Thursday, March 21, 2013

The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo

"Nick, Gordon here. I am your colleague, a watch valuer. You've kindly helped me couple of times last year and I wonder if I can pick your brain one more time?"

"I am listening, Gordon".

"Nick, I got two watches here, both Rolex. Can you tell me what do I need to look for to make sure they are original?"

"Gordon, I don't think I can help you with that, sorry."

"Oh Nick, don't be like that - I know you can. There is a number on a bracelet..."

"Mate, stop it right there. I really can't help. You know it is impossible to tell the fake from genuine based on verbal description. It's also highly unethical and unprofessional, and frankly quite irresponsible to value items without physical inspection!"

"Yes I know you are right, but please get me out of trouble just one more time."

"If you want me to help you, bring the watches over and I'll help you. But remember, I do charge $95 for a valuation."

"Nick, I only charge $25. Unlike yours, my customers are crap."

"No Gordon, it's your valuations that are crap. Now get of your backside and do something about it for the sake of your own reputation."

"Nick, quite frankly, I am disappointed with your attitude. I won't bother you again."

Feeding lazy valuers is like feeding Sulphur crested cockatoos. They chew on your TV coax cable, and you clean up the mess.


Watercolour by TanyaH

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

"Watch fishing" at Lake Geneva

Many of divers watch manufacturers make bold claims about the depths you can dive to with their product strapped to your wrist, but few ever empirically test their product in the field.

Back in the 60’s some of the more serious timepiece manufacturers could often be seen on small boats on the lakes of Switzerland (and even bobbing on the oceans!) with a watch firmly attached to a long piece of stout string, graduated in meters. The ‘tester’ payed out the rope to the set depth and then cautiously pulled it back in to see if the watch was still intact. It sounds bizarre, but since few humans dived to any real depths at the time many manufacturers simply didn’t bother testing their depth claims, and in fact most watches of the era didn’t state a depth rating. Rolex were one of the few exceptions to this, and back then the Submariner was a 200m watch.


Watercolour by TanyaH

By the end of the 1960’s not only were these brave souls going deeper under water, but also staying under for longer due to improvements in technology. Those who spent their professional lives under the waves began to demand a better tested product as their life depended on keeping the nasty elements of their work environment on the outside of their timepiece. To accommodate this requirement, watch companies invented laboratory testing rigs to pressurise watches to check their sealing at depth. Omega led the way with the first pressurised testing machines and other assorted equipment. Serious brands also engaged the services of real divers to test their watches in the oceans, and the first professional dive watches were born like the Omega PloProf, developed with Jacques Cousteau, and the Rolex Seadweller which was developed with COMEX.

Modern high end watches are built using CNC machinery. They have high quality materials and good engineering. This means that using the test equipment in the lab brands can prove that their models will withstand serious pressure without failing. However, these days very few brands actually get their product wet during testing, after all its not really going to be much fun sending a diver to anything over a few hundred meters due to the dangers involved and the time it would take to come back to the surface to avoid the bends.

Back in 2006, this didn’t stop Pol Palacios, the Sea-Dweller owner - who also happened to be an oil company employee - to test the depth rating of his watch with his ROV (Remotely Operated Vehicle). Pol first checked with Rolex who assured him that each Seadweller is pressurised at the factory to 130bar which equates to 1300m, so theoretically he should be safe. We all know the sayings about famous last words though...

Confident in the product, he carefully strapped his pride and joy to his work vehicle and slowly sent the pair off into the briny deep. After a very gentle descent (so as not to ‘rock the boat’ and lose the watch) the ROV reached an indicated 1200 meters. This equaled a pressure on the Rolex of 122 kilograms per square centimetre. Of course this was only half of the story. The watch had reached 1200m without issue, but now it needed to make it back to the surface in one piece...

After another gentle (but no less nail-biting) cruise the ROV breached the surface and was hauled aboard. Pol rushed over to check his watch and found that it was still ticking away on time, having kept the elements firmly at bay. Fantastic!

Testing and confirming Rolex’s claim that the Sea-Dweller was good to 1200m was a superb exercise but of course this is probably the only Seadweller that will ever visit that depth; unless one falls off the wrist of a sailor over somewhere like the Mariana trench, and even then no one will witness if there is any implosion!

The simple truth is that these days we really don’t see many Rolex Sea-Dwellers. While they were a current model they were reasonably plentiful, but since they were replaced by the new DeepSea model we have increasingly struggled to find them in the condition we want, as (as usual) collectors have been grabbing and holding onto them.

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

1935. Durban Rolex

A couple of years ago a watch came in as part of a modest estate sale. It was rectangular shaped, with a steel case, and signed "Rolex" on the dial. Not a model I've seen before - so I decided to examine it closely at some later stage.

Going through bits and pieces today, I've "found" it again. It turned out as a perfect candidate for a "show and tell" segment of my blog.

The first question one has to ask when examining a vintage piece is one related to originality. Is the watch made by the maker who signed the dial? Is it completely original or a well put-together fake? Has it been restored at some point in time and did the restorer use components which are original or aftermarket?

Obviously this requires serious detective work and especially so with models not previously handled. With this particular watch, I had a few concerns.

The dial was definitely an original one, a typical 1930s style. However the "Rolex" writing was slightly too bold for my taste.

The case back was signed RWC Ltd which stands for Rolex Watch Company. However, the absence of usual markings (like for example, "25 world records") was another puzzling detail. But the worst of all was the movement itself: it was completely blank with no markings, calibre numbers, serial numbers or anything that would associate it with Rolex company.

At best, the watch looked like a well put-together piece, made to deceive.

But then again, who would fake a rather modest timepiece which even if all-original could not be sold for more than a few hundred dollars? And most importantly, if the watch was a fake, why did the scammer not engrave the mechanism with the word "Rolex"? After all, this is what an untrained eye is looking for - a definitive and convincing 'proof' of originality.

There was yet another possibility: that the genuine Rolex dial was at some point in time attached to an unknown, generic movement, or, even worse, that a completely anonymous watch would have the word "Rolex" written on it (and case back stamped with RWC) - which would be the worst scenario of all.

Obviously, in order to solve the mystery, I needed to dig deeper - to do more research and pull the mechanism apart.

The first evidence that the watch is a genuine piece came after removing the dial and hands. There, on the main plate was a nicely engraved "Rolex Geneve".

Not only is the engraving identical in shape and size to many I've seen before, but it was partially oxidized, to the same degree as the rest of the movement - which was proof that it has not been engraved at some later stage. This was good news indeed.

