Thursday, March 28, 2019

Now stocking the best watchmaker's tweezers in the world - Dumont

As you already know, Dumont is considered the manufacturer of the world's finest tweezers. In business since 1881, Dumont makes tweezers in 11 different alloys, three classes, and dozens of shapes. If you are looking for "good tweezers" Dumont makes good tweezers. If you want "really good tweezers" Dumont makes really good tweezers as well. If you need the "Very Best Tweezers" made in Switzerland, then the Dumoxel and Dumostar alloys are the way to go – a perfect tool for professional watchmaker.

Six months ago, we placed our first order with Dumont for a selected range of watchmaker’s tweezers – and we are now proud to announce the very first delivery of hand polished, made ‘per order’ tweezers. In stock!

Dumostar 0109 (Style 1,3,5)

This Dumont patented alloy is composed of C, Cr, Mo, Mn, Co, Ni and Si. Dumostar is more elastic and more resistant to corrosion than the best stainless steel. It is also resistant to mineral and organic acids as well as salt. Although slightly more expensive than other alloys, Dumostar is 100% anti-magnetic and is resistant to sterilisation temperatures of up to 500°C. Dumostar 0109 tweezers are simply the top of the Dumont range. Price: $81 + GST each

Dumoxel 0103 (Style 1,2,3,4,5)

Dumoxel is composed of C, Cr, Ni, Mo and Cu and is the most popular choice. This alloy was developed and patented by Dumont to offer the best in resistance to corrosion thanks to its high concentration of molybdenum and chromium. Dumoxel also guarantees an excellent resistance to sulphuric environments, hydrochloric acid, as well as to all other mineral and organic acids. Dumoxel is 95% anti-magnetic, resistant up to temperatures of around 400° C. A great choice for general bench work. Price: $45 + GST each. 

Bergeon Tweezers: the famous Ref. 7026 set of 8
Set of 8 stainless steel anti-magnetic tweezers: 7026-1 / 7026-1-2 / 7026-3 / 7026-3C / 7026-AA / 7026-5 / 7026-7 / 7026-SS. All Tweezers are resistant to corrosion, acids and alkali. Price: $359 +GST for a complete box set.

To all of you, we remain grateful, and we are here to serve you.

Wednesday, March 27, 2019

A perfect tool for opening pocket watches

When you visit our online store, how about getting a great present for a fellow watch enthusiast or even yourself - the Bergeon Swiss made knife and case opener ref. 7403 "officier suisse" with the beautiful Victorinox symbol.  It features two blades.  A super sharp one and a blunt one.  A perfect tool for opening pocket watches.  Only $35.

Swiss spring loaded bars for vintage Rolex watches

For those of you who like to change straps on your vintage Rolex watches, good news!  We just got delivery of Swiss made spring bars YH type in sizes 19 and 20mm.  The 20mm ones are fantastic replacement bars for vintage Rolex Sports models like Submariner and GMT Master with a pin hole on the side of the lug.  The 19mm is suitable for Daytona and all other models with 19mm space between the lugs. 

The price:  $19 for a bag of 10.

Who ate the Swiss cheese?

It is said that in the 1980s the Columbian narco business was bringing in so much cash into the country that drug lords ran out of secure storage space. One cartel alone spent over $12,000 a month just on rubber bands and more than 10% of all dollar bills were eaten by rats.   Indeed, oversupply is as bad as undersupply, and in either case the logistics of running a business can be a nightmare.

From the 1940s to 1960 the Swiss were manufacturing more watches than all other nations combined. An army of watchmakers, brands, machinists, technicians, assemblers and tool makers worked in a bubble. The thirty golden years of Swiss watchmaking was the result of a perfect storm: two world wars, the need for an accurate watch, technical advancements in manufacturing, an endless supply of money looking for shelter, and cheap eastern and southern European labour.

The bubble burst in the early 1970s when the Japanese entered the global high tech economy in a mighty way - the world had enough of outdated pre-war technology: we wanted brand new Sony TVs, video recorders, Seiko quartz watches, Nikon cameras.  We wanted the cool stuff at a price almost
everyone could afford - and we got it all. The Japanese ate the cheese of Swiss horology; and the Chinese picked at the last few crumbs.

