Freebies From SAVE-THE-TIME.ORG

The ‘series of unfortunate events’ that have occurred over the past couple of weeks turned out to be of great benefit and, for me, it was a rare opportunity to step out of ‘business as usual’.

The phone has been running off the hook (and the fax too!). It was so nice to talk to fellow watchmakers from almost every corner of Australia. Support from New Zealand however was both totally overwhelming and unexpected; once again it has shown that our Kiwi colleagues are facing the same problems. We also received a tremendous amount of email support from the US, Canada, Europe and even few Asian countries. 

“You don’t know me, but I just want to say that I completely agree (with your campaign) and want to support Save The Time.” Was the opening line to just one of the telephone conversations I received last week. Although the caller and I have never met, it seemed we both shared so so much in common. 

“It is good to see that someone out there actually does care about us” was another common comment.  Yes, someone does care about you – a bunch of us- a bunch of your fellow watchmakers and many more watch enthusiasts, collectors and watch owners!

Yes, there are a number of people and organisations out there who couldn’t care less if you quietly packed your tools, cleaned your work bench and closed the ‘last watch repair shop’ in town, never again to train an apprentice. Despite years behind the bench, they tell you that you are incompetent to repair even the simplest ‘brand name’ quartz movement. That you, as an independent watch repairer, are too old to be trained, that your work shop is ‘not up to standard’ and that you no longer belong to the world of modern watchmaking. They have  rendered you basically useless.

Fellow watchmakers: don’t waste even a minute of your precious time listening to such nonsense!

If you call yourself a watchmaker and make honest living repairing watches, then you are nothing but an asset to the watch industry! 

You are an asset to your family, your customers and your country – no matter where you are.

And we do care about you.

Every day, I receive a number of phone calls and emails form watch owners who are looking for a local independent watchmaker. “Can you recommend someone in Melbourne who can overhaul my vintage watch? I am calling from Adelaide – there is only one shop here and they are not really proper watchmakers – can you help?  I need an urgent battery replacement, Easter suburbs, the “brand name” service takes 5 weeks and I am in a hurry”. Another similar email just arrived in my inbox as I’m typing: “I have a replacement crown, I just need a watchmaker to install it and take the case back off my watch so I can photograph the movement”. Yes, maybe a small job, and maybe not what you have been trained to do but nevertheless a priceless service that no one else can offer – but YOU!

There is plenty of work out there, but most of us are too slow to embrace new ways of doing business. The time for change is long overdue and that change must start from us, from within the trade.

Save-the-time.org is here for you, and we want to help you to attract new customers and grow your business.

We believe that talk is cheap. Here is what we can do for you right now, FREE of charge:

   We are compiling a WATCHMAKER DIRECTORY: a listing of independent watch repairers both in Australia and worldwide. This listing is specifically designed to showcase your repair business. When you send an email to register you will receive a FREE listing showing your contact details, email address and a brief description of what you can offer your customers. The listing will have a photo of your shop and a FREE link to your website! 

-   To register, fill-in the form in PDF or .DOC format by clicking these links and email it to register@save-the-time.org

Remember there are hundreds and maybe even thousands of customers looking for you right now, but to them you may be invisible.

-    
You are not only invisible to customers, but to watch spare parts suppliers! For that reason, we have created a SUPPLIERS DIRECTORY.
 

There are number of suppliers who, like you, are struggling to sell their product and who desperately need your business. You must start placing orders with those suppliers. Just because you cannot source parts for some brand name watches doesn’t mean you can’t offer an alternative solution.

SUPPLIERS: please also take advantage of our listing. We appreciate your support to the industry and we are happy to offer you a FREE listing too. Please fill in the registry form here in .PDF or .DOC format. 

FREE access to thousands of watch enthusiasts to showcase your independent watch business!

We will not sell your email address to our subscribers, we’ll offer you something much better: an opportunity to submit your watch related articles.

Our subscribers are hungry for quality content! Writing an article for a mailing list or blog is actually much easier than you think. We are looking for quality content: your expert’s story, opinion, advice, tip or explanation about anything watch related! 

Quite frankly, true watch enthusiasts are fed up with ‘brand name’ propaganda from glossy magazines, so called watch forums infested with anonymous trolls and so-called watch experts who have never actually seen the watch movement or who don’t have a clue what a balance staff is! If there’s one area where we can beat big brand names hands down, then it’s with the fact that we have countless years of real ‘behind the bench’ experience working on everything from Poljot to Patek, from regulators to complex repeaters.

You can no longer wait for someone else out there to change your destiny. There is no alternative:  we will either start doing things ‘properly’ or we will disappear like Tassie tigers.

Finally, a little personal gift to you, just to cheer you up and to once again show you that we do care about you: the most talked about Save The Time T-shirt:

Save-The-Time.org is giving YOU a FREE t-shirt!

Wear it with pride or frame it and display it in your shop as a symbol of your determination to fight for YOUR business.

Yes, in a few days we will have 100 shirts to give away.

50 shirts will be allocated to watchmakers and watch suppliers who register for either the Save The Time watchmaker or suppler directory.

An additional 50 shirts will be given away to the first 50

newsletter subscribers to email us back.

Simply fill-in the form here in .PDF or .DOC format and request “I want that super cool shirt right now”.

BE QUICK!

We do understand that some of our subscribers would prefer to receive a Save The Time t-shirt the old-fashioned way, by placing an order. While we are not really in the business of selling t-shirts, a limited quantity of 20 shirts will be available for those who wish to support the Save The Time project . If this is you then please fill in the second part of the form and tell us what the coolest watch shirt is worth to you.

Regardless of the way you intend to claim the shirt - as a supplier, watchmaker, subscriber, or buyer – please make sure to let us know your SHIRT SIZE!

All shirts are made by Fruit of the Loom using 100% cotton and are available in black. 

This shirt is a symbol of people working together for a common benefit.

*** New arrivals: April 16, 2012.

       Again, my apology to hard-core subscribers who are desperately awaiting new watch arrivals: please bear with us just a few days longer! We have a nice pile of goodies waiting to be listed: a stunning  Lange 233.026 18K WG, Omega Speedmaster Missions 3597.03 Gemini V 1965 mission patch, an Omega black /white gold bezel Seamaster XL size, a Breitling Navitimer, Breitling Navitimer twin 36, Breitling Superocean black chrono, 3x Omega Speedmasters , a Panerai Submersible, Panerai Radiomir and Panerai PAM005 logo (brand new condition), an Omega Railmaster XXL, a lovely Rolex President double quick set 18K YG, and a Heuer Monaco limited edition – plus a few more!

Stolen Watches

Newsletter archive | 11th April 2012 

Mail from one of my subscribers: 

Hi Nick, I am a customer and have purchased a couple of cheaper 
watches from you and appreciated the value and the service.

