Monday, August 17, 2020

Seiko DIY disassembly and reassembly tutorial: Chapter 3.


Pulling the watch mechanism apart is not difficult at all - especially if you handle the components with care.
The most delicate of all is the balance wheel assembly which consists of 3 parts: the large and heavy balance cock, balance wheel and rather super delicate hair spring. This is the very heart of the watch - one slip of a screwdriver, sudden move or flip over and the heart is gone.

Yet if you watch the video you will see how it's done. And yes, this delicate operation can be performed successfully even by a hobbyist as long as the instructions are followed and the process is understood.

Again, there is a bit of a homework: sorting out and identifying the screws. There are 5 types of screws and while they are small, all of them are distinctively different. Easy.

Even if you are not a part of the Seiko DIY group, you should really watch this short video. Educational, fast paced and to the point.

https://youtu.be/pemubwobtjo
And if you do wish to join our Yahoo group, here is the link:
 https://groups.io/g/7s26

Friday, August 14, 2020

Seiko Day / Date disc disassembly

 

Featuring: Why Seiko makes plastic wheels? How to pull apart calendar work and how to handle plastic parts.

If you are a watch owner then you will love it. The watch mechanism is a miracle of mechanical engineering and precision. Watch parts are light, well made and not easy to handle so taking a good care of your watch is essential. 

The bottom line is this: if you watch the video and conclude 'not a big deal, I can surely do it' than this mean our tutorial works. And yes, you should do it. 

Watch here:
https://youtu.be/-C9nSzN2Kak

Yes, you can do it!

 

There is no doubt that face to face gathering wont resume any time soon. Especially so, our Watchmaking classes.
Yet strangely enough, 'thanks' to coronavirus, our classes are now moving to YouTube. 

Yes, you can do it. Actually, any technically minded person willing to follow straightforward instructions will be able to complete our course. Once again, we are pulling apart a trustworthy Seiko 5 fitted with a 7S26 movement - the pride and joy of Japanese horology. A simple 'no frills ' watch which you will get to know inside and out. As we say, nothing beats that special feeling of being able to tell the world that YOU have pull a watch apart - and put it back together - yourself. 

This instalment is just under 10 minutes and Andrew and myself are showing how to take the mechanism out of the case, then to remove stem, hands and dial. Your feedback is needed: feel free to let us know if the tutorial is easy to follow and are you able to see clearly what is going on.

Of course, there are many 'pull apart' watch videos on YouTube, but our course is different: we are real watchmakers with unparalleled interest in helping you to complete the course. 

Watch it here: https://youtu.be/sXh9DJ9aOlc

Monday, August 10, 2020

Test yourself - Do you have an attention to detail?

The video starts with a question: Do you have an attention to detail? Then, we show you an image and you have to figure out what's not quite right with the object presented.

If you can figure it out, then - CONGRATULATIONS - you possess efficient allocation of cognitive resources in order to identify and process the relevant elements of an issue, task or dimension. Or as we say: you are watchmaking material.

(If you've got it - do let us know in the comments)

This video is called 'How to sharpen and shape watchmakers' screwdrivers and it is a pre-requirement for our Seiko online course. 

Test yourself here: 
https://youtu.be/_Gz0v7OC1lY

Thursday, August 6, 2020

Workshop Update

Another important milestone: all 10 components of the three quarter bridge assembly of NH2 are now designed and made in-house. The project started with development of the ratchet wheel and from there we moved to click and click spring, crown wheel and crown wheel hat , all held down by four different types of screws.

While our parts are CNC machined for precision,  many hours are spent on hand finishing and polishing. All these skills are homegrown and for the first time in the history of Australia we have the live and kicking prototype of what one day is going to be a true in-house watch mechanism.

As promised: Horology Do-It-Yourself

The first ten essential watchmaking tools that will get you started.

One rule here: buy the best tools you can afford - and buy them from someone you can trust. 

The recommendation list is a result of decades 'behind the bench' experience you can only get from a practising Master Watchmaker.
Yes, we do have tools to sell, but the purpose of this video is not to sell you the tools, but to make your life easier by pointing you in the right direction. It's all here: suppliers, tool numbers, prices and more.
 
Only 4 minutes long, it's a must watch.

https://youtu.be/2tAMDxMqqy8

Note: a company in Queensland that has been selling 'Nicholas Hacko' branded watchmaking tool kits, has been doing so without my approval or consent. The only tools that I personally recommend are the tools featured in this video.

