$800 for a battery replacement? You must be joking!

Yesterday we got a call from a customer inquiring if we can do a battery replacement and water pressure test in a mid-range Swiss brand watch. Of course we can. How much? Depends, could be $50 or perhaps bit more. How much more? Hard to tell, depends on case construction and time required to complete the job. What would be the worst case scenario? $75. How long? Overnight, we are bit busy. He was in a state of shock: the brand service quoted $800 and 21 weeks turnaround time. Obviously, the brand service was trying to sneak in 'a complete overhaul' which was not what the customer wanted or needed, but even a complete overhaul on a basic quartz movement should cost $300 at the most. The annoying bit is that we get calls like this every day. Yesterday, we replaced a battery in a Breitling for $75 and we charged $45 for Omega Constellation. The other day, we replaced two batteries free of charge while he was buying a watch. Easy. A battery replacement is a job which requires specialist tools and bit of patience, but it is not rocket science.  If this was never clear and obvious to watch owners, it must be obvious now: big Swiss brands are taking full advantage of you, the consumer. They are ripping you off at every opportunity, and especially so on simple jobs. If it was in their power, they would restrict the supply of every component - not just the ones they make, but even those aftermarket parts made by third-party makers. If they could, they would shut down every independent watchmaker; because to them, independent watchmakers are just annoying competition.  It's simple: if we go out of business, you will be at the mercy of multibillion dollar corporations sucking your blood and money, mercilessly. And you know that. There are 6 things you can do to help us go on and serve YOU in the years to come. I am not saying 'do it now'. I am not saying 'you must do it'. It's entirely up to you, but if you opt to do it, then our longevity is guaranteed. 1. If this newsletter does not add value to your life, then please unsubscribe. The only intention of daily emails is to 'enhance your appreciation of horology' in some way or another. While the quality varies, the intention is always the same: both information and watches on offer should add something of VALUE to your life. The email is free to you, but it does cost us time and money to prepare it and deliver it. We don't want to pay Mailchimp to annoy you or spam you with the content you don't need or value. Therefore, if you've been already on the verge of leaving us – please do that today, it would be truly appreciated. 2. If you like the newsletter, stay subscribed, and recommend us to your friends. Thank you. 3. Buy a SEIKO. Not today, not tomorrow - but one day when you are ready, buy a SEIKO from us. We make money on each and every SEIKO sold. To us this is easy money: the watch arrives brand new, in perfect condition, we take your payment and we ship it. You are happy, Seiko is happy, we are happy. Selling second hand watches is significantly more difficult than selling new ones. When you buy a Seiko from us, you help us grow. 4. Buy Mark 1. This is the only watch in our entire range sold with a decent profit. NH1, NH2 and NH3 cost more to manufacture than what they are sold for so we practically we lose money on each and every 'manufactured in Australia' watch. No pain, no glory. But when you buy Mark 1 you are literally putting cash in our pocket.  5. If you are a serious watch collector then you should put a Mark 2 on your 'to buy' list. The first batch of 50 watches to be delivered around Christmas is already reserved, however now is the time to put your name down for the next batch, scheduled for mid 2023. No down payment is required – just your commitment. Such commitment would help us in long term planning, investment in tools and material, and investment in new machinery which will help us grow and strengthen the 'Manufactured in Australia' project. A project which benefits our employees, the Australian economy and Australian national interest.  6. Buy a Mondaine clock for your office or a Mondaine watch as a present. Again, not today, but next time you need a smart, sophisticated present, remember us. Your friends and relatives will be pleasantly surprised; a present built to last for 20 or 30 years which could be used daily is not easy to find. We keep Mondaine in stock for that very reason.

Mark 2 "Curl Curl Waves" ($6,900). The Mark 1 is shown on the very top ($3,800).

What is Seiko Tuna?

 

In the 1960s, both Swiss and Japanese watchmakers 'worked out' that when watches were used professionally for helium saturation diving at great depths, they blew their glasses off during decompression. The problem was - Helium. Under high pressure, the inert Helium gas could enter the watch through regular gasket constructions, building up pressure inside the watch, equal to the pressure outside of the watch at that depth. Then, while decompressing the diver, the helium gas couldn't get out quickly enough, and thus the build-up pressure inside the watch caused the glass to blow off. In order to allow for quick helium release, the Swiss decided to construct a case with a helium valve.  The Japanese opted for another solution: to construct and build a divers watch so 'tight' that the helium couldn't enter the watch in the first place. Seiko's solution was found in a special type and construction of the gasket, combined with titanium monocoque casing. The first Tuna was built in 1975, fitted with an automatic movement, waterproof to 600m.  The rest is the history. Three years later, another release: the new quartz Tuna. It was the world's first professional Diver's 600M featuring a world-class corrosion-proof, shock resistant, airtight case.  In 1985 Seiko released a 1000m titanium Tuna with ceramic bezel protection fitted with a high grade quartz mechanism. This was not an ordinary battery operated watch, but one fitted with a purpose built mechanism: shock resistant, high torque, and super accurate. The diver's watch standard - robust, reliable, repairable - was set by Seiko. During the past couple of decades the market for divers watches exploded. New models offered everything from a dive computer to email and web browsing to banking. Yet only a handful of watches were still built to 1980s standard: a true 1000m water resistance.  In 2020, the new-old Tuna was welcomed by tens of thousands of serious watch aficionados looking for 'an old fashioned, properly built, no-nonsense' divers watch. A classic watch featuring high-tech materials like titanium, coated steel, and ceramic. A repairable watch which could be passed on to the next generation.