Swiss watchmaking reinvented itself in the late 1990s when big brands and fund managers figured out that there was still money to be made in watchmaking. But the 'new' industry focused on luxury, not volume. The only question the Swiss were desperate to answer was a weird one: what was the absolute lowest quality product that the luxury market would accept as a 'luxury watch'? A typical question asked by a fund manager - not a watchmaker. The answer was: really anything - as long as it had 'Swiss made' on the dial.

Vertical brand integration and the Internet took care of the rest: the Emperor's new clothes never looked better. Once aging, the Swiss got back into the cheese making business: the same Emmental, just larger holes, and a bigger box allowing more room for the brand's logo.  Everyone was happy.

But like the rat problem in Medellin, the 'new' Swiss watchmaking business plan failed to foresee one small detail: the new mass-produced 'Swiss' mechanisms no longer needing the army of technicians, tool makers, specialists, and even watchmakers to assemble new watches. Most of them were now obsolete, replaced by modern CNC machines and robots. The end result: an industry which had very little demand for quality, Swiss-made traditional watchmaking hand tools!

Here is just one example: a humble watchmaking staking set. For hundreds of years this was an essential tool for both watchmakers and watch repairers. The precision made punches are a work of art; the tool was used daily and would last for generations - but in 2019 modern Swiss brands need no skilled hands outside their own workshops. The restriction on supply of spare parts means less work for independent watchmakers. Less work means no future, no plans to invest, and no plans to employ or train apprentices. Consequently, the Swiss tool makers who need the volume to stay in business are the ultimate victims in 'the new Swiss horology'.

Yes, you can restart watchmaking of a luxury brand, but you cannot restart fine Swiss toolmaking without the support of hundreds of small independent watchmakers.

In December last year I placed an order for four staking sets and one jewelling tool. The two sets from Bergeon arrived promptly, but the two from Star are still on back order. The Seitz jewelling press is apparently on its way. And with each and every order of Swiss tools, it is obvious that we are dealing with remnants of what was once a mighty industry. As I type this, we have more tools on back order (fully paid for!) than tools in stock.

And then, there are some amazing, unexpected developments: in less than three months we have sold over 300 watchmaker's loupes, hundreds of screwdrivers, cleaning cloths and plexiglass polishers. Thanks to the support of enthusiasts - not professionals - our tool import business is growing; and quite frankly, Swiss cheese never tasted better.


Monday, March 25, 2019

Finally - it's set and ready to go

Thanks to your interest, and trying to accommodate your demands, we've finally got the dates for the Watchmaker's courses to be held in the coming weeks.

But before we go any further, here is the answer to the most commonly asked question: are the watchmaking courses for me?

The answer is - absolutely yes!

Actually both W1.0 and W2.0 are designed specifically for you - "an enthusiastic watch enthusiast". If you have good eyesight, basic manual skills and attention to detail,  you will have the time of your life.  In just a few hours, over the period of one month, you will get a taste of what horology is all about, what makes the watch tick; how to disassemble and assemble both quartz and mechanical timepieces, and much more .  Your watch will never look the same again, and your appreciation for precision and workmanship will increase exponentially.

Class Dates:  

W1.0 - Four Tuesday evenings in May, starting at 5:30 pm.

W2.0A - Four Tuesday evenings in April, starting at 5:30 pm

W2.0B - All day workshop 9 am to 6pm Sunday, April 14th.

Please read carefully.

W1.0 is an entry level course.  The timepieces/watch movements you will be working on are provided.  However, you would need to invest in your set of tools which are available from:

We will cover a number of topics - from how to sharpen and shape screwdrivers to the complete disassembly and reassembly of both quartz and mechanical manual wind watch mechanisms. It will be an exciting mix of 30% theory and 70% bench time. We also encourage you to setup your small work space at home. Tutoring fee:  $400.

W2.0A is a course focusing on the Seiko SKX divers watch, fitted with the 7S26 automatic mechanism. This course will cover complete step by step disassembly and reassembly of the Seiko, as well as time keeping adjustments. You will also learn cleaning, lubrication, water resistance testing, and jewelling.  This course is run over four evenings, 2 hours per session.  You will be required to buy our 2.0 tool set:

Having a Seiko 7S26 movement watch is absolutely essential - either your own or, optionally, you can buy one from us for $490 (brand new original Japanese made). Tutoring fee:  $490.

