And the gold medal goes to: The Crown

The other week I attended a typical ethnic wedding. And by 'ethnic' I mean a wedding with too much food, too many overdone bridesmaids and music so loud that we went deaf after the first song. The kind of wedding non-ethnic people can only dream of. And it was fantastic. Sat next to me was a man my age or there about, wearing a Rolex GMT in gold and steel. A flashy brand new looking piece which perfectly complimented the fine suit, white shirt and gold tie.  "I like your watch" - I said. "Yes, thank you, I like it too. I don't wear it often - actually, special occasions only." And that was it. Neither of us mentioned the word 'Rolex' or 'money' or 'impossible to get'. That would be unnecessary, and rude, even at a wedding reception where excess and opulence was a key ingredient of the night. Yes, some people still buy watches because they like them. Not because of the brand name or investment potential. But for many collectors, it is the story behind the watch that matters the most. Here is the story of a very unique timepiece worth sharing.  On May 29th, 1959, it was announced that Tokyo would host the 1964 Olympics. Shortly after, Shoji Hattori (Seiko President from 1946 to 1974), decided that Seiko should handle the official timekeeping at these Olympic Games. After extensive research and development, Seiko was notified in May 1963 that they were chosen to be the official timekeepers for the Olympics, which would take place only 17 months later. "We are not assigning official timekeeping to a Japanese manufacturer because the Olympics will be held in Tokyo, but because these are actual functional stopwatches, backed up with solid theory" was the statement given by the technical committee after declaring Seiko as the official timekeepers. The 1964 Crown Chronograph was developed with an Olympic theme in response to this milestone, becoming the first Japanese wristwatch to include a stopwatch function.

The latest Seiko Chrono SRQ037J was inspired by the original 1964 Seiko Crown Chronograph. It features beveled hour markers, sharp hour and minute hands with coloured Lumibrite, and chronograph pushers and markers on the outer dial ring. The seconds counter hand curves gently downwards so that the tip of the hand is as close as possible to the dial markers, and extends to the tachymeter markings at the very edge of the dial to ensure that elapsed time can be read as quickly and accurately as possible.

Make no mistake: this is a high-end watch made for a watch collector who is ready to venture out and beyond the usual Swiss offering. Completely made in Japan, it is as close to perfection as you would expect it to be. Yet the most remarkable feature is its look: a fusion of vintage and modern; a watch that 'reminds you of a watch from a certain era' yet you would be unable to pinpoint it to a year, or even a decade; a watch that 'reminds you of another chronograph' - yet you won't be sure of which one. And this is the beauty of it - it is a watch that stands for itself despite being inspired by the most handsome chronographs of the 1960s. The retail price of $4,695 places the watch well below the cheapest Omega chronograph and on par with run of the mill Swiss mechanical chronos. Yet I would rather have a Seiko with a story than a Swiss watch that is merely a product of clever advertising. The 1964 Tokyo Olympics was a global event of international importance, and the honour of being an official timekeeper was of huge importance to SEIKO. Proof that SEIKO has arrived to the global scene. A gold medal in my books. 42.5mm case size. Automatic movement - calibre 8R46. Water resistance 100 metres.

I keep one under my pillow

 

I literally do.   Surely, there are thousands of watches that would do the trick, but nothing beats Astron. Especially if you are a 'light sleeper'. You set your mental clock to 4:30, but you keep checking the time every 10 minutes from 3am onwards. The more important the reason to get up, the lighter the sleep. That's me. And probably every other person over the age of fifty five.   Having an Astron under the pillow is not just about time. Astron serves as a 'dummy for grown ups'. You slide your hand underneath your pillow, and you are comforted by the reassuring warmth of titanium, knowing that things will work as planned.   I rarely take my Astron out of the house and I do get upset when it gets moved or misplaced. My particular watch has no luminous markers at 3 and 6 o'clock which means I can easily tell the time at a glance, effortlessly. It is an older model with pencil thin markers but still, it glows 'radioactive green' like a Christmas tree.   You've heard it before: "Astron is the most accurate analogue watch in the world". Sure it is. But Astron is much more than that: it is definitive proof that humans have reached an important moment in technical development. We can harness the power of the sun, satellite communication and mechanical perfection to create a masterpiece like no other, available at a price anyone can afford. To combine all that in one is a remarkable achievement. An extraordinary watch by an extraordinary watchmaker, crafted for a sophisticated buyer.   Just before sunrise, this morning, I went to Dobroyd Head to 'play radios'. A rather strange game: a packet of digital signals is transmitted from earth towards a satellite, and the digipeater on the satellite bounces the signal back to earth. This tiny shoebox flies 6,000 km above the earth at a speed of 5km per second, providing a coverage radius of 12,000 kilometres. The trick is to calculate the azimuth and elevation while taking care of Doppler frequency shifts in both transmission and receiving. During this quick pass, I've made contacts with Japan, Taiwan, Australia and New Zealand. A sophisticated game, played by sophisticated players. And yes, this morning, as you would expect, I was wearing my Astron.

