It’s Difficult

 

Let me be brutally honest: selling a $500 Seiko or a $50K Rolex is a piece of cake. Anyone can do it, and I’ve done it countless times. But selling my own watch is incredibly difficult - and I hate doing it. Here’s why. Selling is nothing more than telling the story of a watch and highlighting what’s in it for you. That’s it. There’s nothing more to it. But even the most reputable, accomplished, and acclaimed maker would struggle to sell his own watch. Makers are poor salesmen. On the other hand, finding someone to tell my own story is nearly impossible. And even if it weren’t, I am certainly not willing to pay someone to sell me. I would rather do a very poor job myself than pay an influencer, journalist, or blogger to do an even worse one. A poor original is still better than the best fake. This morning, we recorded a short video about “a watch manufactured in Australia.” It’s a 30-minute retrospective of a 10-year journey. Getting Josh to us was a real challenge, but he obliged. These days, the Brookvale workshop is a busy place, with two young engineers and four young machinists running high-precision manufacturing around the clock. Yes, we’ve come a long way. What’s in it for you? Perhaps just one thing: if a naïve but determined bunch can do it, then you have no excuse not to pursue your own dreams. I’ll stop short of calling this video inspirational, because that was never the intention. But the message is pointed: creative, determined, and motivated dreamers have no choice but to swim against the stream. The journey is painful, and there is no prize nor glory - but it’s worth every second.

Watch our latest video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFKADmxz5hI

Beware of fake watchmakers

 

The message is simple: reading a book on dentistry will not turn me into a dentist. Reading George Daniels’ epic Watchmaking will not turn a pimpled 17-year-old kid overnight into a master watchmaker capable of crafting a Breguet-grade watch. No matter how much money is poured into publicity, online presence, commissioned articles, likes, and followers in an attempt to create the personification of an “independent watchmaker” and a brand supposedly worth investing in, a knowledgeable and discerning collector won’t be fooled. The feeble attempt to blindly replicate a Daniels watch on a kitchen bench using crude tools will fool no one. To some, our video is somehow controversial. Others feel slightly uncomfortable with demasking and debunking. And some simply can’t handle the truth: we are still trapped in the woke movement of the COVID era. Telling someone that there is no shortcut to education, bench experience, and investment in high-grade precision machinery—which, combined with the hard labour of skilled craftsmen, produces a masterpiece of industrial quality—is somehow seen as offensive. Yet we, the watchmakers, have no choice. Our role is to educate, to unmask when necessary, to guide, and to protect our trade and our craft. And equally, to protect you—the watch enthusiasts—from shonks who claim to be us. We don’t want what’s yours, but we will guard what’s ours. Vigorously. Investing in an “independent watchmaker” could be your best decision ever—or your worst nightmare and a financial disappointment. This video is all you need to see to know the difference.

Watch here: https://youtu.be/uoCFOv3FZ4w

A watchmaker is nothing more than a fancy blacksmith

 As some have noticed, recently we have released three short videos on YouTube. Basically, we are talking about things that are relevant to you and to us. The watch business is a two-way street, and there is always a way to make dealings more efficient, more pleasurable, and more fun.

We know why you buy watches: because you love them. And if we can assist you in some way—whether it is buying, selling, or repairing—we are here to help and serve.

We tried to highlight three topics. First, contrary to all the hype, the watch market is not dead. On the contrary—it is alive and kicking. Here is just one detail that illustrates the point: in the past nine working days, we have only bought two watches! Yes, most of you are busy wrapping up the year, but when it comes to acquiring stock, these are the slowest weeks we have had in years—if ever. https://youtu.be/Phm01t7N3Ww?

The second video is about second-hand dealing. A transactional agreement were both parties have an obligation to act ethically, honestly, and reputably. If for no other reason than the most obvious one: the Sydney market is tiny. And yes, honesty does pay off. The four tips on how to maximize your profit when selling a watch are often overlooked, but they can make a huge difference—to you, the seller. I strongly suggest you watch it. https://youtu.be/xNbdL7BO26g?

The third video is about accuracy—hands down, the most controversial aspect of horology. Understanding and accepting what is practically possible (for a mechanical watch) is the very first step on a journey called appreciation and enjoyment of watch collecting. Unfortunately for many, the journey is much bumpier: excitement with a new watch, high expectations, then bitter disappointment when accuracy turns out to be “low”. https://youtu.be/KSL9Bap0Hok?

