Monday, July 13, 2020

From the workshop

Another important milestone reached yesterday: we've made our smallest
titanium screw so far.

The thread diameter is 0.6 millimetre, the head diameter is 1.16mm and the slot is just one quarter of the mil. To put things in perspective: a human hair next to the screw. Note how cool the thread profile is.
And this is how the screw looks like after being machined. The next step is deburring by hand, 'black polish' with diamond paste, and finally anodizing.

And this is how the screw looks, ready for installation.

Next step is to make a polishing jig for polishing of the bottom of the slot.

As reported before: the profile cutter tool for the thread cutting was ground in-house as well.

It would be really interesting to know are there any other screw manufacturers in Australia who can make a screw of this size?
The only other application for such a fine screw outside watchmaking would
be in instrument making.

Wednesday, July 8, 2020

David E Walter

David Walter is the first person to successfully recreate the Woodward Free pendulum clock, W5 in 2006 followed by an improved edition of Breguet No.3671 Double Pendulum clock in 2010 and further development in 2012 added the complications of Daniels Perpetual calendar with retrograde date and sunrise/sunset indications. These great achievements firmly place David Walter not only as one of the greatest clockmakers ever to have lived and the greatest living clockmaker as well as the only clockmaker to have ever made both versions of double pendulum clock, The Free Pendulum (D)W5 and the Double Pendulum Resonance Clock.

And what would you say if I tell you that David Walter is an Aussie?

Quite frankly, I was hoping for and would be more than happy with a fifteen minute chat with David. Generously and kindly, he allocated over two hours to share with us his amazing story.

For your enjoyment here is Part One of the 'Raw and Uncut' interview with David E Walter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1b6OuIYnJb0&feature=youtu.be

Watchmakers Secret Revealed

Like all tradesmen, watchmakers do not share their tricks of the trade, but I have nothing to hide. This two minute YouTube video shows how to professionally remove chronograph hands from an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. We love our vintage watches in original condition and especially the dial and hands. Our duty as repairmen is to keep them intact.

This particular Speedy is from 1968 - fitted with calibre 321 movement.

Make sure to like the video as it would be greatly appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maNQP7vk15Y&feature=youtu.be

Workshop News, Brookvale

Continuing with the Manufactured in Australia project.  It has been a busy week with plenty of excitement. Josh is currently manufacturing titanium screws, reaching the 'new small' with a thread diameter of 0.8mm. The screws are turned and threaded on the Citizen CNC lathe. The screw polishing jig is done as well, with internal holes having a thread of 0.8mm and 0.6mm. This is done on the Kern mill using an amazingly small threading cutter. Note the photo of the cutter next to a human hair. We are not quite there yet, more fine tuning to follow, but the first screws are already fully functional. 
In the mean time, Andrew is working on the NH Regulator Clock. When we started this project a couple of years ago, it was based on an English design. Last month we finally got back into it - and we made the decision to ditch the old design and start from scratch, designing our own clock. From the layout and unique power maintenance work, to holding all the wheels not in brass bushings but seated in ceramic ball bearings. We also wanted 'perfect' dial symmetry with the minute hand in the centre, seconds and hours in line and two winding squares. It is completely 'in house', from design to manufacturing. A small curiosity is the gear tooth profile - which is not a clock, but watch profile. The plan is to have a fully tested and working regulator on the wall by Christmas.

Here is a quick 60 seconds video of the first couple gears in motion. The almost friction-less motion is mesmerising because clock gears are not supposed to turn so smoothly, and especially not while just sitting supported in one bearing.

Check it out here -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dH4yLDX7Njc
It will only take one minute of your time. Make sure to like it and do remember to subscribe to our YouTube channel - much appreciated.

Thursday, July 2, 2020

Why should we care about preserving our horological past?

For a simple reason: there is not much left to be preserved. Every watch or pocket watch which bears unique Australian markings - regardless of how humble it may look- has a story to tell.

Here is a perfect example: a 1960 Peerless wrist watch imported for Victorian Railway. What makes this piece special: when Tasmanian Government Railways had a need to issue some wrist watches, they asked Victorian Rail for help. This particular piece was sent down to Tasmania, where it was numbered TGR A205. The VR W marks are still there as well.
This is the first and only 'double issued' piece I have seen so far.