W2.0B is a full day course specifically organised for non-Sydney students. The topic and requirements are the same as for W2.0A.  The course will be held on Sunday 14 April, starting at 9:00am, lasting all day - until we're finished.  

Seats are strictly limited to 5 students for all classes. Please contact us ASAP to book. Note: buying a tool kit or Seiko watch does not automatically entitle you to the course – so, please, contact us first.  Tutoring fee:  $490

You will be required to buy our 2.0 tool set:

Thursday, March 21, 2019

Nick & the chocolate factory

It is official!  CHOKAMOUR, an Australian maker of the finest hand crafted REAL chocolate is now the official chocolatier of the Australian made watch! We love you, Kylie! Share the chocolate with someone special in your life, and keep the wooden box to store your Bergeon Swiss tools.  It's a win/win for everyone!

We've just opened up a bar and we all agree - Kylie's chocolate is something special.  Only two ingredients are used to make her chocolate - cacao and sugar.  You can't get much purer or richer than that.  Plus for the health conscious and ethically minded among you, these chocolates are organic, vegan, gluten free, and made with direct trade ingredients.  What more could ask for?

The cost is $20 for our uniquely-decorated wooden box and two 45 gram bars which is an absolute bargain for hand-crafted artisan Australian chocolate.

Of course, we have only a very small quantity of chocolates on hand so place an order as soon as possible.   If you are coming in to see us you are welcome to admire them in store (unfortunately, sorry, no samples allowed because we ate them!).

To order your Australian made chocolate box sets go to:

PS:  Kylie, we are very grateful you gave up landscape architecture to become a master chocolate maker!  Hats off to this Australian pioneer.


Ideal screwdriver for Cartier small and mid-size links

ustralians just love Cartier Tank watches.  For years they have been one of our bestselling ladies' watches and whenever one becomes available it's shipped Australia wide.  Of course, re-sizing the bracelet to the right size can be tricky for a new owner but to adjust the Cartier bracelet, regardless of the model (small size, mid size, large size) you just need one screwdriver.  Do it yourself in no time.  Order your "Cartier screwdriver" today.
Bergeon screwdriver 1.4mm ref. 30080.06

Chromium plated.  Grey coloured ring.


Watchmaking 2.0 – a unique opportunity to take your horology to the next level of sophistication!

How cool would it be to claim that the very watch you wear daily is the same watch you have personally disassembled, reassembled, modified  and  adjusted - all with your own two hands? Indeed, only a handful of watch collectors and enthusiasts that I know have taken their love for watches to this level.

Thanks to W2.0 you too can join the Hall of Fame - and tell/show everyone what you are made of!

I am prepared to help you reach this important milestone by offering a unique opportunity:  tools, assistance and all the necessary support to turn your project into a GUARANTEED success.

Watchmaking 2.0 is a group project, available to a maximum of 5 students. The watch:  Seiko Divers SKX007/009. Time: four x 2 hour sessions during the month of April.   At our premises.

I would be happy to provide the following:

- a brand new Seiko watch, original 'made in Japan' automatic day-date watch.   The cost of the watch is $490
- top quality Swiss tools, your investment of $498
- tutoring (4 x 2 hours) , access to specialist tools, lubricants, timing machine, cleaning machine, water pressure tester, and supervision at bench ( $490)
- guaranteed success:  at the end of the month, your Seiko will perform like a brand new watch again.                       

You are expected to :

-  set up your own work area at home and do the majority of disassembly/assembly on your own
-  be cooperative, enthusiastic and focused to complete the project
-  make a total investment of $1,478. Of course, the watch ($490) and tools ($498) are yours to keep.

A few years ago, I created an online disassembly tutorial for the Seiko 7S26 watch. Since then, hundreds of watch enthusiasts all over the world have successfully completed the project, but only 1 in 5 have completed the reassembly. Watchmaking is tricky: without the supervision and guidance, as well as access to expensive tools and professional environment, an online tutorial can only take you so far.

W2.0 takes a completely different approach:  it's time to get serious!  With all students working on  the very same calibre, using their own high quality tools, and guided by a third-generation watchmaker face to face, the chances of completing the project are 100%  guaranteed.

