What is Seiko Tuna?

 

In the 1960s, both Swiss and Japanese watchmakers 'worked out' that when watches were used professionally for helium saturation diving at great depths, they blew their glasses off during decompression. The problem was - Helium. Under high pressure, the inert Helium gas could enter the watch through regular gasket constructions, building up pressure inside the watch, equal to the pressure outside of the watch at that depth. Then, while decompressing the diver, the helium gas couldn't get out quickly enough, and thus the build-up pressure inside the watch caused the glass to blow off. In order to allow for quick helium release, the Swiss decided to construct a case with a helium valve.  The Japanese opted for another solution: to construct and build a divers watch so 'tight' that the helium couldn't enter the watch in the first place. Seiko's solution was found in a special type and construction of the gasket, combined with titanium monocoque casing. The first Tuna was built in 1975, fitted with an automatic movement, waterproof to 600m.  The rest is the history. Three years later, another release: the new quartz Tuna. It was the world's first professional Diver's 600M featuring a world-class corrosion-proof, shock resistant, airtight case.  In 1985 Seiko released a 1000m titanium Tuna with ceramic bezel protection fitted with a high grade quartz mechanism. This was not an ordinary battery operated watch, but one fitted with a purpose built mechanism: shock resistant, high torque, and super accurate. The diver's watch standard - robust, reliable, repairable - was set by Seiko. During the past couple of decades the market for divers watches exploded. New models offered everything from a dive computer to email and web browsing to banking. Yet only a handful of watches were still built to 1980s standard: a true 1000m water resistance.  In 2020, the new-old Tuna was welcomed by tens of thousands of serious watch aficionados looking for 'an old fashioned, properly built, no-nonsense' divers watch. A classic watch featuring high-tech materials like titanium, coated steel, and ceramic. A repairable watch which could be passed on to the next generation.

Inside the Tuna can

The original plan was to publish here a couple of images to show the 7C46 movement as well as the single-piece titanium case. However, since no suitable images could be found, I has no choice but to dig into it myself. The disassembly starts with removing the 4 side screws with a 1.5mm hex key. Once the screws are removed, the ceramic 'shroud' comes off, as well as the rotating bezel.  Underneath the bezel are two click springs which hold the bezel in position.

At this point in time, the watch is still fully waterproof, so removing the bezel protector for cleaning or for the replacement of the click/bezel itself does not affect water resistance. (Hint: you can clean the bezel yourself!)

Crystal removal requires a special tool. The crystal is held down by a screw-down bezel. Between the bezel and crystal there is a poly washer.

The crystal's rubber seal is of a special shape, designed to 'hug' the crystal when pressurised. The crystal itself is a sapphire, flat, faceted, 4mm thick.

The next step is to remove the minute chapter ring. Underneath the chapter ring is a rubber O-ring which provides shock-absorbance for the dial and movement.

Stem removed, movement extracted form the case.

7C46B is a high torque 7 jewel movement specifically made as a Seiko 'diver's calibre'. Operating range: between -10 ºC and +60 ºC. Accuracy: Less than 15 seconds per months when worn in temperature range between 5 ºC and 35 ºC. Or spot on when worn at the wrist! Again, these are impressive figures: 70 degrees operating range and 30 degrees guaranteed accuracy band. 7C46 is a fully repairable mechanism.

The monocoque, a single piece case.

The heart of the Tuna is the single piece case, machined entirely from a solid titanium block. No case back here! The quality of the case is simply superb, from finishes to tight tolerances. Indestructible, corrosion free.  If you are into machining and manufacturing, you will be impressed: this is not a stamped-out mass produced case, but a one-at-a-time CNC high tech machined component of 'medical grade' quality.

Reassembled, and water pressure tested. Unfortunately my water pressure tester goes only up to 10 bar. Tuna easily withstands the ten times greater pressure of 100 bar!

