It’s Difficult

 

Let me be brutally honest: selling a $500 Seiko or a $50K Rolex is a piece of cake. Anyone can do it, and I’ve done it countless times. But selling my own watch is incredibly difficult - and I hate doing it. Here’s why. Selling is nothing more than telling the story of a watch and highlighting what’s in it for you. That’s it. There’s nothing more to it. But even the most reputable, accomplished, and acclaimed maker would struggle to sell his own watch. Makers are poor salesmen. On the other hand, finding someone to tell my own story is nearly impossible. And even if it weren’t, I am certainly not willing to pay someone to sell me. I would rather do a very poor job myself than pay an influencer, journalist, or blogger to do an even worse one. A poor original is still better than the best fake. This morning, we recorded a short video about “a watch manufactured in Australia.” It’s a 30-minute retrospective of a 10-year journey. Getting Josh to us was a real challenge, but he obliged. These days, the Brookvale workshop is a busy place, with two young engineers and four young machinists running high-precision manufacturing around the clock. Yes, we’ve come a long way. What’s in it for you? Perhaps just one thing: if a naïve but determined bunch can do it, then you have no excuse not to pursue your own dreams. I’ll stop short of calling this video inspirational, because that was never the intention. But the message is pointed: creative, determined, and motivated dreamers have no choice but to swim against the stream. The journey is painful, and there is no prize nor glory - but it’s worth every second.

Watch our latest video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFKADmxz5hI

Beware of fake watchmakers

 

The message is simple: reading a book on dentistry will not turn me into a dentist. Reading George Daniels’ epic Watchmaking will not turn a pimpled 17-year-old kid overnight into a master watchmaker capable of crafting a Breguet-grade watch. No matter how much money is poured into publicity, online presence, commissioned articles, likes, and followers in an attempt to create the personification of an “independent watchmaker” and a brand supposedly worth investing in, a knowledgeable and discerning collector won’t be fooled. The feeble attempt to blindly replicate a Daniels watch on a kitchen bench using crude tools will fool no one. To some, our video is somehow controversial. Others feel slightly uncomfortable with demasking and debunking. And some simply can’t handle the truth: we are still trapped in the woke movement of the COVID era. Telling someone that there is no shortcut to education, bench experience, and investment in high-grade precision machinery—which, combined with the hard labour of skilled craftsmen, produces a masterpiece of industrial quality—is somehow seen as offensive. Yet we, the watchmakers, have no choice. Our role is to educate, to unmask when necessary, to guide, and to protect our trade and our craft. And equally, to protect you—the watch enthusiasts—from shonks who claim to be us. We don’t want what’s yours, but we will guard what’s ours. Vigorously. Investing in an “independent watchmaker” could be your best decision ever—or your worst nightmare and a financial disappointment. This video is all you need to see to know the difference.

Watch here: https://youtu.be/uoCFOv3FZ4w

Many steps ahead

 

When it comes to trade and commerce, we live in strange times. We are swimming against the tide of fake news, market manipulation, senseless tariffs and global uncertainty. Unchartered, shark infested waters. Good business news with optimistic outlooks are few and far between. Last night, finally, some positivity. Once again, I was invited to the annual SEIKO dealers dinner, a rather low key, almost private event. Seiko's way of saying 'we appreciate your business'. A handful of top performing independent Seiko retailers, from all states, familiar faces, a friendly atmosphere. The core message was delivered in a typical Japanese way: modestly, but to the point. The last financial year was Seiko Australia's best on books. Seiko is not just doing great, but setting new sales records. It feels fantastic being a part of the winning team. More good news; thanks to a decision made by Japanese headquarters, all the profit generated in Australia, stays in Australia. Seiko's plan is to invest in advertising and training. Smart. Yet the detail that impressed me the most: if you are a Seiko employee with 10 years of service, you are still a youngster. Most of their sales executives, sales reps, state managers and technicians have been with Seiko for fifteen, twenty and some even thirty years. In a world where corporate loyalty is measured in months, where climbing the ladder means relentless skips from job to job, Seiko employees are happy to stay, learn, be trained, remain loyal. To us, they come across as being genuinely fulfilled, rewarded and excited. Their contribution is appreciated and valued. What more can someone ask from their employer? The unspoken words of the event were even more powerful. Not once was there a mention of competition, Switzerland, or other brands. True to its core founding value, from the days of Kintaro Hattori - "Always one step ahead of the rest.” Powerful industry leaders lead, fearlessly. The Seiko way, for many decades to come. Nicholas Hacko Watchmaker and Premium Seiko Dealer https://seiko.clockmaker.com.au/

Small business Diary, 7 April 2021.