However, it was still puzzling why this particular movement had no serial numbers nor Rolex calibre number. It was time to pull out from my cabinet a book of old Swiss movements catalogue from 1954

While the identification took a bit of time, I was able to determine that the mechanism was actually manufactured by Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF). And more precisely, it was calibre FHF 29.

FHF is one of the oldest and largest Swiss movement manufacturers. Rolex used FHF blanks for their export models. For example, Rolex 59 was a modified FHF 30, which, was exported to Canada from 1935-1945.

The movement identification process itself is a unique one, and worth mentioning. Universally, the identification of a movement is based on the mark and number engraved on the back plate, either beneath the dial (like in my case) or beneath the escapement. The Swiss movement catalogue from 1954 provides further help: "If there is no mark or number engraved on the dial-side of the plate, identification is performed in the following way: the 3 setting parts exposed on the dial side of the plate are the so called "fingerprints" of a movement. In order to facilitate identification, each movement is shown with its setting parts in EXACT SIZE."

In other words, by placing those 3 setting parts (setting lever, cover plate and yoke) over the hundreds of images in the catalogue, one could identify the actual movement maker and calibre! Not an easy task! And my watch was an export model too: the dial was signed both "Rolex" and "Randles Durban". The Randles were South African jewellers who sold Rolex watches.

After the Great Depression, watch importers have done their best to keep the cost of imported watches as low as possible. And back then, Rolex was just another struggling Swiss maker. For that reason, some Rolex (modified FHF) movements were cased in the country of destination. Compared to later models or those sold in Europe, overseas cases looked far less elaborate, thinner and even less dust-proof. Rarely, they were signed with anything but RWC.

Thanks to Google, I discovered that for a short period of time, Randles from Durban sold other Rolex models, including chronographs. Unfortunately, not many watches survived to this day.

With all three crucial watch components examined and researched (watch dial, case, and mechanism), I was able to conclude that this Durban Rolex is definitely a 100% original and unaltered piece. The fact that the watch itself cannot be found in any Rolex reference books I have in my library just proves once again that our knowledge and understanding of Rolex manufacturing history is far from definite. This is especially the case with lesser popular models from the 1930s which are not sought after by Rolex collectors.

The next step was to overhaul the movement (what else one can do when movement is already in pieces!).

After assembly and lubrication - and some minor adjustment - the watch proved itself as reasonably good timekeeper. Not bad for an 80 year old timepiece!

A truck load of Rolex GMT Masters

Chapter IV

(Warm greetings omitted by sender)

"You know....I used to look at your e-mails and think...wow...these prices are a bit high...must be because of the Australian dollar...but now with the AD on par with the US dollar, I have just put you squarely into the column of Rolex reseller criminals...Selling a used Rolex GMT Master II that cost $2500 new for $8k just has to be criminal... especially when it can be had for between $3-5K almost anywhere else...I guess the Australians aren't as bright as I thought... Please remove me from your distribution list, the entertainment value of your prices and hyping of common watches has weened...

Regards, Jessie"

(Spellchecked by recipient)

Dear Jessie,

I have forwarded your email to my book keeper Wendy. Man, she needs to get a life!

Wendy is such a pain in a bum - last year I lost a receipt for $4.50 (noodle bar in Cabramatta) and she simply can't get over it. I now spend most of my Mondays typing from a closet, sharing a cubicle with shady Cyprian solicitor. "Niiickyyy, you still owe me that receipt mate" yells Wendy every Monday under the door.

And look at you Jessie - so causal with figures, so relaxed with numbers, so easy going with facts! Not a pinch of guilt. Rounding prices to three zeros makes Harvey Norman's $9.99 look like a bad joke. What a talent Jessie! What style!

But Jessie, as much as I would love to, I have no time to dwell over your gift, nor have I time to unsubscribe you - so I'll go straight with what I believe is equally magical stroke of genius: I am willing to extend my hand of friendship and business partnership over the Pacific, from a colonial city of Sydney to financial metropolis of Maurepas Swamp, Louisiana.

You and me Jessie, will be the Bonnie and Clyde of pre-owned Rolex market!

Here is what we are going to do (and I am spelling this out in detail just for the sake of slow Aussie subscribers who are not good with maths, or hyper excited with numbers, like my book keeper Wendy):

I am going to order a truck load of GMT Master II from your supplier in Maurepas Swamp, LA. The cheap examples in so-and-so condition will do us just fine (remember- we are selling them to dumb Aussies!) When placing the order, please remind your guys that a GMT II only cost $750 in 1981. Taking in account the overall condition, recession in USA and sizable volume of our initial order,we can expect further 30% volume discount. What a heck – let’s ask for 50%. After rounding the figures, that would be exactly $250 a piece.

I guarantee you - and let me repeat this one more time - I GUARANTEE YOU JESSIE- we are going sell that darn load of GMT Masters in no time for a $3999 a pop. I swear I'll make that $3,974.71 just to see the sweet tears of joy rolling down Wendy's plump cheeks.

Would the 40-60 split work for you Jessie? With all due respect, I am the one who has the newsletter and needs to deal with bloody subscribers!

If you think this is no way possible - then please rest assured it's DONE DEAL because I've just got thumb up and a nod of approval from Dimitrios the solicitor (who himself is doing a killing importing potatoes, Pateks and pre-loved Porsches from Nigeria).

Awaiting your prompt reply,

Nick

PS Please pass my kindest regards to Troy Landry and Landry boys. Man, they are so HOT here!


Watercolour by TanyaH

Monday, March 18, 2013

From Hippasos to Patek: The Golden Ellipse Part 2

For those who love to see the mechanisms, here is the Golden Ellipse Ref. 3738.

The unique feature of the movement is an offset micro rotor with solid 22k gold rotor on a ball bearing. The Golden Ellipse is a fascinating example of micro engineering.

Movement Cal. 240 is stamped with the Geneva quality mark, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, Gyromax balance adjusted for heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring.

From Hippasos to Patek: The Golden Ellipse

On today's offer we have a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse in 18K yellow gold from the 1980s.

If you are tempted to jump and exclaim: "This has to be the ugliest watch ever!" then you are missing the most important thing about this Patek - and most likely a lot about watches in general.

Since such a strong sentiment and aesthetic assessment would only come from a forty-something-year old, allow me to put things in perspective.

Thirty years ago, you would have been a ten year old kid. The only thing you could think of was how to skip school and spend a day with your mates surfing at Cronulla. Hoping on the train with a Vegemite sandwich in your pocket and a surfboard under one arm, spending the day with Gary and Jimmy was the best thing in the world.