Attention to detail: divers safety is important! On the back of the case, a scale of 25 to 35 can be found. And the famous 'dot': the punch mark carefully placed, indented by hand. Your Tuna needs a new battery in the third quarter of 2025! Such a personal touch... Who else would mark a perfect, brand new titanium monocoque case - but Seiko. Simply saying: this is a tool watch, not a toy.

In conclusion Tuna is much more than a serious watch. It is a high tech professional divers watch and a significant historical reference to Seiko's engineering and watchmaking. A watch entirely made in Japan, by the only company in the world that makes every single watch component in house, under one roof. This piece needs no recommendation: if you are in or around the water, looking for a watch you'll never have to take off the wrist, a recognizable piece which will generate comments by those who know their stuff, then you can't pass the Tuna. Boutique price: $3,750.  As said before, my promise to you, my subscribers, is to offer you unbeatable deals on the most sought after and most iconic Seiko out there. I do believe that Tuna is worth every cent of the $3,750 retail price.  Model Reference: S23631J Case size: 49.4mm over the bezel protector, 42mm measured over the bezel.

Australian Exclusive - the two you have been waiting for!

Noosa by Night Is simply Seiko's way of saying thank you Australia for your loyal support. But make no mistake, this limited edition - 1000 pieces only within Australia and New Zealand - will have overseas watch collectors begging to get their hands on one. Bold, blue, masculine divers watch. If you have ever thought of starting a Seiko collection then this watch should be a corner stone. I am not going to say much more, but there are three things I am extremely excited about: 1. The hands and dial colour scheme. 2. The fact that the watch was made entirely in Japan. 3. It comes with both bracelet and silicon Seiko masterpiece strap.  Model reference: SPB347J. 45mm case size. Automatic movement. Water resistance 200 metres.  Boutique price: $1,500

Eucalyptus The most amazing turtle you will find in the entire Seiko collection. Limited edition Australian release of only 1000 pieces.  Model reference: SRPJ53K. 45mm case size. Automatic movement. Comes with both metal bracelet and silicon strap. Water resistance 200 metres. Boutique price: $895 And let me tell you something you won't find on watch forums or hear from so called horological promoters (still wet behind the ears). Back in the 70s when Seiko diver watches started featuring the relief motifs of a tsunami wave on the case back, owners were so amazed with this never before seen feature. Actually, only one Swiss brand had a similar relief on a divers watch - a mark of water resistance - and it was the Certina Turtle. Seiko owners were asked to take their watch off the wrist so that the wave could be admired.  A Seiko case back should never be taken for granted.

Under new management

The decision to 'force' Dad into retirement at the tender age of 82 was the right one. There is simply a point in life when work becomes a burden and when the 'under a new management' sign has to be put on the door. My brother was kind enough to assist me in getting the shop refitted, modernised, and loaded with well priced watches. We also hired two young ladies with retail experience, and on March 8, the family run business established in 1951 was once again providing 'horological services' to our loyal customers.  Was Dad happy about the retirement? Of course he wasn't - but that was hardly a surprise. We knew he would not surrender without resistance. The resistance was in the form of active shut down, long sleeps and general grumpiness. But all three of us - my mother, brother, and myself - decided to stay on the same page, to hold our position firmly, no matter what - Dad is no longer allowed to shop. Having an old, slightly demented man being in charge and issuing orders to a new and enthusiastic management would be a recipe for disaster. Occasionally, Dad would visit the new shop. He would whinge and complain about stock on display, and why his favourite Seiko clock was not prominently featured in it's all largeness so that passers-by could tell the time. More than once he told neighbours that 'he was forced out of his own business'. Luckily, like the rest of the family, our neighbours knew that his retirement was long overdue.  The new management was generating sales, but it is fair to say that the old shop had a new vibe. Which is fine; we have realistic expectations and we are prepared to continue investing in the future, while letting the youngsters 'take it to the next level'. But last week, out of the blue, both staff resigned. They handed over the shop keys with the explanation that 'as the times are getting uncertain, going back to school to further education makes more sense than ever'. Thank you Putin. On Monday morning, I got a message from my brother with a simple caption: "he has won". Freshly shaved, reinvigorated, like a Phoenix rising from its ashes, the old man was back behind the workbench. At 8pm, a second message arrived: "David and Dad sold 4 watches, replaced 7 batteries and a bunch of straps." I have no idea who David is. Probably a kid from church or a neighbour. And I have no doubt that in a few weeks from now, there will be a major problem of some kind followed by a phone call from either doctor or accountant, wanting to talk to me. But until that day, I'll let the old man enjoy his 'victory'. What the heck - if he wants to die behind the watchmaker's bench, so be it. We'll all die of something anyway. (to be continued...)