"This is the only thing grandpa took with him when he left Berlin". No pressure...

If you wondered why you didn't get the newsletter since Thursday: well there wasn't one sent. We had simply run out of time recording the new 'behind the bench' video. As the person in charge of our YouTube, Bobby came up with a plan to install a 2.5 kg camera right over the bench which would allow us to film above the bench shots. That required a mini crane and some fine balancing, but once we assembled the rig, the rigidity and balancing was even better than expected. So we got carried away recording the restoration of a 1910 Glashütter pocket watch.
The restoration was one of the most difficult projects recently undertaken. The entire watch was completely gummed up. Fifty or sixty years ago, it was over-lubricated with the wrong oil. It was most likely one containing animal fat (which was not that uncommon back then).  Not a single gear could move - despite the fact that the main spring was still fully coiled. Dissembling the watch 'under full power' is a recipe for disaster, but there was simply no other way of doing it.  I am not going to spoil your enjoyment, but you should definitely take a moment and watch the video.

https://youtu.be/IW26ur2XEsE 
This week we will start transferring our Seiko DIY project onto YouTube. This is a project for hobbyists who want to take up watchmaking as a hobby.  Over the years thousands of students all over the world undertook our online course and managed to disassemble and reassemble their Seiko.  I am still receiving complimentary emails from happy students. Since we now have enough man power to create YouTube videos, this mini video series called 'Seiko for novice horologists' will soon be available online. The first chapter starts with a list of recommended tools and quick show and tell on how to sharpen the screwdrivers properly. For investment of around $300-$400 in tools, you would be on your way in no time. I can not recommend a better hobby for anyone regardless of age, gender or your skill level- than watchmaking.  Every step of disassembly and reassembly will be recorded and explained in detail so there is no doubt that it can be done. The secret? Patience following instructions, quality tools and plenty of light.

The sense of accomplishment once your Seiko is reassembled is simply overwhelming.  Even if you lose or break a part that would be just a temporary hurdle. Most Seiko parts are still available so there is no reason not to complete the project. Just to point out the obvious: an investment in quality watchmaking tools is a priceless investment in itself.

Stay tuned for more! 

Behind the bench

I have just uploaded a two minute video showing day 1 of the restoration project of an 1860's gold pocket watch. The mechanism contains over 120 components and features a stop watch and minute repeater function. Every single component is hand finished and the quality of workmanship is simply amazing. These are not ordinary parts, these are actually some of the most difficult components to make due to their complex geometry. The disassembly and assessment of the quarter repeater took 6 hours. The watch came in with a broken minute wheel which was made in our workshop. 

The main challenge is the removal of the surface rust which effects almost every steel component in the watch. 

This video is only two minutes long so please check it out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqGlZRtZ8Rg&feature=youtu.be

The Art of Guilloché

Guilloché 
(/ɡɪˈloʊʃ/; or guilloche) 


is a decorative technique in which a very precise, intricate and repetitive pattern is mechanically engraved into an underlying material via engine turning, which uses a machine of the same name, also called a rose engine lathe.

Today, only a handful of specialist guillocheur, outside of Switzerland, make the watch dials following the traditional methods on vintage hand operated rose-engines. Joshua Shapiro from California  is one of those artisans. 

Last year Joshua needed assistance with slicing meteorite for his new dial project-  we were happy to help.  We also made a number of rather intricate racks for his straight guilloche machine. He is a fine young man and we continue to collaborate offering our machining skills and capabilities.

His latest project was the 'Infinity watch' which generated global interest. The entire batch was sold out. The prices for the steel version was USD$21,000 and gold $29,000. He is currently busy designing and making parts for his in-house mechanism.

Horology Raw & Uncut, 57 minutes interview with Josh Shapiro is a must watch for any watch enthusiasts - especially is you are interest to learn more about guilloche dial making, rose engine and history of the craft. 

Watch it here: https://youtu.be/6APYt2UaA54
If you subscribe to our YouTube channel, you will help us grow. Our intention is to introduce you to some of the most eminent independent horologist.
Make sure to like us and leave your comment. Thank you.                         

Monday, July 27, 2020

Transfer of Knowledge

"Never teach apprentices tricks of the trade - because they'll leave you and become your competition!"
Quite frankly, I doubt any subscriber to this newsletter would subscribe to this nonsense.