Can you tell me how dealers  protect yourself and customers from the 
reselling of stolen watches?

I ask because over Easter thieves entered my home and stole my prized 
IWC Portuguese Chrono Rose Gold watch...I am devastated to know that 
this beautiful watch will be in a dealers or pawn shop or even worse 
on E-Bay shortly and a buyer will take the sellers word that it's 
their property...

Regards,

D.U.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi David,

Sorry to hear about your loss.

If the watch ends up with honest second hand dealer then this would be your best chance for recovery.

All second hand dealers are required to submit watch serial numbers and sellers details to the police within 24 hours. The Police will then keep details on file and match the watch details with their database of stolen watches.
When a dealer buys a watch from a member of the public, it is considered to be at the dealer's own risk, and this system works well. Plus a dealer would never buy a watch from someone who refuses to disclose his details and sign a declaration of ownership.

Unfortunately most stolen watches are 'exported' overseas

or sold online. Private buyers and sellers are not required to

report or register deals to police.

However, dealing in stolen goods is a criminal offense, even when

the purchase is made 'in good faith'.

In your particular case: you should contact the police as soon as possible,

in writing, and provide watch details -

full description, any unique properties and serial / model reference numbers.

Here are couple of tips

- Always keep all the receipts

- Have the watch valued for insurance purpose

- Have the watch insured

- Store it in a safe place.

- Be smart! Don't leave the watch unattended or on sight; even if you are     leaving the house for just short period of time.

In the case of burglary, the first things that will be stolen are watches, jewellery and cash.

Nick

The Tassie Tiger: An Animal Like No Other

*** Plenty of kangaroos and wombats - but no tigers! 

The Tasmanian tiger is one of the most fabled animals in the world.
Yet, despite its fame, it is one of the least understood.
European settlers were puzzled by it, feared it and killed it when they could.
But things went from bad to worse when Tasmanian Government encouraged sheep farmers to hunt and kill.
By 1910, this beautiful animal had been pushed to the brink of extinction.

The tiger was shy and secretive and always avoided contact with humans.
Despite being called a tiger it had a quiet temperament.
Captured animals generally gave up without a struggle and many died suddenly, from shock.
 
On September 7th 1936 the last captured tiger died alone, in a dirty cage of Hobart zoo.
 
Yes, the Tassie tiger was an animal like no other.
 
Recently I attended a children’s birthday party. Chatting, hopping from topic to topic,
the discussion got heated when someone asked "if you could go back in time, where would you go?"
 
She was 5 or maybe 6. In her proudest voice, she stopped the crowd:
"I would go and save Tasmanian tiger. I would smash his cage,
hug him, take him home, call him Ricky and he will be my best friend forever".
 
Yes, true activists are born, not bred!
 
Sometimes being close to the issue can be counter-productive.
And what seems right to me may not necessarily seem right to you.
 
The decision to call a few of my colleagues and discuss common trade issues was
not high on my priority list. Watchmakers are busy people and, like Tassie tigers,
generally shy and secretive.
Yet to get a clearer picture and perhaps a more objective one, I had no
choice but to pick up the phone and let them talk.
 
Interview time was limited to 5 minutes.


*** 

CARL PARKER, master watchmaker, Sydney.

Mr. Parker, as a typical independent watchmaker… Well, I don’t really think I’m typical. But independent Australian watchmaker, definitely yes.
 
Would you describe yourself as a professional watchmaker? Yes, I’ve been an instructor for the Swiss watch industry for 20 years.
 
And how long have you been in the watch repair business? Since 1972 (40 years).
 
And what is the core nature of your business? We repair high grade wrist watches, clocks, music boxes and barometers.
 
So you would have no problem repairing a mechanical watch like, for example, a Rolex Datejust? No, not at all.
 
But do you have access to Rolex spare parts? No.
 
Can you get parts for Cartier? No.
 
How about Breitling? No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?

One.

And how many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia? One.
 
Carl, thank you for taking time to answer these questions.


*** 

THOMAS CZIBIULA, master watchmaker, Sydney 
 
Mr. Czibula, as many of our subscribers know, you run an independent watch repair business in Sydney CBD. Yes, I’ve been repairing watches for 37 years now.
 
So you are a professional watchmaker? Yes. I’m a European-trained master watchmaker specialising in mechanical watches. I offer repair service to both individual customers and companies.
 
Based on your experience and skills would you be able to overhaul an automatic wrist watch like Rolex Datejust? Yes, of course.
 
Do you have access to Rolex spare parts or an account with Rolex Australia?
No.
 
Can you get spare parts from Cartier/Richemont group? No.
 
How about Breitling?
No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?

Officially, none. Unofficially one, my son.
 
How many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia?
Unfortunately none.


***  

JOAL SANTOS, master watchmaker, Sydney.
 
Mr. Santos, thank you for taking time to answer a couple of questions for our readers. Can you tell us a bit about yourself? I started my watch repair career in Europe. I was trained by Swiss Ebauch Group.
 
So you consider yourself to be a professional watchmaker? Yes. I’ve been working with watches for 40 years. I started my apprenticeship at the age of 12.
 
What kind of repairs do you do? I repair high-grade watches.
 
So you have no problem repairing a mechanical watch, a Rolex Datejust, for example? No, not at all. I would consider this a simple repair job.
 
But do you have access to Rolex spare parts?  
No. My account with Rolex was closed in 2005. 
 
Can you get spare parts from Cartier/Richemont group? No.
 
How about Breitling? No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?  
Two.
 
And how many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia?  
Two.
 

***   

MAX SCHWEIZER, master watchmaker, Sydney.
 
Mr. Schweizer is one of the most reputable and well respected watchmakers not only amongst watch enthusiasts but also within the watch trade itself. I have to admit I did not feel comfortable asking Max for interview. As a native Swiss and long-time authorized Rolex serviceman, I thought he would have no interest in answering questions which could put him in compromising position. Nevertheless, I made a phone call to his workshop early morning.
 
Mr. Schweizer, would you describe yourself as a professional watchmaker?  
Yes.
 
How long have you been in the watch servicing business?  
Hmm, I need to do some math’s for that one…Since 1965, 47 years! I was born in Switzerland and trained as a watchmaker with Eterna. I was then sent to train watchmakers in Nairobi, Africa. In 1975 I got a new job as a Rolex instructor in Cairo. After arriving in Australia I started my independent watch repair business.
 
Repairing high grade Swiss watches?  
Yes.
 
Would you consider the repair on a watch, such as a Rolex Datejust, a straightforward job?  

Yes, of course.
 
So, you probably have access to Rolex spare parts, right?  
Actually no, I don't. My account with Rolex Australia was closed at the end of March 2012.
Six months ago I received a letter from Rolex informing me that my account was to be closed. 
 
This is shocking news. What was your reaction?
 
