SCHAUBLIN lathe - which one?

Today's email is primarily intended for young watchmakers and clockmakers. However, I strongly believe the topic could be of interest to all watch enthusiasts. So feel free to keep reading. For easy digestion and clarity it is presented in 'Q and A format'.

What is a Schaublin lathe?

Schaublin lathes are one of the most popular Swiss-made manual-operated lathes designed for precision machining. What makes this lathe so uniquely special is the fact that this is one of the most widely-used lathes in the watch industry.

The Schaublin headquarters are in Bevilard, which is the true heart of Swiss watchmaking. The quality and longevity of the lathe is such that it can easily run for 50 or more years; and, as Schaublin proudly proclaims, many of their lathes are still in daily use after more than 60 years.
It’s clear when you invest in Schaublin you are investing in a precision instrument which will last you for your lifetime, and you will never need another lathe.

How many models are available?

The two most popular models are Schaublin 70 and 102.

What is the difference between 70 and 102?

The model numbers represent the height between the lathe centre and its base (70mm or 102 mm). Both lathes provide the same level of accuracy, however 102 can machine larger components.

Which model is best suited for my requirements?

Here is the short list in order of preference/machining requirements:

Schaublin 70
1. Watchmaking
2. Clockmaking
3. Precision toolmaking

Schaublin 102
1. Precision toolmaking
2. Clockmaking
3. Watchmaking

It is important to note that you can make any component on the larger 102 that you can on the smaller 70, but not the other way around. Obviously, if your intention is to make smaller-sized components then the more affordable 70 presents much better value for money.

Collet size?
Schaublin 70: W12
Schaublin 102: W20 or W25

What is the basic Schaublin lathe configuration?
In its basic configuration the lathe comes with a bench, beds, motor, carriage and tail-stock.

Price?
The price of a basic 102 model is AUD$31,200.

Which accessories are available?
The Schaublin catalogue lists pages and pages of accessories which would expand the capabilities of your lathe. Some of the most popular lathes are: dividing head with discs ($3500), grinding attachment ($4500) and milling attachment ($8500). Note: collets or chucks are not included so a basic set of collets and at least one 3-jaw chuck would be required ($3500).

The total?

Assuming you can live without the grinding attachment, the total would be around $51,700, plus $1700 for packing, around $2500 for shipping to Australia, and around $6,000 in GST.

AUD $60,000 for a small manual lathe? You must be joking!?

Yes, the Schaublin 102 is a relatively small piece of equipment, however, it is an indispensable high precision prototyping tool, built to last for 60 years.

During my past visit to Switzerland, I had the opportunity to see countless Schaublin 102 lathes in operation employed by almost every watch manufacturer, including, of course, the most famous brands. Some workshops had 10 or more. The 102 is a true toolmaker’s lathe which means it is used not just for component making but for tool making as well.

For example, a toolmaker in a watch industry needs a 102 to make tools for other machines.

Subcontracting a third-party toolmaker is both expensive and time-consuming; a set of arbours or part holders which could be easily made on a 102 can cost $1500 or more if subcontracted. So in a busy watch manufacturing factory a Schaublin 102 is not just a smart investment which will pay for itself in a short period of time but a necessity.

Are there any second hand Schaublins out there?

Based on my extensive research, finding a 102 which is younger than 40 years is almost impossible. While collets and attachments are perfectly interchangeable, the overhaul cost is prohibitive. In fact, the restoration bill for an older machine could run into thousands of dollars.
Since the shipping, packaging and import duty/GST is the same for an old and new machine there are no savings in buying an earlier model. Therefore, in most cases second hand/pre-owned old machines makes a poor and unpractical choice.

Any alternatives?

Not really. While there are a number of other toolmaker lathes out there Schaublin is the only lathe maker with a watchmaker’s pedigree, produced in Switzerland primarily for the watchmaking industry.

While some American lathe makers, like Hardinge from New York or the Californian-based Lagun, manufacture excellent toolmaker lathes renowned for both machine and work-holding rigidity and excellent accuracy, none of them offer the  versatility and range of accessories like Schaublin.

Looks like Schaublin 102 is then out of reach for a small Australian watchmaker?

Sadly, for most Australian watchmakers this fine lathe will just remain an item on the wish list…

Happy collecting,
Nick

How many angels can dance on the head of a pin(ion)?

***How many angels can dance on the head of a pin(ion)?

Depends, I guess; and your answer is as good as any - assuming you even have an interest in debating topics of no practical value. But this is precisely the question which came to my mind during the visit to a watch factory in Chaux de La-Fonds, Switzerland, last week.

For those of you who have just subscribed: I am emailing you from Switzerland. The purpose of my tour is threefold:  to learn as much as possible about the manufacturing of individual watch components; to acquire machinery for such production and to find an established independent watch manufacturer who will supply Swiss-made mechanisms for our Rebelde brand, until we develop our own in-house movement.  Namely, an automatic date movement (coming in 2018) as well as chronograph (2019).

So far the learning experience could be simply described as life-changing.   
Thanks to some old connections and a set of new circumstances, I was offered a tour of a highly specialized watch factory which manufactures a wide range of in-house movements, from chronographs to tourbillons. Due to the fact that they supply movements to some top end brands I am not at liberty to share any photographs, or even tell you their name but, thanks to their generous hospitality, I was able to see and touch every component, see every machine used in production, and have every question answered.

So back to the original question - how many watchmakers, how much time and effort and how much money is required to manufacture a $100,000 movement in-house? And not just to develop it from  scratch, but to make almost every single component for it, in one building, literally in one house?

The manufacturer has been in business for 10 years.  It started as a dream project of just two people. Today, they employ 95 watchmakers - designers, tool makers, machinists, engineers and assemblers. In such a short period of time they have developed the ability to make almost every component, except for watch jewels and main springs. Last year, they made their own hair spring, which makes them one of a handful of businesses in the world who can make such prestigious claims.