Seats are limited to 5 students. There are also a couple more pre-requisites:  good eyesight, a steady hand, and the willingness to learn. I am looking for students who will appreciate the opportunity to enter my private workshop space and spend time under my guidance - not merely a customer who will buy a watch or tools for the sake of acquisition.  If you are one of those online students who have previously attempted my 7S26 DIY course, then this is the time to get it right.

To book/reserve your spot, please email me directly, introducing yourself.   If we have a spot for you, Karin will take care of the rest.

Finally, a word of two about why a Seiko SKX divers watch is the perfect choice for intermediate students of horology.

- it is complex enough to work on, but in the case of loss or damage, parts are abundant
- it is a great value for money watch with huge base of online followers. Like no other Japanese watch out there, SKX has proven its relevance, adhered to Seiko’s strong reputation without mega-dollar Swiss-style marketing
- fully waterproof, very robust, a great looking sports watch recognisable not just by watch enthusiasts but real, everyday watch owners all over the world.
- possibly the only 100% in-house made watch in the world
- an excellent time keeper! While SKX models assembled all over Asia tend to be reasonably accurate, domestic Japanese pieces are absolutely fantastic. Here is the photo of a SKX out of the box , checked last night: +2 to +4 seconds per day, beautiful amplitude and zero beat error

- fully repairable: a complete brand new movement is available for under $100 . Brand new Japanese divers rubber strap: $19!

A photo of you , behind the workbenches,  with your watch disassembled down to the last bit, then reassembled and ticking like new? Priceless!

Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Watchmaking 1.0 class every Tuesday night


I'm glad to report that another Tuesday watchmaking 1.0 class went well.  Our focus was on probably the most famous Swiss quartz mechanism of all time - the ETA 955.412.  We got deeply into movement disassembly and the students had a unique opportunity to handle some of the smallest watch components.   Again, we stayed till late but the students who put in extra effort managed to even get their movements assembled with surprisingly little assistance.


Staying still for over an hour and a half, heavily focused on a task, was not easy but the ultimate reward is newly acquired skills and knowledge.  One thing is certain: the more time you spend behind the bench, the more you will appreciate your watch.  And for a watch enthusiast this is a priceless reward in itself. 

For those of you who missed our March course, good news.  On 2 May we are starting the next round with 5 new students. The cost of the course is $400 for four Tuesday night sessions plus the cost of the tools (see below).

While this is not a pre-requirement, we would like to give priority to students who are particularly keen to set up their own work space at home.  If this sounds like you please reply to this email and tell me about your skill level, your age, your interests, and what you would most like to achieve out of the course.

Those of you who are already asking about Watchmaking 2.0, this project is well underway but I'm not quite ready yet to announce it.  All I can say is we will be working on a Seiko diver's automatic watch and you will love it!                

You shouldn't suffer for horology

There is nothing more annoying than a short leather strap!  It's unsafe, ugly and unsophisticated.  If you are cursed (or blessed?) to have an XXL body or wrist, then you are fully aware that 'custom made' is often your only option when it comes to buying shoes, clothing, belts - and leather watch straps.

Occasionally we get asked to add links to a 20cm full size bracelet.  We know there are some big wrists out there and we don't want you to miss out on these beautiful straps. So last month we asked our leather craftsman, James Young from Alice Springs, to help us expand our range of fine hand-made kangaroo straps to include not just XL straps but XXL straps.  And a parcel of 10 pieces arrived yesterday: black, dark brown and tan. The good news: our monster straps are offered at the same price as standard length stock - only $140.

Width: 24mm suitable for all rebelde Titanium models and the newest NH 'manufactured in Australia' model. Of course, this strap would also be a perfect choice for any other watch with 24mm spacing between the lugs such as Panerai or IWC .  The buckle end width is 22mm.



Send me an email to to place your order                   

Thursday, March 14, 2019

Hello machinists

We love our machinist and engineer subscribers and we love sharing with them, and the rest of you, our workshop project updates.  And we have got a beauty today.

A silicon extrusion die for an Australian manufacturer.  The slot is 3mm wide with the radius on the points is 50 microns, cut with 100 micron wire.  Completely manufactured in our Brookvale workshop.  Again, we are not chasing jobs outside the watchmaking industry but when someone knocks on our door in desperation we are only too happy to help.  This is the fourth job for the same company and they now want us to do their entire die production for 2019/2010.  Unfortunately we had to decline.  Our focus must remain on watchmaking.