"Dear Nick,  Thank you for your time last week where we reviewed the attached Policies for  the 2021-2022 Insurance period. I confirm that all policies are in force for the next 12 months. Invoice 1426 relates to the Brookvale cover. This policy has increased by $2,200.00 over last year. The Insurers increased the premium $1,136.00 due to the general cost of claims experienced by Insurers over the past twelve months. However, the NSW Government charges added an extra $1,000.00 to the premium which increased the cost as shown..." Stewart, our insurance broker, is a decent man. We see each other once per year to shake hands over Insurance cover. Stewart loves us: we keep the records straight and honest, we make no claims and we pay our premium in one go. Yes, we take insurance seriously. Our small business is covered by four policies: public liability, stock, shipping and one which covers the Brookvale manufacturing workshop. The first three premiums are unchanged from the last year, but ironically, it was the manufacturing policy which covers tools and equipment that was hit hard by both sides: the Insurer and NSW Government.   NSW Emergency Services levy went up by 35% from last year. NSW Stamp duty went up by 20% and combined with base premium increase of 17%, the GST component went up by 20%.

Last year, National Insurance Brokers Association (NIBA)  wrote to the NSW Premier and the NSW Treasurer calling on the Government to complete the reform of the Emergency Services Levy. “We made it very clear that we do not need to wait for another Royal Commission to recommend the reform of this unfair and unjust revenue stream”.  It was extremely disappointing to read the Treasurer’s comments. The Government has indicated it intends to collect $1.1 billion from policyholders in the 2020/2021 financial year. This is a massive impost, and will be 45 per cent higher than the amount raised in 2018/2019. “NIBA will work with the Insurance Council of Australia to keep up the pressure on the NSW Government to follow the lead of the other States and Territories, follow the recommendations of any number of Royal Commissions, reviews and inquiries, and abolish this unfair and unjust levy.” According to Reserve Bank of Australia (https://www.rba.gov.au/inflation/measures-cpi.html) the average inflation rate sits around 0.7%. Actually, in the June quarter for 2020, for the first time in decades, we had negative inflation (deflation) of 0.3%! Yet the NSW Government has put their greasy hands in manufacturers pockets mercilessly, hitting us with a 35% increase on Emergency service and 20% on stamp duty.   To Gladys Berejikian: Darling, you are choking us to death. Please have a mercy on small manufacturers before it’s too late.  But then again, the more pressure Gladys puts on me, the more determined I remain to keep going on.

Alpinist - the most enigmatic watch ever. Or what is the colour of British Classiness?

 

Bobby is obsessed with the Seiko Alpinist, so it made perfect sense to ask him to introduce the model to our subscribers. He took his time – most of the afternoon to be precise – but this morning, when the article was ready for press, he told us that he has no story to share. For one reason only: the story has been so masterfully told, in detail, by none other than the two Seiko designers who were involved in the creation of the Green Alpinist. And here it is, for your enjoyment – horological sophistication at it’s best.  “The green watch, the most enigmatic Seiko watch ever” https://www.seiko-design.com/en/stories-en/alpinist-en/

Seiko Alpinist Prospex SPB121J1 39.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and brown leather strap.  Water resistance 20 bar. Automatic movement - 6R35 Price: $1,200

We also have the white and black version.

Seiko Alpinist Prospex SPB119J1 39.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and black leather strap.  Water resistance 20 bar. Automatic movement - 6R35 Price: $1,200

Seiko Alpinist Prospex SPB117J1 39.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and bracelet.  Water resistance 20 bar. Automatic movement - 6R35 Price: $1,250

SEIKO Prospex Save the Ocean

 

If there is one thing I don't ever take for granted, it has to be YOUR TRUST. I am extremely proud of the fact that the vast majority of you trust me blindly. You trust me with your money, your most precious watches; you trust my valuations and expertise. Of course we may disagree on almost everything else, but that is irrelevant. Today, I am ready to offer you another opportunity to take our trust to the next level. Here, in front of me are two amazing Seiko watches: Save the Ocean Prospex (professional specifications) SRPE33K. These two watches are so stunning  that I simply don't want you to miss the opportunity to own one. Why? Because I am convinced that Save the Ocean is going to be your favourite everyday watch -  a 'crown piece' in your Seiko collection. Here is the story and reason why you should invest in one. A few years ago, Seiko introduced the first Save the Ocean piece with a unique dial in a design inspired by the blue whale. It was a success. The second generation featured rolling waves with a subtle fin of a lurking Great White shark. This time, the blue dial features 3 manta rays .  This is a collection in the making. This is what separates the Seiko Save the Ocean collection from the rest of the 'divers' watches by Swiss brands. The dial finish is simply amazing - form, composition, design to execution. The very reason why Save the Ocean will be forever popular with generation after generation of watch enthusiasts and retain it's value in years to come. Here is the deal: if you open the box and you feel that I have oversold this Seiko to you, I will take it back for immediate full refund. Then, I will send you a personal, hand written note with $100 as an apology for letting you down.  By trusting me you have nothing to lose, zero risk and your full satisfaction is guaranteed. "Bloody hell Nick, you were right, I LOVE IT" is the only outcome and only option. Price: $995

It all started with bush fire smoke, somewhere in January

The initial "discomfort in throat" quickly turned into a sporadic but annoying cough.  It felt like medium-coarse sand paper (grade 800, wet & dry) being jammed in the upper airways.  "It will go away" I told myself.