The facility tour started at the design office where four young men started to turn their dream into a blueprint. Then I was shown a prototyping department where  three or four watchmakers make, by hand, first a running prototype using hand tools, as well as the latest CNC machines. 
Once the movement is designed, assembled and tested, the show really begins:  I was taken to the basement - a metal warehouse which contains almost any imaginable variety of steel, brass, titanium, silver and countless alloys.  The raw material is heat-treated and prepared for machining of component mass production.

The second floor looks like a scene from a sci-fi movie:   About 20 or so CNC mills are packed tightly into one not-so large room; the smell of lubricants, coolants; high speed spindles creating the noise similar to dental drills, turning the raw plates into main watch plates and bridges. The entire floor is run just by a few engineers and the operation goes 24 x 7, day and night.

The third floor is the turning department which produces wheels and pinions, screws and barrel arbours. To my amazement, they are using CNC lathes from the very same manufacturer we use! Physically, this is the largest room but it only houses 5 lathes. For a moment I felt an overwhelming sense of joy realizing that our lathe is capable of much more that I thought but the joy dissipated quickly, once I realized that one CNC lathe is just  the starting point.

Raw wheels and pinions are then transferred to the gearing department for hobbing and pivot polishing - again, this job is highly specialized and conducted by half a dozen watchmakers.  And - unlike in previous stages of mass production - here each component is assembled individually one at the time, painstakingly by hand.  Once you see how slow this process is you really start to appreciate the cost factor of your watch mechanism. But the quality of the wheels is in direct relation to timekeeping, so no shortcuts here. The pivot tolerances are well below 3 microns which in itself is rather mindblowing. In addition, some wheels can be only produced in small batches because polishing tools require frequent re-sharpening. A pivot polishing diamond disc would require attention every 2000 parts. And , yes, there are grinding wheels which polish other grinding wheels, which then polish the final tools. There are 3 sets of tools required to accomplish just one final polishing operation. The cost of the polishing machines? A bit more than a Porsche.  To see a dozen pivot burnishing machines in a room not larger than our small office is like seeing 12 Porsches parked in a driveway.

There were other departments which I am not going to talk about. Each of them would require a separate write-up. For example, the parts pressing unit which housed two dozen stamping presses with in-house developed automation.  Or a ball bearing assembly line.  However, the department that was probably most exciting was the manufacturing lab employing the latest wire-cutting technology. The process itself is rather simple: a string of wire the thickness of a human hair is charged with an electrical current. The metal is submerged in oil and then can be 'machined' with incredible precision. This process allows for manufacturing of some of the most complex components -  levers, springs, clips, all the way to chronograph crown wheels. A part which would require 20 hours by hand can be produced in 20 minutes. The application of this technology is still new in the watchmaking industry and the first major 'branching out' from the traditional metal work. Each machine costs $400,000 and they have seven of them, run by two engineers.

As George Daniels painfully  figured out, and famously proclaimed, the final finishing is the crown jewel of watchmaking. Making a perfect part means not just a good working part but, above all, a beautifully crafted part.  Again, I was enjoying watching the craftsmanship of two well-aged watchmakers who polished tourbillon cages by hand. I only stood there for less than a minute, admiring but not intruding, silently.

The finished components finally make their way to 3 assembly rooms:  the general, master and tourbillon room.

The general watchmaker's assembly room employs watchmakers with less than 10 years’ experience, the master room is where three master watchmakers assemble 'complications'. And then there were only two watchmakers in the tourbillon room: a man in his early 30s and a young lady in her late 20s. Both interrupted their work to greet me and to show me the masterpiece they were assembling. Obviously, the company treats them like minor royalty, working independently, at their own pace, free to pause and chat.

The entire tour de manufacture lasted for over 2 hours and was concluded in the meeting room where it started. My host then asked: "So, Nikola, now that you've seen our capabilities, what can we do for your Rebelde project?".

The time for courtesy, accolades and admiration was over. In front of me were 4 trays of watch movements, ranging from a simple chronograph to an astronomical tourbillon, each in a different colour, finish and grade. And I could have ANY of them, manufactured in house, finished as per my request, in any quantity my heart desired, signed "Swiss Made for Rebelde", delivered in 6 months’ time, to be housed in the case of my own design, fitted with a rebelde dial, on the rebelde strap.

I really had no idea what to say at that moment, but my first request was for a glass of a cold sparkling Swiss water.

There was no mistake -  I was given the opportunity of a lifetime to forge a small but crucial partnership with a true, small, independent Swiss watchmaker, who was ready to take my order. And it was clear that if I missed this opportunity, the next one may come - never.

"At this stage of rebelde brand development, a simple 3-register automatic chronograph would be a logical step forward. (Stop talking now- the left side of the brain was screaming in my head!) And since our customers are rather pragmatic, practical, no-fuss Aussies (yes, blame the customers!) a rather conservative Geneva waves finish would be sufficient. "

"Any special requirements in regard to the logo on the rotor weight?"

"A red star", I replied.

"Quantity?"

While the meeting room had no windows,  I swear, somewhere in the distance I could hear the cow bells. I could clearly see the rolling greens of the Swiss Jura, the smell of cheese, the blueness of  Neuchatel lake, and the snow  covered mountain peaks of Mont Blanc. 

"200".

"Very good" said the host and we shook hands. "Your invoice will be mailed to you after the holidays. Have a safe trip home".

'Remortgaged the home', said the left brain lobe.  'Or as the Swiss would say, ‘Maison abandonnee' - concluded cheerfully the right lobe.

But I had no time to listen to either - just 19 kilometres down the road was Jerome's machinery warehouse. The gear hobber, here I come!

