Rolex Explorer Restoration, Part 2.

 

A couple of weeks ago, we left you with images of a completely rusted-out Rolex Explorer in pieces. At first glance, it looked like a hopeless case but as any restorer knows, the real story is in the details. The process begins with carefully removing every component from the main plate. Rust, stubborn and unforgiving, is painstakingly scraped away by hand with a soft wooden stick. Each crevice is coaxed clean, then the plate is soaked in oil, scrubbed again by hand, and finally given a gentle ultrasonic bath- a sort of spa day for this weary timepiece. Next comes the delicate task of removing all broken and corroded steel screws. The main plate itself is brass, plated with rhodium to give it that signature “white” sheen, and here lies the trick: steel parts are best dissolved rather than forced out. A soak in vinegar for two to three days works like magic, leaving the brass unharmed while the rusted steel vanishes. Before this acidic bath, of course, every jewel and steel pin is carefully removed, tucked away to return later. The result? A main plate reborn, etched clean, jewels reinstalled, and ready for the next chapter. And now begins the real adventure: sourcing original vintage Rolex parts. Some will arrive as pristine new-old-stock treasures, others salvaged from donor watches -each piece a tiny victory. With 50 to 60 parts required, patience is key. Delays are inevitable, and the occasional wrong part is almost a rite of passage. But that’s all part of the journey. Restoration is never a sprint, it’s a conversation with time itself. Yet all this epic restoration could be a piece of cake if Rolex would simply release spare parts to independent watchmakers. There are millions of those spares sitting neatly stacked in Swiss bunkers. And if not, all those parts could easily be re-made, distributed, and supplied. But Rolex won’t budge. The hypocrisy and corporate greed of Swiss mega-brands is just pathetic. Not just in the corporate sense, but in their indecency, blaming watchmakers for a “lack of skills.” Ask Rolex, “Why won’t you supply spares to watchmakers?” and the answer is always the same: Only Rolex Service Centre can service a Rolex watch to Rolex standards. But that’s a lie. As I type this, our team of machinists is making superbly complex, ultra-tight-tolerance parts for the space and medical industries - fields with standards far stricter than anything in horology. Day after day, batch after batch, we produce those parts and supply them with full metrological reports as proof they meet every engineering and performance specification. Replacing a worn-out part in a watch isn’t rocket science; it’s just a job for a technician. I asked AI to generate a picture of an old watchmaker screaming “Release the parts!” And the image it produced - an old man working in a dim, primitive workshop, fixing outdated watches — is exactly the picture Rolex wants you to have in your mind. “Don’t take your watch to those old, small, untrained, unsightly, non-corporate watchmakers,” they say. “They’ll cause more damage, they’ll fit fake parts, they don’t know what they’re doing.” How about this, Rolex: just release the parts. We’ll take care of our customers to the standards they expect and demand, at a price they’re happy to pay, with turnaround times in weeks, not months. Release the parts - and shut up. (To be continued.)

Back to business

https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/rolex-milgauss-auction-1234843638/

Last weekend, a Rolex Milgauss sold at Phillips Auction Geneva for $A3,750.000. Almost four million dollars! Yes it was a complete set in very fine condition, showing very little wear. But my goodness, that is absolutely crazy money for a vintage Rolex. As reported: "A bidding war ensued between an American collector and a buyer who was, reportedly, shopping on behalf of Rolex. Seemingly determined to add the watch to their private collection, it was the unidentified buyer who secured the lot for more than double the estimate. While it's an astonishing amount of money, it is but a crumb to Rolex (if they were indeed the buyer) who Morgan Stanley estimated made CHF 9.3 billion in sales in 2022." It is no secret that record auction prices are often the result of brands biding on their own watches. The benefit is clear: massive advertising exercise, literally free publicity, and the opportunity to take the brand's image and prestige to the next level.  About ten years ago, I was offered an almost identical Milgauss, a complete set, for $40,000. I said no, thanks. It was later sold to an overseas dealer for $70K. I guess I should have said yes. Damn! Should you invest in a vintage Rolex? As they say, only bet what you can afford to lose. But buying a vintage watch - of any brand - could be a smart decision: assuming you really like the look, stylistically the watch fits your wrist perfectly, and the watch is your birth year. If it ticks those three boxes, you can't go wrong. On today's offer: 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref 5512 What makes this piece special is that it was made in 1959, the year when reference 5512 was actually released. This was the first no-date submariner with crown guards, first issued with gloss dial and a few years later with matte.  To say that a 1959 5512 is actually quite rare would be an understatement. Don't take my word for it - do your own research and feel free to make me an offer. This watch comes from my private collection, with original box and papers (manufactured in 1959 sold new in 1961) so as you would imagine, I am not a desperate seller. On the contrary - quite happy to take it back to my deposit box and remain it's guardian for years to come.

