Getting it right the Australian way

To fellow Watchmakers of Australia,

To fellow Watch enthusiasts,

We will win.

We will win because we fight the battle in which "getting it right" is the only acceptable outcome.

As the newly appointed Secretary of the newly formed association, it is my duty to assure you that Professional Watchmakers of Australia is on your side.

The 'getting it right' may take time and effort. But you already know that.

As a professional watchmaker who makes an honest living doing what you do best - repairing watches - you also know that no person, no corporation or  privately owned entity has the right to restrict your trade. No person, no corporation and no privately owned entity has any right to push you out of business, to prevent you from earning income, to limit you in any way or to impose restrictions which are not in your interest or in the interest of your customers.

As a professional watchmaker, you are responsible to the Australian Government who gave you the right to practice your trade. And you are responsible to your  customers who trust your expertise. No one else.

As a watch enthusiast and an owner of a fine timepiece, you know that no person, no corporation or privately owned entity has the right to restrict your enjoyment or freedom of choice.

You own the watch. It is your property.

Therefore, no person, no corporation or privately owned entity has the right to force you into any servicing agreement which is not approved or authorized by you, the owner. Nor to impose upon you, any repair or servicing arrangement which is not beneficial to YOU. Nor to restrict the supply of any spare part, bracelet - or even a simple watch bracelet link - that you request. Nor to limit your choice of repairer, confiscate your property or impose some imaginary standard of repair which you really don't need or are forced to accept.

The watch is yours. The freedom of choice is yours.

Don't let your consumer's rights slip away just because like us, you love your timepiece.

The only reason why we are forced to take this bold stand is for the unfortunate reason that some individuals, corporation and privately owned entities believe that Australians either don't care or don't understand the issue.

The truth is quite the opposite- we do care and we are ready to take a stand.

And yes, with your support we will win.

Nicholas Hacko, Watchmaker

Secretary of and Spokesperson for

Professional Watchmakers of Australia, Inc

Watchmakers: please join the Association and offer your support to PWA now.

http://save-the-time.org/pwa/PWAMembershipForm.doc

Watch enthusiasts: please go to www.Save-the-Time.org

and sign your petition to ACCC.

Watch the video and tell your friends.

Australian watchmakers vs Rolex (The Australian news article)

'Rolex insists parts ban is about quality, not monopoly'
 (Link to the full article here)

The Australian
by Natasha Bita
28th May 2012

Smart watches vs. dumb watch manufacturers: the battle for the most precious piece of real-estate in the world!

You don't need to be a chart analyst to work this one out. Yes, it is a tragedy. I just hope you have not invested in this company or its products. Because if you have, you've just lost 94% of your investment. Gone forever!

The company we are talking about here is Nokia, the Rolls Royce of mobile phone manufacturing fame. A company which still builds high quality phones, well engineered, sold at very reasonable price. Now, it is fair to say that Nokia is still the world's second largest mobile phone manufacturer with annual revenue of 38 billion dollars. But Nokia's share market is shrinking and as such, the share value has dropped through the floor. For one reason: Nokia is no longer a cool phone maker. Or more precisely, Nokia makes dumb phones.
In just couple years time, the phone market has changed dramatically. We have entered the era of smart phones: phones which no longer look like mobile phones but are capable of almost anything your personal computer is. When we think smart and cool, we now think iPhone or Samsung.
Don't take my word for it: on your way home tonight, look around you. I bet you won't find ONE Nokia user playing with his phone. And this is precisely why Nokia shares are almost worthless.
Now let me give you a bit more of bad news.
As we speak today, right now, we are in the middle of another shift in technology:
the smart phones are evolving to the next level: they are becoming smart watches!
Here are the two major players in the smart watch industry: Pebble which is "compatible" with Apple's iPhone and Android and Sony, compatible with Android phones. No, these are not prototypes: Pebble will soon be available in a store near you, and Sony is already available - for as little as $149! Sony's resemblance to the iPhone is just amazingly familiar.