Yet on that very same day in 1983, at the very same time, the original owner of the said Patek Philippe watch was on a Qantas flight to Switzerland to buy his second Patek from the Gubelin shop in Geneva.

A handsome, tall, markant forty-years young Aussie then spent a couple of weeks at Saint Moritz. During the day, he was skiing some of the crispiest slopes and enjoying the mesmerizing view from Corviglia. At night, a glass of fruity and spicy Swiss merlot reflected the image of a Golden Ellipse on his wrist illuminated by flames from a log fire.

Now, I am not saying that your Cronulla day trip was anything less memorable or exciting then his $30K Patek trip to Gubelin. I am just pointing out one very painful fact: your world and his world are slightly different. You judging his watch would be equally inappropriate as him saying that a foamy surfboard from K-Mart was the ugliest board ever. Not to mention the 30 year age difference, which in itself calls for utmost RESPECT.

In some way, the mere fact that you now have an opportunity to strap the Golden Ellipse to YOUR wrist and treasure for the next couple of decades a Patek that could tell you more stories then you can imagine (if you only care to listen to it!)- is a small miracle in itself.

Of course, you too can jump on the plane today and visit the very same Gubelin store in Geneva. But as handsome, tall and charming as you may be, it is highly unlikely that anyone in Gubelin would know you by your first name. Most likely, you will be asked to step aside and join the queue of equally charming but far more enthusiastic Chinese customers.

That's life - so make the most of it. Make your mark, have fun, enjoy. But don't judge, please.

Sunday, March 17, 2013

No one does Art deco like JLC!

True Art Deco - Only JLC can do this!

There are three things you should know about the Jaeger Le Coultre Reverso:

1. No one does ladies watches like Jaeger Le Coultre. Many brands produce watches that are attractive, smaller sized and often studded with precious stones, but none are as feminine as the timepieces produced by JLC. They say 'The devil is in the detail', and that holds very true with ladies watches. We have become used to larger and chunky watches that are good looking, but these lack the fine detail and femininity of a Reverso, which has many delicate finishes that work beautifully on the wrists of elegant ladies.

2. Plenty of watchmakers can do 'pretty', but JLC does pretty alongside top class engineering. There are very few watches out there that are different enough to be instantly recognisable to the layman. JLC achieved this feat as the slide and flip mechanism that was created originally to keep the watch glass safe from everyday knocks. This 'slide and flip' mechanism is an elegant design, perfectly executed in miniature and built to last the lifetime of the timepiece.

3. How can you create an art deco watch if you weren't there? Plenty of watch makers have created timepieces that are styled to look Art Deco, but in all honesty they pale into insignificance when you put them next to the JLC. The Reverso was designed at a time when Art Deco was actually a style, and this timepiece was created by a real Art Deco designer. There is no substitute for experience.

The Reverso we have for you today is solid 18K yellow gold and studded front and back with diamonds and rubies. The timepiece is delicate and feminine and will suit those looking for a great looking watch that is built to last, without being industrial and clunky.

No one does Art deco like JLC!

Regulator

A regulator is a high precision weight driven clock, fitted with dead beat escapement and with compensate pendulum. It has a unique dial arrangement where the minute hand is located in the center of the dial and the hour and seconds are located above and below the minute hand, vertically aligned. Each hand has its own chapter ring with its own set of markers, ensuring the display remains independent of the other hands.

In clockmaking, the regulator is watchmakers or clockmakers timesource. It is a precise timekeeper, devoid of frivolity; no striking hours, no moonphase, no repeating or other functions. It was the job of these specialised clocks only to keep time in the clockmaker's workshop. Every piece of work completed would be set from this timesource, so it was very important. Regulators kept time within a few seconds per year!

Back at times when clockmaking was a real profession, clockmaker would have to have built his own regulator from scratch. It was his 'final exam' and initiation into trade. A completed and adjusted clock would be then used as a MASTER CLOK in his workshop. The only better clock thank his regulator was the astronomical clock at London observatory !

The workshop regulator was the 'fire you never let go out'. If you lived any distance from the main country time source, you would weekly hop on the train with your best portable timepiece and 'collect the time' from the central timesource then when back home, transpose this to your regulator.

Naturally with the time telling being of a different design than a normal clock dial, a regulator was not popular in a domestic situation - not to mention a 'small' fact that it was out of reach for most. Only wealthy and educated individuals owned a clock or a pocket watch. As literacy was minimal for the masses, telling the time on the local church clock was as close as most came to reading and the regulator dial layout was seen as potentially confusing. Therefore the regulator design remained the Clockmaker's domain.

In more recent years some watchmakers wanting to respect the tradition of the regulator have created watches that emulate the design. While these are not true regulators as such, they are certainly regulator in style. They prove to be interesting watches and something different from the norm, and are not something we see on a regular basis.

The "regulator-style" watch we have for you today is by Oris. Absolutely this is no Patek Philippe and we are not suggesting it is incredibly precise or built by hand. That said it is also not Patek priced and is an honest watch that captures the spirit of the regulator well. The gold plated tonneau case is fitted with a lightly domed sapphire crystal and the watch also has a date function. Note: the hands are not perfect as the luminous material has aged and sadly we have been told that it is not possible to source replacement sets anymore. (Re-lume is still an option!)

While this timepiece is not destined for the wrist of a perfectionist, it would suit the watch lover who understands and enjoys the history of the regulator. And let's face it, how many watches of this style do you see every year? Design wise, you are strapping 400 years of horological history to your wrist with this watch.

Oris Automatic 'regulator':
http://clockmaker.com.au/w/k3448.html

Apollo 15 Speedmaster 35th Anniversary Limited Edition

Apollo 15 Speedmaster 35th Anniversary Limited Edition

Limited Edition Moonwatches based on NASA missions are always in demand. The low number created along with special extra features mean Collectors and those who are after something a little different flock to them. Having collectors buying watches is both good and bad for our business. Collectors do wear watches sparingly and look after them so when we buy from them we can be assured of a good condition timepiece. However, the downside is that they also consume product like a black hole as these watches almost never make it back onto the market as they become ‘part of a collection’. This can lead to some once plentiful timepieces being added to the ‘endangered list’ as the years go on.

Today we have such a watch, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 15 Limited Edition. Based on the evergreen Moonwatch this model is one for those who like their Speedmasters with a little added understated bling. The 18K rose gold bezel, pushers and crown are complimented by the same colour dial accents and hands. The rose gold adds class to this classic, but not at the expense of the clean design as it is subtly done. The case back features a full colour rendition of the Apollo 15 patch as worn by the Astronauts on their suits. This is etched into the sapphire crystal, very cool!