I am sure you will find the video educational and perhaps even somewhat entertaining.

Finally, once again, on behalf of my small team, I wish you all the very best and loads of Season’s greetings. Thank you for your subscription to our mailing list and for your business, and we look forward to serving you in the years to come.                         

The smallest automatic watch movement in the world: Omega Cal 661

In 1961 Omega released a new watch mechanism: Calibre 661. By the number of components per volume, it was the smallest ever industrial manufactured automatic movement in the world. To this day, this record is still unbeaten! The watch arrived in rather poor condition suffering both water damage, broken escape wheel and worn out auto rotor post. Most annoyingly, it also suffered from a 'jellified' rubber casing gasket. While most vintage Omega watches manufactured in 60s and 70s do suffer from this issue, this DeVille was definitely the worst one I've worked on in years. The restoration project commenced in December 2020 and was completed 3 months later, on February 26, 2021. Sourcing the original parts was a challenge. The main goal of this restoration was to preserve as many original parts as possible, especially the original dial and hands. The escape wheel was re-fitted (riveted) on new a pinion. The timekeeping result was rather pleasing with a healthy amplitude. The final touch: a new-old-stock leather strap by Hirsch found in the junk box. To viewers interested in the total restoration cost: $460 was spent on replacement parts and the labour cost was $1,100 (Australian dollars). Was it worth it? This is always a question only the watch owner can answer for him/herself. Turning a broken and discarded watch into a family heirloom which once again keeps time is always money well spent. My special thanks goes to Michael who spent countless hours recording and editing this video. I suggest you watch it on your 'big screen TV' rather than on a small hand held device. In any case - and this is not a spoiler - the 'before' and 'after' shots will impress you. Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emdXChe8fTI

To Jim, from Dad & Mum - Christmas 1934

 

Broken and discarded, then found by Jim's grandson, this 1930s Swiss A.S. watch is now ready for a new lease of life. Without any doubt this was the most difficult restoration project so far.  A. Schild S.A. was a watch movement maker operating from the 1890s through to the 1970s. Adolph Schild began producing watch movements Grenchen, Solothurn after 1896. Schild produced many different movements and became one of the largest movement makers in Switzerland by the 1920s. Schild movements were used by many manufacturers in the 1950s through 1970s, including such familiar names as Harwood, Fortis, Enicar, and even Jaeger-LeCoultre. The quartz crisis of the 1970s hit Schild especially hard, as inexpensive Japanese and quartz watches cut into the market for volume-produced three-handed watches. By 1979, in order to survive the Japanese onslaught, Schild merged with ETA. What made this restoration painful is the fact that there was not a single component that was not either affected by rust, broken, out of shape or simply worn out. Thanks to two other AS554 donor movements, the end result was luckily a success. Make sure to watch until the very end to see what's coming next! Check it out here: https://youtu.be/iJv5vGt2Us0

For your enjoyment only

 

The story of Breitling began on 1884 when a 24 years old watchmaker Leon Breitling founded the small watch manufacturing workshop in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. Leon Breitling specialised in the production of chronographs. By early 1930 Breitling had 40 different chronographs on offer. In 1939 Breitling signed a large contract with the British Air ministry to make flight chronographs for the Royal Air Force. After WW2, Breitling was an official supplier to Douglas, KLM, BOAC, Lockheed, Air France and United Airlines. To this day, Breitling chronographs are regarded as true pilot's watches known for their reliability and precision. Featured in this video is the restoration of a 1953 Breitling Ref. 178 with 18K rose gold case and a Venus 170 mechanical column wheel chronograph. The previous restorer was unable to get the chronograph running and in desperation simply glued both pushers to the case, permanently disabling them. Cleaning the grim of the dial and deoxidising movement parts was a serious challenge. The entire restoration took 9 working days to complete.  Video recorded and edited by Michael Johnston. Watch it here: https://youtu.be/zD3ZuTp8PcA

Do you have attention to detail?

 

The 1953 smashed Breitling restoration project has just got more interesting. Here is the original photo and also the photo of the dial after cleaning.

Can you see what’s wrong with it? Today this would be unthinkable but back in 1953… well let’s just say nobody is perfect. Make sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel – you do not want to miss this soon to be released video.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvYdh0ITL1KyPMmHD84kwXw

By the way the mechanism is Venus 170 which was designed in the 1940s and contains more than 120 parts (Breitling call it reference 103).