Unfortunately it is true. My wife and I spent the best years of our life working for the brand. We were loyal to Rolex. We are still in a state of disbelief. Until we received the letter, the thought never crossed our mind that this would happen. With just one year before retirement, it is difficult to find rational explanation for such a decision.
 
At this point of the interview, I felt it unsuitable to proceed further as the closure of Max Schweizer’s Rolex account has evidently caused him much distress. However I thought it necessary to inquire about the other brands: 
Can you get spare parts from Cartier/Richemont group?

No.

How about Breitling?

No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?

Three
 
How many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia?

Only one is currently working independently in the watch trade.  

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------                                                  

***
I guess the true reason for not wanting to talk to watchmakers was not
lack of time, but predictability of answers.

Let me state the obvious: independent watchmakers are true asset to any
society. They possess skills acquired over many decades of complex
restorations and repairs. They work on high-grade watches, both new (if they can get spare parts!)
and vintage. They also restore and repair fine and unusual timepieces
like vintage pocket watches, music boxes, complex clock mechanisms, barometers.

They are shy tigers.

Brand name watchmakers who specialize in single brand and single caliber watches,
who were trained 'in house', are far less versatile and offer a more limited service.
They have no contact with the general public. They are not
trained to teach other watchmakers and pass their knowledge onto the next generation.

There are many millions of lesser known brand watches out there -awaiting restoration-
that are absolutely of no interest to 'authorized brand name' service centers.
Actually, as some of you know, often, even brand name watches are rendered
beyond repair after certain age.
What you may regard as a priceless family heirloom, a brand name Swiss repair centre
may regard as worthless junk.

Once the last ‘tiger’ is captured and starved to death,
watch collectors and the general public will notice the difference.
By then it will be too late.

I have not the slightest doubt that one day science will advance
so far that the Tasmanian tiger will be 'recreated' from a remnant of DNA.

Unfortunately, even then, recreating a master watchmaker from DNA would be still impossible!

 

Don't wait untill it's too late - do the right thing: 

Save the time. Download the petition now ( .doc / .pdf )

 

So How Was Your Day?

Newsletter archive | 2nd April 2012

He runs a small watch repair shop located inside the smallest mall of the smallest country town, north of Bundaberg. He gets home late because that chiming clock is still missing its last quarter chime and he’s just too tired to watch the footy.

"How was your day?" she asks.

"It was good. Eight Seiko and Casio batteries, three watchbands, and Mrs. Smith collected that pocket watch I finished in October. She was too busy to collect it earlier, but it's all good.
It was a good day of trading."

But he knew perfectly well that the trade was not even close to 'good'. With $217 dollars in the cash register he could barely afford to pay their bills and the rent. The only reason why it was good was because most of the other business were doing far worse after yet another flood, or was it a drought?

The business had not been good for years, actually since the cheap battery operated watches replaced mechanical timepieces. The change of technology meant that his skills were no longer required; cheap battery operated watches were too cheap to service and even cheaper to replace. He tried to 'diversify' into the clock trade, apparently everyone else was doing well in clocks. He invested in a bushing tool, main spring winder and even a second-hand Myford lathe which cost a fortune.
Yet deep down in his heart he knew that fixing clocks was not really what he was trained to do, what he wanted to do.

When clock collecting collapsed in early 1990’s (by then he had repaired all 17 clocks in 75 km radius, including that Church clock which went silent after the War, free of charge of course), he was told that "money is in vintage watches". Apparently everyone was trading on eBay.
But he was not a trader. He did not have the money to invest in stock, was not sure how that eBay thing really worked, and was too honest to sell a broken watch to someone half way around the globe.

"It was a good day" he kept telling her every night.

Of course, some of his friends were doing OK in the watch business. Every now and then one of them would stop by that small shop to show him one of their latest acquisitions: a vintage Rolex, a nice Longines, and then there was that fancy 1980s two-tone Cartier.

"Is it genuine?" The visitor would ask.
"Yes, it is."
"So if I need a battery replacement, can I bring it to you?"
"No, I’m sorry, I can’t replace the battery in a Cartier because I don't have a case seal for it".

But he would love to do be able to do so. A battery replacement for that fancy Swiss watch is something he could easily charge $35 dollars for. A couple of those per week would mean an extra $280 per month, or exactly $3,640 per year  - enough to buy a "new" Ute.

That was all he needed to make a breakthrough - two fancy Swiss watch batteries per week.
And if he could perhaps get a new winding crown or a plexiglass for that vintage Rolex, he could make a small fortune; that would be an easy $450 repair too!

Unfortunately he knew all too well that he would never get access to Swiss spare parts.
He knew the phone call to Richemont will be answered with "Sorry no parts.
We don't sell to independent watchmakers. Actually we don't supply parts to anyone anymore, we do all of our repairs in-house. And please, stop calling us."

No parts. All he needed is a $2 rubber seal so he could seal the case after the battery replacement.
No parts. Not a screw. Not a seal.
No parts.

For some time he kept dreaming; a $2 dollar rubber seal from Cartier could make all the difference for his small business.
A $25 steel crown for that vintage Rolex would mean he could earn a small fortune. With access to Swiss parts he could even take in an apprentice! Maybe he could expand, advertise online?

He was not interested in competing with the Swiss monopolist. All he wanted to do is what he was trained to - make an honest living repairing watches that Rolex had already rendered as "too old to be repaired".
That really would be a good day!

Unfortunately, his services were no longer needed. No parts meant a slow and steady decline for both his business and his pride.
The closure of the last small watch repair shop located inside the smallest mall of the smallest country town, north of Bundaberg, was not even news for the smallest local papers.

So how was your day, Rolex? And how was yours, Richemont? Have you had a good one?

----------------------------------------------------
*** FACT:

A watch battery replacement is a simple job, yet even the most experienced Australian watchmakers and jewellers are unable to perform it due to the restricted supply of spare parts from Swiss watch brands to independent repairers.


Many thousands of high-grade Swiss watches owned by Australian people are no longer repaired in Australia, by Australian tradesman. Instead, those repair jobs are 'outsourced' to Switzerland.

Ironically, while many IT and financial sector jobs are being outsourced to developing countries, resulting in lower service costs for the consumer, exactly the opposite is happening with the outsourcing of Swiss brand watch repairs to Switzerland.

Outsourcing equates to higher repair costs for the Australian consumer, with no return on capital back into Australia.


----------------------------------------------------

The monopoly on the supply of spare parts for brand-name Swiss watches will mean the death of Australian independent watchmakers.

Mail bag - Re: Diver's COMEX

Your input, as always, is priceless. I just wish I could publish all your comments but hey - something has to be left for memoirs :-)

The first one is from a concerned lawyer, second comes from the desk of a disappointed husband and the third from lady who believes that I would publish anything - even off topic copy-and-paste tweets. And she was not wrong...