More details at:
http://clockmaker.com.au/w/k3500.html

Omega Museum collection ‘The pilots watch’ - Japanese Edition

In 2001 Omega launched an initiative to resuscitate examples of great design from their extensive back catalogue. These new timepieces took the form of recreations using modern materials. They were lovingly produced in limited numbers to great fanfare. The watches sold worldwide and collectors snapped them up as they offered something different, exciting, and of course ‘rare’.

What many collectors are not aware of is the pull of the certain markets for the Swiss brands. For example you may have seen us list watches that are ‘Japanese market only’ over the years. This is because the watch market in Japan is something that mere mortals like us simply cannot comprehend. It seems that everyone in Japan is a watch collector, and the appetite for new watches there is veracious. A limited edition that is sold worldwide is ‘interesting’, but to really excite Japanese buyers takes a ‘Japan only’ edition. Of course these models are rarer so are more of a challenge for us to locate but you can be sure you will not see another one anytime soon in Australia, as they are rarely seen outside of Japan.

The Pilots watch we are listing today is a Japan Only Edition and was not sold elsewhere. While not a numbered limited edition it is more rarely seen than the Museum Collection Pilot watches.

Being based on the Museum Collection 1938 Pilots watch this model was launched in the mid to late 2000’s with the same three-body solid stainless steel case sized at 40mm. This case has amazing lugs that follow the contour of the wrist making it very comfortable to wear. The case back is precision engraved in bas-relief with the ‘The Pilots Watch’.

It is fitted with a polished, bi-directional bezel that turns the inner graduated disc to move the luminous pointer for aircraft navigation timing (and works equally well for timing your parking meter!). The bezel is almost hidden and most people would not know that it was there compared to something like a divers watch. Only the engraved reeded grip round the edges of the case gives the game away. The luminous pointer moves with the inner scale and the fantastic domed sapphire crystal, so it is amazing that Omega managed to include 50m water resistance; Great engineering!

Rather than the hand wind movement fitted to the original models in the 1930’s this watch is fitted with an Omega automatic chronometer calibre 2200 enjoying a power reserve of 44 Hours

The biggest change for this special version, compared to the Museum Collection 1938 model, is the dial design; most notably with the use of Roman numerals.

Want a cool watch that you won’t see on anyone else’s wrist?

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Time Telling

Just because you can, does not mean you should.
If this is the first law of good design and engineering, then many watchmakers are as guilty as O.J.
Being able to tell the time is not an ability we are born with. Most of us still remember the time when we learnt how to tell it! Yes, we needed someone to teach us how to do it - and to explain to us the meaning of hours, minutes, division of time and relation between the short hand, long hand and twelve numbers. Very quickly we realized that time telling is all about the relative position of clock hands and we were able to 'tell the time' without even understanding how the clock works or how the time flies.
Very quickly, the link between the position of hands and the actual time created a series of mental images deeply 'stored' in our subconscious. Soon, we no longer needed to 'see' the actual numbers or even the minute track because the mere position of two hands was sufficient for very precise time telling.
The link created was a very powerful one - so powerful that with the introduction of digital watches, most watch owners quickly realized that while 9:37 was an accurate time reading, the information was lacking mental picture of "9:37".
The LED display was dry, cold and artificial.
The position of hands on an 'old' clock dial was far more meaningful - it provided more complex information (not only the current time but also the relation between the current time AND some future / past time without any conscious calculation).
In other words, we knew how to tell the time because we were recognizing 'pictures'. On the contrary, LED watches provided no pictures, just a row of numbers which needed conscious effort of translation and calculation.
Very soon, the watch manufacturers realized that something was 'wrong' and what followed was a generation of digital watches which featured both analog (hands) and numerical display.
As the novelty of LED and LCD wore out in the 1980s and 90s, digital display disappeared from the main stream watch market altogether. In other words, we accepted and embraced the accuracy and convenience of 'digital ' watches and happily rejected the inconvenience of mental gymnastics.
If there is one area which best portrays the stubbornness of the human race, then that has to be the area dealing with design of digital watches.
Refusing to accept the 'normal', some designers went into a great deal of trouble to create even more bizarre watches which required even more mental effort to read.
Take this one for example:
What is the time? How fast can you tell it?
If this is not slow enough, then here is another 'clever' design:
Finally, this could be the ultimate 'geek watch'...
the LCD Maze Holographic timepiece:
The manufacturer admits that "initially, telling the time may be challenging, however after some practicing, you will be able to tell the time as easy as you can 'see' any other holographic image." Good luck with that one when trying to catch a bus.
Now, if you really MUST have a digital graphic-display watch then here is one which probably makes more sense than others and requires far less mental effort for our 'pre-digital era' brains:
At least, the designer was honest enough to recognize one simple fact: that more means larger 'pile'. Based on that simple concept, here is the watch:
Of course, you can accuse me of nit-picking, but from a purely engineering aspect this toy is a very inefficient one: to display the time, on average, half of the 'lights' are switched on all the time. What a waste of energy!
So how long did it take you to figure out the time on this baby? Less than 5 seconds? A minute? (That was our office average :-)
As said before, displaying time-related information on the watch dial in a meaningful way is both a conceptual and technical challenge.
For that very reason, from the earliest days of horology, watchmakers have spent years perfecting a seemingly trivial functions.
Here is one example of such an effort: day of the week display.
From a mechanical point, the simplest day display would involve a simple pointer which will 'point' to the current day. The drawback of such a design is a relatively cluttered dial which is not aesthetically pleasing.
Slightly more elaborate - and definitely more eye-pleasing design is where the day appears in a cutout:
Clockmaker.com.au
However this display lacks one important information: it no longer places the current day in relation to other days of the week. In other words, Thursday - or Sunday - is just another day in the week, not a particular day in weekly cycle.
Here is the third design which is not only more intricate, but also mechanically challenging: retrogrades.
Retrogrades means "reverting to an earlier position".
In this case, the day pointer goes from Monday to Sunday, however the transition of the pointer from Sunday to Monday goes in the opposite direction - the hand travels counter clockwise in an instant.
This bi-directional 'jump' function requires additional retrograde mechanism and as such, it is regarded as a horological complication.
Such a display combines all desirable aspects, it is 'true' to watchmaking tradition of skilled makers and places each day in an un-mistakable weekly cycle which then repeats itself in the way we are used to.
In addition, note the perfect silver guilloche dial, delicate print, blued steel hand and the exquisite white gold hour markers - all housed in a timeless tonneau shaped case.
A true watch aficionado and keen student of horology should base his watch choice upon those features, not exclusively on a brand name or price.
By the way, I am sure you have noticed how the watchmaker placed the pointer EXACTLY in the middle of the letter U. Attention to detail, of course!

