For more workshop updates follow our Instagram:

Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Watchmaking 1.0: the basics

Last night's class was like going through a mincer.

The planned 1.5 hour session went for 3 hours. A small group of five students got their first taste of the decasing of a watch mechanism; they learned what makes a watch tick, and even undertook some minor repairs.  Andrew, Michael, Gemma and myself were at their disposal;  we allowed the students to sit behind our workbenches and even use our own tools. In one word: we have created a very unique atmosphere - turning our workshop and office into an educational facility - like no other in this city of five million.

For those of you who are unable to join us: some basics about watchmaking.

1. Ability to see

A watchmaker’s bench/work space should be located in well lit room, ideally with plenty of natural light. In addition, a bench lamp is essential.  Since you are going to deal with very small and expensive components machined to perfection, you should be able to see them properly.

- bench lamp
- at least two loupes, one with medium magnification and one with higher ( #3 and #1 )

2. Ability to disassemble

A set of quality screwdrivers is absolutely essential.  Go for the best you can afford.  A basic set of 5 screwdrivers is sufficient for a student.  Even more importantly, shaping and sharpening screwdrivers is the first task a student must master.

- set of screwdrivers
- sharpening tool
- sharpening board with abrasives
- movement holder

3. Ability to handle

Quality professional grade tweezers are other essential bench tools. Tweezers come in a variety of shapes and sizes. A student of horology would need at least 3 pairs: medium, fine and sturdy tip. Again, with medium and fine tweezers the only option is to invest in high quality Swiss tools.

4. Practice, practice, practice! 

Get yourself a junk pocket watch movement, or a wrist watch, and start disassembling,  observing and figuring out what each component does and how it is related to others.  Don’t worry about breaking or destroying parts - just practice as much as you can and in a few months you will be ready to take it to the next level.
In order to make your life easier, I have put together the Watchmaker's Tool Kit 1.0.  

It consists of the essential quality watchmaker’s tools . It is a fully 'upgradeable and expandable' set.  Most importantly, it represents value for money, and - unlike cheap tools found on eBay - the Kit 1.0 has even resellable value. Finally, each tool is available individually as a replacement so your kit will remain complete - forever.

Tuesday, March 12, 2019

Watchmaking on Tuesday

Tonight is our second 'instalment' of Watchmaking 1.0. To say that our small class of 5 students is diverse would be quite an understatement: a medical doctor, funds manager, mysterious 'office worker', a lady locksmith, and a barrister. Yet all of them simply love watches and love learning more about what makes them tick.

Last Tuesday we set our goals, talked a lot, tooled up, had fun - and tonight we are getting into it. Each student will be provided with a watch with a task to research, then pull it apart in a methodical and professional way, under our supervision.  The end goal is to answer just one question: what makes a watch - a watch?

Of course, and as you may have guessed,  I have been already accused of 'prostituting the trade'  by letting 'total outsiders' acquire the tools and 'fiddle with watches'. Some of my colleagues are clearly stuck in the 1930s’ mentality of secrecy and deliberate restriction to keep the trade 'pure and unpolluted'.

Workshop Update

Two pieces of news to report: first, more custom collets for our Citizen lathe are arriving from Germany. The collets are made by the tool specialist Schlenker, and are simply a work of art. This particular one is to hold a 1.2mm diameter screw, long nose construction, for fully automated turning in a sub-spindle. Cost:  around 500 Euros. We now have 5 in the set for various diameters.

Second; you have heard this so many times: "there is no such thing as a broken rebelde/NH watch". And not just for now, or for a decade or two: we intend to look after your watch for generations. For that to happen, we need to keep training young watchmakers and keep stocking spare parts. The box in the photo contains every single component (actually at least seven of each!) for our NH1 calibre: from our own bridges, crews, Swiss gears, pallets, down to the smallest jewel. You bring your broken watch, we say – "no worries, your part is in stock" - and an hour later, your watch is ticking again. How cool is that?

By the way, here is the question: who makes storage boxes to last for 100
years? Well, the company which has been in business themselves for 300 years - Bergeon.     


