Friday, November 20, 2020

The Seiko Sharp Edge series - Japanese artistry meets Seiko functionality

 

“Since time immemorial, a central aspect of the Japanese sense of beauty has been simplicity.

To create objects or images of refinement and grace with few elements and no extraneous decoration has long been an aim of many Japanese craftsmen and artists and it is this aesthetic that lies at the heart of an important new series within the Presage collection.

In every detail, this new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series is a powerful and fresh expression of Japanese artistry.”

Seiko uses a Japanese ‘Asanoha’ pattern - an angular geometric hemp leaf pattern, on its dial. This pattern captures the light and creates a contrasting display of light and shadow. It has a sharp case and bracelet with both brushed and polished surfaces which only accentuates the appeal of this series. The sharp edge series unique, bold design choices are usually reserved for Seiko’s big brother Grand Seiko but with Seiko dedicated to offering up a new range of higher end watches, this is the perfect middle ground. 

We have in stock two Asanoha pattern Seiko's - navy blue and white: 
Seiko Presage Automatic Ref. SPB167J1
Navy blue dial. 39.3mm case size. Water resistance 10bar. Sapphire crystal.

Price: $1,495
Seiko Presage Automatic Ref. SPB165J1
White dial. 39.3mm case size. Water resistance 10bar. Sapphire crystal.

Price: $1,495

Whatever the time is made of

 

"Hey, do you remember this?" asked Andrew while handing over a flyer which flew out from a pile of magazines.

Of course I do: the 'Opening Special' invitation to the good people of Parramatta; an announcement that a migrant watchmaker from the Balkans has arrived, fresh off the boat.

The list of watches accepted for repair was simply a reflection of what 1994 jewellers had on display. The clock repair service was a reality: and in no time, I was flooded with cuckoo clocks, junk mantle clocks from the 1950s, the usual stuff no other reputable watchmaker would touch. 

But I had no choice and 12 hours per day behind the bench was standard. Sunday was a normal trading day too, but keeping Shabbat was a big deal - an obscure family tradition of a Judeo-Christianity; a sign of non-alignment and independence.

As for the promise of 'friendly service': well that one was broken soon. To be perfectly honest, most of my customers only wanted good workmanship at a low price and could not care less for that extra bit of free friendliness. I've learned quickly that in my new country, friendliness is rather an expensive commodity, one to be given away and shared to the deserving, and only when the relationship is based on mutual respect. True experts in their fields - surgeons, flight controllers, mathematicians, micro-machinists and watchmakers are highly motivated, highly focused nerds, grumpy and edgy, focused on chasing either time itself or whatever the time is made of.

Parramatta was tough. The lack of sophistication was unbearable, and $650 rent for 17 square meters of retail space paid every Friday to St. George Bank was the biggest rip-off. As my mother would say: pay the fine, but keep the receipt.

Last night we were ready to deliver two crucial components to an Australian business. I can't tell you who the customer is, what the parts are for, or even for what industry. But we - our small team of makers - delivered micron precision components in less than four days. We've solved the problem our customer was struggling with for months. We’ve also secured an order for nine more parts, to be delivered next week. Manufactured in Australia.

Twenty six years in the making, worth every second.

Friday, November 13, 2020

Alpinist - the most enigmatic watch ever. Or what is the colour of British Classiness?

 

Bobby is obsessed with the Seiko Alpinist, so it made perfect sense to ask him to introduce the model to our subscribers.

He took his time – most of the afternoon to be precise – but this morning, when the article was ready for press, he told us that he has no story to share. For one reason only: the story has been so masterfully told, in detail, by none other than the two Seiko designers who were involved in the creation of the Green Alpinist.

And here it is, for your enjoyment – horological sophistication at it’s best. 

“The green watch, the most enigmatic Seiko watch ever”
https://www.seiko-design.com/en/stories-en/alpinist-en/
Seiko Alpinist Prospex SPB121J1
39.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and brown leather strap. 
Water resistance 20 bar. Automatic movement - 6R35
Price: $1,200
We also have the white and black version.
Seiko Alpinist Prospex SPB119J1
39.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and black leather strap. 
Water resistance 20 bar. Automatic movement - 6R35
Price: $1,200
Seiko Alpinist Prospex SPB117J1
39.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and bracelet. 
Water resistance 20 bar. Automatic movement - 6R35
Price: $1,250

Thursday, November 12, 2020

The Seiko Flyback Machine - Back to 1977

 

(Seiko Superior)
On this day...

In 1977 there was only one name on every Japanese lips: Seiko Superior.

The Superior line was launched in 1974 with the 3883 calibre. In 1997 it was updated to calibre 4883. The very last Superior were fitted with calibre 9980 with accuracy rating of 5 seconds per year! The price of a solid gold model was equivalent to the cost of a small apartment and only 100 pieces were made.
In 1977, the more affordable stainless steel version was on offer - QNL010 retailing at 180,000 yen. This was still almost twice the price of a Rolex Datejust. The quartz era was unstoppable and the entire catalogue was filled with battery powered, super cool, super accurate, super modern Seiko's. 