Friday, October 12, 2012

The Egyptians got it right!

Have you ever wondered why your watch tells the time in a 12-hour format?
If the day contains 24 hours, why are we so comfortable with the concept of 12 hour division instead of a more logical 24 hours division?
To find the answer to this question, we need to go back in time- to ancient Egypt. The Egyptians were obsessed with numbers and were very practical with their approach to mathematics.
For simple calculations, they used a base-12 system.
Unlike the number 10 (the base we use today), the number 12 is really a 'magic' number: it can be divided with 1,2,3, 4, and 6.
To count to 10, you can count your fingers on both hands. But to count to 12, you can instead just count joints on one hand! Therefore you can count more on one hand and use your second hand to hold a tool or a weapon!
Here it is: the world's oldest and simplest calculator - your hand:
... and it comes with a built-in pointer:
"I have 5 goats!"
The superiority of the Egyptian base-12 counting system was obvious, and it was used for all simple calculations, including time division.
While Egyptians had many different "clocks" (the water clock or clepsydra was their original invention), the most widely used timepiece at that time was the sun dial.
Because a clock which runs on sun could only measure daylight hours, the day-time hours were divided into 12 units. And so were the night time hours, with one sunrise to sunset cycle being divided in 24 more-or-less equal units.
This Egyptian division was passed onto the Greeks and centuries later on, to us.
The very first mechanical public clocks in 13th century used the same 12 hour time division display. While mechanical clocks were perfectly able to tell time in 24 a hour format, they too were 'in use' only during day time so 12 hours was more than sufficient for everyday use.
The first public clocks had only one hand, which was precise enough for most users. In a similar manner, the first domestic clocks only had an 'hour hand' as well. The minute hand was added later - actually long after the clocks were featured with date / calendar and moon dials.
In other words, the reason why your modern watch dial looks like it does is because your hand looks like it does. And because of the Egyptians and their obsession with precise division.
A note on medieval clocks: the moon dial was actually one of the most important features and it was a 'norm' with all better clocks. While our need to tell the moon phases is no longer important, the moon dial is still one of the key traditional features of a quality modern watch.
While the majority of timepieces are constructed and designed for everyday use by ordinary users, it is important to note that the 24 hour format is equally important to astronomers. Here is a picture of an astronomical clock in Hampton Court Palace, London:
Today, wrist watches which display a 24-hour time format are popular with users who need to measure and record GMT time. Military users, radio operators and pilots who travel over various time zones to mention just a few. However, thanks to our lifetime exposure to the 12-hour format, our brain is not comfortable with this concept, and telling time using such devices requires mental effort.
In some way, 700 years from the invention of the first mechanical public clock, some watchmakers have reached the full circle, returning to a pure, simple, single-hand 24 hour display:
While the above model from Jaquet Droz is out of reach for most watch enthusiasts, it still presents a fine educational example for a keen student of horology.
And here is another example of a watch by JLC which clearly demonstrates the makers' understanding of the time display concept featuring an AM/PM indicator.
How to display time - and most importantly what to display or omit form the dial- is one of the most challenging steps in watch design. A seemingly small, unimportant or redundant detail can make all the difference between 'just another watch' and a GREAT watch which combines functionality, mechanical properties and design into a horological master piece.





















Thursday, October 11, 2012

Jaw-dropping head turner: Wyler Titanium Carbon Fibre Chrono

Keen students of horology know that the enemy 'number one' of all mechanical watches is corrosion. The second deadly enemy is shock to finely engineered mechanism. Both are fatal and often cause irreversible damage to a watch, regardless of maker or price.
Here is a vignette about a man and a project which attempted to provide a solution to both problems.
Paul Wyler was a Swiss watchmaker born in 1896. At the age of 27, Wyler tackled one of the most challenging problems of his time: shock resistance of wrist watch movements. He was the inventor of Incaflex, a device designed to protect the balance wheel. The device was legendary at that time.
In 1937 Wyler created a stir amongst watchmakers with his water-resistant watch that was not fitted with the conventional soft gaskets. The mineral glass was pressed in between the edge of the case and a pressed or screwed bezel, the gap between the winding shaft and the watch case was sealed hydraulically by fitting the winding shaft and bushing together, in the same material, to 1/500 mm.
In 1956 Wyler became world famous: he dropped 3 of his watches from the top of Eiffel Tower in Paris to demonstrate the shock resistance of his watches. The story goes that while all 3 watch cases were destroyed, the watch mechanism survived intact, continuing to keep correct time !
Ironically, despite the innovative design, practical improvements offered to watch owners and the large number of Wyler's watches manufactured and sold, the brand suffered the same fate as many other Swiss watch brands of the 1960s era: Wyler went out of business quietly.
In 2006 a group of Swiss watchmakers in Geneva, Switzerland, decided to resurrect both the Incaflex and the Wyler brand. The new modern Wyler appeared at the Basel watch show in limited production of only 3999 units in gold and titanium.
This was a very brave and ambitious project. The new Wyler was not just a head-turner, but a technically advanced concept featuring some rarely-seen solutions. The most prominent one was a case design where movement was suspended on 4 shock absorbers. A tourbillon version appeared the following year. A $300,000 baguette diamond-shaped piece premiered in 2008.
Reconstruction of what happened soon after is based more on speculation than facts.
Exactly why Wyler went out of business will remain a mystery. The 2008 global financial crisis was surely one of the factors. Another obvious reason was the exuberant recommended retail price. A $12,000 price tag for an unknown brand name base model was a huge gamble. While the Wyler was uber-cool, it was still an ETA-based time piece. One can imagine that most pieces were sold for significantly less than the asking price. Making a profit on a prototype is impossible, regardless of the industry.
Sadly for the brand owners (and even more so for the investors) the last examples of unsold Wyler timepieces were auctioned by Swiss auctioneer in 2011. Judging by the post-auction results, most bidders had no idea what they were bidding on. Same was the fate of machinery, brand name itself, designs, tools and spare parts - the Wyler project was buried for the second time.
Despite the crash landing, to this day, Wyler remains an uber-cool watch. Mint examples still do appear on the pre-owned market. It is important to remember that Wyler is one of the most copied concept-watches in recent horological history. Clearly, there is a huge demand for a watch which does not look like just another Swiss-made timepiece. Serious watch collectors are constantly looking for a watch 'with a twist' and this beauty is surely a conversation piece with story to tell.
The only remaining question is this one: what is the watch worth today?
In my books, $3,500- $4,000 for NOS example base model and few hundred dollars more for a chronograph is a very fair price. I doubt that even Wyler dealers and stockists paid any less than that 5 years ago. (More likely wholesale price was around $5,000). The stock list still available online and provides a fantastic insight into the brand's marketing policy: http://www.interwatches.com/wyler-pricelist
Would I wear Wyler? Probably not - but I am neither a cool 30-something nor a watch collector. Otherwise - yes, of course!