The watch has been overhauled yesterday as 'an apprentice project'. The mechanism: an AS1900 which features a unique 'cannon pinion' assembly rarely seen in other calibres. The study of the click, click spring, and engagement with the ratchet wheel was bit of fun too.

The Peerless case is non-standard with 19mm spacing between the lugs, so we fitted on a 19mm NH leather strap(Italian leather) with our steel buckle. These are usually reserved for the Mark 1 line. Super handy!

Two points: if you ever come across an Australian Railway issued watch, snatch it. They are cheap as chips because "megabrand collectors" could not care less about our history. Second point: if you don't want it in your collection, drop me a note, I'll buy it. Much appreciated!

Finally, if you have a vintage watch which has 19mm non-standard lug spacing, we have black, brown, tan, and red leather straps in stock. These straps are in very limited supply (yes, we like to keep them for our Mark 1 customers). Strap price $50. Buckle side width: 18mm. NH Steel buckles are made of the finest surgical steel. Buckle price $50.

Reclaiming the Horological Grounds

Let's be brutally honest: mechanical watchmaking is a dying trade. The small pockets of activity are centred around mega brands who themselves go through cycles of boost and bust. Consequently the lack of interest from youngsters to join the trade and devote a decade or two in an exclusive but fast declining industry is quite understandable. The carcass has been decaying for a while - but thanks to the new world of fast communication and social media, we are witnessing an unusual development: horology being hijacked by vocal outsiders. Enthusiastic social media amateurs, watch forums, influencers financed by brands, startups, peddling the $20 Chinese watches while waving the banner of "new horology for the young,  modern man". The real watchmakers - the nerdy introverts - who actually sit behind the workbench, who make and repair watches and clocks - and invest a substantial amount of time training and passing their knowledge, are watching silently, slowly sliding into irrelevance.

Last night I spent nearly 3 hours conversing with Tommy Jobson, a thirty five years young English clockmaker. An hour and a bit of that conversation has been video recorded - for your enjoyment. Tommy is a down to earth, skilful and pedantic restorer trained in both watches and clocks. And we've discovered we have one thing in common: admiration to the best living clockmaker in the world - who nowadays, out of all places, resides in Australia!

The interview with Tommy is yet another attempt to reclaim horology by two students of horology, as we proudly call ourselves. It is yet another humble attempt to reverse the tide, to excite and re-focus your attention to things that matter. Ultimately, to lift your appreciation of horology to another level.

Next week we will surprise you with another guest so make sure to stay tuned in and to subscribe to our YouTube channel.

Interview with Tommy Jobson, Bespoke Clockmaker: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMWU1xLbUlQ

Friday, June 26, 2020

There is a cure

This happens about once per year. And it happened last night. But I swear on George Daniels’ grave- it won't ever happen again.

The game is simple: a man in his late thirties calls to make an appointment. To a logical and very servile question "which watch is of interest?" he replies with a vague "I am not sure, what do you have in stock?" My assistant suggests a visit to our website where our entire (fairly modest) range of watches is listed in detail. Unfortunately, the caller refuses to take up the suggestion, determined to make an appointment to "discuss the matter in person" and inspect "whatever it is in stock".

Of course, in most cases that is not a problem, I am happy to help. But when that 'customer' arrives with a bunch of friends who are there to 'help', and when the crowd realizes that I am a small dealer who doesn't have any steel Daytonas, Hulks, or Batmans - or for that matter any watches on display - the buyer and his mates quickly become arrogant, agitated, and verbally abusive.

The mob is always of the same appearance: three white males, aged 30-40, wearing semi-designer clothes and Panerai, Hublot and Rolex watches. Big mouths, always in a pack, trying hard to insert their dominance, while faking disappointment.

Fruitless. Because trying to intimidate and frustrate a 57 year old, chubby, glasses-wearing watchmaker is as cowardly as it gets. It serves no purpose.