In the sports range, the story was different.

The catalogue lists only two divers models: 600m monster YAQ028 know today as the 'Grandfather Tuna' (Y89,000) and just one Turtle: YCS018 (Y25,000).  
(Grandfather Tuna, 1977 Seiko Catalogue)
The story goes like this: in 1975, a saturation diver from Kure City in the Hiroshima prefecture of Japan sent Seiko a complaint regarding the reliability of it’s existing line of professional dive watches. The complaint exposed some notable flaws in it’s existing design, most notably their "susceptibility to the absorption of helium gas, a component of the air mixture that saturation divers were enveloped in".

In response, Seiko’s engineers led by Ikuo Tokunaga, set out to make the perfect dive watch for professional saturation divers. Tokunaga spent five years developing the world’s most advanced diving watch, built for the tiny target market of offshore commercial divers. Nicknamed the “Tuna” because of it’s cylindrical slab of lugless casing, the resulting product was a marvel of modern engineering. It’s monocoque titanium case, L-shaped gasket, and unique shrouded design were all firsts in the industry. Case size: 50.5 mm!

The result was a watch that was impervious to helium gas penetration, and one that could withstand the pressure of massive depths up to 600m. It instantly became a modern classic for Seiko, and has been in continuous production for the last 42 years.
Image source unknown (web)

Current Seiko ‘top of the range’ Tuna is SLA041J which is also the 55th anniversary model.
Price: $6950 limited to 1100 watches worldwide.
The second best Tuna is SLA042J with retails at $6,100. This one is even larger than the Grandfather Tuna being 52.4mm!

Both watches are fitted with an automatic movement Cal 8L35.
We have none in stock right now, however we should have one soon - your order is welcome.

The current ‘standard’ Tuna comes in two flavours: 

S23631J 49.4mm case, ceramic case, sapphire crystal and quartz 7C46. ($3750)
The second one is S23629J in a titanium case, 47.7mm ($2200)
Turtle:
Here is the photo of 1977 Turtle from Seiko catalogue:
The turtle was originally rated at 150m and was almost a quarter of the price of Tuna.

We have three models in stock:
SRPE07K1
45mm case size. Water resistance 200M. Special edition. 
$950
SRPD21K1 
45mm case size. Water resistance 200M.
$799
SRPF15K1
45mm case size. Water resistance 200M.
$795
All three in stock, available for immediate delivery.                         

The Jaeger-LeCoultre of Japanese horology

 


If there is one thing that really took me by surprise, it is the popularity of the Seiko SSA393J. On the day it was introduced in the newsletter we received more than 10 orders. There were two contributing factors to such popularity 

The super classy deep maroon ‘burst’ dial features a unique power reserve scale. - The power reserve is a handy feature, you can always tell how much ‘gas’ is left in the tank. In horology it is known as a ‘complication’ which comes in many flavours and none of them provides a simple straightforward solution.

Seiko's solution is to centre the power reserve wheel in the middle of the watch. Calibre 4R57A is made in Japan and the quality of the dial, hands, power reserve indicator and the power reserve hand are simply top quality. 

The second reason that makes this watch a hit is that it comes on a leather strap with a deployant buckle, giving the watch an unmistakable seriously elegant look. I have already called this presage the ‘Jaeger LeCoultre’ of Japanese horology and once you strap it on your wrist you will surely agree.

In all honesty I can't think of a better elegant daily wearer

What else can you get for $899?

Talking about being different, this presage range comes in many colours but our three favourite colours are deep maroon, deep grey and light baby blue.

While I’m probably non brave enough to wear baby blue myself, it is this piece that features an absolute stunning blue steel sweep hand that will leave you speechless. We have all three in stock and you’re welcome to make an appointment, however we are happy to ship it free of charge anywhere in Australia. 
SSA393J1 Seiko Presage Automatic POWER RESERVE AND CALENDAR - deep maroon
'Black Cat Martini Cocktail' 
5 BAR water resistant, Hardlex glass, exhibition case back.
Gloss dial, power reserve display and date. Calfskin strap. 40.5mm case.
Brand new. 3+2 years guarantee. FREE DELIVERY.
$899
For better photos, please see Seiko website: 
https://www.seikowatches.com/au-en/products/presage/SSA393J1
SSA343J1 Seiko Presage Automatic POWER RESERVE AND CALENDAR - light baby blue
$899
For better photos, please see Seiko website: 
https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/presage/ssa343j1
SSA345J1 Seiko Presage Automatic POWER RESERVE AND CALENDAR - deep grey
$899
For better photos, please see Seiko website: 
https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/presage/ssa345j1