Wednesday, October 19, 2022

What is an Omega "Moonwatch" look-alike and why should you stay away from it?

 

Introduced in 1988, the Speedmaster Reduced Ref 3510.50 was offered as the smaller and cheaper version of the Moonwatch. The case size was 39mm and unlike the 'difficult to manually wind Speedy' the reduced was an automatic watch.

The dial layout was not a carbon copy of the original, but for most buyers, it was close enough.
What really bode well for it: it was a smaller, more compact watch suitable for a smaller wrist. Omega released and sold hundreds of thousands of them.

Here are my 5 reasons why you should NOT invest in one:

1. It is overpriced
We use to sell them for $2,000. Then price went to $2,200 and stayed there for a number of years.
Then it jumped to $3,000. Nowadays you could see them on Chrono 24 advertised for close to $5,000!
This is just ridiculous. For $5,000 you can get a much better watch. Much, much better!

2. It is not waterproof
Quite frankly, it was barely waterproof even back in 1988. Thirty or so years later, wearing a reduced in the shower -or even washing your hands - is asking for trouble. A vintage reduced is not suitable for any water related activities. Especially a watch with no recent service history.

3. It is complex to repair
The Speedmaster reduced is powered by a modular calibre Omega 1140 (later upgraded to 1141 and 1143). Basically, it is an ETA 'sandwich' with the time module and chrono module joined together. A watchmakers nightmare! A complete overhaul on a reduced is more time consuming, more expensive and more complex than on any manual wind moonwatch. While parts are still plentiful, watchmakers capable of servicing modular calibres are hard to find. Your local watchmaker (even a good one!) would most likely stuff it up - or, if he is honest and smart - avoid the job in the first place. We can service it in our workshop - but this is never fun and always expensive.

4. The casing components are flimsy
Especially the pushers, which now tend to fall off, leak or simply stop functioning altogether. Unlike the internal parts, external parts are hard to source. A damaged pusher or scratched bezel will set you back big time.

5. It is a 'fake watch'
By fake I mean fake looking watch. If you really want a Moonwatch then go for an original manual wind 42mm. If you can't handle that size, go for a smaller watch but of different design. In most cases, 
 the reduced is sold to total novice watch enthusiasts who (in the past) were attracted to the look of a moon watch, but did not want to pay the price. With the reduced, there is no honeymoon; the moment you put it next to the 'real deal' the marriage is over.

Is there an alternative to a Speedmaster 3510.50 reduced?
If you really want the same look in a smaller case, and automatic winding is a must then at least, go for a 3593.50, the upgraded version released in 2006. While this is still an ETA 2892 with a sandwich chronograph module by Dubois-Depraz, the reduced 2.0 is more waterproof and comes with a sapphire crystal. Still expensive to repair and crazy overpriced.

A much better alternative would be any other Omega chronograph Speedmaster fitted with a Valjoux 7750 mechanism. The 7750 is not regarded as a 'horological beauty' - quite the opposite - but at least, it is easy to repair and fairly issue-free. Most importantly, you won't be hit by the "moonwatch tax". There are plenty of options for dial colour, and water resistance is fairly decent If you look after it, it will serve you well for years to come.

And if you do have a speedy reduced, and are thinking of selling it: get rid of it now, thank me later. (No I don't want it!)              

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