Over the decades I have had countless dealings with tens of thousands of men and women, of all ages, status and social backgrounds. From directors of multibillion dollar corporations, politicians, and bankers, to man who wears firearms for a living, and those who can settle any matter with one hit. With men of modest physique, but with great charm, a sense of humour and sense for fashion. Sophisticated alpha males. Great leaders. Decision makers. Tough men and women who work hard to make an honest living doing mundane jobs. Men of integrity and experts in their fields of activity - who all have one thing in common: a love for watches. And that dealing was and is always, without exception, based on mutual trust and mutual respect. Alpha males can achieve whatever they want (which is always a win-win outcome) without resorting to intimidation, abuse, aggression or cheating.

Men who gain pleasure by abusing the weak, who waste time, who get 'upset' over invisible scratches, men who are on a constant quest for perfection - while so painfully obviously imperfect themselves - who start the conversation with 'so what is your best deal' and who send 10 emails to complain about delayed shipping - all those men have one thing in common: they 'act' tough because they are impotent. And there is nothing more pathetic than three impotent, anonymous, ignorant men trying hard to intimidate a watchmaker.

The bad news is that joining a Rolex Forum or visiting local dealers and watchmakers ‘doing rounds’ will not solve the problem. However, the good news is that nowadays, erectile dysfunction can be treated with non-surgical methods. Yes, it may cost a Hublot or two, or even a Hulk, but if this is the price to be paid to sort out frustrations - it would be worth it, for sure.

Until then: take your frustrations elsewhere, visit by appointment only, and if you show up in a group of three or more – sorry, no entry.

Nicholas Hacko,
Master Watchmaker

Sydney

The world is running out of watch gears!

Or more precisely - our need for small diameter precision gears is diminishing fast. Some of you surely remember tape recorders, turntables, cassette players and video recorders - all the electronic equipment which contained more mechanical moving parts - and especially gears of all kind- than electronic components. Not to mention billions of domestic alarm clocks, small desk clocks, travel clocks, parking meters, water and gas meters, kilowatt hours meters - all gone, replaced with their electronic or digital version which no longer contain any gears whatsoever.

Yes, ironically the only consumer product which still requires high precision small diameter wheels and pinions is a high grade mechanical watch. And consequently, what once was commonly made in high volume and high precision, built to last for hundreds of years - the watch wheel - has become rare and incredibly hard and expensive to manufacture.

Trying to not just restart but to start from scratch a whole industrial precision process of making watch gears in Australia is an enormous challenge. There is not a single Australian business even attempting to setup itself for such a niche task, and to state that our journey is unique would be an understatement.

In today's episode Josh, Andrew and myself are sharing with you the first steps of our quest for 'in-house watch gear making'. We talk about challenges, timelines, production costs and gear making equipment setup in our Brookvale workshop. The reason we talk about this is threefold: we want to keep you informed and excited; it is a diary of a rather special project where the focus on learning grossly overweighs the profit, and finally, we share our know-how with anyone who may one day face the same problems as we face today, so they can learn from our experience.

The video itself is not overly technical and if you love watches, you'll love the story of what makes your watch tick. I am sure you will find it interesting.

As you will find once again, our project is running on 'passion for precision and excitement for horology'. In order to continue further, to continue making and most importantly training young Australian kids, we need your support. Your support is absolutely essential and it could be as simple as clicking the like button on YouTube. Each like counts. And if you do like our video, make sure you subscribe as well. Subscription is just one more click, which will cost you nothing, yet it will mean a lot to keeping our channel active. Liking and subscribing is FREE and takes less than a second. Rolex and Omega don't make videos like we do, nor do they expect your support - nor do they care about Australian manufacturing like you and we do.

To watch the video, go to: https://youtu.be/pJkFtRbTqPw

Of course, buying a $9 mug or $35 shirt would be even better. Again, the benefit is purely yours - we sell mugs at cost and we only make a few dollars on shirts. We are not begging you to buy our watch - new or second hand - you'll buy it when you are ready, in your own time. That's fine.                           

