What is RESTORATION?

 

Before we go any further, let's consult a Cambridge dictionary: Restoration: the act or process of returning something to its earlier good condition. Hardly any room for misinterpretation: fixing a broken watch and returning it to an 'earlier good condition' is essentially a restoration. What is not defined as a restoration is regular maintenance: ensuring that a watch which is already in good working order continues to perform for another period of time - until it's due for next scheduled maintenance. We call this kind of work regular servicing. The recent YouTube video opened a floodgate of comments: "Oh, that video is not a Rolex restoration, it is just a video showing a lots of parts being replaced, not restored." Those comments unfortunately come from ignorant viewers who simply lack the basic understanding of the restoration process. Was the watch broken at the beginning of the restoration process? Yes. Actually, it was at the point of a total write-off. Has it been returned in working order? Yes. The end of the story. However, what may confuse some viewers is the misplaced hope that almost all 100 of the rusted out parts will be restored themselves, individually, one by one. Well, if that was the case, the video would be titled: "restoration of winding stem" or "restoration of barrel arbour" and would have taken 6 months. But the end result of such lengthy 'restoration' would be a total disaster. Finely machined then rusted out watch parts are not designed to be restored. A rusted escape wheel cannot be restored. Ditto to the rest of them. Except for some bridges and in some rare cases, the base plate which holds all components together. We call that part the 'mainplate'. Due to the fact that it is made of brass which is non-ferrous (not containing iron, therefore no rust) metal, the mainplate can be restored. Since the mainplate contains pressed in steel pins, jewels, and internally and externally threaded steel posts, which are not meant to be removed because they are factory set and adjusted, restoration of the mainplate is time consuming and has to be undertaken with great care. This is a very difficult job and could take days - if not weeks. The mainplate is the only part which has been restored in the video. So the video should be titled: "Restoration of rusted Rolex and restoration of Rolex 3185 mainplate". Not one, but two restorations. Read the comments - and you can easily spot the difference between viewers who clearly get it (and appreciate it) and those who are unfortunately clueless about watchmaking.  Again, nothing personal, but if we want to call ourselves students of horology, then we should be able to tell the difference between restoration and servicing. As well to understand why watch parts like gears, pallets, springs, and levers could not and should not be restored - they won't work, the watch won't perform reliably and most likely it won't keep time at all.  I strongly recommend that you do watch our rusted Rolex restoration video, especially now knowing what to expect. Yes, almost all parts are replaced, the main plate is restored, and the delicacy comes from the fact that the mainplate was restored so precisely that the watch was returned to it's almost like new working condition, with correct amplitude, beat error, and daily timekeeping rate. Again, not bad for a complete write-off.  Want to have some fun? For a brief moment, there is a shot of our 'freedom mug'. The tenth viewer to email us the timestamp of its appearance will receive our freedom shirt. We will list the first 10 names in the next newsletter.

The photo of the restored Rolex calibre 3185 mainplate. Made out of brass, finished with perlage and rhodium plated bearing the Rolex serial number. Watch the video here: https://youtu.be/r8g7tyzRjDc

RUSTY Rolex Restoration - the video you've been waiting for!

 

A full 3 weeks of restoration, recording, and editing. The upload to YouTube itself took almost two days. You will notice the difference: Bobby's videography is simply next level.  A bit of background: this 1996 Rolex GMT Master II suffered badly. Soaked in water, it spent two years in a drawer. The amount of rust was unbelievable. Actually, apart from the case and bracelet, only 8 of close to 100 internal parts were preserved.  But the core challenge was to preserve the mainplate: the very base of the watch that hold all components together. The main plate bears the Rolex serial number and preserves the very identity of the watch. If the mainplate is replaced, that GMT Master II is no longer the same watch. Of course, Rolex would not bother with any of the restoration I undertook. They would simply replace the entire movement. Even a half brained monkey can do that kind of 'restoration'. Instead, I've spent a whole week soaking the mainplate in vinegar, dissolving and removing the rust, brushing it of, reaming out broken screws, and inserting new jewels and posts. Finally, the main plate was rhodium plated and you, the viewer, will have a hard time believing it is the same component. Would I and could I do it again? That depends on the availability of Rolex spare parts. The current state of supply of parts to Australian independent watchmakers is unchanged since 2013: none, zero, and no chance. My parts box is now almost empty and new replacement parts are now so expensive that any restoration work is next to impossible. In a way, this video should simply be titled: "The last Rolex restoration". R.I.P. Rolex. Watch it here: https://youtu.be/r8g7tyzRjDc

You may find this disturbing -

but quite frankly, this is not uncommon for almost all watches fitted with a rotating bezel, regardless of brand. ONE MINUTE video: https://youtu.be/FlrvPZKg0D4 A quick polishing job - the removal of a rather nasty chip on the plexi glass. The goal of this project is to preserve the original glass, clean the case and bezel externally before removing the caseback and assessing the movement.

Completely smashed Rolex Submariner

Link to the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThWqdkGesEY

Where Does My Dentist Go?

At the end of the day it all boils down to one question: who would you trust to service your most precious vintage Rolex? The youngest watchmaker in the town, with the best eyesight, or the oldest, most experienced one? The one with steady hands, for sure, - but steady hands without appreciation for beauty are lethal weapon combination. To someone who is going to do a fast job, or offers 'value for money' service? To an Authorized dealer who will send it away? To Switzerland head office? To a local second hand dealer overly concerned about the value of your heirloom, tempted to swap your original parts? To someone who advertises his services on Facebook? To an industry veteran too busy to care and listen? And if this was MY watch, and I turn blind today, whom would I trust? Luckily, there are still a handful of watchmakers in this town I would trust with my Rolex: Max, Thomas, Karl and Carl, Joao. Yes Sydney - consider yourself lucky! Before and after photo of 1971 Rolex Ref. 1680 which arrived to our workshop on Monday, restoration completed on Tuesday night. All original parts preserved, case lightly polished, bracelet brushed to original finish, original 'high dome' plexi polished by hand. Complete overhaul of the mechanism with replacement of worn out auto reverse winding wheels. Ready to go.