Inside the Tuna can

The original plan was to publish here a couple of images to show the 7C46 movement as well as the single-piece titanium case. However, since no suitable images could be found, I has no choice but to dig into it myself. The disassembly starts with removing the 4 side screws with a 1.5mm hex key. Once the screws are removed, the ceramic 'shroud' comes off, as well as the rotating bezel.  Underneath the bezel are two click springs which hold the bezel in position.

At this point in time, the watch is still fully waterproof, so removing the bezel protector for cleaning or for the replacement of the click/bezel itself does not affect water resistance. (Hint: you can clean the bezel yourself!)

Crystal removal requires a special tool. The crystal is held down by a screw-down bezel. Between the bezel and crystal there is a poly washer.

The crystal's rubber seal is of a special shape, designed to 'hug' the crystal when pressurised. The crystal itself is a sapphire, flat, faceted, 4mm thick.

The next step is to remove the minute chapter ring. Underneath the chapter ring is a rubber O-ring which provides shock-absorbance for the dial and movement.

Stem removed, movement extracted form the case.

7C46B is a high torque 7 jewel movement specifically made as a Seiko 'diver's calibre'. Operating range: between -10 ºC and +60 ºC. Accuracy: Less than 15 seconds per months when worn in temperature range between 5 ºC and 35 ºC. Or spot on when worn at the wrist! Again, these are impressive figures: 70 degrees operating range and 30 degrees guaranteed accuracy band. 7C46 is a fully repairable mechanism.

The monocoque, a single piece case.

The heart of the Tuna is the single piece case, machined entirely from a solid titanium block. No case back here! The quality of the case is simply superb, from finishes to tight tolerances. Indestructible, corrosion free.  If you are into machining and manufacturing, you will be impressed: this is not a stamped-out mass produced case, but a one-at-a-time CNC high tech machined component of 'medical grade' quality.

Reassembled, and water pressure tested. Unfortunately my water pressure tester goes only up to 10 bar. Tuna easily withstands the ten times greater pressure of 100 bar!

Attention to detail: divers safety is important! On the back of the case, a scale of 25 to 35 can be found. And the famous 'dot': the punch mark carefully placed, indented by hand. Your Tuna needs a new battery in the third quarter of 2025! Such a personal touch... Who else would mark a perfect, brand new titanium monocoque case - but Seiko. Simply saying: this is a tool watch, not a toy.

In conclusion Tuna is much more than a serious watch. It is a high tech professional divers watch and a significant historical reference to Seiko's engineering and watchmaking. A watch entirely made in Japan, by the only company in the world that makes every single watch component in house, under one roof. This piece needs no recommendation: if you are in or around the water, looking for a watch you'll never have to take off the wrist, a recognizable piece which will generate comments by those who know their stuff, then you can't pass the Tuna. Boutique price: $3,750.  As said before, my promise to you, my subscribers, is to offer you unbeatable deals on the most sought after and most iconic Seiko out there. I do believe that Tuna is worth every cent of the $3,750 retail price.  Model Reference: S23631J Case size: 49.4mm over the bezel protector, 42mm measured over the bezel.

Australian Exclusive - the two you have been waiting for!

Noosa by Night Is simply Seiko's way of saying thank you Australia for your loyal support. But make no mistake, this limited edition - 1000 pieces only within Australia and New Zealand - will have overseas watch collectors begging to get their hands on one. Bold, blue, masculine divers watch. If you have ever thought of starting a Seiko collection then this watch should be a corner stone. I am not going to say much more, but there are three things I am extremely excited about: 1. The hands and dial colour scheme. 2. The fact that the watch was made entirely in Japan. 3. It comes with both bracelet and silicon Seiko masterpiece strap.  Model reference: SPB347J. 45mm case size. Automatic movement. Water resistance 200 metres.  Boutique price: $1,500

Eucalyptus The most amazing turtle you will find in the entire Seiko collection. Limited edition Australian release of only 1000 pieces.  Model reference: SRPJ53K. 45mm case size. Automatic movement. Comes with both metal bracelet and silicon strap. Water resistance 200 metres. Boutique price: $895 And let me tell you something you won't find on watch forums or hear from so called horological promoters (still wet behind the ears). Back in the 70s when Seiko diver watches started featuring the relief motifs of a tsunami wave on the case back, owners were so amazed with this never before seen feature. Actually, only one Swiss brand had a similar relief on a divers watch - a mark of water resistance - and it was the Certina Turtle. Seiko owners were asked to take their watch off the wrist so that the wave could be admired.  A Seiko case back should never be taken for granted.