Case polishing explained

Last week we published a photo of before and after of a Rolex case polishing job undertaken by Bobby, second year apprentice.
The polishing was done by hand using just various grades of emery paper and a wooden stick, with mirror finish achieved on a rotating buff wheel (cotton disc and polishing medium).
The end result speaks for itself. We posted the photos on Instagram inviting our followers to rate the job anywhere between 6 and 9 out of 10. As we expected, almost all marked the job with top grade.  What we didn't expect: this photo was one of the three most liked posts with over 600 likes.

Yet a couple of watch enthusiasts couldn't help but to offer rather strange opinions on the matter. There were two complaints:
1. Case polishing is bad because it removes patina
2. Hand polishing and especially buffing on the wheel is a 'bad' method. Watch cases should be lapped, not polished.
Yes, for some, case polishing is a controversial issue.  Allow me to defuse it for you and help you understand the fundamentals.
Once you understand those fundamentals then you will be able to make an educated decision.

What is patina?
Patina is a green or brown film on the surface of bronze or similar metals, produced by oxidation over a long period. Patina is also a gloss or sheen on a surface of antique furniture resulting from age or polishing.
Please note: we use same term to describe completely different effects created in different manner on two different surfaces: bronze and wood. Yet in both cases, it is the patina - whether it is the sign of natural ageing, polishing with shellac and oxidation- which gives an object the distinctive 'naturally aged' shine and colour.
It takes no expert to appreciate that a fine bronze sculpture should not be polished (only dusted!), neither should a fine French polished antique table be stripped down to bare wood or attacked with aggressive polishing agents. We leave bronze and wood alone- to age naturally.
Stainless steel which is used in modern watches is a different story altogether. Ideally, stainless steel does not oxidize - so it cannot develop any patina whatsoever. The oxidation process of steel is simply called rust. Pitting is actually worse than surface rust - it is a nasty corrosion which kills the water resistance of watch cases. Since almost all modern watch cases are nowadays made of stainless steel, titanium or precious metal, we don't associate the term 'patina' with watch cases.  To use the term 'patina' on any watch case except bronze, is grossly inappropriate.

Stainless steel cases leave the watch factory with a variety of surfaces: polished, gloss, mirror finish, brushed, sand blasted. General expectations with modern watch servicing are to at least improve the condition of scratched cases, if not to return them to as close to original finish where possible. Again, not to preserve any patina - because there is no patina to be preserved.

"Please don't polish - I like my scratched case!"
Fair enough! If your wish is to have all the bruise marks, dents and scratches 'preserved' than who am I to argue with your choice? Indeed, some watch owners are very particular in this respect. However, it is important to point out the obvious:  a vast majority of MODERN watch owners would prefer polished cases and bracelets, restored it to 'like new condition'.  Scratches are bad and undesirable. Disagree? Would you intentionally scratch your new car? Or a brand-new laptop, mobile phone - or a brand-new watch? Removing scratches is DESIRABLE. It's good. It's fine. Removing scratches is difficult, and we don't do it just for fun or to impress you, so relax and enjoy your new polished surface!
However - there is an exception to this rule: unlike modern watches, rare, high value vintage watches SHOULD NOT BE POLISHED. Not because they are worth more when scratched, but because polishing - and in some cases even cleaning- could significantly reduce chances of assessing the originality of both external and internal parts. All the scratches, dings and dents help us to determinate if the watch is original or a Frankenstein put together from new and old parts, or a watch which has been restored correctly - or not.

Polishing is an inferior alternative to lapping
Yes, it is true that almost all modern stainless-steel watch cases and bracelets are polished with the help of modern multi-million-dollar CNC machinery, fully automated, in a process which no longer involves human touch. The final step of that polishing process is lapping. Lapping is a technique where a liquid polishing medium is applied between the work-piece (watch case) surface and a lapping plate. Due to the nature and geometry of those lapping plates, as well as highly controllable lapping action, this automated process produces very uniform surfaces which retain geometry. In other words, polished ‘edges’ are crisp, defined and 'sharp'. They look like they have been defined and polished by robots - which they are.
In other words, when it comes to case finishing, nothing beats machine lapping. Unfortunately, lapping is highly specialized process and your independent watchmaker is either not set for lapping, or when he is able to offer such service, it is only to a limited number of watch cases / shapes / brands. It is a trade in itself - and quite frankly, has nothing to do with watchmaking. To expect your independent small watchmaker to offer case refurbishment service equal to those of mega-brand is simply unrealistic: the same as expecting everyone to fly first class or drive a Ferrari.