Wednesday, September 26, 2012

The difference between watch movement types is not a wind up!

Every now and then a customer asks us about watch movements and winding. It's easy to forget that what seems obvious to some is not to others and having grown up with mechanical watches and clocks, winding a mechanical movement to add power to it's spring everyday seems natural to us, but watch movement technology can be completely alien to others.
For those interested in how the motive power of their watch stacks up against the other options and learn a little about winding, read on...


Manual  Watch
Automatic Watch
Quartz Watch
Winding
Daily, by hand
Daily, by wearing the watch
Not required
Power source
Spring
Spring
Battery
How long does it take to wind (typically)
20 seconds
8 hours of daily wear
Not required
Power reserve (typical)
30 hours
42 hours
1-3 years depend on type
Commonly used in
Omega Moon watches
Cal 321 / 861 / 1861
Panerai base models
Unitas 6492
Most Patek Calatrava
Most Jaeger Reverso
Anything described as
Self-winding, perpetual, automatic etc.
No description on dial or "quartz" 
Maintenance
5 years
3-5 years
When required
Cost and resale value
Medium to high
Medium to high
Low to medium
Accuracy [COSC]
-4  / + 6 sec per day
-4  / + 6 sec per day
 1 sec/day or better

1.  Which type should you buy? 

To be honest any specific type of movement is very hard for us to recommend as there is nothing “wrong” with any of these of movements; their power sources are just different and some have features the others do not have. What we would say is that for buyers looking for accuracy, low maintenance and entry level price, the quartz models offer serious ‘bang for your buck’. For those who enjoy the knowledge that an intricately engineered mechanical movement is purring on their wrist, then your choice is already made. In previous newsletters we have discussed the delight many receive from their daily half a minute manual winding ritual, something we believe that everybody who loves watches should experience!

2. How to wind a manual wind watch?

To avoid confusion, it is recommended to wind the watch by rotating the winding crown forwards and backwards between finger and thumb. Typically 20 turns are needed until the spring is fully wound. At that stage resistance will be felt and the crown will no longer move in the direction of winding.


3. How to wind an automatic watch? 

Simply wearing an automatic watch will wind it. The oscillating weight (called 'rotor') which is connected to set of reverse wheels winds the main spring.

4. What is the "power reserve"? 

This is the amount of time that your watch will run for before it needs to be wound again.

5. Can I overwind a mechanical watch?

No. People often say a watch is ‘over-wound' but in reality spring is either wound or not.

6. Can I wind an automatic watch by hand? 

It depends on the watch. Some automatic watch movements can be handwound in the same manner as a manual watch, but the crown will not 'stop' when the spring is fully wound, however you may feel a light click at that point. It is important to understand that automatic watches are not design to be would manually.

7.  What is kinetc? 

Well... Probably too big a subject for today, let’s discuss it in another newsletter. In short: a cross-over between automatic and quartz.

Did you know? Manual wind watches have never said ‘Manual Wind’ on a dial, but Automatic and Quartz often proclaim their movement type in that manner. The reason is simple - why state the obvious? Automatic watches were first mass-produced after WW II. Before wrist watches, gentleman wore pocket watches which required daily manual winding. The oldest surviving pocket watch is one made by Peter Henlein in 1505.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Watch styles and your Personaility

As usual yesterday's subscriber special sold in mere minutes. That is the norm for subscriber specials these days, but what was interesting was that the gentleman who bought the watch told us that he did so because one of the lines in the newsletter description perfectly described the person he was buying the watch for.

'This is perfect watch for the lady who doesn't want to their watch shout out, yet still wants to enjoy a quality watch' 

That got us thinking about watches, style and personality. They say 'that clothes maketh the man', but many people don't always have the option to really make a statement about our personality through our clothes on a daily basis, especially those who wear a uniform, a suit in the office or those comfortable weekend clothes. That means that for many of us our watch probably speaks more about our true selves than any other part of our clothing.

Here is a quick ride though a few personality styles which you might not agree with, and as usual feel free to tell us if you feel that we are way wrong. So without further ado, put on those sunglasses... lets start with....


*** Bling!!!!

For those who's personality is larger than life, and certainly louder than the dress code at work! These watches often sparkle like their owners by utilising diamonds and pearl dials. They stand out from the crowd, catch the light and everyone's attention.

Whilst the allure of diamonds is universal and totally understood, the beauty of Mother of Pearl is that blends with many skin tones and helps to highlight the effects of both diamonds and gold. Blending diamonds with pearl produces a watch that is perfect when dressed up for dinner, and yet also not at all out of place when dressed down for a day out in the sun.

The Omega is pure bling with a serious diamond count surrounding its pearl dial, itself with diamonds on the markers, WOW! The Breitling might appear less obviously overt, yet that deep misty dial with conversely laid subdials really catches the light better than any photo could ever do justice, come in and see it!

Be the talk of the town with these watches!


Omega Seamaster Diamond Dial and Bezel
Omega Seamaster diamond dial and bezel, mother of pearl
Breitling Chronomat Acier Limited Series, mother of pearl dial


*** Classic and Subtle

Whilst subtle and classic are really two slightly different things, we grouped them together in our little office survey as often the more classically styled watches were favoured by those who don't want to make a fuss or shout about their choice of watch, like the Omega from the subscribers special yesterday.

These watches suit buyers that want to enjoy a quality watch but don't want anyone to feel they are showing off. They offer clean styling and time reading is simple and clear. These are watches that your colleagues would have to look closely to realise what they were, but of course you would have them half hidden under a shift cuff anyway, its just who you are...

The clean and classic Omega watches are obviously subtle, but the solid gold Rolex is so nicely toned down by the use of a leather strap that it's subtle as well as being a true classic.

Shussh! don't shout about these watches....