TEAL SSH127J 43.1mm case size. Black titanium case and bracelet. Solar GPS - dual time. Water resistance 100 metres.  Boutique price: $3,600

BLUE SSH109J 42.7mm case size. Titanium case and bracelet. Solar GPS - dual time. Water resistance 100 metres.  Boutique price: $3,750

SILVER SSH107J 42.7mm case size. Titanium case and bracelet. Solar GPS - dual time. Water resistance 100 metres.  Boutique price: $3,750

PURPLE SUPERNOVA SSH123J 43.1mm case size. Black titanium case and bracelet. Solar GPS - dual time. Water resistance 100 metres.  Limited edition 1,500 pieces worldwide. Boutique price: $3,600

PEARL SSH117J 43.1mm case size. Titanium case and bracelet. Solar GPS - dual time. Water resistance 100 metres.  Boutique price: $3,300

BLACK SSH067J 42.8mm case size. Titanium case and bracelet. Solar GPS - dual time. Water resistance 100 metres.  Boutique price: $3,750

BLACK/STEEL SSH021J 41.4mm case size. Stainless steel case and bracelet. Solar GPS - dual time. Water resistance 100 metres.  Boutique price: $2,950

Back to business

https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/rolex-milgauss-auction-1234843638/

Last weekend, a Rolex Milgauss sold at Phillips Auction Geneva for $A3,750.000. Almost four million dollars! Yes it was a complete set in very fine condition, showing very little wear. But my goodness, that is absolutely crazy money for a vintage Rolex. As reported: "A bidding war ensued between an American collector and a buyer who was, reportedly, shopping on behalf of Rolex. Seemingly determined to add the watch to their private collection, it was the unidentified buyer who secured the lot for more than double the estimate. While it's an astonishing amount of money, it is but a crumb to Rolex (if they were indeed the buyer) who Morgan Stanley estimated made CHF 9.3 billion in sales in 2022." It is no secret that record auction prices are often the result of brands biding on their own watches. The benefit is clear: massive advertising exercise, literally free publicity, and the opportunity to take the brand's image and prestige to the next level.  About ten years ago, I was offered an almost identical Milgauss, a complete set, for $40,000. I said no, thanks. It was later sold to an overseas dealer for $70K. I guess I should have said yes. Damn! Should you invest in a vintage Rolex? As they say, only bet what you can afford to lose. But buying a vintage watch - of any brand - could be a smart decision: assuming you really like the look, stylistically the watch fits your wrist perfectly, and the watch is your birth year. If it ticks those three boxes, you can't go wrong. On today's offer: 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref 5512 What makes this piece special is that it was made in 1959, the year when reference 5512 was actually released. This was the first no-date submariner with crown guards, first issued with gloss dial and a few years later with matte.  To say that a 1959 5512 is actually quite rare would be an understatement. Don't take my word for it - do your own research and feel free to make me an offer. This watch comes from my private collection, with original box and papers (manufactured in 1959 sold new in 1961) so as you would imagine, I am not a desperate seller. On the contrary - quite happy to take it back to my deposit box and remain it's guardian for years to come.

Happy Rebelde Day!

 