---

Hi Nick,

I know this is highly unusual, however, I thought I might ask whether this gentlemen has put in a claim with a lawyer for his accident. If it is not too much trouble, would you be able to ask him directly? I am concerned that, as a result of his injury, he may not have canvassed this issue, to his detriment.

If you are uncomfortable in contacting him, I understand, but would ask that you do let me know in either event.

Kind regards,

K.L.
Senior Lawyer
........... Victoria

---

Dear Nick,

Further to your featured bad luck Rolex story, I have one too. Many years ago my wife was a flight attendant for Qantas. She was doing a trip from Dubai to London. At the end of the journey all the staff who worked in first class were given a gold Rolex by one of the passengers - an Arab sheik. Apparently this was not an unusual practice in the seventies. I guess that nowadays the super rich would have their own private jets. Sadly my beloved was only working in business class and missed out on the gold Rolex.

I.I.

---

Dear Nick

My husband sent me this from the online 'Economist'. It is not about your favourite subject of watches but the buying and selling of an heirloom gold chain that involved valuations from Sotheby's and Christies and the consequences of going to Court. No doubt the ruling could also apply to a very special watch.

Please keep sending out your emails as I enjoy reading your comments.

Kind regards, C.J.

The art of auction valuation
Matters of opinion

March 2nd 2012, 23:29 by P.W. | LONDON

CAVEAT vendor. Art is not science, so it quite literally pays for sellers and buyers to understand the rules of what can be a very costly game. For many people this will be the most salient message of the High Court verdict handed down last night by Judge Mark Pelling QC, following the week-long trial of a suit brought by the Lord Coleridge against Sotheby's, an auction house.

Lord Coleridge claimed that the auction-house expert, Elizabeth Mitchell, was negligent when she gave an auction valuation of a treasured family heirloom. The historic gold chain of office had been in his family for generations, and the Coleridges (distant relatives of the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge) believed it dated from the mid-16th century. Lord Coleridge had expected that the estimate for his rare Tudor jewel would be £500,000 or more. Ms Mitchell, however, proposed that it was from the late 17th century, and gave it an estimate of £25,000 to £35,000. This, Lord Coleridge claimed, had cost him a good deal of money. He sued for £415,000.

The case is fascinating but complicated. Lord Coleridge owned an almost six-foot long gold chain of office—the kind worn on grand occasions by the Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, a court that was dissolved in the late 19th century. John Duke Coleridge was the last person to serve, and the gold chain was his. According to family tradition it might even have been the gift of Henry VIII.

Lord Coleridge did not want to sell this emblem of a distinguished ancestor; a jewel that connected his family to a formidable king. But, as he told this writer, he always saw it as a lifeboat, too. If ever times got really bad, its sale would save the family. Such circumstances came to be in 2006, when his daughter could not afford to maintain the house that had been in their family since 1796. The house and its contents were put on the market. Lord Coleridge launched his golden lifeboat, expecting that its sale would allow them to keep the house. But Sotheby's disappointing valuation of his chain seemed to rule this out. Instead, they sold the family home, and its buyer, Max Norris, wanted the chain with it. He offered Sotheby's high auction estimate of £35,000 and Lord Coleridge accepted.

In 2008 Mr Norris chose to auction off the chain at Christie's. There it was catalogued as Tudor and sold for a hammer price of £260,000.

Either Sotheby's had it right or Christie's did. The chain was either Tudor or it was not. Lord Coleridge sided with Christie's valuation and sued. He claimed that if Elizabeth Mitchell (now retired) had spent more time studying his chain, it would have earned a much higher estimate.

The gripping trial was part family drama, part exposition of goldsmiths' techniques and a crash course in English legal history. The cross-examinations were lively; the hectoring tone of the claimant's barrister was occasionally undercut by the comic failure of his wig to stay on his head. At the core of the case was the search for documentary evidence that would prove the chain was Tudor. None emerged. As a result, the case had to rely on expert testimony.

High-calibre art experts have long experience, deep knowledge and a good eye. In this area, Sotheby's was more fortunate (or canny) in its choices than was Christie's. Charles Truman, an ex-director of Christies and an authority on antique gold objects and jewels, was Sotheby's expert witness. Marian Campbell and Philippa Glanville, widely respected authorities on early metal work (and both ex-Victoria & Albert curators), shared his view that the chain is not Tudor.

Lord Coleridge lost his case. The judge did rule, however, that Sotheby's should have told him that in a private sale it is usual to double the lower auction estimate; he ought to have asked Mr Norris to pay £50,000 rather than £35,000. He was therefore awarded compensation of about £20,000. But because he lost the case, Lord Coleridge has to pay 90% of most of its costs, estimated at £1m. Hearing the verdict was like listening to a morality tale. There was much to learn from it.

Essentially, if a work of art or an antique is of personal or financial importance, it pays to get a second opinion if you don't much care for the first one. The job of an expert is to use acquired skills and natural gifts to narrow the gap between opinion and fact. The better the expert, the more narrow the gap—but it never disappears
entirely. Experience teaches collectors, dealers and art historians that mistakes are unavoidable. Learning from them is often more beneficial and less expensive than going to court.

As it happens, the chain was bought at Christie's in 2008 by Christopher Moran, who has built on enormous Tudor-style house alongside the Thames. Perhaps he will not mind having a collar that now is widely considered to be Tudor style, rather than the real thing.

Silver pocket watch

Hi Nick

You distribute some very interesting emails, thanks. I bought the Lanco watch you advertised in December and am looking forward to restoring it after I finish the Seiko. I also recently inherited a pocket watch which has been in the family for some years. I wound it up and it went, so then I opened it up to inspect the mechanism. However the mechanism is enclosed in an inner case which I have not attempted to open. I am enclosing a photo. Can you give me any information on the type of mechanism please.

Cheers
Paul L.

Hi Paul -

Good to hear from you. Hope you are having fun with that Seiko :-)

Congratulations on a pocket watch! What a lovely piece. It looks like a typical 1880s English silver cased hunter with straight lever escapement. Key wound and key set.

While the mechanism is 'machine made', the individual parts are hand finished, hand engraved and decorated. In most cases, the exposed balance wheel cock is just a teaser so please do go ahead and remove that cover to see what's hiding under.


To remove the cover, slide the 'half moon' shaped latch in the direction as shown on the picture. Note how the latch is slotted into two protruding steel pins. Once 'unslotted' the cover can be lifted up. Easy! Be careful of course not to touch any components, especially not the balance wheel. Repairs on this type of movement are now expensive - most watchmakers who used to repair pocket watches are now retired or rest in well deserved peace.

While most pocket watches from that era no longer keep time (you are lucky that your piece still ticks!) they are great projects for historical horological research.