And as this old Breitling advertisement says - chronographs are no monkey's business!

Service on $100,000 Daytona

 

Today's video is slightly different than the others: I am pulling apart and servicing my own watch. It is a 1974 Daytona Ref. 6263, which was sitting unused for a decade in a storage box. The mechanism is a Valjoux 72 which Rolex modified in the 1960s and renamed Rolex 727. What makes this movement special: Valjoux designed it back in 1939! If you are a Daytona collector, then you know that back in the 70s no one really wanted a manual chronograph. The truth is that Daytonas were so unpopular that Rolex could not give them away! Zenith, Omega and Breitling already had their own auto chronographs. A few years later, in the 1980s, Rolex started fitting Zenith movements in Daytona models. Nowadays, prices of vintage Daytonas are going through the roof.  My watch has been serviced four times in the past: March 1985, January 1990, May 1997, November 2007, and this was its fifth time. I hope you'll enjoy it - and no, your comments won't break my heart. Check it out here: https://youtu.be/ZG_VGniV_3U Again, a huge 'well done' goes to Bobby for his cinematography and editing efforts. Without him, this video would not be possible.

YouTube - and what we have learned so far

 

One thing is certain - no more videos featuring customers' watches. As strange as it sounds, for some, watching their watch being pulled apart could be an emotional issue. It's like watching your favourite pet on the surgical table.  The real issue is that the vast majority of viewers don't really understand the nature of the repair or servicing process. Some 'manoeuvres' are just not pretty to watch. If you are a vegetarian, you may find a video of an abattoir somehow disturbing. For example: a common complaint is that I don't use finger cots. I do - but during assembly only. While cots prevent fingerprints on metal, the side-effect is enormous desensitisation of the fingers. When manipulating extremely fine parts with very fine tools, there is no other option but to take them off. George Daniels had monster fingers - and never used finger cots in his entire life. Daniels was the most famous restorer of Breguet pocket watches. There is a reason why he worked 'naked' and most likely, an average watch forum follower who thrives on perpetuated myths and stereotypes, won't get it.  "Why are you using such and such cleaning solution or lubricant?" is another commonly asked question. Yes, I am reluctant to provide more details. For two reasons: some are just my trade secrets, while others are too complex to apply by a novice watchmaker or enthusiast. What is shown in the video is a tiny snapshot of a more elaborate 'behind the scenes' process, so what you see is not necessary what you get. Chemistry is tricky.  But the final reason why customers' watches won't be shown any more is this: watch owners simply can't take public criticism. Take for example a recent restoration video - which by the way has been watched over 100,000 times and received hundreds of comments. Most comments are praises for a fantastic restoration job but there are some viewers who were 'not happy' with the way the owner took care of the watch in the past. "If this was my watch I would look better after it!". Maybe you would, maybe you wouldn't. Others directly blamed the owner for the watch being neglected and left in a rather poor condition. For reasons only known to him, the watch owner felt compelled to respond, and unfortunately, in a rather undiplomatic manner - by calling other viewers names and using very inappropriate language. Then hell broke loose, and I watched the drama unfold in real time, at 11pm. One moment I was praised (by the owner) for a fantastic job - only to be called names hours later - for no fault of mine. As they say - you can't please them all.

You may find this disturbing -

but quite frankly, this is not uncommon for almost all watches fitted with a rotating bezel, regardless of brand. ONE MINUTE video: https://youtu.be/FlrvPZKg0D4 A quick polishing job - the removal of a rather nasty chip on the plexi glass. The goal of this project is to preserve the original glass, clean the case and bezel externally before removing the caseback and assessing the movement.

The Moon watch video you have been waiting for...

 

It took us exactly a week to produce this restoration video. It features the iconic 1969 Omega Speedmaster - 'The Moon Watch". The ‘before’ and 'after' images speak for themselves, but what you will be impressed with, is the complexity of the mechanism. Whether you are a watch enthusiast or a crazy Speedmaster fanatic, this video will take your appreciation of watch collecting to the next level. Watch here: https://youtu.be/SCmBT3OSKcQ

"This is the only thing grandpa took with him when he left Berlin". No pressure...