The real question is: when is the right time to allow apprentices to undertake more challenging repairs? Of course, that entirely depends on two things: apprentices desire to learn more than expected, and teacher's willingness to allocate more of his time to a keen student.

The heavily damaged steel Rolex bracelet is kind of job reserved for Michael who is now in his second year. He can do bracelet restoration and polishing with minimum supervision. However, the job itself is not overly difficult for anyone willing to follow instructions, have a keen eye for detail. Especially so when there is no need to complete the task in any particular time frame.

I had no doubt that Chloe, who has been with us for just over 2 months is now ready for her first Rolex bracelet.
Yes, it took her over 3 hours to complete the polishing: the deep scratches were filed out with diamond Valorbe file and then each link was hand polished with various grades of sand paper. The final brush finish was done on rotary 'graining' wheel. Of course, this was highly supervised job and at times, it was required to demonstrate how various media affects the finishes, and how to 'sculpture' the steel by following existing contours or how much pressure to apply; when to pause and most importantly - when to stop.

The overall result is rather pleasing and there is no doubt that the customer is going to be happy with the end result. Quite frankly, important victories like this one is what builds the confidence. Respect to big brands - of course, but to tremble in fear - never!

The Long Now

The Ise Jingu grand shrine in Japan is built of wood and leaves and it is 1500 years old. Yet today, it looks like it was built yesterday! The secret of this longevity, which retains this 'new' look, is based on a rather peculiar fact: every 20 years, the temple is dismantled and torn down - only
to be rebuilt again on the same property. The process of rebuilding has been completed 62 times with the latest in 2013. There is a forest around the shrine area that is considered sacred that covers 13,600 acres that is used for some materials to construct the new shrine. About 222 acres of this forest haven't been touched since the shrine was first established. Any trees used for the shrine are cut down in a special ceremony and floated down a sacred river to the construction site.

In order for trees to be of a suitable size to be used for the shrine, they have to grow for hundreds of years and the builders of the shrine use techniques passed down from generation to generation. The symbiosis is obvious:  the religion needs followers who will remain together for ever, and the ritual of building and tearing down, which cycles every 20 years, provides both spiritual and practical meaning to religion. And there is one significant element to this tradition: perpetual preservation of builders' skills which are passed on from generation to generation. Clearly, a young apprentice builder would be part of the first shrine rebuild in his twenties, in his forties he would be at his peak of strength and at his sixties, at the third rebuild, he would be master builder.

Similarities with our watchmaking project are numerous. If my decision to start the project at the age of 50 was to be based on 'showcasing watchmaker's talent and genius', I would be too old before a first
masterpiece would be assembled - if ever. Quite frankly, I would most likely give up because it would take decades to develop the skills required to produce a masterpiece. Yet for the fact that the brand started with a rather humble and very affordable watch which can be put together and sold to a sufficient number of 'followers', and for the obvious fact that such watches would require regular maintenance every five years, we are now in a position to train apprentices and pass on whatever knowledge we have, and prepare the ground for that next generation of talented ones to take the 'Manufactured in Australia' project to the next level.

Yes, 'Manufactured in Australia' is nothing but religion which requires adherence to strict rules of horological perfection built over generations. The good news is that the ingredients are already here: the seed of watchmaking knowledge developed over 3 generations, the apprentices, tools and machinery, and one day - the dedicated Mittagong workshop which will nicely tie it all together.   Which brings us to the most peculiar aspect of the project: one who wants to call himself an Australian Watchmaker must embrace the mindset of tradition and determination of 'The Long Now' - of which neither exist in Australia. Or more precisely - not yet.

There is no other option

Once again we have no choice but take our destiny into our own hands.

The print media is dead and commercial television is gone. And if you have a story to tell, then you have to share it online.

Remember the Qantas magazine? Remember the two hundred page Sydney Morning Herald weekend issue, a sophisticated paper loaded with news, stories, events, exciting products and thousands of houses for sale, ten thousands cars, countless holiday destinations, music and arts, business news and politics?

Today, SMH offers ten pages of yesterday's news and twenty pages of horse racing 'articles'. An unsophisticated broadsheet for unsophisticated readers. Irrelevant, soon to be gone forever.