Under new management

The decision to 'force' Dad into retirement at the tender age of 82 was the right one. There is simply a point in life when work becomes a burden and when the 'under a new management' sign has to be put on the door. My brother was kind enough to assist me in getting the shop refitted, modernised, and loaded with well priced watches. We also hired two young ladies with retail experience, and on March 8, the family run business established in 1951 was once again providing 'horological services' to our loyal customers.  Was Dad happy about the retirement? Of course he wasn't - but that was hardly a surprise. We knew he would not surrender without resistance. The resistance was in the form of active shut down, long sleeps and general grumpiness. But all three of us - my mother, brother, and myself - decided to stay on the same page, to hold our position firmly, no matter what - Dad is no longer allowed to shop. Having an old, slightly demented man being in charge and issuing orders to a new and enthusiastic management would be a recipe for disaster. Occasionally, Dad would visit the new shop. He would whinge and complain about stock on display, and why his favourite Seiko clock was not prominently featured in it's all largeness so that passers-by could tell the time. More than once he told neighbours that 'he was forced out of his own business'. Luckily, like the rest of the family, our neighbours knew that his retirement was long overdue.  The new management was generating sales, but it is fair to say that the old shop had a new vibe. Which is fine; we have realistic expectations and we are prepared to continue investing in the future, while letting the youngsters 'take it to the next level'. But last week, out of the blue, both staff resigned. They handed over the shop keys with the explanation that 'as the times are getting uncertain, going back to school to further education makes more sense than ever'. Thank you Putin. On Monday morning, I got a message from my brother with a simple caption: "he has won". Freshly shaved, reinvigorated, like a Phoenix rising from its ashes, the old man was back behind the workbench. At 8pm, a second message arrived: "David and Dad sold 4 watches, replaced 7 batteries and a bunch of straps." I have no idea who David is. Probably a kid from church or a neighbour. And I have no doubt that in a few weeks from now, there will be a major problem of some kind followed by a phone call from either doctor or accountant, wanting to talk to me. But until that day, I'll let the old man enjoy his 'victory'. What the heck - if he wants to die behind the watchmaker's bench, so be it. We'll all die of something anyway. (to be continued...)

A strong watch brand is not built by a strong watchmaker, but by his strong supporters

Early Friday morning I got a quick email: "Hey Nick, your Mark 1 watch is listed on eBay. Only $2,100. Just letting you know". Shortly after, a phone call, from another Rebelde ambassador, also letting me know that 'someone out there is selling a Mark 1'. Then around midday, a visitor to the shop mentioned too that 'my watch is for sale' and that he is seriously tempted to buy it. The only problem was that he already had one. Clearly that 'cheap' Mark 1 was generating quite a bit of interest. And somehow, there was an expectation and sense of urgency within 'our community' that something had to be done - by me. My watches rarely appear on the second hand market. For the obvious reason: once I drop dead, those watches will become more desirable and most likely, shoot up in value. But at the end of the day, with 200 Mark 1 out there, it is only natural that eventually one will appear on the pre-owned market before that happy day. Watches are bought and sold; circumstances change. Does Mr Patek get upset every time Patek is sold on eBay? Does Mr Lange and all his sons or Monsieur Breguet get upset when watches bearing their names appear auctioned away with no reserve? They couldn't care less. But to sit idle was not an option, so on Sunday night I went on eBay and for the first time in my life, in the search box, I entered my own name. There it was: an orphan Mark 1, in all its glory. The seller did a good job describing it's uniqueness, and gave the watch deserving credit on both appearance and performance. But the seller was not the original owner, the listing was from a pawn shop. It was obvious that the original Mark 1 owner, our ambassador, has fallen on tough times and had to pawn the watch. This is why the watch ended up on eBay. The realisation that my watch was on a display in a pawn shop, offered for sale together with cordless drills, broken Nintendo consoles, used gym equipment and piles of unwanted junk was simply unbearable. In a nano-second, I clicked the 'buy it now' button.  Now, you may think I have rescued the watch from kindness of my heart, and that story of redemption and sacrifice leads to some epic grand finale where the watch is going to be returned and reunited with it's original owner. If you do, you are mistaken. My plan is simple: I want to find a new home for Mark 1, and a new guardian who will appreciate it, wear it proudly, and take good care of it in years to come. I want to give it as a gift to someone worthy of receiving such a valuable present. As you know, I honestly believe that Seiko Astron is one of the four watches you simply must have in your collection. Today, I have twelve Astrons for sale. If you buy an Astron today, you will go into the draw to win the rescued Mark 1. Show me your patronage and support, and I'll show you my respect. You support me and my business, I'll make you the proud owner of a watch you deserve.