Tuesday, June 18, 2024

Celebrating 100 years of the Seiko brand

 

In 1924, Seiko introduced the first wristwatch with 'Seiko' on the dial, signifying the beginning of the Seiko Brand. This year 2024, marks the 100th Anniversary of this landmark event.

To celebrate, Seiko have released a special edition 1965 Heritage Prospex, powered by Seiko's latest in-house 3 day power reserve movement. Charcoal-grey dial with gold-coloured accents. 40mm case size. Stainless steel case and bracelet. Additional NATO strap. Sapphire crystal. Water resistance 300 metres. SPB455J. 

Boutique price: $2,350

To continue the celebrations, Seiko have also released two additional re-interpretations of the original Seiko diver's watch from 1965, also upgraded with a 72 hour power reserve calibre and enhanced water resistance to 300 metres, a first for Prospex non-saturation diver’s watches. 
And recognising that some find Seiko watches too bulky, they have responded by slimming down the case, shortening the lugs, and using a smaller clasp across their latest release. 
Available in black and blue. 

Boutique price: $1,995

Blue SPB451J 
Black SPB453J

Some things are just impossible to depict through a set of photos

 

Yes, anyone can take a photo of the Opera House, but a photo of an operatic performance will be nothing more than a pale graphic snapshot of multisensory time-transcending artistic performance.

A photo of a wedding, a sailboat race, or a succulent lamb shank slowly cooked under a clay pot - as colourful and detailed as it may be, will never convey the very experience of the event.

The same applies to the NH55 timascus guilloche watches - they are completely and totally une expĂ©rience rather than merely a horological device. Not only impossible to present in photos, but impossible to photograph to start with.

The NH55 comes to life when exposed to light in motion. The play of light on the timascus surface is what creates a unique, sensory experience to its viewer. The main plates, the contrast between steel, German silver, titanium, brass and Timascus, the finishes, details, the motion of the balance wheel; feathered hands and batons on a timascus guilloche dial, amplified or muted depending on the time of day, and the light source itself.
All that captured by the viewers own eye, processed by the power of their mind, and imagination, inevitably filtered or magnified by their own understanding of horology, their own expectations and ultimately, their own desires.

This week the first NH55 watches have reached their guardians in the US and Europe. Watch collectors who couldn't wait to get their hands on horological pieces manufactured in Australia, by an independent watchmaker. To say that I was confident that our watch would meet their expectations would be understatement- not for a second did I have any doubts that they would be pleased with their decision. Yet it is important to recognize the obvious: it was them who took a real risk of investing in a watch that could not be photographed, nor described in words, and for that alone, they deserve full credit for their bravery. On the other hand, impressing a watch collector who already has every watch ever made by every reputable and established independent watchmaker, plus many dozens of watches from the most prestigious Swiss brands is simply impossible. Once you see the "Queen of the Night" on stage, an incarnation of Erika Miklosa, every other diva is just another Cinderella. 

Of course I knew that once we hit a certain price point, the watch will start attracting the most discerning collectors. And funnily enough, neither Josh, Andrew, nor myself, not for a second, dreaded their feedback. With all due respect to them, and to ourselves, the feedback is simply irrelevant. Which, in itself, is the ultimate makers flex.

I believe in transparency: out of 16 watches, we have already sold seven. A few more pieces are under negotiation. We are not concerned about setting and breaking any sales records, nor do we have to sell them all at once, in a day. We are quite happy to sell them organically- by allowing them to sell themselves, at their own pace, in their own time. For which we are firmly on track.

The project is not completed. There is one more thing to be done: a hard-cover book on the NH55 project, depicting in detail each watch, it’s dial, mechanism, down to the unique hand made box. A couple of chapters on the ‘manufactured in Australia’ story, references to previously issued watches, including the ‘rebelde’ line. Plus a chapter on manufacturing with examples of high precision devices made by your favourite ‘watchmaker’s team’. We have no option but to lock this project in time, to preserve it for the next generation – or at least, as a guideline to anyone else who one day would want to retrace our footsteps.

(If you would like to be notified once the book is out, please drop Gemma a line, that would help us determining how many copies will be printed. Price: $100.) 

Now, as an intelligent and sophisticated watch enthusiasts, you are most likely asking yourself one or two questions:

If the NH55 is such a “glowing international success” as I am portraying it to be, why have we not read a single line about the project from a local or international media outlet, or even a blogger? Well, for a simple reason: every time someone approaches us offering a media cover, and before we even get into promotion details, without any hesitation, without beating around the bush, I make them aware that such a promotion will not be paid for by us.
I don’t pay for editorials or media advertising, newsworthy or not. Immediately they back off. Media is in the business of making money, not in the business of talking about ‘manufactured in Australia’ or reporting on newsworthy events. Which is ultimately a loss to their subscribers and readers, not ours.

The second question: if the NH55 is such a “glowing international success” as I am portraying it to be, sold at $35,000 a pop, why am I still selling Seiko watches, cheap pocket watches, and indeed Swiss second hand watches? Why don’t we focus our entire energy on making our own watches?
This is a question I don’t have an answer for, at least, not yet. The ‘rebelde’ project started as a rebellion, with a specific reason for existence: to prove a point that a small independent watchmaker is every bit as good and every bit as capable as any other brand or watchmaker, and as such, it should remain relevant and respected. Starting an independent brand is not only possible, but investing in manufacturing facilities and developing strategic manufacturing capabilities is good for other businesses and ultimately for Australia at large. In that, we have succeeded. We’ve made that point so strongly and so loudly that even if we never make another watch, we are good, fair and square.

What will the future bring – we shall see.

The remaining few NH55 watches are available for viewing at our office. Please call for appointment. 

Happy collecting,
Nick Hacko

Seiko SPEEDTIMER 2024 release

“Classic 1970s Motorsport Edition”
Why are we excited?

- Vintage look, modern interpretation
- Amazing bezel, finely bevelled sapphire crystal
- Colour combination rarely seen
- No-fuss, super accurate solar-powered movement
- Chronograph with 4 tick per second: the true feel of a mechanical movement
- Impressive, but not over the top size of 41.4mm
- Clinical clean dial: just SEIKO and Prospex symbol
- Very fair price: $1,050 to $1,150
 
Seiko 'Circuit Race' Black/Gold SSC941
Our price: $1,150
Seiko 'Grand Touring' Blue/Grey SSC939
Our price: $1,100
Seiko 'Racing Sports' Green/Cream SSC943
Our price: $1,050