And even in its current, below the common denominator and common sense level, no main stream media would publish a story about a maker or a thinker - because their readers could not care less. Surely, one can be published in 'Luxury insert' - for $10,000 per half page. But even if money is not an issue, being 'interviewed 'by a journalist who could not care about you, or your story, or your product'- let alone about the big picture or fine horology is simply unbearable. Why should I pay $10,000 for the privilege to
talk about horology with someone who knows absolutely nothing about the watchmaking and everything about Swiss Megabrands and have that story shared with unsophisticated audience?

We have no other choice but to reach to smart people who care. And this is why YouTube is the way to go.

Independent watchmaking is a big story and a big project of global relevance and importance. There are many watchmakers, horologists, machinists, makers, craftsmen and artisans who, like us, have no platform to voice their cause and present their beautiful watches - except on the media channels they have created themselves. And we are now doing the same.

However, our goal is not to talk about ourselves, but about our fellow watchmakers. To allow them to share their stories. To open their hearts and workshops to those who care - you and me.

Yes, the quality of our videos is rather pedestrian, the quality of verbal expression is rudimental and vocabulary at times just elementary. But for those who care, the message will come through loud and clear: it is about an endless pursuit for perfection, learning, improvement, and creativity. It's raw and uncut, honest, and we tell it as it is- the way you like it.

Today, my guests are two craftsman- two young men who are currently making some of the most fascinating one-of-a-kind watches. Actually, to call those mechanical timepieces watches would be too simple. 
Michal Molnar and Igor Fabry come from the country where watchmaking has never really existed. They have self-taught themselves jewellery making, watchmaking, engraving, stone setting and polishing in a short span of ten or so years. Today, they collaborate with most eminent Swiss movement makers and equally passionately remake masterpieces of the golden era of horology.

As neither of us three come from an English speaking background, it was tempting to edit the interview and 'clean' it for the viewer's convenience. But we made decision to leave the entire recording as is, raw and uncut. And even if choice of words or expressions would be perfect, the words themselves are irrelevant: their masterpieces speak for themselves.

For your enjoyment: https://youtu.be/rMDrHH_31PM

A special 'thank you' to all of you who now follow us on YouTube. The channel now has over 1,000 subscribers which is rather important milestone. 

Raw and Uncut: Interview with Dan Spitz

Dan Spitz is a third generation Master Watchmaker. He remembers sitting on his Grandfather’s lap in his watch and jewellery store in the Catskill Mountains of New York when he was eight years old staring at the inside of a Patek Philippe in amazement. Yet the road to independent haute horology took a few bends – from being a cofounder of heavy metal group Anthrax, 40 million records sold, Grammy nominations; to decades of touring the world spreading his love for metal.
Nowadays, at his watchmaking studio, Dan quietly shapes different metals. Passionately and persistently, making his mark on time.

Two minds in one body, outspoken, raw and uncut.

For your enjoyment: https://youtu.be/O8TILPabzxs

[Make sure to comment, like and subscribe to our YouTube channel]

You've asked for it - and here it is:

Here is a short tutorial on 'how to remove an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch bracelet' off its case.

It's easy. You can do it. No fancy tools required.

With a bit of practice, you will be able to replace your Omega bracelet with a leather strap or NATO in no time.
Or, simply to remove it for periodical cleaning.

Putting the bracelet back on is even easier.

My tool of choice: a humble screwdriver with 1.40 mm blade.

Link to video: https://youtu.be/E4psVmJBRFo

Link to screwdriver suitable for Moonwatch bracelet's spring-loaded bar: https://shop.clockmaker.com.au/home/110-bergeon-screwdriver-14mm-ref-30080-06.html

PLEASE make sure to like it - and to subscribe to our YouTube channel. Thank you kindly.                          

Monday, July 13, 2020

Sydney Auction scene 2020: What a joke!

Yesterday I was bidding over the phone on a 1850 regulator clock - sight unseen. The clock was in typical distressed condition: complete, but in desperate need of restoration. Starting with the mechanism itself, to the silver dial and the mahogany case. All three major components would require specialists work. Think thousands of dollars and months of hard labour.

The clock was auctioned by Sydney auction house which specializes in pretty much everything- from vintage cars, wine and furniture to even diamonds. The pre-auction estimate was $5,000- $10,000 but on Sunday morning, a couple hours before the auction, the lot was listed with a new estimate of $10,000- $20,000.