Thanks to typical British pedancity and a bunch of hallmarks stamped inside the case back, we can find out a fair bit about the origin of the watch case - date of manufacture, where it was produced and in most cases who was the maker.

Look for symbols similar to ones listed here:


In the above example, this set of marks tells us that this piece was made of Sterling, in the city of London, in the year 1789 during the reign of King George III by silversmith Thomas Wallis.

This is a typical set of antique British silver marks showing (1) Standard mark, (2) City mark, (3) Date letter, (4) Duty mark and (5) Maker's mark.

The most important letter is city mark. The reason is simple: each city had it's own date code table so for example for the year 1880 assigned date letter is 'E' for London made cases. Or if the case was produced in Exeter, it would be hallmarked with "D".


I am not going to spoil your enjoyment by revealing any more details. There are number of good websites which will help you identify the British silver hallmarks. Or if you prefer paper, look for booklet titled English Silver Hallmarks by Judith Banister ($5).

Just keep in mind that you must start by correctly identifying the CITY mark and the rest should fall in place.

After you remove the movement cover, look for the watchmaker's signature. Unfortunately this is where your online research may hit a dead end - so you may need to consult reference books like Watchmakers and Clockmakers of the World (Vol I and II) by G. H. Baillie. This authoritative book is a priceless aid for any serious student of horology.

Let us know how you go! Good luck and have fun.

PAM 217 Marina Militare Destro: Heidi's choice?

For many, the 217 is the Holy Grail of Panerai watches. Yes, it is an uber-cool, rare, stunning head turner.

A piece designed for a real man. I am talking here about you or Matt Damon. Oh yes, in that order.

I can't think of any other Panerai out there that would give you so much 'exposure'. Quite frankly it is difficult to describe 217 as anything but the ultimate attention seeker.

Now, make no mistake: I am *not* crazy about Panerai watches in general. I find them too precious to be worn, not water proof enough for what you would expect from a 'military' grade watch. For someone who still prefers inner beauty than external appearance, ETA movements leaves very little room for excitement. After all, I started my apprenticeship on this very same calibre - except it was called the Unitas pocket watch back then. Yeah, kind of like expecting Mat Moran to get excited about the new McChicken Burger.

And for all the above reasons (and a few more) I just could not put this watch for sale before giving it a test ride.

To accommodate my butcher's size wrist, the 217 was fitted with a custom made military style strap (comfortable 22cm!) and I've promised myself to give it a "fair go".


Then I took it "for a walk".

My first point of stop was a local news agent. Then a couple of food vendors at the local food court. While I was not trying to hide it, neither was I pushing it in people's faces. Yet the effect was very much the same: a curious, puzzled look of disbelief.

A fellow passenger on the bus home could not resist to comment. "Nice watch!" he said. Getting a compliment from a busy Sydneysider on a Friday afternoon bus is as cool and as difficult as getting an autographed picture from Heidi Klum. In the year 2012 people just don't care. And even when they do, they mind their own business. Or talk on their mobile phone, or whatever.

Trying to impress my only friend with the PAM217 was more challenging than I thought. Yet even he - a guy totally not into watches - could not help himself but to notice my large Militare.

"What do you think it's worth?" I asked.
"Five thousand? Maybe six?" he said.
"OK, guess again - and here is your 'call a friend' tip: less than twenty".
"Are you kidding me - he said - take it off, let me have a closer look."

So I did. After an agonizing 30 seconds of inspection, he said: "I really hate you. But even I can see why this Pammmeriii is worth $20K."

And that is exactly what is so special with the 217: anyone, including my best friend
who is totally NOT into watches can appreciate all the reasons why the Militare Destro is such a great piece.

Yes, some watchmakers are completely blind for external beauty, me included.

In one word: elitist, exclusive, rare and snobbish. But not over the top, not vulgar and never inappropriate.

In case you are still unsure about it, ask yourself this question: if you were invited to dinner with Heidi, which one would you wear?

Exactly!

PS: Now here is the most extraordinary fact about the 217 - despite the large size of 47mm, it is probably one of the most comfortable Panerai watches! Thanks to the destro" design (designed for people who wear watches on their right hand) and thick saddle leather strap, the watch sits very comfortably on the wrist. I am wearing it now, as I type, and I've been wearing it all day today without the slightest discomfort. Priceless feeling! I just wish they made it in 49mm.

Housekeeping

The secret to any successful retail business is in its ability to provide quality goods at the right price with the best possible customer service. Nothing new there.

The pre-owned watch retail business is essentially like any other retail business -
except for few unique details which are dictated by the very nature of the goods: we are dealing in precision instruments of high value which are in limited supply.

In order to serve you better, there are a few 'guidelines' which we've adopted over the years. While most of our customers and newsletter subscribers are familiar with the way we do business, it is always a good idea to highlight some of those 'rules' from time to time.

1. Viewing by appointment only

There are two main reasons why we operate 'by appointment only'. The first one is for security reasons: we don't keep our stock on premise! Also, we understand that making a decision to buy a right watch may take more than just a few minutes and in order to make you comfortable we need to allocate time for YOU. Please call or email for an appointment; 24 hours is usually enough time to have your selected watches ready for inspection.

2. Have realistic expectations

Australian pre-owned watch market is extremely small. There are just a handful of dealers and none of them carry large quantities of watches in stock. While we do our best to source as many popular brands and styles and to provide online information on current stock, chances of finding that rare or unusual watch in particular size with the dial of your preference is realistically very low. Before making an appointment, please take your time to browse our website. If you don't see what you like, send us an email. We may have a similar model in stock or we could source it for you. But be prepared to be flexible with your selection. And most importantly: stay on the mailing list because we do get new stock every day! Of course, if we DO have what you like then don't wait: call us ASAP to make an appointment.

3. Payment

Our preferred method of payment for all interstate customers is direct deposit / transfer to our bank account. For 'over the counter' sales we prefer cash or EFTPOS. Please note: you may have a daily limit on your EFTPOS transaction. Please call your bank ahead to have sufficient funds available to complete the transaction. Credit cards: for the amounts under $3,000 we also accept VISA and MasterCard with 1.8% surcharge. For larger amounts combination of cash/card/EFTPOS is also possible.

We don't accept Amex, PayPal, personal or bank cheques or any credit cards over the phone, regardless of amount. Our stock is limited and popular and for that reason we cannot hold, accept deposits to secure, do partial payments or lay-bys.

4. Discounts

We've been in the watch business for many years - actually for generations! We have sold many thousands of watches to many thousands of happy customers from across the road to watch aficionados in the most remote places on the planet. And yes, as watchmakers by trade, we do know our watches inside out. We work hard to ensure that our price is right because we don't list high and sell low. We don't play games with you or 'hide' GST. We don't sell a watch for $4,000 and then list the same watch on the website as "sold for $3,000". Unlike every other dealer in Australia, we don't do consignments because consignment means no responsibility to neither seller nor buyer and inflated price. Our motto is "Uncompromised integrity. Workmanship. No discount" and we are so serious about those 3 fundamental business principles that we've made them public to everyone who visit our shop. So please don't ask for discount because we do not discount neither our integrity, quality of our stock or price.