[to be continued]

Happy collecting,
Nick

Rebelde Mark 1

***Rebelde Mark 1

Taking mark 1 orders now - https://nickhacko.blogspot.com/2019/01/mark-1-taking-orders-now.html

This is hardly a secret: over the years, I have received quite a few requests for a 'slightly different' rebelde. Basically, there is a quite a lot of demand for a watch with the case size of around 40mm.  Also, a number of subscribers have expressed interest in a self-winding timepiece (automatic watch). The third request: all-Roman numeral dial, or alternatively, Arabic numerals only, but not the mix.

There are a number of reasons why such models are still on the drawing board. The most obvious: the inability to source a quality, high-grade custom-finish Swiss mechanism. The good news is that I have finally managed to find a Swiss maker who can supply a movement of the specifications I was looking for. Moreover, the minimum order quantity can be as low as 200 pieces which would be just perfect for a two 75-piece run (with 50 movements to be kept in stock for spare parts).  I am yet to settle on the details, but in general, the watch case will look similar to IWC Mark 16 or Mark 17: a cross-over between a sport and dress piece, perfectly suitable for a medium size wrist.

The Swiss movement maker is reputable and reliable and has been in business for decades. Like with previous movements we got from Switzerland, our new 'for rebelde' movement will have a custom finish, a very special auto rotor (with the rebelde logo and star) and blue screws, lending itself for a case with a see-through case back. There is also a possibility to have two variations: one with a central sweep seconds hand and one with small seconds at 6 o’clock. I am really keen on the latter; the small hands will make a nice connection to the existing rebelde models.

So last week I formally placed my order for the movements. The delivery time is around 6 months. Of course, the work on the case design, dial and hands will commence once the sample movement arrives. Realistically, if all goes as planned and, assuming no major delays, the first 'rebelde auto' will be assembled in July 2018.

To say that I am excited would be an understatement. Having two new models would be a huge step forward. Of course, both the stainless steel 44mm and titanium 45mm models will remain in production - my production philosophy is simple: to keep producing small batches / limited quantity of both Pilots and Control Tower for years to come. It would be silly to discontinue a model which is well-made, robust, repairable and waterproof.

Probably the most exciting bit about the rebelde auto: the retail price is expected to be $2,500. This would make it less than half price of a similar IWC watch, yet the quality of the mechanism and the case will be as good as IWC.

Stay tuned for more - and if you have a suggestion feel free to email. Unfortunately, at this stage, I am not ready to take any orders so you will have to hold your horses until at least early 2018.  As always, this project is only possible thanks to your loyal support, for which I thank you.

Taking mark 1 orders now - https://nickhacko.blogspot.com/2019/01/mark-1-taking-orders-now.html


Happy collecting,

Nick

Breeding kangaroos at the top of the Mont Blanc

***Breeding kangaroos at the top of the Mont Blanc

After spending a week in Geneva, I am now heading north towards Neuchâtel and La Chaux-de-Fonds; regions that specialise in the production of just a handful of components, supplying the 'brand names'. While the watch industry is the core, finely-machined components are supplied to the medical, electronic and military industries as well.

So what makes the Swiss swiss? Apart from the obvious - the know-how and super precision equipment - it is the tradition, persistence and unique mindset that makes the Swiss business model so resilient, practically with no competition.

The business model has been unchanged for hundreds of years: from father to son. The small factories are passed on - and with them, the capital, knowledge and connections. But 'passed on' does not mean mere inheritance. Rather, the sons are expected to purchase the business from their fathers, then work hard to pay off the loan while continuing to invest in new technologies. Taking into account that the 'product' must remain price competitive, this is a huge challenge for the new generation. But the kids are doing fine - and so far I have met at least a dozen businesses where I am dealing with 20 or 30-something CEOs who are 'on fire'. Yes, the fathers and grandfathers are quietly watching from a distance, keeping an eye on the deals and transactions but the 'next generation' of Swiss entrepreneurs are firmly seated and in charge.

"Established" is the key word. To be taken seriously and considered as a potential customer, I am expected to be established and have a proven track record. My introduction is brief, and to the point: "a third-generation watch repairer, and the owner of the smallest watch brand in the world with 660 watches sold, all working." "Is this your watch?” - is the first question I am asked. And without exception, it is the rebelde watch itself that opens the doors. Humble, but obviously robust, traditional yet raw. "So which components do you actually make?" is the second question. 
"At this stage, cylindrical components under the radius of 4mm, however we will be soon making the main plates and bridges. This year we intend to acquire a gear hobbing machine and pivot burnisher, and this is why I am here."

The mention of these two highly specialized pieces of equipment often results in a rather puzzled look. "Wouldn't be easier to subcontract those operations to wheel specialists?" And from then on, I go on to explain in length that there are no watch gear-cutting specialists in Sydney, nor in Australia. Actually, we are the only watchmakers in Australia trying to make movement components and our journey to our own in-house movement will be long, unpredictable and bumpy. But we are determined and we will get there, sooner or later.

I am sure that some of my subscribers will question next my statement, but I am taking the risk of being misunderstood: 
‘Swiss made’ is so easy - if you are in Switzerland. There are countless numbers of specialists who will be more than happy to manufacture any component you want or need, even in a quantity of one. If I were to relocate to Geneva, I would have my own designed "Swiss Made" watch movement in less than 12 months. But “Made in Australia” is extremely difficult. Not only because of the enormous financial commitment, but because we are attempting something that is next to impossible. We are pioneering an entire micro industry in our own backyard. And this realization is unbearably painful. Making watches in Australia is more difficult than breeding kangaroos at the top of the Mont Blanc. The challenge which borders on the insane, a useless task destined to fail.

At the same time, and for that very same reason, even the little that we manufacture right now is truly very special and impressive; probably more so to the Swiss than Aussies. But our time is yet to come...

