Cub Double Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $1,275
11. Black Cub Double Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $1,275
12. Black British Racing Single Watch Winder

Price: $1,285
13. Green British Racing Single Watch Winder With Storage

Price: $1,335
14. Copper Axis Double Watch Winder With Storage

Price: $2,295
15. Black British Racing Triple Watch Winder with Storage 

Price: $3,735
16. Green British Racing 6 Piece Watch Winder

Price: $6,125

Update from the workshop: Screw them

In June this year Dad and I went to the EPHJ fair in Switzerland.

The fair is home to all the suppliers to the watch industry. Contract manufacturers, service providers, machinery sellers, tool salespeople... the list goes on.

This was the first time Dad and I had gone to EPHJ since before COVID, and in that time our in-house capabilities have grown a lot, we can now make around 85% of the movement of the watch, as well as the dial, hands, case and buckles!

Nonetheless, fairs like these are crucial for finding partners who can help manufacture/provide parts that are either too tricky for us to handle, or provide services that we don't have in-house - PVD coating for example. On our 2nd day at the fair I split off from Dad, we decided to tackle the 700 strong exhibitors separately, hoping that we could divide and conquer. Walking past the rows and rows of suppliers, one specific stall caught my eye - they specialised in manufacturing screws. Screws in watchmaking are surprisingly very challenging to make. They require many different operations - starting from sourcing the correct material, turning/machining the screw, heat treating the screw to get the material hard, tempering to reduce it's brittleness, polishing the screw to remove the heat treatment discoloration as well as for decorative reasons, storing the screw in proper anti-rusting agents, and finally handling it without damaging. Since introducing the NH1 in 2019 we have been making nearly all the screws in our NH series watches. Very few, if any people manufacture screws in-house. And for good reason! The steps mentioned above are extremely time consuming, and frankly do not present a large aesthetic improvement to the watch, unless you know the backstory of their manufacture...
Walking past this particular watch-screw-manufacturing specialist, I stopped and started chatting. I showed them the watch that we make, and although they seemed interested, they were keen to talk business. I told them that we manufacture some of our screws, but there is one specific screw that is a big challenge for us to make. It's time consuming and we have a high failure rate, it's not impossible, but it would help alot if we could get the absolute top-of-the-field experts to give us a hand. They seemed ready for the challenge, and asked to see a technical drawing. I showed them the screw in my hand, and the drawing next to it. The screw has a M0.6 thread, and is about 1mm in total length, thread and head together. The pitch of the thread is so fine that it almost gets lost in the space between the lines of your fingerprints. In return, they showed me some screws of a similar size, and said that they could comfortably manufacture. Great, progress!

The next, and most important question. Price, and lead time.
"About 10-12 CHF per screw, and it will take us about 6 months to complete the order.... of 5000 pieces..."

The 12CHF per screw wasn't a terrible price. It was actually easy to swallow. But as they kept talking my heart kept dropping. For a small team like ours, 6 months is a nonstarter, our projects can't function on lead times that long... but the final nail in the coffin was the minimum order. 5000 pieces. This M0.6 screw is used once per watch. It holds down the click spring in the bridge of our NH2, NH3, and now soon to come NH55. 5000 screws would be enough, not only for my generation, but probably for 3 generations of Hacko watchmakers. Mission failed. With my head hung low and feet dragging I kept moving through the rest of the exhibitors at the fair. June 2023.

Thankfully, the pain didn't last long. Today I'm holding 20 or so finished M0.6 screws that are used in our soon to come NH55's. All made in-house. September 2023.
Sometimes you need a kick in the bum. It might challenging, and you might cry along the way - but the journey for us to make these screws in-house is a line in the sand. It's a stake in the ground. It's a crucial, and non-negotiable chapter in our book titled independent watchmaking in Australia.

Josh