5. Selling a watch

Yes, quality stock is always wanted! We are looking for watches in mint and unworn condition (any brand - from TAG to Patek!) and fine pre-loved high grade stock. Vintage, unique and unusual pieces are also welcome, including pocket watches and fine carriage clocks.

If you have a single watch to sell or a large collection or looking to downsize, give us a call. We offer confidential transaction and quick settlement.

Unfortunately we cannot make you an offer over the phone or via email - you need to bring your watch to our shop for a quick inspection.

6. "How do I know that your watches are not fake?"

While five 'rules' are quite sufficient to provide basic guidelines in dealing with us, I could not resist to include one more. For some strange reason, many of our first time buyers just have to ask the above question. Which is fine. We understand that some of you have been "burned" before and you want to make sure that watch you buy form us is genuine, unaltered piece.

However - if our website, reputation, physical premises, customer feedback, your common sense and even the very watch you are holding in your hand is not sufficient to convince you that we ONLY deal in 100 % genuine watches, then please understand that there is really nothing else I can offer you to convince you even further.

Let me try it one more time: we have NEVER sold a fake, non genuine watch. Not because such practice is criminal offense under Australian law, but because we are so passionate about REAL watches that we *hate* scammers, fakers, fake watches and con artists. We have spent (and continue to do so) great amount of effort to educate our buyers, web site visitors and email subscribers by providing buying tips - so it would really make absolutely no sense if we would sell fake watches.

If you still have to as, then PLEASE ask it once only and I would once again answer your question with "No, we don't sell fake watches, we sell real watches only". And this is where we draw the line: ask it twice (or more!) and we would have to ask you to leave our premises and never to return.

After all, life is short and we would rather spend out time with customers who appreciate our service. Wouldn't you do the same?

One of the 30

IWC model reference 5004-23 is one of the rarest in the Big Pilot's range. The entire production run of this impressive 18K yellow gold-cased watch is a mere 30 pieces in total! The back case does not even mention the exact production number - each and every 5004-23 is simply signed "One of the 30".

It's nickname is 'Buenos Aires" - it was manufactured for and sold exclusively through the Simonetta Orsini watch boutique in Buenos Aires. The name of the city of Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, means "Good Airs" or "Fair Winds" in Spanish which is a really clever way to introduce this unique timepiece to watch aficionados worldwide.


While the Big Pilot's is truly a unique watch in the entire IWC range, the 30 piece run is exclusively something only a handful of Swiss watch makers can afford
to their most valuable customers. And IWC did exactly that with the 5004-23.

Finding one in the world watch market is not a small task. It could take months or even years to hunt one down. So when a client walked in our humble shop the other day
with a large white box, I could not even have dreamed of seeing a Buenos Aires "in person". Yet there it was - a complete set, down to the bar code sticker. Worn a couple of times only, ready to be passed on to its next guardian.

So what is it worth, you may ask?

Taking in account the original RRP of USD$ 30,000 (which was close to AUD$ 38,000 with the 2009 exchange rate), rarity and uniqueness and overall condition, our asking price of AUD$ 23,635 + GST (AUD$ 25,999) is really a bargain.

For more images and full description go to http://www.clockmaker.com.au/w/k2798

Viewing by appointment only.

Fair winds, Captain sir! Buen Viaje!




THANK YOU!

Yes, a big 'thank you so much' to all members and list subscribers who kindly submitted offers this week on a small but exciting selection of 9 watches.

The response to our "make us an offer" deal was way beyond our expectation. We have received a total of 395 bids submitted by fax, in writing. On Thursday, our fax was probably the most dialed number in Sydney - it was ringing off the hook and unfortunately many of you who waited to submit your offers after lunch time couldn't get through.

The result page received over 1,500 hits in less than 24 hours. The most popular watch was Rolex Submariner which received 91 offers and went for $4,005. (The second offer was $4,002 - just $3 lower :-)

My favorite Roamer Sting Ray went for a bargain price of just $958 but I had to accept the market's sentiments - with 23 offers this is good indication where the vintage market stands at the moment.

Many have asked: when is the next one? No firm date yet, but yes, we'll do it again!
Stay tuned and watch this space!

Once again, we are humbled with the amount of trust that you have shown us by providing your personal details. Please rest assured that no personal data will be stored or shared - we have no need to keep your details on file because you are already our subscriber!

Yes, we've learned a few tricks in the process and I am sure that the 'next one' is going to be even more fun.

Watch talk: Collecting Vintage Omega Sportswatches: May 3, 2012

Once again, I have asked Jon Wallis (Author of the Desk Divers and Plo Prof websites, and well known for his Omega PloProf book, amongst other things) to join us one evening and run a presentation about collecting Omega Sportswatches from the '70s.

You may remember that we have done a couple of similar presentations before and they always had a good buzz as Jon is a really good presenter and a collector who's not only knowledgeable, but also really loves these watches. To give you guys the best chance of gathering as much information as possible we hope this time to also have a strong 'show and tell' element to the evening. So bring along your sportswatches along with your wish-list, and we can pick Jon's brain as well as hear his useful collecting hints and tips along the way.

As before, this will be an evening session in our Sydney city office and will start at 5:30 on Thursday May 3rd and run for approximately 3 hours. There will be nibbles and drinks provided, but space is limited so you really must book. Sorry, but you cannot just turn up on the night as we only have a small venue. Tickets at $40 per person. If you reserve a place then please do turn up. Sorry I had to mention that but if you have a space booked that means it is reserved for you and someone else is missing out. If you have to cancel, please do so as early as possible.

Some of the things Jon has promised that he will talk about: "Want to know more about the vast range of Omega sports watches from the 1970s? Need to know your Flightmaster from your Speedmaster, and your Constellation from your DeVille? Want to know which are the most accurate and which are the rarest of the range? Want to get to know some quartz watches that actually are collectable? And of course, we hope to have some Omegas to look at, touch and also talk about, plus answer your questions on the night!"

We all are aware that we haven't had much of a summer this year, but as we head into Autumn we should all have something to look forward to, and so lets plan the evening to be held on Thursday May 3rd. (Let your other half and the kids go shopping in the CDB while you chat about watches! :) )

On time, yet still too late

Barry Trengove went from London to New York to be an art director

for I. Miller, the classy American shoe company in the 1960's.

He arrived on Friday and went to the office.

The company was moving over the weekend and he wanted to check on where to report on Monday.