Thursday, March 7, 2019

"You cannot get them landed in your letterbox any cheaper than NH prices"

They were the very words in an email from one of our subscribers and shop purchasers recently.  In his own words he "wasted nearly 90 minutes trawling the net for Town Talk polishing cloths!    On face value, some look cheaper, but they are the small size.  Or if they are the large size, postage kicks the price right up there!  Or if postage is free, then the Exchange rate kills you!"

John has done the research for you so you don't have to.

What is the price of watch oil per litre?

Just over $25,000.  Luckily, 2mls watch escapement oil will last for a couple of years - even in the busiest repair shop. The amount of oil applied in each ruby jewel is minuscule, however, a re-lube on a mechanical watch would require at least 4 different lubricants.  Watchmakers buy their oil in a 'set' consisting of various grades.  Moebius is the leading watch lubricant supplier, based in Switzerland and owned by Swatch Group.

Applying the oil is an art form - but when using the right tools this task can be mastered even by amateurs and hobbyists.               

Bergeon assortment of oilers Ref. 30102-PO4

Bergeon oilers with protective caps in an assortment of sizes.

Swiss Made.

Price:  $19

Bergeon automatic precision oiler Ref. 7720-5

Drop injection oiler. For train wheel pivots, cup bearings, everywhere the oiler has to be positioned before depositing oil.

Can be used for general work.

Swiss Made.

Price: $150

Moeius lubricant kit for mechanical watches Ref. 8500-KIT-MEC

9104/5 ml Train, frictions steel/steel

9415/2 ml Escapement

9504/5 ml Very high frictions

9010/2 ml Train

9501/5 ml Frictions hand setting

Price:  $250


Wednesday, March 6, 2019

Let's get the ball rolling

Before I even made the decision to start importing and selling Swiss Watchmaker’s tools, I also decided that my tool prices, whenever possible, will be at least equal to the prices of the largest US tool dealers. Not because I have money to burn or a big heart - being competitive means being
better, not equal to.

Enough talk: let’s get the ball rolling:

Bergeon Swiss made plastic tweezers, USD $4.50. My price: AUD $5. Plastic tweezers are used to handle watch batteries: obviously, you can't handle them with metal tweezers (shortcut!) or by hand (leaving a corrosive acid layer). Great tool for any work bench.

Bergeon 7024-1: Stainless steel, non-magnetic and anti-acid watchmaking tweezers. Length: 120mm. Ideal 'all around' tweezers for fine general work. From handling spring bars, bracelet pins down to gears, stems and screws. AUD $35 only.

Bergeon 7024-3 Stainless steel, non-magnetic and anti-acid. Finer tips, a typical professional tweezer priced at a hobbyist's level.

Bergeon 7025-SS Same as above but, my goodness: long (135mm), fine, slender and handsome! Think the Mercedes AMG of Swiss tweezers. AUD $48

AF Switzerland: the famous model #27. Another all-time watchmaker's
favourite. General work. Springy and sturdy, on the heavier side than 7025SS.
AUD $35

Finally a magnificent set of 8 Bergeon tweezers, Ref 7026. US price
converted to AUD: $398 + $30 delivery + $40 GST which totals to over AUD
$470.  My price: $395 plus $9 for next day delivery. GST already included in price! Yes, cheaper than in US!

Stay tuned for more tools soon.   

Bergeon plastic watchmaker's tweezers ref. 6460

Length: 125mm.  Flat, non-corrugated and very fine nose.

Price: $5      



Bergeon anti-magnetic watchmaker's tweezers Ref. 7024-1

Length: 120mm.  Stainless steel, non-magnetic and anti-acid watchmaking tweezers.

These tweezers are for general work.

Price: $35

Bergeon anti-magnetic watchmaker's tweezers Ref. 7024-3

Length:  120mm.  Stainless steel, non-magnetic and anti-acid watchmaking tweezers.

Price: $35

AF Switzerland tweezers Ref. 164.704.27

Length: 135mm.  Weight: 0.2kg.

Stainless steel, non-magnetic and anti-acid watchmaking tweezers.

Swiss Made.

Price: $35

Bergeon anti-magnetic extra long watchmaker's tweezers Ref. 7025-SS

Length:  140mm.  Stainless steel, non-magnetic and anti-acid watchmaking tweezers.

Price:  $48

Bergeon stainless steel anti-magnetic, anti-acid tweezers Ref. 7026

A set of 8 Bergeon tweezers all resistant to corrosion, acids and alkali.

Price:  $395