If you wondered why you didn't get the newsletter since Thursday: well there wasn't one sent. We had simply run out of time recording the new 'behind the bench' video. As the person in charge of our YouTube, Bobby came up with a plan to install a 2.5 kg camera right over the bench which would allow us to film above the bench shots. That required a mini crane and some fine balancing, but once we assembled the rig, the rigidity and balancing was even better than expected. So we got carried away recording the restoration of a 1910 Glashütter pocket watch.

The restoration was one of the most difficult projects recently undertaken. The entire watch was completely gummed up. Fifty or sixty years ago, it was over-lubricated with the wrong oil. It was most likely one containing animal fat (which was not that uncommon back then).  Not a single gear could move - despite the fact that the main spring was still fully coiled. Dissembling the watch 'under full power' is a recipe for disaster, but there was simply no other way of doing it.  I am not going to spoil your enjoyment, but you should definitely take a moment and watch the video. https://youtu.be/IW26ur2XEsE

This week we will start transferring our Seiko DIY project onto YouTube. This is a project for hobbyists who want to take up watchmaking as a hobby.  Over the years thousands of students all over the world undertook our online course and managed to disassemble and reassemble their Seiko.  I am still receiving complimentary emails from happy students. Since we now have enough man power to create YouTube videos, this mini video series called 'Seiko for novice horologists' will soon be available online. The first chapter starts with a list of recommended tools and quick show and tell on how to sharpen the screwdrivers properly. For investment of around $300-$400 in tools, you would be on your way in no time. I can not recommend a better hobby for anyone regardless of age, gender or your skill level- than watchmaking.  Every step of disassembly and reassembly will be recorded and explained in detail so there is no doubt that it can be done. The secret? Patience following instructions, quality tools and plenty of light. The sense of accomplishment once your Seiko is reassembled is simply overwhelming.  Even if you lose or break a part that would be just a temporary hurdle. Most Seiko parts are still available so there is no reason not to complete the project. Just to point out the obvious: an investment in quality watchmaking tools is a priceless investment in itself. Stay tuned for more!

Behind the bench

I have just uploaded a two minute video showing day 1 of the restoration project of an 1860's gold pocket watch. The mechanism contains over 120 components and features a stop watch and minute repeater function. Every single component is hand finished and the quality of workmanship is simply amazing. These are not ordinary parts, these are actually some of the most difficult components to make due to their complex geometry. The disassembly and assessment of the quarter repeater took 6 hours. The watch came in with a broken minute wheel which was made in our workshop.  The main challenge is the removal of the surface rust which effects almost every steel component in the watch.  This video is only two minutes long so please check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqGlZRtZ8Rg&feature=youtu.be

You've asked for it - and here it is:

Here is a short tutorial on 'how to remove an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch bracelet' off its case. It's easy. You can do it. No fancy tools required. With a bit of practice, you will be able to replace your Omega bracelet with a leather strap or NATO in no time. Or, simply to remove it for periodical cleaning. Putting the bracelet back on is even easier. My tool of choice: a humble screwdriver with 1.40 mm blade. Link to video: https://youtu.be/E4psVmJBRFo Link to screwdriver suitable for Moonwatch bracelet's spring-loaded bar: https://shop.clockmaker.com.au/home/110-bergeon-screwdriver-14mm-ref-30080-06.html PLEASE make sure to like it - and to subscribe to our YouTube channel. Thank you kindly.

Interview with David Walter, Part 2

If you enjoyed the first part, then the sequel will impress you even more. David is simply telling it how it is, no horological sugar coating, taking no prisoners. Yes, he will rock you out of your comfort zone, but that's what a 'raw and uncut' interview is all about.  (It goes without saying that you should watch the first part before jumping to the link below.) Keep in mind that David Walter is our fellow Australian and in a way, our ambassador in California - who will appreciate your best wishes. Feel free to leave your feedback in the YouTube comments.

https://youtu.be/XUPCx6lxHG8

Workshop News, Brookvale

Continuing with the Manufactured in Australia project.  It has been a busy week with plenty of excitement. Josh is currently manufacturing titanium screws, reaching the 'new small' with a thread diameter of 0.8mm. The screws are turned and threaded on the Citizen CNC lathe. The screw polishing jig is done as well, with internal holes having a thread of 0.8mm and 0.6mm. This is done on the Kern mill using an amazingly small threading cutter. Note the photo of the cutter next to a human hair. We are not quite there yet, more fine tuning to follow, but the first screws are already fully functional.