Passing down the corridor, he noticed that the walls were hung with

the original shoe illustrations done by Andy Warhol for advertising

campaigns in the 1950s. The movers were shifting out furniture

and had begun to stack the pictures in a corner.

Finding the foreman, Barry inquired what was happening to them.

"They will be thrown away tomorrow", he said.

"Um", said Barry, "I quite like them".

"Well," said the foreman, "come in the morning at nine,

five bucks and they're all yours."

Barry didn't sleep all night.

He was back there bang on nine.

"Sorry," said the foreman, "the rubbish was collected earlier than expected."

[The art of looking sideways: Warhol's Shoes]

Solid end link, no pin holes, gold strip

We often receive emails about Rolex Submariner pin holes, gold strip and end links. In general those terms refer to bracelet and case properties. Photos below are self-explanatory. Important note: the purpose of this article is not to provide definite cut-off production dates, but rather to point out differences between similar models.

According to Rolex's practice, changes to case and bracelet were introduced gradually over the years. For example, the non-date Submariner 14060 was manufactured with pin-holes and an older style bracelet up until 2008. On the other hand, the Seadweller 16660 was fitted with a solid end link bracelet in the early 1980s! The 16613 gold and steel was the only clean-cut issue: the new bracelet was introduced in 2000 and the no pin holes case in late 2003/ early 2004.

Good old times :-)

Sharing private photos with strangers is probably not a good idea, but hey - some of you have been receiving my newsletters for over 10 years so technically speaking, you no longer fit in that "strangers" category.

The guy on the right is my father. Photo was taken in 1961 when he was watchmaker at his brother's workshop. His older brother Mihailo completed his 'mastership' just before the WW2 and after the war he set up his own business. For many years, the town of 50,000 people was blessed (or cursed?) with not less than 7 watch repair establishments! Talk about competition..!


And here is a photo taken during a trip to Austria in 1967. I guess standing behind the sun dial ("sun clock") was such a natural thing for a watchmaker. (I am the fatso on the right) People often ask: how did you get into the watch business? Well it's simple - I had no choice...


My father just turned 71 and his brother (I call him grandpa) is in his 90s. Both still fiddle with clocks and watches, and for over 60 years, family business is still at the same address!

On time yet still too late / Is Paypal protecting the seller or the buyer?

On time yet still too late

Barry Trengove went from London to New York to be an art director for I. Miller, the classy American shoe company in the 1960's. He arrived on Friday and went to the office.
The company was moving over the weekend and he wanted to check on where to report on Monday.

Passing down the corridor, he noticed that the walls were hung with the original shoe illustrations done by Andy Warhol for advertising campaigns in the 1950s. The movers were shifting out furniture and had begun to stack the pictures in a corner. Finding the foreman, Barry inquired what was happening to them

"They will be thrown away tomorrow", he said.
"Um", said Barry, "I quite like them".
"Well," said the foreman, "come in the morning at nine, five bucks and they're all yours."

Barry didn't sleep all night. He was back there bang on nine. "Sorry," said the foreman, "the rubbish was collected earlier than expected."

[The art of looking sideways: Warhol's Shoes]

---

Is Paypal protecting the buyer or the seller?

This is a tricky question. In my opinion - and in the opinion of a number of sellers burned recently - the answer is: neither!

Let me just share with you a true event: a local (Sydney) seller has listed his Rolex on eBay. The watch was sold to another local - a buyer who was happy to pay with Paypal.

The money was transferred to the seller, and as a precaution, he immediately withdrew the money from his Paypal account to his personal bank account.

Shortly after, the buyer contacted the seller asking if it would be possible to collect the watch to save on shipping. The seller was happy to oblige - after all, the buyer was doing him a favor. Personal delivery would ensure that the buyer has received the
watch, the transaction would be settled, and the seller could not be liable or open
to eventual Paypal investigation due to non-delivery or loss in transit.
So our seller agreed to hand the watch over in person.

Again, as a smart seller, at the delivery, he took the buyer's details: copy of the driver's license, phone number - he even took the photo of the buyer himself -and his car! Done deal!

By the time he arrived home, there was an email from Paypal: the transaction has been reversed - and Paypal took the money back from his personal account (as they are allowed to do according to Paypal agreement). Reason: fraudulent transaction! The "buyer" paid for the watch with a credit card which belongs to the victim of an online fraud - and once the victim realised what happen, his bank contacted Paypal.

So our seller lost his Rolex to a local scammer.

Being scammed online is painful, but being scammed IN PERSON is even more so. If you think that Paypal is there to protect you, then think twice. (In defense, Paypal said that seller would have been protected if the watch was shipped, but not when personally delivered!).

Unscrupulous people are out there to outsmart you, me, innocent victims, the banks and Paypal.

Be careful who you are dealing with - both face to face and online, 'Having the Paypal money in your bank account' is no longer safe. The Paypal money is NOT real money! It is a mere agreement between Paypal and your bank, and in case of fraud, it could take months to determine who is the victim and who is the scammer.

Beware!

Happy collecting,

Nick Hacko

'Mystery' Rolex Table Clock

Hello Nick
could you tell me please more about this Rolex table clock:
a value, how old it is and if there were many made?

C.K.

Unfortunately, Rolex never made a table clock of the above design. The clock on the picture is a recent Indian or Chinese fake, it has no monetary or collector's value other than 'novelty' value ($5-10).

However the glass ball design is not a a novelty in itself; during the mid to late 1800s a number of French and British makers have produced similar pieces. Some of them were true works of art and highly collectable, but none of them were in the skeleton style or had a signed dial. In the tradition of clockmaking in that era, the maker's name was engraved on the movement.

Original French ball clocks are very collectable and desirable. Such demand created a market for fakes. The most popular variety is the signed "Omega" but other watch brands - like the above Rolex- are not uncommon. What they do have in common is the appearance: "aged" brass patinated frame, modified wrist or pocket watch movement of later production and dubious "mysterious" provenance; the package is designed to fool novice watch enthusiasts!

Triptych

O N E

Among Chuan-tzu's many skills, he was an expert draftsman. The king asked him to draw a crab. Chuang-tzu replied that he needed five years, a country house, and twelve servants. Five years later the drawing was still not begun. "I need another five years," said Chuang-tzu. The king granted them. At the end of these ten years, Chuang-tzu took up his brush and, in an instant, with a single stroke, he drew a crab, the most perfect crab ever seen.

T W O

"I dropped my vintage Rolex. Something is rattling inside and it no longer works. Could it be serious?"
"Yes. Sounds like a broken rotor, jewel or maybe both. Plus a general overhaul."
"How quickly can you fix it? I am in a hurry!"
"My standard turn-around time is 4-6 weeks. With bit of luck, three."
"That long?? It's only a bloody watch! Why would it take you so long to fix it?"
"What would you consider a reasonable turnaround time?"
"I was hoping you can do it while I wait."