I will leave you now with just two mind-bending thoughts:  I have met a Swiss spring-maker who manufactures one type of spring. He is so sub-specialized that one of his machines has been making that very same spring for 13 years, 24 hours per day, seven days per week. One spring, one machine, 13 years, non-stop.

The second case: I meet the20-something CEO of a stem-making company. After learning that we have a CNC machine capable of full industrial production, he asked how many watch stems I make. A dozen a day, if that, I told him. Which material do I use? Stainless steel, 316L. "Fine", he said. "We make 1,200,000 stems per month and sell them for 17 cents apiece.” “This is crazy,” - I replied – “the cost of the material alone is twice that much! How can a Swiss-made stem be cheaper than one made in China?" He laughed - his family has been making watch stems for over 70 years, they have hundreds of stem making machines ranging from the old manual and CAM machines to the latest CNC ones, all working, all paid off. They are using the steel they have had in stock since the watch manufacturing crisis of the 70s. And yes, more than half of their output goes to China – because the Chinese are happy to pay less for more.

The best way to describe my Swiss trip would be a roller-coaster ride. And I am yet to share with you some of the truly life changing encounters. 
Stay tuned! 
Nick

Fasten Your Seatbelts

***Fasten Your Seatbelts

A rebelde T-clamp for a mill vice, machined in Sydney.

This is hardly a surprise: manufacturing contributes just 7 percent of Australian gross domestic products. What is scary is this: manufacturing has shrunk 20% since 2015. While as a nation and as individuals we are still amongst the 12 wealthiest nations in the world, the wealth comes from services, not from making physical goods. Even mining contributes just 9% of our GDP.

Unless the trend is reversed, the consequences will be tragic: we are raising a generation of smart kids waiting for their inheritance, yet kids who possess no product-making skills.For a nation to grow healthy, a good balance of manufacturing, servicing, mining and yes, even agricultural activities, is essential. 

What are the reasons for the decline in Australian manufacturing? I am not an expert in this field, so instead of offering my 'rebellious leftist socialist' opinion, let me quote the Australian industry experts:

"The reasons for the long-term decline of manufacturing in Australia are many. Particularly significant is a long-standing policy indifference to the manufacturing sector, bordering on hostility from central economic agencies such as the Treasury, the Reserve Bank and the Productivity Commission. This flows from a colonial cringe, the commitment to a neoliberal 'free market' ideology and continued adherence to the orthodox economic doctrine of 'comparative advantage' - the belief that a nation should produce only those things for which it has a 'natural' or innate advantage over other countries."

Again, this is scary. The snowball is melting and regardless of which side you take, and how you see the future of Australia, you should be concerned. Because without people who know how to actually MAKE things, we would not be able to technically advance. We will not be able to stop the boats, build submarines, or hospitals, or do advanced research, or combat climate change - not even fix broken bones. We must re-learn how to shape metals or we will remain colonized, and soon become a foreign-owned and foreign run nation.

Yesterday, Josh and I spent all day visiting metal merchants and machining shop suppliers. To say that we are disappointed would be an understatement. The snowball is melting fast: after the closure of automotive industry manufacturing plants, it is obvious that demand for precision machining is no longer there. Almost 100% of hand tools, measuring equipment, lathes, mills and accessories are cheap Chinese imports. The product range would hardly satisfy the needs of an advanced machining shop which specializes in the repair of large field machinery. The hobbyists are gone too. Your typical Englishman looking for a strip of brass or a small diameter rod for his clock or steam model engine is dead and buried, and his Myford lathe is either exported to China or rusting fast in his garage. His son is a well-to-do banker or an accountant or a business consultant and he has no interest in his dad's lathe.  Yet just a bunch of old hobbyists would generate enough of a 'butterfly effect' to keep the steel merchants interested in offering small cuts and off-cuts, so dearly important for prototyping.

Sandvik, the world largest special-metal and cutting tool supplier has basically closed its Australian office. While their website still lists a Smithfield-based business as its sales representative, this is just an error, to be fixed with their next website update. And who can blame them?  Why bother doing business with a colony on the other side of the world?

Last night Josh spent a good half an hour talking to a sales representative of a German precision instrument maker, based in Australia and specializing in mills. In the ten years since he started promoting the high-end machine, he has failed to sell even ONE single unit. At one stage, he thought that he finally made a sale but after 4 years dealing with one Australian Government-owned business, the sale contract failed.

Now, we are not talking about a mega million dollars investment: the machine is no more expensive than a high performance sports car. But ten years without a sale is a long time to be patient, even for a German salesman. I can only imagine how many German machines he could have sold if he was based in China, Russia, Brazil - or even Indonesia; in countries where people actually make things.

The butterfly effect - a sale of just one high precision machine to a Government-run plant would mean the whole world of difference. Once the machine arrives, we would have a whole bunch of Australians trained to use it; and a few more who would learn how to maintain it. There would be an immediate requirement for exotic materials and very specialist tools which would attract the attention of Australian tool and material suppliers. Once the machine was set up and production commenced, it would become a talking point and would attract media attention. It would then attract the attention of small private businesses. A few more machines would be imported and businesses would be able to share their know-how, innovate and improve, and offer a high-tech product for both the domestic and export markets.

The road ahead of us is bumpy and unpredictable. We have fastened our seatbelts and so should you.

Happy collecting,
Nick

Another Act of Rebellion

***Another Act of Rebellion

If there is one thing about the rebelde project that I would change in a heartbeat, it would be the word 'rebelde' itself. 
If you're from an English-speaking background then you will have a hard time pronouncing this Spanish word properly. Because in English that 'e' at the end of rebelde is silent, yet in Spanish it is the last tone that gives the word its unmistakable meaning; an on-going battle, a rebellion against mighty forces that want to enslave you.

