Built to last

 

"Explore the world, but make sure to return home," is an old Slavic saying. Yet 'returning home'—even for a short holiday stop-over—can be a weird experience. After 30 years, streets look smaller, and familiar faces become harder to find.  What does remain the same is the perpetual cycle of seasons, where spring is always followed by summer and autumn inevitably leads into winter. My home town was established 2400 years ago by the mighty Romans. But they were not the first settlers. 7000 years ago, the Balkan peninsula was settled by people we know very little about: the Vincans - the most technologically-advanced civilisation in the world at that time. Not only did they have their own alphabet, but Vincans possessed advanced metallurgical skills almost one thousand years before tribes from the Middle Eastern cradle of civilisation ever did. The list of tribes who occupied the Balkans over the next five thousand years is a mile long, but it  was the Romans who turned a small crossroads settlement on the banks of the river Sava into a mighty imperial city. They named it Sirmium. The city was grandiose and important; a birth place of no less than ten Roman emperors! Surmium lasted for almost 900 years, until it was destroyed by Avars, but that is another story altogether.  The other day, Josh and I visited the town museum. We were the only visitors on a hot summer's day. "Make sure you check out the sundial clock," said the museum Kustos, who also happened to be a childhood friend and neighbour of mine.   Two hours later, we were still trying to locate the Roman sundial amongst rows of amphoras, sarcophagus, pottery, mosaic flooring, frescos and literally thousands of statues in the museum garden. Eventually, defeated, we returned to the museum-keeper for help. "How could you have missed it? It's right here, in front of your nose!" she laughed, pointing at a massive statue of Atlas, sculptured in white marble.

In truth, the clock dial was hidden behind the statue. The iron gnomon was missing, but the main plate was still crisp. "If you want to make a permanent mark in time, engrave your name in stone," said Josh. So true. The composition was both complex and detailed: at the front, Atlas was holding the dial, while Hercules and Iphicles were on the reverse, on either side of the pointer. It was indeed a grandiose timepiece sculptured to be placed in front of the mansion of a Roman emperor!  We were told that the sundial clock dates from the first century. It was amazingly well-preserved for a 2000-year-old timepiece! The mystery of who commissioned the sculpture, who crafted it and for whom it was for will forever remain a mystery. Yet, for the two of us, as well as countless generations to come, this Roman timepiece will remain an inspiring work of beauty.  A truly timeless piece.  "So it is beauty that won over accuracy," I proclaimed. "Yes, this time that seems to be the case," replied Josh.