In the mean time, Andrew is working on the NH Regulator Clock. When we started this project a couple of years ago, it was based on an English design. Last month we finally got back into it - and we made the decision to ditch the old design and start from scratch, designing our own clock. From the layout and unique power maintenance work, to holding all the wheels not in brass bushings but seated in ceramic ball bearings. We also wanted 'perfect' dial symmetry with the minute hand in the centre, seconds and hours in line and two winding squares. It is completely 'in house', from design to manufacturing. A small curiosity is the gear tooth profile - which is not a clock, but watch profile. The plan is to have a fully tested and working regulator on the wall by Christmas. Here is a quick 60 seconds video of the first couple gears in motion. The almost friction-less motion is mesmerising because clock gears are not supposed to turn so smoothly, and especially not while just sitting supported in one bearing. Check it out here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dH4yLDX7Njc It will only take one minute of your time. Make sure to like it and do remember to subscribe to our YouTube channel - much appreciated.

The world is running out of watch gears!

Or more precisely - our need for small diameter precision gears is diminishing fast. Some of you surely remember tape recorders, turntables, cassette players and video recorders - all the electronic equipment which contained more mechanical moving parts - and especially gears of all kind- than electronic components. Not to mention billions of domestic alarm clocks, small desk clocks, travel clocks, parking meters, water and gas meters, kilowatt hours meters - all gone, replaced with their electronic or digital version which no longer contain any gears whatsoever. Yes, ironically the only consumer product which still requires high precision small diameter wheels and pinions is a high grade mechanical watch. And consequently, what once was commonly made in high volume and high precision, built to last for hundreds of years - the watch wheel - has become rare and incredibly hard and expensive to manufacture. Trying to not just restart but to start from scratch a whole industrial precision process of making watch gears in Australia is an enormous challenge. There is not a single Australian business even attempting to setup itself for such a niche task, and to state that our journey is unique would be an understatement. In today's episode Josh, Andrew and myself are sharing with you the first steps of our quest for 'in-house watch gear making'. We talk about challenges, timelines, production costs and gear making equipment setup in our Brookvale workshop. The reason we talk about this is threefold: we want to keep you informed and excited; it is a diary of a rather special project where the focus on learning grossly overweighs the profit, and finally, we share our know-how with anyone who may one day face the same problems as we face today, so they can learn from our experience. The video itself is not overly technical and if you love watches, you'll love the story of what makes your watch tick. I am sure you will find it interesting. As you will find once again, our project is running on 'passion for precision and excitement for horology'. In order to continue further, to continue making and most importantly training young Australian kids, we need your support. Your support is absolutely essential and it could be as simple as clicking the like button on YouTube. Each like counts. And if you do like our video, make sure you subscribe as well. Subscription is just one more click, which will cost you nothing, yet it will mean a lot to keeping our channel active. Liking and subscribing is FREE and takes less than a second. Rolex and Omega don't make videos like we do, nor do they expect your support - nor do they care about Australian manufacturing like you and we do. To watch the video, go to: https://youtu.be/pJkFtRbTqPw Of course, buying a $9 mug or $35 shirt would be even better. Again, the benefit is purely yours - we sell mugs at cost and we only make a few dollars on shirts. We are not begging you to buy our watch - new or second hand - you'll buy it when you are ready, in your own time. That's fine.

Creating your own watch: Three mistakes we made that you should avoid

No script, no editing, raw from the camera. We've tried to answer the most common question asked by enthusiastic watchmakers / brand makers: how do you get your name on a watch dial? Where does one start? And this is a tough question to answer.

Do you start by making a watch George Daniels' way -a million dollar masterpiece- or by kick-starting a campaign selling $100 watches? Or perhaps there is something in-between? Neither Josh nor I are experts, but we've tried to attack the question by sharing some 'behind the scenes' details of our Mark One project. Who is to blame for the 3 major mistakes which resulted in a 12 month delay? What have we learned along the way? Was the project worth the trouble and have we achieved our goals?

If you are a Mark One owner then you will enjoy this video. And if you are considering a Mark One watch then this is a great opportunity to learn more, not just about the watch, but more importantly about the project itself- a project you will be proud to support. Yes, we do mention names but we search for answers- remaining brutally honest. 

Of course, make sure to subscribe, and if you do enjoy it, then please click the like button.

To watch our video click here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaHKjP3-bUM&feature=youtu.be