But then again perhaps there is no better substitute, no better word that could describe the struggle of a small independent watchmaker that is trying to break free of Swiss shackles. And today is another of those small victory days; a break-away day from Swiss jewel suppliers.

A quick introduction into watch jewelling: a watch jewel is a synthetic bearing which holds (hugs?) the pivots of the watch wheels. The quality of the watch and its ability to keep time is directly related to the quality of its jewels. The watch jewels are incredibly small yet polished to perfection. There are only a handful of watch jewel manufacturers in the world and most of them are either Swiss or use Swiss materials.

The dependency of Swiss-made jewels in the watch industry is such that even the most famous watchmakers (both large and small) would not even consider making jewels in-house. The technology, knowledge and expertise required in jewel making is simply beyond their reach.

If you're a small watchmaker trying to create your own watch mechanism, then the gear-train design would be a catch-22. Before you can design the wheels you would need to know the size of your jewels. But there is no such a thing as a standard jewel size because jewels are made to specific requirements. In other words, you cannot go to a jewel manufacturer and say that you would like the same jewels as they make and supply for Rolex. The jewel manufacturer would ask you to provide your own specific measurements. What makes things more complex is that even a simple mechanism would require 10 different jewel sizes. Multiply that figure by the minimum order quantity requirement and then by the price per jewel and you will come up with a figure of around $60,000 - for just one calibre.

This is a scary figure. But if rebelde is to become known as a maker of its own in-house, Australian-made movement, then this investment is unavoidable. Today we received samples of a Japanese jewel manufacturer, a leader in their field, who is interested in our order. The good news: we will have our own jewels and they won't be made in Switzerland. While we haven't even commenced the design of our in-house movement, we believe that we can have a working prototype in less than 5 years. It will take many small victories like this one to get there, and this is why we count on your continued support.

Viva la revolution!   

Happy collecting,
Nick

Australian Machining Fair - But Australian Manufacturing?

***Australian Machining Fair - But Australian Manufacturing? – by Josh

Two weeks ago I attended the Austech fair in Melbourne, an Australian Manufacturing Initiative to bring OEM's, subcontractors, hobbyists and the general public together to show off manufacturing in Australia. Although this description of the event is not an accurate way of describing the goal of Austech, it is quite easy to see that it is perceived this way. Machine tool suppliers, tooling manufacturers, auxiliary equipment suppliers (lubricant, cooling, dust collection, chip extraction etc) were all there en masse. 

It was interesting for me to go to a show with no specific goal, other than to see if there was anything that would be applicable to the watch industry. Looking back you could say that this was a little optimistic. Often the very difficult part of "setting yourself up" is buying the right things. Therefore, knowing what to buy can be just as hard, if not harder, than physically buying it. We did end up acquiring a few new items that will be living in the Brookvale facility, although I'd have to say the few industry connections that were formed at the fair are far more valuable than the purchased items themselves.

Meeting with a few Australian subcontract companies and talking to people who have been where we are and have experienced the difficulties of starting up a manufacturing process in Australia was a very exciting experience. Seeing them talk about their successes despite an incredibly challenging Australian engineering landscape was highly encouraging. For example, Mastercut, located on the Gold Coast who, against all odds, is doing export work as well as OEM work in Australia. Mastercut specialises in photochemical etching and laser-cutting thin metal sheets. Their minimum order? One piece or a thousand. Not directly in our industry, but they may be a perfect partner for our clock dials! (Stay tuned.)

It wasn't all rosy. The fact that in a hall of 300 exhibitors and only a handful represented true Australian manufacturing was disappointing. Seeing stall after stall of overseas subcontractors bidding for your part was a reality check. How much is actually made in Australia? At the risk of sounding Australia-centric and almost nationalistic, I feel very strongly that the little we endeavour to make should stay within our borders.
Sometimes we get what we pay for. Parts may be cheaper from all over the world, but will we really settle for a 90 day lead time, low quality control and in some cases blatant misinterpretation of engineering drawings and requirements? 

Austech left me in a bittersweet place; excited by the small pockets of Australian technology but concerned about the larger issues surrounding a possibly struggling sector. How can we encourage the growth of high skill labour and trades? What can we do to make higher quality goods? Is there a possibility of "Australian Made" being a common and expected title?

The driving force is the consumer, your choice on where to spend your dollar. It might require a few more dollars to buy the Akubra hat, Maton guitar or rebelde watch but in the long term, those dollars will come back to you in one way or another. Another job created, another Australian supported.

Happy collecting,
Josh

Using the Right Tools

***Machinists say that if a job is too difficult then you are using the wrong tool.



And you don't have to be a machinist to agree.
Remember how much trouble you had that time trying to remove a screw using the wrong screwdriver, or drilling a hole with a worn-out drill bit. Not only was the end result pathetic, but you were left frustrated, swearing you'd never do it again. When it comes to micro-machining, and especially the manufacture of watch parts, then using the right tool is essential.

Going through the boxes of newly arrived tools from Switzerland, I was once again amazed by the beauty of the polygon cutter. This little baby is used for milling a square section of the winding stem and, if run at the appropriate speed and with the correct feed rate, it would not only cut the square but it would also leave the surface highly polished so that no further machining would be required.
The blades diameter is only 2mm and it was manufacured in Switzerland by DIXI Polytools, specialists in tungsten carbide and diamond cutting tools, who have been in the business since 1946.
Yes, the tool cost a small fortune but there is no substitute for it. If you want to end up with a component that is a piece of art, you have to start with a tool that is a work of art itself. Next time I will share a few photos of this end mill in action – stay tuned!