It didn't. Instead, it turned into an irritating hourly ritual of unhealthiness which annoyed the hell out of everyone around me. But it wasn't the cough - it was the sleep deprivation that drove me crazy. Finally, two weeks ago, I went to see my GP for a checkout.

"You are perfectly fine, it's not coronavirus", she said.  "It will go away".

"When?" "In two weeks. If it doesn't, then come to see me again. Actually, don't come to see me. It will go away."
"It's not going away for 3 months now"
"Yes, I know" - he said - "I've been coughing myself for 6 months. It is irritating, but it won't kill you. It is most likely hereditary."

That night I called my brother who specialises in public health.

Ten minutes later, my mother was on the line. "Your brother told me you are coughing like a donkey. I can't believe you are not drinking onion tea! Start drinking it now, you will be like new by Friday!".

Bloody hell, the onion tea! How could I forget that good old Slavic recipe, the universal cure for any illness known to humans and small domestic animals?

"Boil one onion in a litre of water for 10 minutes. Drink 3 times per day."

Yes, it' simple as that. Does the tea smell and taste like onion? Of course it does. But if you are coughing like a donkey, it is the most pleasant taste ever. Because - it works.

Did it go away? Of course, like my GP said - in exactly two weeks’ time.

BREAKING NEWS- Watch and Act!

*** BREAKING NEWS- Watch and Act! - 2020 World Watch Auction in Aid of the Australian Wildfire Crisis.

At midday yesterday, a rather urgent message interrupted an already hectic day: it was Andrew from Time and Tide. "We need a watch for an upcoming auction: Deadline: tomorrow".   There was not a slightest doubt in my mind that a request to donate a watch for such a worthy cause could only be answered with yes, happy to help.  But a twenty-four-hour deadline meant that a Timascus piece - that takes at least 2 months to machine - would be out of the question.  On the other hand, to donate a standard stock watch would be too ordinary.   "When are you going to make me a watch?" pestered Tanya for years. I was reluctant to answer, but not without reason: a 44mm ‘Rebelde’ was too large for her wrist; and she stopped wearing her Cartier Tank when we started our own brand. Patience! Finally, in February last year, a Mark 1 prototype with serial number 1/200, a custom red rotor and kangaroo strap became her first 'special' watch. And she has been wearing it since, daily.   “Sorry Tanya, I need your Mark 1 back to the workshop. Kind of urgent, will tell you more later”.   All I can say is – bid strongly. Currently, there are 17 watches being auctioned: H Moser, Bulgari, Longines, Hublot, Zenith and a few other brands which kindly donated timepieces for a good cause. Amongst them: two humble Australian brands. I would love to see Mark 1 No. 1 staying in Australia, rather than being shipped overseas and I am sure that you would too. There is not much I can do to make it happen, but if you're a subscriber to my newsletter and end up being the highest bidder, the watch will come with the same guarantee offered to Tanya- a free lifetime guarantee. As long as I'm around, the watch will be taken care of.

Auction link: https://www.invaluable.com/catalog/uuvud7umsq All funds raised (100% of it) will be equally disbursed to the following charities: The Country Fire Authority @CFAVIC Wildlife Victoria @WILDLIFEVICTORIA Gippsland Emergency Relief Fund WWW.GERF.ORG.AU New South Wales Rural Fire Service @NSWRFS World Wildlife Fund @WWF_AUSTRALIA PS. This is an international auction, bidding in US dollars.

The second oldest tool: Knifemaker Feature

We love people who shape metal with their bare hands! Today, a quick introduction to no less than four craftsman, metalsmith knife makers! Knives need no introduction: the second oldest tool, still in continuous use - whose basic construction hasn't changed since day it was invented. An irreplaceable tool or a deadly weapon - simply and beautifully crafted, treasured, and worn with pride. I have a real appreciation for people that are patient and determined enough to practise and perfect a true skill; particularly in industries where the standard for large corporations is mass production and low costs. I especially take interest when children and young adults demonstrate an early desire to learn how to design and machine their own creations. Yesterday, I sent out a notice to knifemakers who also happen to follow our projects, asking them to share stories about their craft with us. Meet Jackson Rumble from Canberra, Aidan MacKinnon from Melbourne, Clement Linder from Bern / Switzerland, and Bjorn Jacobsen from Sydney's Northern Beaches - our neighbour. I hope these four short stories will motivate you to excel in what you do/make/design.