Exactly ten years ago....

Environmental activist Peter Gray throws his shoes at former Prime Minister John Howard on the ABC's Q&A programme, in protest to the Howard Government's involvement in the Iraq War. Jayant Patel is found guilty on three counts of manslaughter and one count of grievous bodily harm for his actions as Director of Surgery at Bundaberg Base Hospital. Mary MacKillop is canonised by the Pope Benedict XVI, making her Australia's first Roman Catholic Saint. Australia's bid to host the 2022 FIFA World Cup is unsuccessful. And we were selling Rolex like there is no tomorrow...  December 3, 2010. Daytona 16520 K1382 $14500 Daytona 116520 K1705 $13999 GMT 16760 (rare transitional) K2010 $7900 GMT 16710 coke K1981 $5799 Can we fly back to 2010?

And now back to reality...

With a half life of 1600 years, radium is here to stay

 

The other day, yet another vintage Rolex came in for repair. The original dial and hands were well preserved with a rather heavy and thick coating of luminous material. A perfect collectors’ example. However, this was a bit worrying as the 1930s luminous material was a mixture of phosphor and radium, and while the phosphor no longer glows, the radium is still as potent as it was 90 years ago. Clearly before we proceeded with disassembly, we needed to measure the radioactivity level, and the ensuing reading was undoubtedly concerning. 4 micro-Sieverts per hour, about 6 times more than the safe level. I called the customer to let him know that while I have no problem repairing the watch, a restoration would make little sense as, if he were to wear the watch for 8 hours a day, he would be exposed to the same levels of radiation as flight attendants or nurses working in a hospital. There are two problems with radium. One is the radiation itself and secondly the creation of radon gas. I am not an expert in this field, but it is the radon gas that is far more harmful than the radiation which comes off the watch dial. A single World War II military watch with a heavy coating of radium can blast 20 µSv/hour or more, which 40 times the safe level. The same goes for military Panerai watches, and if you have a collection of a few stored in a safe deposit box you are protecting yourself from radiation, but not radon gas. According to well documented medical research, radon gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer, with smoking being the first. Radioactive substances are invisible killers and should be taken seriously. If you have a watch with radium dial, and you come in, I would be more than happy to assist. If you wish to dispose of it, call the specialists: https://www.industry.gov.au/strategies-for-the-future/australian-radioactive-waste-agency Here is an interesting article on recent findings of radium in the Swiss watchmaking industry. "Nearly 1,000 watchmaking buildings and workshops in Switzerland could be contaminated by radium, a radioactive element that was used to add luminescence to watch dials and hands until the 1960s." https://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/watchmaking-fallout_one-thousand-swiss-buildings-could-be-contaminated-with-radium-/44070300 And here is the photo of the radiation level of the watch we recently restored. Safe to wear! You can find the link to the entire restoration here: https://youtu.be/iJv5vGt2Us0

Finally a whole box of railway pocket watches, again well within a safe level. Bottom line is collect railway pocket watches and avoid military.

Rusty vintage Rolex: how to cure 'under the crystal' rust?

 

If you are into vintage Rolex submariners fitted with plexi glass (models 5513 and 1680) then you are well aware of a rather annoying problem-  rust visible 'through' plastic glass. This unsightly imperfection is actually too common; finding a perfect vintage Rolex submariner showing no sign of rust and pitting underneath the bezel is almost impossible. Pitting is a form of extremely localised galvanic corrosion that leads to the creation of small holes in the metal. Actually, even the smallest amount of rust located directly underneath the crystal is perfectly visible, thanks to glass acting as a magnifying lens. The only way to get rid of the rust is to remove the bezel, bezel tension ring and then the plexiglass itself and clean all pitted surfaces.