A strong watch brand is not built by a strong watchmaker, but by his strong supporters

Early Friday morning I got a quick email: "Hey Nick, your Mark 1 watch is listed on eBay. Only $2,100. Just letting you know". Shortly after, a phone call, from another Rebelde ambassador, also letting me know that 'someone out there is selling a Mark 1'. Then around midday, a visitor to the shop mentioned too that 'my watch is for sale' and that he is seriously tempted to buy it. The only problem was that he already had one. Clearly that 'cheap' Mark 1 was generating quite a bit of interest. And somehow, there was an expectation and sense of urgency within 'our community' that something had to be done - by me. My watches rarely appear on the second hand market. For the obvious reason: once I drop dead, those watches will become more desirable and most likely, shoot up in value. But at the end of the day, with 200 Mark 1 out there, it is only natural that eventually one will appear on the pre-owned market before that happy day. Watches are bought and sold; circumstances change. Does Mr Patek get upset every time Patek is sold on eBay? Does Mr Lange and all his sons or Monsieur Breguet get upset when watches bearing their names appear auctioned away with no reserve? They couldn't care less. But to sit idle was not an option, so on Sunday night I went on eBay and for the first time in my life, in the search box, I entered my own name. There it was: an orphan Mark 1, in all its glory. The seller did a good job describing it's uniqueness, and gave the watch deserving credit on both appearance and performance. But the seller was not the original owner, the listing was from a pawn shop. It was obvious that the original Mark 1 owner, our ambassador, has fallen on tough times and had to pawn the watch. This is why the watch ended up on eBay. The realisation that my watch was on a display in a pawn shop, offered for sale together with cordless drills, broken Nintendo consoles, used gym equipment and piles of unwanted junk was simply unbearable. In a nano-second, I clicked the 'buy it now' button.  Now, you may think I have rescued the watch from kindness of my heart, and that story of redemption and sacrifice leads to some epic grand finale where the watch is going to be returned and reunited with it's original owner. If you do, you are mistaken. My plan is simple: I want to find a new home for Mark 1, and a new guardian who will appreciate it, wear it proudly, and take good care of it in years to come. I want to give it as a gift to someone worthy of receiving such a valuable present. As you know, I honestly believe that Seiko Astron is one of the four watches you simply must have in your collection. Today, I have twelve Astrons for sale. If you buy an Astron today, you will go into the draw to win the rescued Mark 1. Show me your patronage and support, and I'll show you my respect. You support me and my business, I'll make you the proud owner of a watch you deserve.

Holding two opposing ideas

 

Yesterday, in the midst of the madness created by the release of Seiko Resin, as the phone was literally melting down and while emails were pouring in, a remark by a subscriber caught me by surprise: "Seriously, how low can you really go? $299? Would there be a $99 Seiko next week?" The broader context of this insult hinges on two points: am I really a watchmaker of the reputation I claim to be, and is this Seiko anything more than cheap junk? One thing that separates humans and monkeys is the power of imagination. Imagination is the ability to form mental images; the ability of the mind to build mental scenes, objects or events that do not exist, are not present, or have not happened in the past - or those which will not happen in future. Imagination based on facts is reality, and non factual imagination is just a speculative fiction. It is up to each one of us to strike the balance between the two. In other words: if I find pleasure in selling affordable watches, then that is really just my business and no one else's. Cheap and expensive are just constructs of our imagination. As someone said, "The test of a first-rate intelligence is the ability to hold two opposing ideas in mind at the same time and still retain the ability to function." So yes, intelligent people can find enjoyment in both cheap and expensive, affordable and exclusive, mass-produced and masterpieces. Because they are intelligent enough to tell the difference between the two.