"Oh NO! You've polished my watch and rounded the lug! I am devastated!!"
Unfortunately, we live in an imperfect world, and we have to put up with compromise. Watch polishing is ALWAYS a compromise. At the end of the day, you have to answer this question for yourself: which one would I prefer - "before" or "after"? Because this is all we can offer. Polished cases could mean some very minor 'rounding'. This is just a nature of the polishing process, especially when done by hand. However, an experienced polisher is well aware of the process and will do everything possible to keep the wheel buffing action just for the final mirror finish. When we remove scratches, we use a range of abrasive papers and films, in various grades, which takes a majority of polishing time and this is why our results are as per photo.
Not good enough for you? Well, the best polished case is - case replaced. For that, you need to talk to your watch brand service department. We can consistently offer; 6, 7 or 8 out of 10. On a good day - even a solid nine. For perfection see our competition.

Conclusion
There is no such thing as patina on steel cases. Scratches are bad, so take a good care of your watch and you won't need frequent polishing. Polishing is time consuming, requires skills- therefore expensive. Learn to live with small imperfections -life is not perfect. Be happy with the end result - returning the watch case to 'brand new condition' is impossible!

The most abused horological masterpieces

are pocket watches. Butchered, slaughtered, molested then discarded. Being larger than wrist watches, pocket watches are simply a magnet for 'wannabe watchmakers'.
Here is a perfect example of a 1920 pocket watch made by Moser and Cie. Heinrich Moser was a famous watchmaker who set up his shop in St. Petersburg. His clients included Russian princes and members of the Imperial court. Lenin also owned a Moser watch.

The original click (ratchet locking lever) was most likely missing and while the intentions were good, the lack of skills and watchmaking tools is evident.

Yet bizarrely, this crude, oversized click functions - and the watch works!

I happen to have another Moser pocket watch in my collection, so you can see how the original click looks like.

But then again, perhaps, there could be another side of this 'less than perfect' restoration. What if the owner of the watch was positioned on a remote Siberian island? Or even worse - if he was a prisoner in Stalin's gulag, maybe an engineer who understood what the function of the click spring was, but had no tools - other than crude workshop tools - to make a sophisticated replacement?

We should be not too quick to judge and ridicule. And sometimes, trying to 'fix the wrong' could cause even more injustice to our appreciation of humanity and history.

My rule is simple: whatever it is - if you didn’t make it, you have no rights to destroy it. If you really feel compelled to destroy something, then here is a suggestion - start with destroying your own masterpieces.            
             

Wednesday, June 17, 2020

You are invited


I am a big believer in self promotion.

If you don't tell the world what you stand for or what you are capable of doing, or what specialist service you provide to make customer's life easier and better, then you will die as an old, lonely, poor man.

And if there ever was a self promoting business then it's Rolex. Without doubt, it was Rolex who figured out that even a modest, basic timepiece could be transformed into a luxury item when enough money is poured into advertising. To this day, Rolex advertises and self promotes mercilessly. Yet you will never hear a Rolex owner complaining about Rolex's self-promotion.

On Sunday night Josh, Andrew, Bobby and myself spent a couple of hours in our Brookvale workshop recording a video. The plan was simple: not to advertise, but to share. To invite you to be part of our journey. We want to show you our excitement about what we do. Summed up in one word: watchmaking is hard. It's equally as hard for Swiss, German, American, Chinese and Japanese, as it is hard for a small Australian startup. On Sunday we watched 8 inspiring YouTube videos: Patek, Lange, Greubel Forcey, Leroy and we've felt encouraged to keep pressing on. We also felt compelled to recommend those videos to you, so your appreciation of watchmaking will continue to grow. These videos are not a mere brand advertisement but a journey 'deep down' to a very personal, human level, showing the real people who make real watch parts. You will be impressed with our selection.

Watch it here:
https://youtu.be/O-OdpHlrjUk

PS if you would like to tip us- just leave a friendly comment, like and subscribe. 