Here is a photo of the middle case after rust removal. Unfortunately the pitted case is no longer waterproof. The possible solution to restore water resistance would be to grind out pitted spots, fill in the cavity by laser welding and then re-grind the surface. However this intervention is a rather major undertaking and would only be done with the owners approval only.

Service on $100,000 Daytona

 

Today's video is slightly different than the others: I am pulling apart and servicing my own watch. It is a 1974 Daytona Ref. 6263, which was sitting unused for a decade in a storage box. The mechanism is a Valjoux 72 which Rolex modified in the 1960s and renamed Rolex 727. What makes this movement special: Valjoux designed it back in 1939! If you are a Daytona collector, then you know that back in the 70s no one really wanted a manual chronograph. The truth is that Daytonas were so unpopular that Rolex could not give them away! Zenith, Omega and Breitling already had their own auto chronographs. A few years later, in the 1980s, Rolex started fitting Zenith movements in Daytona models. Nowadays, prices of vintage Daytonas are going through the roof.  My watch has been serviced four times in the past: March 1985, January 1990, May 1997, November 2007, and this was its fifth time. I hope you'll enjoy it - and no, your comments won't break my heart. Check it out here: https://youtu.be/ZG_VGniV_3U Again, a huge 'well done' goes to Bobby for his cinematography and editing efforts. Without him, this video would not be possible.

Don't buy a lemon!

It only cost $200, but it will save you tens of thousands. It is small in size, but of mighty power. And most importantly, this amazing instrument will take your appreciation of watches, and your watch collecting addiction, to the next level.  We have spent almost two days filming this educational video and we have no doubt you will love it. It is simply called "Don't buy a lemon".  Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hih0ymWUarU

If you have any questions or wish for us to tackle a specific horological issue then please feel free to email us directly at ask@clockmaker.com.au and thank you for subscribing to our YouTube channel, it is much appreciated.

When Rolex is not a Rolex?

LaCalifornienne, a company that "restores vintage timepieces and reimagines them in bold colour", has found themselves in a legal dispute with Rolex, who filed a lawsuit on the 15th November at the US District Court for the Central District of California. LaCalifornienne is an independent watch dealer which customises vintage and pre-owned Cartier and Rolex watches, injecting colour into the classics by altering the original dials, bezels, straps and crystals. Founded three years ago by Courtney Ormond and Leszek Garwacki (defendants), the company is now being sued as Rolex accuses the husband-wife duo of producing and selling counterfeit watches. Featured in the likes of Forbes and Vogue, laCalifornienne watches are praised for ‘breathing new life into vintage timepieces’ and seen as a ‘youthful upgrade to the classics’ (Goop by Gwyneth Paltrow). However, Rolex doesn't think so. During the customisation process, laCalifornienne replace original Rolex parts with non-approved parts, a process which does not sit well with the mega brand. In the lawsuit, Rolex claims that replacing parts in a pre-owned or vintage Rolex no longer “attains the aesthetic” of Rolex and makes an otherwise authentic watch a counterfeit. Not only have laCalifornienne ‘revamped’ Rolex watches giving the Rolex trademark a complete makeover, but Rolex believe that the watches do not perform to the same standard as an unaltered Rolex. After acquiring two of the modified watches, Rolex claimed that the bezels in both watches were “bent and not properly fitted to the watch, and therefore water is likely to leak through, and ultimately, adversely affect the dial and movement of the watch.” This flaw along with others could be detrimental to the Rolex name, “diluting the distinctive quality of Rolex’s registered trademarks” as stated in the case against laCalifornienne. LaCalifornienne is also accused of “benefiting and profiting from Rolex’s outstanding reputation for high quality products and its significant advertising and promotion of Rolex watches and the company’s trademarks” along with falsely suggesting that the watches are “authorised, sponsored, or approved by Rolex when they are not.” I’m kind of with Rolex on this one. While the consumer/watch owner should be free to modify his watch in any way he wishes to, setting up a business with the sole purpose of selling heavily modified Rolex watches and passing them off as genuine is a different story. The fact is this: A Rolex name on a Rolex watch is worth more than the watch itself. And when buying a Rolex, you would want a 100% genuine Rolex watch, not just something that someone has put together. We will be following this case with interest. However, laCalifornienne is just one of many companies which specialises in Rolex modifications. Take for example, Artisans de Geneve (incidentally based in Geneva!). While Artisans de Geneve clearly points out that "modification service is for private customers only, and that customised or modified watches are not intended for resale", in my opinion the end result is the same: a customised Rolex containing non-Rolex components that barely resembles the original design yet bears the Rolex copyrighted logo. I doubt Rolex have not heard of them and wonder what action will be taken. Quite frankly, if Artisans de Geneve are such great artisans, why don't they start their own watch brand, sign watches with their name and show us what they're good at, rather than bastardising Rolex watches and the Rolex brand?