Omega Aqua Terra Quartz
1978. Rolex Oyster Datejust Ref. 1625
Omega DeVille Ref. 4813.40.01


*** Contemporary

When looking for a dressy watch that breaks away from the norm, it can be tough to locate something that is different enough from the crowd that you can be safe in the knowledge that you've got something that you wont see when you look around in a business meeting anytime soon. The people who are attracted to these watches tend to be those that don't want to toe the party line and while they wont often speak about it, they make their choices seriously with quality and style in mind.

Step away from the usual Rolex and Omega crowd and lets talk Cartier. Superb quality and watches that whilst contemporary in design are also subtle as well as classics. Hard to go wrong of course

Be different...


Gents' Cartier Roadster Automatic in stainless steel
Gents' Cartier Santos 100 XL


*** Techno Cool


While few will admit it, they are gadget freaks who will buy the latest technology no matter what it is; ipod, iphone, ipad... and they would probably queue to buy an iwatch if one came on the market, even if it wasn't actually of the quality they would usually favour in a timepiece. Then there are others who make use of technology in their jobs, and like to have a watch that has extra functions. Plenty of people use a stopwatch to time various things at work, and many Pilots enjoy having a watches with extra time zones and other slide rule functions and we should not forget that NASA flight qualified the Speedmaster and it helped save the Apollo 13 astronauts when their computer failed.

The Breitling Chronospace with dual time module is a technological tour de force and will keep any techno junkie happy for ages, and the Tudor provides a simple and easy to use mechanical stopwatch function yet in a more classic style. For those who just like technology but don't have the need, both will of course time your boiled eggs and toast to perfection!

Far better than another iWatch rumour...


Breitling Chronospace Ref. 56012.1
Tudor Chronotime Prince Date Chronograph Ref. 79260

Are you a watch user or abuser?

We often call them marvels of mechanical micro engineering, status symbols, precious heirlooms, and fashion accessories. And yes, of course that's what watches are. However, many of us simply forget the most important property of mechanical watches: the fact that they are designed and manufactured as precision AND accurate instruments.

(Although it is worth pointing out that many of these instruments are perhaps precise but not actually that accurate, but don't worry I am not going to bore you with a discussion about either precision or accuracy today! )

The point of this rant is this: While many can afford a mechanical watch, only some of us truly understand the challenges related to using mechanical watches. Of course, it does take bit of sophistication to truly appreciate a 300 component precision instrument. We might be rich by now if we had a dollar for every time a customer asked us, "So I can't really wear it in shower?", "I can play golf and jog with it, yes?" and, our 'favourite'; "What? I need to wind it manually... every day? no way!", usually finishing with "... my $99 Casio never complained when I do all that and more!"
Hmmm... Precisely !

If that is where you're coming from then obviously, due to your lack of appreciation and sophistication, then no, this precision instrument is definitely *NOT* for you. I'm sorry, but until watch owners care to learn the difference between the terms 'use' and 'abuse', they have no right to call themselves watch aficionados; because, frankly, they are not.

Sadly the other end of spectrum is that there are those who are always happy to point out that mechanical watches are designed to withstand extreme conditions. The proof is apparently in the fact that many watches survived years of abuse before giving up.

While this is definitely a testimony to makers of fine watches, this argument alone makes very little sense. Our aim is to preserve watches for next generation, enjoy the precision and accuracy, marvel at their mechanical engineering: not to push them to limits or beyond.

After all, pushing to the limit and beyond has already been done 54 years ago. To be flight-qualified by NASA for all manned space missions, the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional chronograph successfully passed 11 different tests.

1. HIGH TEMPERATURE 
48 hours at a temperature of 160 deg F (71 deg C) followed by 30 minutes at 200 deg F (93 deg C). This under a pressure of 5.5 psia (0.35 atm) and relative humidity not exceeding 15%.

2. LOW TEMPERATURE 
Four hours at a temperature of 0 deg F (-18 deg C).

3. TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE
Chamber pressure maximum of 1.47 x 10^-5 psia (10^-6 atm) with temperature raised to 160 deg F (71 deg C). The temperature shall then be lowered to 0 deg F (-18 deg C) in 45 minutes and raised again to 160 deg F in 45 minutes. Fifteen more such cycles shall be completed.

4. RELATIVE HUMIDITY 
A total time of 240 hours at temperatures varying between 68 deg F and 160 deg F (20 degC and 71 degC) in a relative humidity of at least 95%. The steam used must have a pH value between 6.5 and 7.5.

5. OXYGEN ATMOSPHERE 
The test item shall be placed in an atmosphere of 100% oxygen at a pressure of 5.5 psia (0.35 atm) for 48 hours. Performance outside of specification tolerance, visible burning, creation of toxic gases, obnoxious odours, or deterioration of seals or lubricants shall constitute failure to pass this test. The ambient temperature shall be maintained at 160 deg F (71 degC).

6. SHOCK 
Six shocks of 40 g's, each 11 milliseconds in duration, in six different directions.

7. ACCELERATION 
The equipment shall be accelerated linearly from 1 g to 7.25 g within 333 seconds, along an axis parallel to the longitudinal spacecraft axis.

8. DECOMPRESSION 
Ninety minutes in a vacuum of 1.47 x 10^-5 psia (10^-6 atm) at a temperature of 160 deg F (71 degC) and 30 minutes at 200 deg F (93 degC).

9. HIGH PRESSURE 
The equipment to be subjected to a pressure of 23.5 psia (1.6 atm) for a minimum period of one hour.
10. VIBRATION Three cycles of 30 minutes (lateral, horizontal, vertical), the frequency varying from 5 to 2,000 cps and back to 5 cps in 15 minutes. Average acceleration per impulse must be at least 8.8 g.

11. ACOUSTIC NOISE 
130 db over a frequency range from 40 to 10,000 Hz, duration 30 minutes.


Thanks to its accuracy, reliability and sturdiness, the Omega Speedmaster Professional not only survived all NASA lab tests, but continued to be an essential instrument in the exploration of Space for next decade. Yet, it is interesting to note that we see no mention of 'the shower test', 'Golf test' in NASA's exhaustive testing and it should be borne in mind that the watch is wound manually...

To wind yourself or get a winder?

You stand at the window and gaze upon the vista before you. The sun slowly awakening from it's slumber as it begins to spread its warm glow out over the city. Coffee aromas lift slowly in the atmosphere, mixing with the honey upon your toast on the table. Immersed in yourself, ignoring everything else around, you gently rotate the crown of your watch back and forth whilst thinking about the day ahead.