Yesterday, while we were selling the cool and affordable Seiko, we also bought a wonderfully exciting 1880 single pusher chronograph pocket watch by Nicole Nielsen which is now undergoing a complete restoration. "The high regard in which some of the best watchmakers in London were held is due, in large part, to the work of 'Nicole Nielsen' (Charles Nicole & Emil Nielsen). They could make watches with any escapement and had the ability to supply calendar, chronograph and repeating watches, as well as special complications including tourbillons of the highest quality. In short, Nicole Nielsen's watches are superb." Minutes later, completely unexpectedly, we acquired a collection of 32 Omega railway pocket watches issued to NSW rail - a historically important find. As well as an extremely fine 1950 Omega bumper in completely original condition. Plus Another six vintage Omegas. And on top of that, 18 modern watches, to be listed over the next couple of days.

We can go low, we can go high, and either is fun. Almost forgot: there is a parcel from Seiko on it's way too.

Crown vs. All Watchmakers

This week, a communique addressed as "LETTER TO ALL WATCHMAKERS" and dated July 1994 has been brought to my attention. It is, what we believe, the first written document which directly imposed and introduced a harsh restriction on the supply of spare parts from Rolex. If for no other reason, this is an important document because it reveals a crucial detail: Prior to July 1994, there was no restriction on the supply of spare parts to Australian watchmakers. So what was the reason behind the 'declaration of war'? "It has come to the attention of the Rolex Group of companies that some persons seek to acquire Rolex spare parts and accessories for the purpose of refurbishing second hand Rolex watches and passing them off as new or for passing off counterfeit Rolex watches as genuine Rolex watches. You will appreciate that it is essential that this practice be stamped out as it misleads the public and detracts from the reputation established by Montres Rolex S A in its timepieces."

Australian watchmakers, collectively, have been accused of two sins: repairing Rolex watches to such high standard that they could be passed on as new, and on-selling fake Rolex watches as genuine. This accusation was a downright insult. As Rolex states, in the watchmaking business, reputation is everything. To accuse watchmakers of being dishonest and not considered to be respectable in character or appearance, was simply a provocation. I am not saying that there aren't bad apples in our trade, but as someone who has been in the game for my entire life, I have not come across a watchmaker who is a crook, counterfeiter and forger. If indeed, such a dodgy watchmaker was caught red handed trying to defraud Rolex, then I would be the first to throw a stone. Over the years, Rolex has successfully won countless cases, bringing fraudsters and copyright infringers to justice. Including their fellow Swiss brands (A Marine-r's Odyssey: Rolex vs. Franck Muller). There is an army of lawyers in Geneva who are paid handsomely to protect Rolex's reputation, and rightly so. But to unleash that mighty force on small Australian Independent Watchmakers, the very backbone of the service industry, is simply unthinkable. For obvious reasons, I am not going to fully re-publish Rolex's letter here. The rest of the content deals with specifics in relation to placing an order for spare parts, return of broken parts, right to retain parts (by Rolex) etc. As well as request to 'agree and comply'.    Unfortunately, as we now know in the years succeeding this letter, Rolex's narrative has changed. From being accused of providing a service too good to be true, Australian watchmakers were gradually pushed into the 'too old, too dumb, and unwilling to invest' basket, being accused of providing inferior service to customers. In 2012, Rolex Australia closed the last two spare parts accounts to Sydney independent watchmakers. I have captured that moment in time in a short video purely as a historical reference, and if you are a relatively new subscriber to this newsletter, then you should watch it here: https://youtu.be/GaJvmQtoVjs