Is Rolex broken?

No - I'm not talking about a Rolex watch or any Rolex watch in particular. The question I would like to get an answer for is this: Is Rolex Swiss Watchmaker a broken company in desperate need of repair? I have to confess, I have never bought a brand new watch from an authorised Rolex dealer. But today on my way to work, I stopped at the Rolex Sydney Boutique, rang the bell and walked in as a customer, holding in hand my hard earned cash. When a 56 year old clean cut chubby man wearing glasses walks into an establishment, and I mean any establishment you can think of, he is a man on a mission. There is no time to be wasted. A mature man needs no sales pitch, he knows what he wants. He can afford it, and he wants it now. "I would like to buy two Rolex watches please - Rolex Submariner and Rolex GMT Master." Instead of  "Yes Sir, cash or card?" the dealer offered the lost puppy  look. In a hushed voice, he  started sharing that old, worn out, well-crafted story of how Rolex sports models are practically unobtainable, that global demand outstrips supply and that even putting my name down on the five years waiting list would make no difference. Finally, he made an attempt to sum up and tie up altogether in one: Rolex watches were always hard to get! "That is complete nonsense" I said. "Rolex stainless steel models were always easy to get. Until recently, Rolex produced one million watches per year and every dealer's window was literally crammed with Rolexs to the point that just looking at them would make one sick. For the past 80 years, buying a Rolex watch was never a hard thing to do, there was no waiting list." "Not anymore," he said, "I could sell 100 a day, but we only get one watch of each model per month." Make no mistake, the Rolex dealer was courteous, patient and genuinely disappointed that he could not sell me a watch. And the situation we are in right now is the least of his fault. But neither is it mine. Punishing a buyer for wanting something that everybody else wants simply doesn't make sense. I left the shop disappointed, and as I type this, I can only think of those 99 Rolex customers who will feel the same today. Their loyalty to the brand will be tested and they will be left with only three options: to remain loyal to the brand that will never sell them a watch that they dream of, to pay almost double for a second hand Rolex, or to buy an Omega. When a loyal customer is left with these three options, two of which are deeply humiliating, then perhaps something is broken; not in Sydney but in Switzerland, something that no watchmaker can fix.

Apprentice Corner: Book Review

***Book Review of the Week:
Vintage Rolex Sports Models - by Martin Skeet and Nick Urul

Vintage Rolex Sports Models, written by long time collectors and watch enthusiasts Martin Skeet & Nick Urul, is a comprehensive reference for any fan of Rolex sports watches. The ‘sports’ watches consists of the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, GMT-Master, Explorer, Turn-O-Graph and Cosmograph.


Each section begins with an overview of the history of the model, describing the catalysts that lead to its conception, design inspiration, choice of movement and even how it was marketed.


This is followed by each of the model’s references listed out chronologically with even the minutest changes noted: font variations, case sizes, movements, bracelets, hands, finishes and everything else that could possibly differ is described.


My favourite section is without question the one on advertisements & literature. Full of pamphlets, magazine spreads and other advertising paraphernalia, it’s a fascinating insight into how Rolex as a brand and watch innovations in general progressed over the years. It’s rather amusing to read how watches were marketed in the 1940’s-1990’s: big bold statements like ‘a diver's dream come true!’ and ‘Rolex conquers Everest!’ were accompanied by long gushing testimonials from famous wearers and shameless self-promotion as to how damned good Rolex really is.