Happy collecting,
Nick

Doomsday

***Doomsday

In 2014 an Englishman knocked on my door. He introduced himself as a writer, working on a new title called ‘How the World Became Obsessed with Time’. He looked smart and sounded sharp, so I decided to give him a chance. We chatted for about 45 minutes on a subject he found fascinating; a small anonymous watchmaker from Australia taking on the Swiss heavyweights. Quite frankly, I forgot all about him and our conversation before the lift even hit the ground floor. 

Until last week that is, when a customer mentioned that he’d read about the rebelde project in a book. “What book?” I asked. “The one written by Simon Garfield – the best-selling British author”, he replied.

Wasting no time, I went online and lo and behold, I actually found the book. To my shock and horror, not only was I mentioned, but Simon had wasted three and a half pages penning down our conversation. I even got myself on the top of the index: Hacko, followed by Harrison (George, the watchmaker), Hermes, Hillary (Sir Edmund) and Hitler (yeah, that one).

Of course, I could not bring myself to pay the full retail price of GBP 16.99, so I found a ‘used copy in good condition', for just US $4. I’m not going to spoil your enjoyment of what is said, but I would recommend that you do the same. The book is definitely worth a read.

Timekeepers is a vivid exploration of the ways we have perceived, contained and saved time over the last 250 years, narrated in Simon Garfield’s typically inventive and entertaining style. As managing time becomes one of the greatest challenges we face in our lives, this multi-layered history helps us understand it in a sparkling new light.


Timekeepers: How the World Became Obsessed With Time By Simon Garfield
ISBN: 978 178 211 3195

Planned obsolescence

***Planned obsolescence is when a product is deliberately designed to have a short life span. 

It is purposely and intentionally designed and manufactured to disintegrate, or to be non-repairable, or simply to under-perform.  At the same time, the manufacturer's marketing department will work hard to convince you that you should remain loyal to the brand and replace the obsolete product with the latest version.

There are countless examples of PO consumer products: from mobile phones to automobiles, computer operating systems, hardware, washing machines to printers – and watches.

The concept has been around for almost 100 years. It originated in Switzerland when the representatives from the world's largest lightbulb manufacturers, Philips, Osram, General Electric and others got together to form "Phoebus", a lighting cartel. Light bulb lifespans had, by 1924, increased to the point of crimping sales. The companies thus jointly agreed to reduce the life of lightbulbs to a 1,000-hour standard. Phoebus members marketed the shorter design life as an effort to produce brighter and more energy-efficient bulbs. However, the only significant technical innovation in the new bulbs was a steep drop in the operating life.

The other form of planned obsolescence is to design a product which is impossible to repair, or when the repair costs are deliberately too high. Turning a traditionally durable product into a throw-away, single-use one is the ultimate in planned obsolescence. It is well documented and researched that some manufacturers deliberately make the serviceman's job difficult, discouraging any attempt of repair. For example - the main bearing of the front-loading washing machine is integrated in the frame and almost impossible to replace. Another example - mass-produced watches have often the entire case factory-sealed.
"Suicide hands" is a term coined by watchmakers frustrated by inferior, self-destructive watch hands fitted on expensive watches.


The creativity of planned obsolescence is limitless: products are fitted with special screws, batteries or seals, or would require very specific tools and diagnostic equipment to be serviced. And surely, as a subscriber to my newsletter, you are well familiar with the outright restriction on supply of spare parts in the watch industry. Not to mention sophisticated take-overs and acquisition of independent watch parts manufacturers with the sole intention to limit the competitor’s access to strategic parts.

The ultimate victim of planned obsolescence is the consumers, forced to replace products which, if designed 'properly' in the first place, could easily last for decades.  Not to mention the economic loss to society and environmental pollution.


In 2015, as part of a larger movement against planned obsolescence across the European Union, France passed legislation requiring that appliance manufacturers and vendors declare the intended product lifespans, and to inform consumers how long spare parts would be produced for any given product. From 2016, appliance manufacturers are required to repair or replace, free of charge, any defective product within two years from its original purchase date. Hardly a victory in my book, but at least it is an attempt to curb planned obsolescence to a degree.

In Sweden, legislation has just been proposed which would cut tax on the repairs of bikes, clothes and shoes. Swedes would also be able to claim half the labour cost of appliance repairs (refrigerators, washing machines and other white goods) from their income tax.


Three years ago, before even the first rebelde was design or assembled, we announced the core philosophy behind the watch: we are going to be known as watchmakers who will offer a robust, reliable and repairable watch. Today, those three core values remain as important as ever. My goal is to be known as the maker of "planned rebirth".

The idea is simple: instead of limiting its lifespan, we intend to keep your rebelde keeping time as long as possible.

The action plan will require a long term commitment and will be based on following:

- unrestricted and unlimited availability of rebelde spare parts
- transfer of skills and knowledge to young watchmakers in areas of design, assembly and servicing
- continuing with design of models which will have interchangeable components. For example, each and every rebelde model (steel/titanium/gold) uses same winding stem, gear train, escapement and main spring. The middle case of Pilots and Control Tower models are identical, and so is the sapphire crystal and case back, etc.).
- ability to become a self-sufficient watch component in-house manufacturer, minimizing the reliance on other parts suppliers.

While the Swiss Phoebus will forever remain a case study of corporate greed and planned obsolescence, I honestly believe that one day, rebelde's "planned rebirth" product design model will be studied as an example of good design philosophy.
 
Your rebelde is here to stay, never to become obsolete. If you share our philosophy then we welcome your business.

TiA 48/50 - $3,000 - available for immediate delivery

TiB 08/75 - $3,000 - available for immediate delivery

Happy collecting,
Nick

Book Review: Longitude, By Dava Sobel

***From Apprentice Corner: Book Review


Longitude: The True Story of a Lone Genius Who Solved the Greatest Scientific Problem of His Time, By Dava Sobel

Longitude, written by Dava Sobel, tells the story of John Harrison, an inventor of the highest magnitude who spent over 40 years feverishly devoted to solving the greatest scientific problem of his time.