Today is the most important day on our calendar.   We were born on May 17, 2012. On that day, two seemingly unrelated events coincided, creating the cornerstone of what is known as the 'Rebelde movement'. The first event was the final letter from a major Swiss watch brand denying access to spare parts for Australian watchmakers, which simply meant the end of our existence as independent repairers. The second event, which occurred later that day, was the realisation that in order to stay in business and continue our battle for mere survival, we had to start our own watch brand.   The first Rebelde watch was designed in 2013 which marks this year as our 10th year as a brand. We've struggled, but with your help and support, we've prevailed.   As I type this, in front of me is the latest NH watch - just completed - ready to be submitted to the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize competition: "For the makers of the future". As I have always said: our future is yet to come. Yet looking at the watch on my desk, our future is already here. For the very first time in these past ten years, I am entirely pleased with what our small team has achieved. I am proud of them, and I am proud of the watch. Actually, I am so proud of it that if I drop dead today, it would be more than enough to be remembered by this very timepiece alone. A watch you can take to any brand, any boutique, put it on the table and say: this was manufactured in Australia.   We’ve come a long way: from simple hand sketches, placing orders with overseas watch parts manufacturers, assembling hundreds of watches in our small city workshop, training young apprentices, setting our own manufacturing facilities, importing high precision machinery, learning how to make. All that, in just ten short years.   We've stood to what we've promised: to this day, there is no such thing as a broken watch that bears the NH name. Our watches are not just keeping time, but withstanding the brute forces of nature which work against order, withstanding time itself. Robust, reliable and repairable – forever. Rebelde ambassadors love their watches, they hold on to them tightly, respectfully, enjoying the fact that they too, are special, one of a kind watch enthusiasts. What a compliment that is!   I wish I could show you the watch, but unfortunately, this would not be possible until our entry to the competition is officially accepted. I can however tell you that the watch is a truly unique piece, one of a kind. It features a Timascus guilloche dial in the most vibrant colour you've ever seen. This is the first time in the history of horology that a special tri-composite titanium 'alloy' has been guilloched. The watch hands are machined from pure titanium, feather-finished. Mainplate and bridges are also made of Timascus, and winding gears are hobbed in house. What we are extremely proud of, the entire titanium case was manufactured and hand finished – by us. In other words, more than 80% of the entire watch is by our own design, manufactured by us, in Australia.   Again, I wish you could see it, here, right now. However, as of next week, you will be able to see it in person, in our city office. If you are an admirer of fine horology, you will be blown away.   Happy Rebelde day! Nick Hacko

PS: The official name of the new watch is FiftyFive. (LV is 55 in Roman numerals). Here is a link to the jury members who will be judging our watch: https://www.louisvuittonwatchprize.com/committee/ The committee includes master watchmakers, journalists, artisans, artists, collectors, and watch enthusiasts from all backgrounds and nationalities. The first batch of ten NH FiftyFive watches is already in production with an expected release date of December 2023.

A perfect daily-wearer SEIKO - for a small wrist

 

I know we are days - if not hours - away from the point in time when some person out there would find 'small wrist' offensive enough to start a global protest. But that won't be a man. Let me be absolutely clear: having smaller wrists doesn't mean that you're a weak man or that you're not man enough. It just means that you will find an XL watch slightly uncomfortable. That's all.  Daniel Craig has a small wrist - but no one in his right mind would think of him as weak or not manly. On the contrary! And no women would reject an invitation to a romantic dinner based on a man's wrist size. "You know who invited me out the other day? Daniel Craig. Yes, that man with a small wrist. Of course I declined!" Well here is a bit of news for you, princess: fist size or hand size in fighting doesn't make any difference at all, but rather the force behind the blow. Small, medium or large hands can deal out a powerful blow if the correct technique is used to put as much force as possible behind the punch. In Craig's case we are talking $160 million in cash.  Men are simple animals: don't touch their ego, don't touch their food, and don't touch their toys. Wrist size does not matter.  Which brings us to today’s offer: a SUPER FRESH release of Seiko 5 Automatic in a 38mm case. First time ever - a SEIKO 5 for a small wrist! Four colours to choose from. On a bracelet, of course. Price: only $495 Right now, we still have all colours in stock, but you have to be quick.

SRPK33 Teal & SRPK35 Orange

SRPK29 Black & SRPK31 Pearl

Money and desire alone are not enough

 