Need to confirm that you’ve got the right box? Check that the paperwork matches up? How do you make sense of the serial number? It’s all here with accompanying photos that’ll help you know exactly what you’re dealing with.


The price guide section is, of course, obsolete now, but such information is best checked online anyway.


There is one thing that I feel detracts from the book, however. One of my favourite things about watch books is the beautiful photographs of the watches that make you want to pick up the book time and time again, regardless of whether you’re interested in the information therein. Unfortunately, all the pictures of the models and their different references are seemingly just computer renderings. Good ones at that, but most of the watches look rather two dimensional and are without any of the ‘character’ that draws people to vintage Rolex.


In fairness, with over 140 models featured and some of them being exceedingly rare, the authors would have had a hell of a time trying to photograph them all. As well, some might see this as a good thing as it enables one to more clearly distinguish the different references, as some of the variations between them are quite subtle indeed. Nonetheless, I still think it would’ve been nice to have an actual picture or two in each section.



If you’re a serious Rolex collector with a focus on their sports watch offerings then this book would surely prove to be a valuable asset. The book was published in 2002 so don’t expect to see any information on watches produced thereafter. It is, after all, a vintage Rolex book, so if this is what you’re after it should be perfect for you.

Rolex Servicing

Probably the most common inquiry we get is “do you do Rolex repairs?”
The short answer is; it depends.

With the current workload of rebelde watches to be assembled, every moment in the workshop is priceless. In other words, rebelde is, and always will be, our priority. However, there is always that great sense of satisfaction that comes from the repair or restoration of a Rolex watch that was written off as unrepairable or too old to be repaired by Rolex themselves.

Our bottleneck is the availability of genuine Rolex spare parts. Since Rolex no longer supports independent watch makers in Australia, we are forced to search for genuine parts worldwide. In general, the restriction of spare parts makes them more expensive and it takes longer to get them. So if you’re not in a hurry then in most cases, yes, we can help you.

The other group of customers that we are able to help are the owners of vintage Rolex watches who prefer to keep the watch in as an original condition as possible. When it comes to servicing and replacement of spare parts, our golden rule is to preserve the original dial and hands, bezel and bracelet; which means our goal is to preserve the authenticity and collectability of the Rolex, rather than to turn them into factory-new condition.

The third group of customers are Rolex owners who simply find Rolex servicing prices unreasonably high. If you need an independent second opinion and a second quote then again, most likely, we would be able to help you.

The final group of customers are those who find our service more down-to-earth and who prefer a more intimate relationship with the watchmaker. To them, we simply can’t say no.

Our speciality is vintage Rolex sports models like the Submariner, GMT Master, Explorer and, of course, Datejust.  In most cases, the complete overhaul/restoration cost would be around AUD $850.
The only restriction is we don’t work on watches manufactured after 2010, we work only on the older watches.

Happy collecting,
Josh

Sydney Watches Pty Ltd is an independent watch repair service centre, not affiliated with nor authorised by Rolex, Switzerland.

Rolex Submariner 1680 Red - restoration, part II

Rolex 1680 The Red Sub

While we are still on the quest for the 'missing puzzle' - Which shop sold Rolex watches on Norfolk Island in 1970s? the owner of the Red Sub was anxious to get his baby back, so I got straight into Red restoration.

Before you see the photos, couple of points on what a true and faithful collectors of vintage Rolex watches regard as the 'honest way' to restore a watch:

- Mechanism: complete overhaul. Worn out or broken parts are to be replaced. For the same reason you would replace a brake pads on 1972 Porsche, you should replace movement components which are essential and responsible for time keeping. Remember: if it doesn't tell the time, it's not a watch!

- case parts: light polish only. This is done by hand, of course. Plexy glass: again, polish only. Original bezel insert should be retained for two reasons: originality and distinctive vintage look.

- bracelet: a worn out bracelet must be replaced! Again, you would not restore a vintage car and drive it around 'preserving' the 50 years old set of tires. Old bracelet should be preserved, but not attached to a newly restored watch.

- case seal: rubber seal should be replace. This is not optional! While vintage watches are no longer expected to be water resistant, seals are meant to be replaced regardless.