Wednesday, June 10, 2020

Creating your own watch: Three mistakes we made that you should avoid



No script, no editing, raw from the camera. We've tried to answer the most common question asked by enthusiastic watchmakers / brand makers: how do you get your name on a watch dial? Where does one start? And this is a tough question to answer.

Do you start by making a watch George Daniels' way -a million dollar masterpiece- or by kick-starting a campaign selling $100 watches? Or perhaps there is something in-between? Neither Josh nor I are experts, but we've tried to attack the question by sharing some 'behind the scenes' details of our Mark One project. Who is to blame for the 3 major mistakes which resulted in a 12 month delay? What have we learned along the way? Was the project worth the trouble and have we achieved our goals?

If you are a Mark One owner then you will enjoy this video. And if you are considering a Mark One watch then this is a great opportunity to learn more, not just about the watch, but more importantly about the project itself- a project you will be proud to support. Yes, we do mention names but we search for answers- remaining brutally honest. 

Of course, make sure to subscribe, and if you do enjoy it, then please click the like button.

To watch our video click here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaHKjP3-bUM&feature=youtu.be


Friday, June 5, 2020

Freedom to Make, Right to Repair

Hello, 
Order received yesterday, thanks. I think that's the fastest delivery during this whole isolation thing, congratulations. 
The loupes are lovely. The gold polishing cloth is magic. The mug is awesome. I have attached a photo of E07 with it. 
Have a great day, 
Stephen from Melbourne


Timascus Update: No. 17

"The insane intensity of Timascus"

Yes, this is the actual nickname of the seventeenth piece in our Timascus series which was snatched up within minutes of being assembled. 

Currently, No. 18 which is predominantly a green plasma pattern, is assembled and I expect it to be completed by the end of June. Right now, the only two Timascus watches in stock and ready for delivery are J013, and J015. 


Thursday, May 28, 2020

Seiko. Since 1881


There is no greater way to end the week than on a high note. This morning I got a letter from a Seiko owner. The bracelet on his trustworthy Seiko Cal. 7A28, finally gave up the ghost. And who can blame the poor thing - it had lasted over 35 years! The owner had contacted the Seiko service centre in Sydney and they replied with the following:

"The calibre is 7A28-703B and unfortunately we are no longer able to assist with that watch due to the exhaustion of our original spare parts.

You may however find that a watchmaker who can be sourced through the WCA (Watch & Clockmakers of Australia Inc.) website can assist. The WCA website is http://www.wca.org.au.  Once in the website you may need to click on the small circle on the top right hand corner to gain access to the Repairer Locator  where you can find Seiko Service Specialists https://wca.tidyhq.com/public/pages/wca-member-seiko-specialists or watch and clock repairers https://wca.tidyhq.com/public/pages/member-locator

These businesses often have residual stock of original parts or generic parts which enables them to undertake work where we cannot.  We have in the past referred people to the Watch and Clockmakers of Australia Inc and they were able to get their watch repaired.

Disclaimer note: The WCA is not associated in any technical or commercial way with the Seiko Australia P/L and we accept no responsibility of any kind whatsoever for the outcome of work carried out by their members.

The WCA website is http://www.wca.org.au

Regards
Customer Service – Client Contact" 

How uplifting an example of great customer service this is. Whilst Seiko can't help this time, they are still able to provide hope. The appreciation of WCA (a professional body for independent Australian watchmakers) was more than just respectful but a logical possible solution. Even the suggestion that repairing a bracelet with generic parts should be an acceptable outcome is encouraging. While we personally have no stock of Seiko parts, there is a possibility that our colleagues might have, and might be able to help.

If I were the recipient of Seiko's letter and owner of a Seiko watch I would be so pleased with the way my query was handled and, without a doubt, would consider buying a new Seiko watch. There is something gratifying about being a part of a great brand who which still stands at the very forefront of horology.

And I hear what you’re saying: why do Swiss brands still arrogantly refuse to offer you the same level of service? Why do they not see independent watchmakers as an important link in the horological chain; and why are they preventing us watchmakers from doing what we are trained for by restricting the supply of spare parts?