The book has been adapted into a TV series, won the British Book of the Year in 1997, as well as many other awards. So much praise has been heaped on this book that I needn’t add to the chorus, but I feel it necessary to give the book a brief introduction for those that might not have heard of it.

In the days long before GPS, sailors used a technique known as ‘dead reckoning’ to figure out their position, wherein sailors would calculate their position at sea using a known previous position and advancing that position based on estimated speed and direction. With wind, tides, imperfect measuring instruments and a whole range of other variables affecting the calculation, what could possibly go wrong?

A lot did, and often. Even after improvements in celestial methods that helped determine longitude, the problem persisted. The most accurate lunar tables still had errors (errors which compounded based on your position on Earth) and they relied on cooperative weather to be of any use at all. One degree of longitude equals approximately 111 kilometres; the slightest error in calculation meant the difference between running aground or perhaps never seeing land again!

The costs to the seafaring nations were enormous. Precious cargo and thousands of lives were lost. The British, French and Spanish governments offered enormous rewards for any one person able to resolve the problem, but most laboured in vain. Many of the greatest clockmakers and scientists ranging from Galileo to Edmond Halley gave it a shot. Isaac Newton implied that the dilemma was unlikely to be resolved by mechanical means. The fact that one man was able to satisfactorily resolve the problem with his incredible marine chronometer is hard to fathom.

The trials and tribulations of John Harrison, the competing designs and the plots of the sailors that so desperately needed a resolution to the problem are beautifully documented in Longitude - Dava Sobel is one of the finest science writers on the planet. I won’t comment too much on her extraordinary science writing ability but suffice to say that you won’t be left perplexed by any concepts at any point and will be enthralled throughout.

Of particular relevance, the Australian National Maritime Museum in Sydney has an exhibition on now titled Ships, Clocks and Stars,featuring many navigational instruments used back in the day, replicas of John Harrison’s early clocks and his original H-4 watch - the very watch that practically solved the problem once and for all. The exhibition finishes on the 30th of October so you’d best get in quick!
www.anmm.gov.au/Whats-On/Exhibitions/On-Now/Ships-Clocks-Stars

Hearth of Swiss Horology

***Helvetia, here we come! 

On Sunday afternoon we crossed the German-Swiss border near Schaffhaussen, the home town of IWC.

The wide, no-speed limit German autobahns were behind us, and the narrow country roads of Jura led us slowly to Zurich then further south to La Chaux-de-Fonds, the hearth of Swiss horology. We were on the mission: to visit three second-hand precision machinery dealers who specialize in watchmaking.

Before I go any further: while Switzerland and Germany are neighbours and while German is one of 3 languages officially spoken in Switzerland, there is a huge distinction between the two countries and their citizens.  I am not going to sugar coat it:  I like dealing with Germans, and I absolutely despise the ever-present Swiss corporate arrogance. The Swiss simply lack the humbleness of the Japanese, the flamboyance of southerners, the openness and warmth of eastern Europeans, the American loudness, the curiosity of Scandinavians or, dare I say it, the quirky, self-mocking English sophistication. They cannot be impressed, bought or excited. Swiss don't smile.

Doing business with the Swiss is never a mutually beneficial – from the moment you step on their soil, it is painfully obvious that your presence will be only tolerated for as long as you are happy to pay ridiculously overinflated prices.  And their cuisine just sucks: too greasy, too heavy.

Luckily, the small Swiss second-hand dealers are refreshingly different from the large corporations so despite my prejudice, and despite the fact that most of them only speak French, we do get along well.  But the truth is simple: like it or not, La Chaux-de-Fonds is the epicentre of the world of watchmaking and if you are to buy a precision second-hand tool, this is the place to look for one.

When watch corporations acquire new production lines, the old equipment is on-sold to second hand dealers. The business is still done in secrecy, strictly guarded from newcomers, conducted by third, fifth or seventh generation of family members.  In a city of 35,000 where 20 percent of the population directly work in the watch industry, everyone knows everyone. In just a couple of hours, we've heard all the current gossip: who is hiring and who is firing, who is expanding the manufacturing capacity and who is selling the equipment due to overstock of watches. In a radius of just 5 kilometres, we'd seen the production facilities of 20 brand names. What amazed us, once again, is how closely those 'brands' are interconnected and how closely they rely on each other and their suppliers.

What we call 'in-house' production is more (as Josh said) an intricate web of incestuous relations. Many own shares in each other’s businesses, they sit on each other’s boards, use the same highly specialized component makers, the same raw material and operate the same parts production machines.  And when appropriate, are happy to stab each other in the back.

We saw machines which were 'still hot' just pulled out of production and those that had been sitting in storerooms for 50 years, never to be sold.  And the variety and quantity of stock on offer is simply amazing.  "This one came from xxxx and here is the one from xxxx factory. Would you like the workbench from xxxx? We just got delivery of eight." We saw a row of 50 gear cutters (hobbing machines) and another row of 50 cam operated lathes. This was the very equipment used to manufacture parts for your 1970s Omega Speedmaster or Rolex Submariner, Longines and Zenith. 

Unfortunately, most of them were highly customized, were missing crucial tools or simply were too complex to operate. Or just too heavy or way overpriced. But all of them are still amazingly precise, and when restored would outperform modern CNC machines. Swiss don't throw anything away and you can get anything you want, if you have enough money.

After a couple of days of roaming and seeing thousands of machines, we'd got a fairly good idea what we could use in rebelde production. But we were not in hurry to part with our hard earned cash. We were there to build relationships and make ourselves known as future customers.  More detailed report will follow, including some very exciting photos!