- dial and hands: this is actually the most important bit. The dial and hands should NEVER be replaced. Dial replacement is sacrilegious! Not only the new dial would spoil the look but it would significantly devalue the watch.

In other words, a proper restoration means bringing the watch in good working order wile preserving as much of it's character and originality, whenever that is possible. Like with any restoration, the end result should never become irreversible.

Once again, vintage watches should not be worn in water. When worn daily, extra care and attention should be taken. After all, we are just guardians- beautiful pieces will outlive it's custodians and will be passed on to the next generation of careful are respectful owners.

At least we hope so.

Case disassembly

the 'red' dial was manufactured by dial maker Beyeler, Geneve

the mainspring was dry, long overdue for cleaning, polishing and lubrication

movement disassembled, components ready for cleaning

main spring polished and lubricated

balance wheel

movement assembled

dial

hands assembly

checking for clearence

movement assembled !

Plexiglas polishing

by hand :-)

more plexi polishing

"brushing" the lugs - refinishing

case cleaning

not bad :-)

almost there

ready to go!

As you would imagine, this quick 'show and tell' blog entry covers only some of steps involved in restoration which took approximately 6 hours. Holding the camera with one hand and assembling the watch with other is challenge I am yet to master :-)

1972 Rolex 1680 Red Submariner: one original owner.

You love your red Submariners? Me too!

This lovely example of a 1680 red Sub manufactured in the last quarter of 1972 just arrived to our workshop for a complete overhaul. The bracelet had virtually disintegrated, but the good old Subbie suffered no other damage.

Naturally this was a great opportunity to chat with the original owner who got it in 1975. That's right - the watch sat in a dealer's shop unsold for over two years! The Red 1680 Submariner was hardly a hot selling item back then :-).

The owner has had it since then and except for a couple of services in the late 80s and one in 2007, the watch spent 38 years happily ticking on his wrist.

"Would you like to know what your watch is worth today" - I had to ask.

"Yes, I would - but It really does not matter to me. It is the sentimental value, not the monetary one that makes it special. But I do remember what my wife paid for it: exactly $250, from a dealer on Norfolk Island - where we went for our honeymoon!"

Getting this one back to good working order is now more a matter of pleasure and enjoyment and my top priority. I just LOVE red subs!

Now, you may say that finding a red sub is not a big deal, there are hundreds of them out there on eBay and from online sellers.

I respectfully disagree. Pieces which are put together, and contain both original and aftermarket Rolex parts are not what serious collectors are interested in.

Good stuff - watches bought and worn by one original owner - are extremely hard to find and almost impossible to buy. As our customer said: money cannot buy memories.

One thing you can help me with: who was the Rolex dealer and what was the name of the shop on Norfolk Island that operated there in the 1970s?

Stay tuned for post-service photos!

Watch crystal: sapphire or mineral glass?

Is there a definitive test for sapphire crystal?

We are often asked how one can tell the difference between sapphire crystal and mineral glass. Various 'internet experts' offer a variety of crystal tests - from tapping, heating, touching - even licking (yuck!)- to what is known as 'the definite' test: scratching the watch crystal with a hard and sharpen nail.

Of course, there is a simple and PROPER way to tell what the crystal is made of: with the help of a diamond tester, the result will be known in a second. A hand-held diamond tester checks the thermal conductivity and the result is displayed on a scale.

Bad news: most likely, you won't have one in your tool box, but the good news is: your local jeweller most likely will. The diamond tester is commonly used in the jewellery trade. If you ask your jeweller to perform a crystal test, he would surely be happy to help. (While there, place an order for a 3Ct diamond ring, that would make his day :)

The test is a straight forward one. Like natural sapphire, a synthetic sapphire watch crystal will 'excite' the LED meter to the very last red bar, just under the "diamond" level. Mineral glass will result in no lit LED lights. And it is as simple as that!

Contrary to commonly held opinion, that even a hard synthetic sapphire crystal like the one fitted on a Rolex watch CAN be scratched. If you are still tempted to go for a sharp nail test, do it in the privacy of your home. There is nothing more embarrassing than scratching your brand new Submariner in front of a dozen of your office mates. Unless you want to be remembered as "the watch guy".

Photos below show the reading on sapphire crystal front and mineral glass case back. The last one is diamond test.