The Mark II booklet is here. Yes, the old fashioned booklet printed on actual paper. "But who in this day and age prints booklets? Wouldn't a downloadable pdf document be far more appropriate, user and environment friendly, and definitely cheaper?" - you rightly ask. Maybe, and maybe not. The Mark II booklet is not about money or convenience. And certainly not about friendliness. Our booklet is not a cuddly adoring puppy, playfully looking in your eyes, waiting for treat. Our Mark II booklet is Cerberus, guarding the gates of hell. Let me get straight into it. I am a watchmaker who makes a sophisticated watch. I am the leader of a young team of machinists and watchmakers, equally sophisticated and skilled who use cutting edge and traditional machinery to manufacture sophisticated pieces of mechanical engineering, decorated to perfection. And my role is to prevent our watch falling into the hands of an unsophisticated buyer. A titanium guilloche dial and hands take 40 hours to make. A Timascus dial takes more than sixty. A buyer who doesn't have six minutes to learn about our MK2 dial is not my buyer. He may have the money and desire to become the owner of a MK2 but he will never be our ambassador. Impatient, uneducated and unsophisticated, he will get bored and flip our watch in no time. Unsophisticated buyers are a cancer to our brand and our business. "Oh Nick, you are such a jerk! You should be grateful to anyone who is willing to put his hard earned cash into your watch!" Yes, I am grateful - but for the same reason the father of a lovely, well-mannered highly educated young lady would do his utmost best to guide her and protect her from a rude, uneducated, unappreciative violent man, I too am doing my best to ensure the watch that bears my name is married to a caring, sophisticated watch ambassador. If you are interested in MK2 Curl Curl, then I invite you to request a Cerberus booklet. It was prepared for your enjoyment and appreciation of fine horology and we'll be happy to mail it to you at our cost. Thank you for your support. Nicholas Hacko, Watchmaker

To order your free MK2 booklet, email to mail@clockmaker.com.au

Amazingly affordable horology

 

As I am holding (handling, photographing, pulling apart!) this lovely ALBA Pepsi, I am simply amazed by how cheap this watch really is. This has to be the best value for money from the ‘Seiko stable’. Obviously, the reason for such ‘affordability’ is because of Seiko’s manufacturing power: Seiko is a multibillion dollar business that covers every segment of the watch market – from the humble entry level ALBA, to mid stream Seiko, to the super grand Grand Seiko models. If there is one thing you should take from today’s newsletter it is this: you simply cannot go wrong with Seiko. You will be getting exactly what you’ve paid for; Seiko will exceed your expectations, and your watch will serve you for many years to come. No hype. No bull. Just as it is.

So why should you invest in ALBA Pepsi? The top reason: your $1,000 SEIKO is not really a watch to be worn around the house, on an overseas holiday, while ‘outdooring’ or fixing your lawnmower. For that, you need a second watch: a robust ‘shitter’. If you are new to this newsletter: a ‘shitter’ is an endearing compliment. It means that a watch is sweet, genuine, authentic, and non-pretentious. It also means that the watch has ‘won you’ in a special way, for simply being what it is. In the unfortunate case that watch is lost, damaged beyond repair or stolen, you can always say: “Well who cares, it was just a shitter.” Let’s just get straight into it. Price: $149

I mean – wow. Stainless steel case and bracelet. Plus, I am throwing in a genuine leather strap from our Rebelde line. 44mm case size.  Strap replacement Simple. All you need to remove the spring bars, is a 1mm screwdriver and bit of a patience. Or – simply bring it to us and we’ll do it for you, while you wait, in less than 60 seconds. The spacing between the lugs is 22mm so there are literally millions of straps that would fit the ALBA Pepsi. The choices are endless.

Battery replacement Super easy. Yes, the watch is fitted with a screw lock case back, but literally any tool with ‘prongs’ spaced 35mm will get the back off. Make one yourself! Or get yourself a rubber case back removal ball. Once the back is off, remove the plastic case spacer and you’re in.

Too lazy to make a case back opener? How about this one, for just $2? A perfect tool for a shitter, but hey, if your nearest watchmaker is 200km away, then why not?

The battery required is an SR621 – the most common watch battery in the world, which costs $2 or less. Or $7.90 for a packet of ten.  Yes, you can do it yourself – say goodbye to Mister Minit or Mister Watchmaker.

The worst case scenario: your ALBA shitter is DEAD! "OMG. It's dead, beyond repair and ready to be thrown away! It's an electronics problem, and we can't fix dead electronics!" - says your favourite watchmaker. What a load of rubbish. Don't listen to shonk. There is no such a thing as a 'dead' ALBA. For just $9.95 USD (or less than $20 Australian) you can get yourself a brand new mechanism. Simply re-use the existing stem, dial and hands - and your ALBA is as good as new. Movement calibre: VJ42B.  Seriously, show me another watch brand out there that makes such fantastic looking watches in this price range! And YES, just in case you prefer a less sporty version: there is an ALBA Irish black and green as well.  Same price, same deal: bracelet + rebelde leather strap for just $149. Please be quick, only a handful of watches in stock, never to be repeated offer.