On Tuesday, we decided to visit a company specialising in a very specific area of watchmaking. As much as I would love to, I cannot disclose their name. Let me just say that they produce components so crucial to a watch that even the most prestigious brands are dependent on their supply. Without them there will be no Swiss watches. Now, I have to admit that I was not aware of their importance. If I was, I probably wouldn't have bothered to call. But we were 'in the area' and they actually sell a machine which produces that crucial component, so we had nothing to lose.

The moment we arrived in front of their building I knew that we had actually made a mistake.  But it was too late to turn back - so we bravely stepped in.

Even today, 24 hours later, I still can't figure out what really happened.
The recollection of events is so incoherent - like the recollection of a boxer who was knocked out in the first blow, waking up the next day in hospital.

First, we watched the 20 minute corporate video, probably directed by some Hollywood director. The message was simple: our host was in the watch business before Rolex and before Lange and before anyone else.   The business is privately owned, which is cool, but as the only supplier of the most critical components, they enjoy their own status so much that no amount of money can buy their independence. Yes, they do have a machine to sell to us (although they never sold one to Australia or Africa) but they really don't see the reason why we would want one.

When I was finally allowed to speak, I pointed out that we'd done our homework. We know that we can afford their machine - while we do come from Australia, the money is not an issue. Quickly Josh took over: he clearly explained that we understand their manufacturing technology and that we don't think it is rocket science. We can be trained and we are looking for a partnership.  While the machine itself is impressive, both of us confidently concluded that the machine will be outdated eventually, and that we will be investing in a 'niche of the niche' so the resale value of their machine is zero - and that is zero in any currency.

Our host agreed. Fine, if we insist, the machine can be ours for $300,000. However, the contract of sale will include a clause which stipulates that we will be trained to operate the machine but we will not be trained to actually make components; the machine itself will be supplied with no tools, therefore it would be our job to work out who the tool suppliers are and which material to use to produce components.  Roughly, if we are clever enough, in 20 years we'll be making that critical component 'down under'.

In my books, this sounded like an insult. The time came to shake hands and thank our host for the opportunity to learn more about corporate Swissness. To keep the record straight: on the way out we got two Swiss chocolates wrapped in company colours. But the aftertaste is still bitter.

The good news is that a number of small independent watchmakers in both Germany and Switzerland are working hard and investing heavily in watchmaking technology.  In 5 or 10 years from now, there will be other players in the field. No one stays on the top forever, and often an underdog comes with a revolutionary or cost effective solution and solves the 'unsolvable' problem.

rebelde is not in a hurry, and right now, we already have so much on our plate to keep us busy for years to come. However, after this meeting, we clearly defined our priorities: we will be doing business only with suppliers who see us as equal and who understand and respect our mission. rebelde will bow down to none!

[to be continued...]

Book Review: ‘PloProf’ by Jon Wallis

***From Apprentice Corner

This week I’m reviewing ‘PloProf’, a book about the Omega Seamaster Professional 600 written by Jon Wallis, custodian of the deskdivers.com horological site and contributor to the Omega Lifetime magazine.


I should say from the onset that I’d never really given this watch the time of day it deserves. I’d seen it before, of course, but in my arrogance I’d simply dismissed it as something of a novelty hidden in the ranks of Omega’s diverse Seamaster range.


I usually choose all the books I review, but it was Nick who recommended this one, perhaps wanting to shake things up a bit. I hesitantly agreed, not quite knowing if I’d be able to focus on this book for more than a minute or two - getting through a book with over 150 pages solely devoted to one watch seemed like an exercise in tedium.


By chance alone, the very first page that I opened the book onto just happened to feature one of Omega’s advertising pieces that accompanied the watch when it first launched. It read:  “It may not look pretty on the surface, but deep down it’s beautiful”. As I was to find out, this description is an apt one.

Launched over 40 years ago, the PloProf was developed in tandem by French offshore salvage company COMEX and the legendary explorer, conservationist, filmmaker, innovator, photographer, author, naval officer, oceanographer and hero of mine (phew!) Jacques Cousteau.


Omega had already been to the moon and back, but the underwater world - an environment far more hostile to timepieces - remained to be conquered. Divers of the day had their own specific needs and no watch existed that was up to the task. The PloProf was born purely out of necessity. The book explores, in great detail, these requirements and how they helped to form the PloProf.


That it was made for a very specific purpose should be immediately clear. The PloProf is perhaps the most distinguishable watch of all - it simply can’t be mistaken for any other. Its features immediately capture the eye, but require explanation. Justification, even.


When I first saw the red button I thought it was a helium escape valve, similar to those found on the Rolex Sea-Dwellers and Omega Seamasters. In fact, when pressed it unlocks the bezel, allowing it to be rotated. It turns out the watch has no need for an escape valve - its integrated insulation easily able to protect the watch from harm when plunging into and coming back from the deep dark depths. This, along with the bright orange minute hand, dial colour, strap, winding crown and other features are all explained and rationalised by the author. There are even disassembly guides for any watchmaker brave enough to try and pull it apart.

On paper, the PloProf should be an absolute winner: it’s a watch with a unique shape, great movement, incredibly tough, limited in quantity and it has a story behind that’s hard to beat. It still, however, remains a watch possessed by a brave few - those that are actually divers. Anyone confident enough to take a plunge to such depths surely pays no mind to others, but it hasn’t yet found a strong following ashore. Many people, like my former self, cast it off as an oddity. It wasn’t made to be worn above the surface, they say. But who’s to say it can’t be? If you’ve got a wrist large enough to wear it comfortably, the author of ‘PloProf’ with his enthusiastic and persuasive manner, has convinced me that it’s a very fine choice.


The book is lavishly illustrated and covers almost every conceivable topic related to the watch. 

Even if you never intend on owning a PloProf, a true watch fanatic might still find value in this book. The story of its development, the competing designs and the impact it had on the watch world is one that would surely interest them. It’s a watch worth knowing about.