Curiously, in 2022, the narrative is changing again. After closing the official service centre in Sydney, faced with an unprecedented load of repairs, Rolex is creating a new alliance, partnering with authorised dealers. New people, willing to invest, expand, and ride on Rolex's wings to infinity and beyond. What that means to you, a watch enthusiast, is yet to be seen.   But when I think of it: for a small watchmaker of independent spirit, being pushed out and forcefully divorced from Rolex is actually a good outcome. Fifty years ago, Rolex was making ordinary watches easily repairable by almost anyone. However since then, things have changed. Australian watchmakers are simply too small and insignificant to be perceived as a partner of relevance. Skilled behind the bench for sure, but legally illiterate and financially miniscule. And the truth is, the new generation of 'watch collectors' no longer sees Rolex as a high precision mechanical device; but purely as an investment vehicle, an extension of a fragile ego, and as a social media status symbol. The last thing they want is to deal with us.   As they say: we all got the reputation and customers we deserve. The King is dead; long live the Crown.

Hate your job but need the money?

Many of our subscribers are fellow small business operators. Today's message is for them. As I type this, Australian businesses are going through unprecedentedly hard times. While demand for products is strong, and profit margins are healthy, the work force is decimated. Workers are quitting, changing jobs or simply not showing up for work. Advertising for a replacement is fruitless, leading to frustration and an inability for businesses to operate efficiently and profitably. It is not just tough; we are on the verge of a meltdown of the very foundations of capitalism. What has caused the problem? There are four reasons which have caused this perfect storm: the government's overreaction to Covid and severe 'stay at home' orders, hyperinflation caused by the governments' decision to print money, extremely low interest rates, and the governments decision to close borders, getting rid of foreign workers and limiting immigration. Which means that an already spoiled and precious Australian workforce now has an upper hand over businesses. Those who always wanted to quit have already quit. And who could blame them? The generous Covid support coupled with stay at home orders proved to actually be a good thing: while in lockdown and on support, they realized that working from home left them with plenty of free time, no direct supervision and no need to commute to work. For them, work was always a burden, and to their surprise, thanks to Government measures , that burden was lifted, literally overnight. But for small businesses, it was not those who left that are a problem. It's those who stayed because they couldn't leave. Workers who have bills to pay, children at school, overburdened with mortgages. Disgruntled, unhappy and unproductive. They call themselves "quiet quitters". If you are not familiar with the term, look it up. "Quiet Quitting" is actually a global phenomenon. Millions of QQ'ers are mushrooming, and the chances are, there are one or two sitting right next to you, right now. How to recognize a QQ? The best way to introduce them is to allow them to introduce themselves: "We are forced to work. We hate capitalist corporate culture, over commitment, climbing up the ladder. We are happy to give 100% but not 1000%." Here are the obvious characteristics of a typical quiet quitter: 1. Physically present at work, but absentminded 2. Happy to do only the absolute minimum to keep their pay check 3. Arrive to work at 8:59 and leave at 5:00 4. Averse to any after hours training 5. Disinterested in new projects 6. Constantly grumpy, easily irritated 7. Disinterested in promotions, or corporate advancement of any kind 8. Impossible to motivate 9. QQ are proud of being quiet quitters, so they actively spread and preach QQ values Quiet quitters are a cancer to your small business.  What can you do about it? There is absolutely nothing that a small business owner can do to calm the storm. The storm was created by the government, not by small businesses. Brace! Instinctively, business owners react to the pain of losing staff by panic advertising for new staff, and offering higher wages. Which is simply pouring fuel on fire. You will be literally hiring someone else's quitter (bad) or someone else's' quiet quitter (really bad). QQ is not a victimless crime The first victim are your customers. If you see any signs of customer dissatisfaction, then you can be sure that your business is already infected. The second victim is the business itself, deprived of the blood which comes from worker enthusiasm and creativity. The third victims are hard working and loyal co-workers who now have to share even more of the burden in order to keep the business afloat. Plan of action Identify quiet quitters, review their performance and if they are not fulfilling their contractual obligations then take the appropriate steps. Going forward It took decades of hard work to build a successful business. Don't let a bunch of quitters tear it down. Hold the helm firmly, weather the storm. 1. Immediately cancel your overseas holiday 2. Be prepared to work even longer hours 3. Reward workers who are loyal and hardworking 4. Cancel all non-profitable projects, focus your energy on high profit activities 5. Be prepared to inject more working capital into the business 6. Remember: In times of crisis, a handful of loyal and experienced workers are worth more than an army of quitters 7. No storm lasts forever. If you survive, you'll come out stronger.  When will the storm be over? When interest rates hit 10% and all the awakened digital nomads, freelancers, smashed avocados, losers and quitters will for the first time in their life find out what capitalism really is. See you in Hobart. Gallup's global workplace report for 2022 showed that only 9% of workers in the UK were engaged or enthusiastic about their work. Also 60% of people are emotionally detached and 19% are miserable.