T H R E E

I've found a link between apes and civilized men: it's us!



[1] Italo Calvino
[2] watchmaker
[3] Konrad Lorenz

PAM 1938: Media-magnet

Fine watches are magnet for media.

When things are slow and there is nothing to report or speculate about, you can bet your last dollar that tomorrow's top news is going to be "A Kitten Saved by Hero Fireman" or "Grandpa's junk watch sold for $100,000 on eBay".

In that order.

And yes, we get our share of calls from young (and seasoned) journalists wanting to "feature" our watches. Our usual reply is "Sorry, we are not interested, thanks for calling." In all fairness, would you hand over your finest piece to a total stranger
just because he claims to work for Channel 9 or In Style magazine? Yeah, sure.

This week was not out of the ordinary. I can't remember who he said he wrote for - BRW, Piping Australia, Melbourne Living or Dumbo Feather. ("Behind extraordinary ideas there are extraordinary people. Dumbo Feather is a magazine about these people.") It would not matter anyway - the guy on the phone was as enthusiastic as they get.

What did set him apart, however, was his boldness.

After the 5 minute breathless monologue he finally got to the point:

"We are working on a special issue dedicated to fine watches and we would like to offer you a chance to supply a watch for a photo shoot. I can send my assistant straight away to collect it."

"Yeah, sure. Which one would be suitable" - I asked.

"I am very particular with this project and there is only one watch on your website that
would suit my requirements. Panerai Radiomir 1938."

"Good pick mate- you really got me excited now! There is only one small problem: the watch comes with a very peculiar price tag: it's called 'price available upon request'.
Which means it is worth a few dollars."

"Oh, we are not buying it, so for us, the price is irrelevant"

"Cool. But with all due respect, the price is very relevant to me because this beauty
owes me big bucks. It is what we call a liability. I mean, if it goes missing, the loss is mine, isn't it?"

"Yes, but I'll take special care and I'll wear it personally until it's returned to you".

"Now that you mentioned it, the watch is UNWORN, still in full plastic wrap so I guess this could be a problem when taking photos?"

"We will unwrap it. No problem."

"Sounds like you've got it all covered and planned. And am I going to be mentioned as
a watch supplier to the photo shoot?"

"Well this is not really a common practice, but if you insist, we can do that as well.
Mind you, we are not in the business of promoting other businesses; we are primarily interested in artistic / design side of the watch."

At that point I realized we went too far. He has obviously mistaken my cynicism for naivety so I had no choice but to break his heart.

"Sorry mate, I think I'll pass on your offer. I was just pulling your leg a bit; we are nothing but ordinary second hand dealers and you would be better off if you call an Authorized Panerai dealer to arrange for a similar watch."

"Thanks for wasting my time" he said. "You should have told me so straight away".

And he was right. I should have told him so - if he would only care to listen.

Yet another fake Italian Omega

A few months ago, I told you a story about fake Omega watches produced in Italy during the early 1970s. ( Link )

Well here is another one: this baby came in on Monday for a valuation. It came from the same part of the world, except this one was just a nasty, plain rip-off; probably the worst example I've ever seen.



While it looked fairly 'convincing' from a distance, the case back revealed the true origin: Il Ponte Rosso Special :-)

Base metal case back was enthusiastically stamped "18K gold", as well as the bracelet clasp.




Obviously this one was produced to fool only a drunken sailor at 4am.

So what puzzles me is this: why did they bother then to etch the movement with a fake Omega symbol? Like the sailor is going to ask "can I see the movement please?"
Yeah, sure.



Anyway, I've told the owner that the watch is not only a fake, but a bad one which is only good for educational purposes. He said: "You can have it then". To keep my promise, I'm sharing the photos with you.

Q&A

Hello Mr Hacko

I have been a subscriber to your mailing list for a little while now and am looking to make a purchase in the near future (just waiting for a good first buy into the market watch comes along, Tag Aquaracer or less expensive Omega etc) Which brings me to my question.

There is always alot of talk amongst people regarding watches that there are certain types of people who just seem to "break" or cant wear watches as they "just seem to somehow" stop, drop time, come apart etc when they are wearing them. This is usually explained as a high magnetic/electro-magnetic current in the persons body.

So my question is Q. Is there any credence to this claim that there are these seemingly mystical watch breaking people who appear to be channeling Magneto from the Xmen and breaking/stopping watches with their own bio-rythmic magnetism. Or as I seem to be one of these people who does have watches stop on him alot (and im not currently in my understanding Magneto from the Xmen) simply having this happen because I have not really
ever spent more than $150 or so on a watch?

This question is currently quite pertinent as I am looking to make a purchase (as I have mentioned earlier) quite soon and if there is any credence to the claim of magnetism or human bio-electrics interfering with watches to the point of them coming apart or stopping etc and I happen to be a person with whom this phenomenon occurs, then purchasing a watch no matter what the cost would be a rather pointless exercise.

As I do love watches and would like to start collecting (with a Tag or Omega etc and then progress to the likes of Patek Phillipe, Ulysse Nardin and Cartier etc any help you can give me shedding light on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Regards T.K.


Dear TK,

I was only 7 years old when I first learned about "magnetic people".

My father was always very skeptical to any claims of bio-magnetic nature, and his usual comment to customers was: "Take good care of your watch and you'll be fine". But to me, those people looked genuinely convinced that they do possess something which prevents them from wearing a watch. After all, why would anyone make such a ridiculous claim?

The other reason I was more 'open minded' than the rest of my watchmaking family is because of a guy by the name Biba The Current.

When I was a kid, Biba was a regular guest on every scientific show on TV. He would plug one finger into a power point and fry an egg. Or boil coffee — holding the mug with his bare hands! Sparks flying everywhere, smoke, excited crowd, doctors and scientists shaking heads in disbelief — that was a show not to be missed!

After receiving your email I actually went to look for Biba — just to make sure he was still alive and kicking. And guess what: according to his Facebook website, he is! The fact that he's only got three friends (Erich Von Daniken, Uri Geller and Shane Warne) is proof that big minds and extraordinarily people always stick together.

Forty years later, I am as clueless to offer any explanation or opinion on the matter, but as you see, I now take things even more seriously.

So this morning on the bus to work, I came up with a simple test which can prove (or disprove) human magnetic properties.

The test is 100% definite and 100% safe. I have actually tested today myself, my assistant Margarett and 4 random customers.

Place 3 paper clips on the top of your wrist, on the area marked with a circle.

Now, rotate your wrist 180 degrees.

If the paper clips fall off your wrist, then you have no magnetic energy. You are not only safe, but ready to invest in fine watches!

However if the clips remain stuck to your wrist, then we can still do business, but you should call the "60 minutes" first and setup a Facebook account. Then call me, and we'll start with Pateks, not TAG.

Yours truly,
N.