We are expecting a delivery of our Freedom to Make, Right to Repair mugs on Monday, and the first mug will be sent to the Seiko service people as a recognition of mutual respect.  

Well done comrade Hattori! 

Monday, May 25, 2020

Timascus Update: cutting the timascus with a diamond tool



Long story short, as Josh reports from Brookvale:

"No-one has ever cut timascus with a diamond, and that's what we are doing here- using diamond tools to make timascus perfectly flat. How flat? Below 1 micron over the length of 45mm flat bar. When we first reported this to machining community, some struggled to comprehend and accept or results. That was quickly 'sorted out' once the flatness of the machined bar was confirmed with digital measuring probe with resolution of 0.1 micron."

We have three videos on the link below, each just a few seconds in length, of measuring, light reflection on a lapped Timascus 3/4 bridge, and actual diamond cutting.

Check it out, and make sure you like it!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAeI9QmJneF/

Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Too old, too dumb, unwilling to invest - YouTube Live

Mark your diary, and set a reminder on your YouTube account for
Sunday 17th May, 10am AEST LIVE on YouTube.

Celebrating the 8th birthday of our Australian watchmaking project.
- 3 reasons why makers cannot quit.
- Freedom to make, Right to repair.
- Tour of our manufacturing facility
- Answering your questions: Live

*** UPDATE





Again, thank you to all those that tuned in yesterday for our live broadcast on YouTube. I have to say, I feel liberated for getting it off my chest. Our project started when I was 50 and Josh was not even 15, in desperation to prove a point and to make a firm stand. "Too old, too dumb and unwilling to invest" was an insult I could not live with. In this video, we talked about events and people who have helped us on our journey; the most heart breaking moment that almost crushed our spirit; and the small and major victories along the way. Of course, we are not there yet, but we are now finally FREE to peruse our dreams.

A big thank you goes to Rolex and other Swiss brands. Without you, this story could not be told.

Unscripted, raw, told as it is.

Watch the video by following the link here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hn_vuUbMWLM

Preserving Australian railway watches- one Pronto at a time


It is always great to start the week on a high note. We have discovered a second Pronto Quartz SRANSW watch (model ref #612-714-31). What a find! Full credit for this discovery goes to Bobby who found it on eBay.

There are three main differences between the #622-639 (on a brown strap), and the only other known model that we currently have is #612-714-31 (on a black strap).

- Both have very different case styles.
- The width of the hands on the 622 model are slightly thinner than the 612 model.
- The red print on the dial is bolder on the 622 model. 



There is no greater joy than preserving our horological history, one watch at a time. My dear subscribers I beg you to look for Australian Railway issued watches. If you see one, snatch it! Send me a photo so we can put it in our catalogue, and if you don't want to keep it for yourself let me know.                           

From Apprentice Corner: Brian Loomes

Brian Loomes is a horological historian, genealogist, and a prolific author and best-known expert on British clocks. As Britain's longest-established clock dealer, his name is known by everyone connected with antique clocks.

Through his own original research in ancient records into the life and work of clockmakers he has compiled thirty reference books and hundreds of articles about antique British clocks and their makers. Several of them have become definitive texts and are used as standard reference books by museums, libraries, auction houses and collectors the world over. So much so that even many of the terms today in general use to describe certain types of clock features were first coined in these books.

Brian Loomes is not a watchmaker by trade, but our young apprentices are expected to immerse themselves into the work of Loomes, discover his style, methodology, attention to detail, and relentless pursuit of penning down horological history which would otherwise remain unpreserved.

This week we are studying ‘The Concise Guide to British Clocks’, and our apprentices are required to write down technical words and terms they have not heard before. We discuss them the following day, and we learn together.

The first four words we discussed yesterday were:

Fusee
Hood pillar
Spandrels
Foliot


(These were Chloe's picks)

Do you know what these terms refer to, without looking them up? I have to admit, I tripped up on 'spandrels' and had to ask Bobby to look it up for us. Not to make any excuses, but if the word had been in context, I am sure I would have worked it out. If you too are struggling to work it out then here is a tip- there are four on the dial of a traditional English long case clock.                          