***Jackson Rumble "I started making knives in 2013 after taking a knife making course at the Tharwa Valley Forge. Over the next few years I set up a basic shop in my parents’ garage. Starting out with some very basic tools, I gradually expanded getting my first belt grinder in 2015. In 2016 I started making knives full time at the Tharwa Valley Forge. Later on that year I started teaching knife making and blade smithing classes. Which I’m still currently doing. 2019 was a massive year for me. I started working towards testing for my journeyman smith ranking with the American Bladesmithing Society. After around 8 months of painfully tedious work I achieved my JS stamp and was awarded the Joe Keeslar award for the best knife submitted by a JS applicant. My favourite/ best knife would have to the keyhole fighter form my JS set. It was a huge challenge throughout the build, I was forced to rethink many of my processes. But well worth it in the end! My advice would be to take as many classes and learn from as many different people as possible. There is something to learn from everyone.The best advice I received was to plan and draw each one of my knives before starting work." If you would like to see more of Jackson's work, follow his instagram - @rumble_knives.

The Damascus knife in the photo is made from 1075/ 15n20 carbon steel. The steel stock took 4 days to make, and the whole knife took around 2 weeks to finish up.  My 2 favourite handle timbers are: Gidgee from Australia, and Desert  Ironwood from the US. They are both extremely hard, durable and look fantastic!

***Aidan Mackinnon "I am a full time bladesmith (knife maker) specializing in bespoke handmade kitchen knives working out of my workshop in Melbourne. Knives are often our primary interaction between ourselves and our food - It is with this in mind that Cut Throat Knives are designed to enhance the cooking experience. All our knives are handcrafted and sole authorship (just one person works on the knife from start to finish). They are made from the finest materials available with the care and attention that precision cutting tools deserve, with each blade spending roughly 20-25 hours a bladesmiths hands. In a world of increasingly disposable, valueless items, where homes and garage sales and superstores are packed with mediocre pieces that are bought, used, and ignored, what could be more important than learning once again to value what we buy, and feel a connection to the people who create around us?" If you would like more information about Aidan's work, here is a link to his website: http://www.cutthroatknives.com.au/ and his instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cutthroataustralia/

***Clement Linder "I started making knives at the age of 14. I always liked making stuff and someday I got the idea that I could make a knife. I love knifemaking because of the combination of different materials like steel, wood, composite materials etc. It just never gets boring. The attention to detail needed in knifemaking is almost as crazy as in watchmaking. Every part of the knife must be finished by hand. My favourite kind of knives are kitchen knives. They are interesting to make, and everyone can use it. I really like combining Japanese blade shapes with western style handles. I’m currently doing an apprenticeship as a machinist. And with access to the equipment we have at school, the possibility of making more complicated knives opened up to me. I started designing my first folding knife, and after a few prototypes I machined 15 knives. Last September I was lucky that Titan Gilroy (Titans of CNC on Youtube) came to Switzerland and visited our school. He liked what I did and decided to make a short film about my folding knife (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86KZxZ4_Afc&feature=youtu.be)"

***Bjorn Jacobson Originally from Norway where knife making is a traditional hobby, I started again in Australia some years ago. In the beginning I was doing “kit knife making” where the blade is ready-made and I was making my own handles. Over time I started forging and grinding my own blades, and today also run workshops in Sydney in chef knife making and blacksmithing. Ray Mears is quoted as saying 'Carbon steel has soul, stainless has not.' I tend to also prefer carbon steel with its ability to be forged to shape. There is something primal in shaping a knife by hammer and fire, a connection to our human past of shaping the world to our will by hand. Seeing the steel coming out of the forge and be guided by the hammer and take on a new form is a powerful experience. I enjoy working with natural materials like wood, leather and antler and seeing an idea come to life. For chef knives I prefer stainless steel due to ease of maintenance, carbon steel in the kitchen tends to patina a bit much. I like the Swedish stainless steel 12c27 for ease of heat treatment in my hobby workshop. It is a good combination of edge retention, corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening for my everyday knives. Even my chef knives tend to be with Curly Birch handles, a Scandinavian pale hardwood that I just love the look of. I often stain the curly birch with dark leather dye, then sand it again to take some or most of the stain off. Like on this chef knife showing the grain structure of the wood through the stain and polish. The chef knife in the photo is one my favourites and we still use it every day, it was one of my assessment knives for the Australian Knifemakers Guild." Bjorn@CreativeMan.com.au