Some rituals transcend time and space, that quote could be from a classic, or could have been you this morning.... 
Every few weeks we get an email or a phone call from someone who wants to know a bit more about watchwinders and questions why we no longer stock them, so we thought we should explain our thoughts on these units with you, as some of you probably have questions about them too.


These winders sound good but why do I need one? 
Mechanical watches are superb devices that keep good time, but... as they are based on a clockwork mechanism if they are not wound the spring runs down and they stop. Watch manufacturers fixed this issue by developing watches that use a battery instead of a spring for storing their power and those watches will run from 12-60months depending brand/battery etc. This is great if your watch is Quartz, but mechanical watches need winding.


How do they work? 
A watch winder usually takes the form of an attractive mechanical machine and is used to keep automatic (self winding) watches wound and running while they are not being worn. The machine rotates the watch which is an action that mimics the way the watch is worn on a human wrist, thus allowing the rotor (a moving weight inside the watch that winds the spring on a self winding watch) to turn and wind the main spring.

Can it overwind my watch?
A winder cannot over wind an automatic watch.


Sounds good, but do I need one? 
Well, If you have more than one automatic watch then you probably have watches you are not wearing and their 'charge' is wearing down. If you leave most automatic watches off your wrist for 48hours then they will stop. It depends on how much the re-setting of the time and date bothers you.


How about Kinetic and manual wind watches?
Kinetic watches work with the same principal as automatic watches with a turning rotor to charge up a capacitor/battery so yes a watchwinder can keep those watches charged up. So far no one has produced a viable winder for manual wind watches.

Does using a winder wear parts of my watch?  
Short answer is yes. You wouldn't leave your car running in your garage and expect no wear on the moving parts of the engine.

 
Is it really a winder you need?
If you are finding that your watch is not holding its power overnight when off your wrist, then its not really a winder that you need, your watch needs a service. 


So it's just convenience then? 
Yes of course. Winders are cool and owning one is a nice part of the watch collecting hobby, but how hard is it to wind a watch and set the time/date? Lets face it you don't leave your car running in the garage overnight just so that it's warmed up and ready to go first thing every morning?


Is there an exception?
Exceptions always prove the rule, and highly complex perpetual calendar watches where calendar setting requires certain procedures, so manufacturers advise that they should always be run continuously. Frequent manual calendar setting on these watches can be problematical and may cause accidental damage so these watches often come with their own winders. However those watches must undergo a factory service every 4-5years because they are continuously run.


Why don't we carry them anymore?
We may be purists and watch geeks here at the shop, but we think that watches are more than just time telling devices. The fact you have a 300+ part miniature machine on your wrist is supercool in itself, and the chance to interact with it is in some ways a bit special. We firmly believe that there is enjoyment in winding your watch. There should be solace in the ritual in the same way owners of large clocks in big houses and the chosen men on ships were entrusted to look after the timepiece that the institution revolved around. Automatic movements have removed the daily manual winding ritual, why go further?

Monday, June 18, 2012

There is no such thing as a small victory

When we fight for our rights, there is no such thing as a small victory.

As most of you are aware, a few months ago we started a campaign called 'Save the Time'. Basically, we wanted to demonstrate to watch brands that we, the consumers, have certain rights and we want to be taken seriously.

This action was really long overdue.

Taking advantage of restriction on supply of spare parts to independent watchmakers, more watch manufacturers - and especially Swiss 'brand names' - are now forcing watch owners to undertake unnecessary repairs which they call "mandatory". As a result, often, the repair quotes are loaded with items which are not requested nor beneficial to watch owners.

While there is nothing wrong with being a monopolist, taking advantage of the monopoly and forcing consumers into service agreements which are only beneficial to the brand is something that is contrary to Australian Consumer Law.

For the first time, such practice has been exposed and dealt with at the NSW Consumers Tribunal level. On your behalf, Save the Time's spokesman initiated a case against a well known Swiss brand.

On 1st June 2012 Consumers, Traders and Tenancy Tribunal of NSW Sydney made an Order which I have attached for your reference.

This order basically states that a service centre for major Swiss watch brands is required to "provide ... Applicant with the specifically requested service ... without the additional recommended repairs."




This simple order is of great importance to Australian watch owners and Australian watchmakers because it deals with an issue which concerns many thousands of Australian consumers.

After the order was served, again, on your behalf, Save-the-Time has approached Office of Hon Anthony Roberts MP, who is Minister for Fair Trading in NSW, with a request that the order be made public and available for viewing online.

The order and our action generated substantial amount of interest and soon Mr. Tim James, Chief of Staff for Minister Roberts organized a meeting with your spokesperson.

It was a real honour and pleasure to meet with the Minister who actually took time form his busy schedule to visit the 'Save-The-Time' headquarters on June 15.

 Hon Anthony Roberts MP, Minister for Fair Trading with spokesman for Save-the-Time 


Minister Roberts was very keen to learn more about our campaign and was impressed with the number of petitions received in support. He mentioned a similar case in another industry which was brought to the Tribunal recently, and was resolved successfully. It was obvious that the Minister was proud of his department and the good job it does protecting the interests of Australian consumers.

Essentially, this is exactly what we campaign for: a fair trade - trade and servicing agreements which are beneficial to everyone involved.

Where do we go from here?

While this particular order is just a first step, it is nevertheless a step in the right direction.

It shows that no corporation is immune to being questioned about its policy towards consumers. While the preparation work may take months of efforts, and the order may appear minuscule, it does have a significant consequence in restoring fair trading and common sense.

It is also obvious that positive outcome can be achieved only when a number of people work together towards common interest.

Most importantly, the CTTT order sends very clear and very specific message to watch brands: we do understand our legal rights and we are ready to take a stand. Corporate bullying is not the way we do business in Australia.

Practical implication

You, as a watch owner and consumer, have the right to request for SPECIFIC SERVICE. While the watch servicing centre may recommend additional services, it is the owner's right to request and demand that only specific services be undertaken. Put your request in writing. If your request is ignored or if you are forced to undertake 'mandatory' service which is not to your benefit, contact the service centre again and let them know that you are willing to take the case to CTTT.

If necessary, make them know that you are part of a consumers' movement and that you are aware of a recent case where the Tribunal has made a decision which supports your stand.

I have no doubt that Swiss service centers will quickly get the message. We hope that their mindset and servicing policy will change for the better.

However, as two recent emails received from fellow subscribers clearly demonstrate, we are still not there.

Now is not the time to quit, rather it is the time to take an even firmer stand. We'll talk about that very soon.

To those of you who have publicly supported our campaign by signing a petition, a big THANK YOU and WELL DONE.