From Apprentice Corner: Book Review

Longitude by Dava Sobel

Longitude, by Dava Sobel is a short but no less fascinating read. The history revealed and timeline constructed, outline the trials and tribulations of mariners, scientists and astronomers alike in their quest to accurately measure longitude.

The concept of using a grid like system of coordinates to plot and chart any spot on the earth’s surface is owed in part to Ptolemy in his work Geographica of the 2nd century. These lines, latitude and longitude respectively, thereby can be used to not only chart but also navigate the open ocean with no landfall in sight. Latitude, the lines circling the girth of the earth, is calculated simply with skyward indicators in the positioning of the stars or sun. Longitude however began to be calculated utilising time comparison, given the angular nature of the lines as they circle the earth pole to pole. The mariners must have two ’times’ for their calculations, that of their current location (native time) and that of the pre-determined port of known longitudinal location. They needed a watch that they could carry on the boat and accurately and consistently tell the time of their destination port. Cue one of the greatest problems that persisted over almost 16 centuries to stump even the greatest minds, and the man who triumphed in creating a solution to which there was no contest and the ramifications that we still use today.

The catalyst that formed the tipping point for the longitude problem was the 1707 tragedy. Admiral Sir Clowdesley Shovel was the head of a British fleet that, due to miscalculations that were prevalent at the time, dashed and sunk four warships against the rock of Scilly Isles and lost more than 1600 lives to the mistake. In response a parliamentary committee was formed and the parliament in 1714 passed the 'Longitude Act' offering £20,000 for a viable solution. The wining solution was one that had accuracy within a singular half degree, approximately 30miles, on a journey from England to the West Indies.

The great many ideas for solutions across the centuries were either mechanical (clock) or astronomical. Ranging from celestial patterns, tracking the moon's path across the sky in relation to stars, or the four known moons of Jupiter. The mechanical clock method relied on the time difference equation with a clock bearing the destination port time and the local time noted at noon, thereby calculating for every hour apart, there is 15 degrees of longitude between the ship and destination.

Newton himself noted a small watch would be ideal however he saw the possibility of an astronomical solution as more giving. It wasn't until 1727 when a self-educated village man of carpentry and watchmaking skills caught wind of the prize potential. By 1730 this man, named John Harrison, already had substance enough plans to share them with Edmund Halley, a board member who encouraged Harrison and connected him with another Society member who specialised in clockmaking. Five years later Harrison had a clock (H1) that tested well on its maiden voyage of Lisbon. Harrison, taken by the possibilities of his own idea built another chronometer, namely H2, in just 5 years. His second clock was given more accolades than the first however Harrison being a man of not science but watchmaking and carpentry, was self-driven to achieve not the best but his best, and this he took twenty years to build another chronometer, H3.

As Harrison's instruments became more accurate and reliably more suitable, so did the contending astronomical solutions,  just as the intrigue did for with more scientific minds wanted their idea not Harrison's to succeed. Chiefly against Harrison was Nevil Maskelyne, Astronomer Royal, and he pursued testing on Harrison's clocks and at each point attempted to thwart his efforts in the name of having a more scientific solution despite the brilliance of Harrison's chronometers. Despite this after completion of the third watch and receiving of the Copley Gold Medal (1749), a fourth pocket version was completed, tested and proven on the West Indies trip that was requirement. Despite this board did not immediately award the prize as they had in Harrison's absence of making, become focused on other methods that proved not as accurate but still viable. 1765 was when they finally awarded only half the total prize and moved the goal posts again for Harrison, and demanded he create duplicates to prove the replicability of his watches, as well as ordering a secondary watchmaker to produce a duplicate. Harrison would not receive the final prize amount until 1773. The true prize More than 5,000 ship chronometers would be used by 1815.

Marine chronometers are now regarded and appreciated worldwide as priceless collectors items. After reading Longitude, I got to see a marine chronometer from 1841. The craftsmanship behind the chronometer really made me want to develop the skills so that I can one day sit in front of a historical timepiece not just in admiration, but know how to disassemble, adjust, reassemble, and if needed make a replacement part. This is a watchmaker's dream.