What is an Omega "Moonwatch" look-alike and why should you stay away from it?

 

Introduced in 1988, the Speedmaster Reduced Ref 3510.50 was offered as the smaller and cheaper version of the Moonwatch. The case size was 39mm and unlike the 'difficult to manually wind Speedy' the reduced was an automatic watch. The dial layout was not a carbon copy of the original, but for most buyers, it was close enough. What really bode well for it: it was a smaller, more compact watch suitable for a smaller wrist. Omega released and sold hundreds of thousands of them. Here are my 5 reasons why you should NOT invest in one: 1. It is overpriced We use to sell them for $2,000. Then price went to $2,200 and stayed there for a number of years. Then it jumped to $3,000. Nowadays you could see them on Chrono 24 advertised for close to $5,000! This is just ridiculous. For $5,000 you can get a much better watch. Much, much better! 2. It is not waterproof Quite frankly, it was barely waterproof even back in 1988. Thirty or so years later, wearing a reduced in the shower -or even washing your hands - is asking for trouble. A vintage reduced is not suitable for any water related activities. Especially a watch with no recent service history. 3. It is complex to repair The Speedmaster reduced is powered by a modular calibre Omega 1140 (later upgraded to 1141 and 1143). Basically, it is an ETA 'sandwich' with the time module and chrono module joined together. A watchmakers nightmare! A complete overhaul on a reduced is more time consuming, more expensive and more complex than on any manual wind moonwatch. While parts are still plentiful, watchmakers capable of servicing modular calibres are hard to find. Your local watchmaker (even a good one!) would most likely stuff it up - or, if he is honest and smart - avoid the job in the first place. We can service it in our workshop - but this is never fun and always expensive. 4. The casing components are flimsy Especially the pushers, which now tend to fall off, leak or simply stop functioning altogether. Unlike the internal parts, external parts are hard to source. A damaged pusher or scratched bezel will set you back big time. 5. It is a 'fake watch' By fake I mean fake looking watch. If you really want a Moonwatch then go for an original manual wind 42mm. If you can't handle that size, go for a smaller watch but of different design. In most cases,   the reduced is sold to total novice watch enthusiasts who (in the past) were attracted to the look of a moon watch, but did not want to pay the price. With the reduced, there is no honeymoon; the moment you put it next to the 'real deal' the marriage is over. Is there an alternative to a Speedmaster 3510.50 reduced? If you really want the same look in a smaller case, and automatic winding is a must then at least, go for a 3593.50, the upgraded version released in 2006. While this is still an ETA 2892 with a sandwich chronograph module by Dubois-Depraz, the reduced 2.0 is more waterproof and comes with a sapphire crystal. Still expensive to repair and crazy overpriced. A much better alternative would be any other Omega chronograph Speedmaster fitted with a Valjoux 7750 mechanism. The 7750 is not regarded as a 'horological beauty' - quite the opposite - but at least, it is easy to repair and fairly issue-free. Most importantly, you won't be hit by the "moonwatch tax". There are plenty of options for dial colour, and water resistance is fairly decent If you look after it, it will serve you well for years to come. And if you do have a speedy reduced, and are thinking of selling it: get rid of it now, thank me later. (No I don't want it!)