$10K was as far as I was prepared to go. Beyond that figure, there would be no joy of either acquiring the clock for stock or adding it to my private collection. In addition, a hefty 25% + GST buyer's premium would turn a ten thousand dollar bid into $13,000 purchase.

The bidding was fierce and in no time I was bidding against at least two bidders, sitting on $12,500. It was time to pull out. I like the clock but at $16,000 I had no choice but to let someone else have the joy of the restoration.

Losing at an auction is not a big deal, especially not so on a lazy Sunday morning. But I did end up a bit upset. The auctioneer acted as if he was on drugs. Auctioning a fine antique clock like calling a finish of Melbourne Cup was extremely annoying. And completely unnecessary. Not to mention the obvious: thanks to corona, the auction room was empty and bidders were competing simultaneously online and over the phone. I could not see what was going on in the room, who is placing the bids against me, at what speed and pace, or even if those bids were imaginary or real.

And my goodness - the 30% buyers premium is simply criminal. Mind you - there is a sellers premium as well, which most likely is 25% too. Which means that on $10,000 sale auction house makes $5,500 profit. That is a huge amount of money taking in to consideration zero investment in stock, zero risk and zero guarantee on sold items. Not to mention that almost every item that ends at auction would either have no provenance, would require restoration, repair or even just polishing and that there is no guarantee on authenticity or any guarantee on performance - whatsoever.

No names - but there is another auction house in Sydney which persistently advertises "Fine jewellery and watches  recovered by Australian Federal Police". The modus operandi is simple: generate as much hype, in hope that sensationalist media would pick it up and turn it into a 'story'.

Like this one:
“From today they're auctioning off recovered fine jewellery from the proceeds of crime for 70% off.

If you consider yourself a bit of a bargain hunter, true crime buff or just have a penchant for bling, it’s quite literally your lucky day.

Running from today until May 17th, the Australian Federal Police are auctioning off a bunch of recovered fine jewellery and watches via [deleted] for a song.

Without leaving the comfort of your lounge you’ll be able to pick up a luxury piece from the likes of Cartier, Bvlgari, Tiffany or Rolex, through an online auction for up 80% less than its retail value.”


Note the loaded narrative: crime, bargains, luxury, police, 80% less, Rolex and Cartier. Who can resist?

In reality, while all this could be true, most likely your chances of picking a bargain are painfully slim. Notoriously, such ‘recovery items’ are often used just to sparkle the otherwise ordinary stock, which could be a mix of private items, retail or jewellers wholesale stock-  and who knows what else.

I really admire auctioneers who are experts in everything from needles to locomotives. And when one day that Rolex ‘proceed of crime bought for a song’ ends up at a Rolex service centre for an overhaul, you may be in for a surprise.

“Auctions” in the time of Covid are for bored fools with deep pockets. If you can’t attend it in person and bid in person, don’t waste your time. If you do end up as a ‘winner’, most likely, you’ve paid too much. And if you got it for a song, then you are probably tone deaf.

Bottom line: buy new and enjoy the pride of ownership. Preowned is fine – only when bought from a reputable expert you can trust. Everything else – at your own risk.                         

Reclaiming the horology

A few weeks ago we started the project titled 'Horology Raw and Uncut'. Essentially, a series of interviews with watchmakers and clockmakers who share their stories. Last night, my guest was Mike Cardew. Electronics engineer by trade, Mike got into watchmaking perusing his passion for design and making. There is so much I like about him: he is focused, productive, creative and unorthodox. He uses tools which he has at his disposal and incorporates watch parts sourced from other timepieces into his own made main plates, bridges and cases. Cardew Watches is a ‘company’ which makes watches but as Mike says, does not have customers – only ‘people I like’. You will be surprised to learn what happens to Mike’s watches once assembled.

Yes, horology comes in all sorts of shapes and sizes. There is no doubt that you will find this interview inspirational – especially if you like to make your own things – whatever they are.

When you like our YouTube videos, you are not paying homage to me personally, but to my guests who are creative and extraordinary craftsman in their own right. ‘HRU’ videos are created as documents and documentaries to be preserved for the future, not as an advertisement for business or a product. Please subscribe to our YouTube channel and help us grow so we can provide more exciting content in the future. Our immediate goal is to reach 1000 subscribers!

A special ‘thanks’ goes to our apprentice Bobby for post-recording production- without him, the 'Horology Raw and Uncut' project would not be possible.

To watch the video go to: https://youtu.be/MFSRAxXrsQ8