While smart watches are still dependent on your main mobile phone device (via Bluetooth connectivity) these watches allow you not just to tell the time, but to check your messages, twitter, control music devices - and much more.
Now if you think this is cool, let me just state the obvious: this is just the beginning - on an evolutionary scale, we are talking about amoeba. Give them a year or two - and watch this space!
If you are not impressed, then here is a brief 'technical' introduction about this exciting technology.
For example, while the 3 watches on the left look like 3 different models, it is really the same watch. They look different because they run different applications. In other words, your smart watch is no longer just a piece of hardware, but anything you want it to be, controlled by a software application.
And here is another crucial bit: the software applications are not controlled - or even supported - by hardware manufacturers, nor in the case of SONY, not even by the operating system because the source code is FREELY available to all developers and users! Which means the smart watch will continue to get smarter and offer you even more functions and capabilities.
Now, if I am a Swiss watch manufacturer, I would be in a state of perpetual panic. Compared with what is coming, the watch war between the Japanese and Swiss fought in the 1970/80s is equivalent to that of WW1. The next war is going to be a full blast nuclear Star war!
While in the 80s Swiss manufacturers had all the hardware and know-how to at least produce decent watches and consequently offer some resistance to the Japanese, in 2012 the Swiss watch industry is armed with stone age technology, hoping to fight the Star War.
And here is my key point: the battle is not about the technology, or price, or even performance, this battle is all about that precious "piece of real-estate" - your wrist!
The smart technology is no longer happy to place your gadget in your bag, or back pocket. The smart watch wants to be placed on one and only one spot it deserves - YOUR WRIST. This is what the battle is all about.
You may have a bunch of watches, but you can wear only one at the time.
And you need not be clairvoyant to figure out which one will take that well deserved spot: a smart one, which represents free spirit, creativity, ever changing design, a watch which talks to you, and represents the new age of NO RESTRICTION; or the other one, which is a product of Swiss monopoly whose main concern is how to stop everyone else from entering the market (including fellow Swiss makers), restrictive to the extreme and arrogantly treat the most loyal supporters as ignorant, and whose only business model is this: "if it does not sell, double the price." A watch made by a company which refuses to sell you a spare part, spare bracelet, even a spare link! A maker so arrogant who can afford to upset even the most loyal customers and brand promoters.
Here is my message to the Swiss watch industry: myopic, narrow minded and restrictive policies are not going to work this time. Unless you change and open FAST, you will be out of the game. No one is too big to fall! (Ask Nokia!)
The 'luxury watch market' is no different from any other luxury goods market.
Customers buy luxury watches for many reasons, and value for money, ability to service watch at a reasonable cost and durability of the product are core reasons. Those who can afford your watches are not naive nor ignorant: they will only 'invest' in your watches if your watches are perceived as worth investing in.
There is only one way out, and if you don't want to take my advice, then watch this video: it is about the Porsche car manufacturer and the way Porsche treats its customers and their products.
It is about value for money, about respect and vision.
Mark every word and learn from those who got it right.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmG9LwzyS2A

Preserving our dignity

Part 1.

I love my Holden Barina.

I got it new in 1997. Actually we had bought it just a few days after my wife brought home our baby boy from the hospital. On weekends, I would fit in a baby seat and we would drive along the coast. Monday to Friday, the Barina was used for business - if you lowered the front passenger seat and folded over back seat, you can fit in a full-length English long case clock!

Most customers would just shake their heads in disbelief. Yes, you can say I am sentimentally attached to my little Holden. Almost 15 years later, it still goes like a rocket.

Oh yes, it is soon due for new brake pads. The search for new pads started with a visit to the Holden website. From there I got the phone number of an authorized Holden parts supplier.

"Hi - do you still supply brake pads for a 1997 Barina manufactured in Spain? " "Sure do. In stock. $78". "$78 a piece?" "No, $78 for a set of four." "Fantastic. But just to make it clear, I am not in the car business..." "Sorry?" asked the salesman- "I said, I am not a car mechanic. Would you still sell the parts to me? "We sell parts to anyone!" "And I guess you want my old pads returned to you, right?" "No mate, just chuck 'em in the rubbish bin (laughing)" "...and do you need my car rego plates, or my drivers license?" "No, just your VISA numbers. That's all." "Great. But for your information, I intend to take my car to my next door neighbour, he is going to install the pads..." "That's fine, good for you. Now, can I get your card details so we can get this sale under way?"

I also wanted to tell him that my next door neighbour is not a car mechanic either but he was not really up for a chat. Anyway, I got my pads the next day in the mail.

While on Holden's website I also learned that Holden is in partnership with a third-party spare parts supplier which offers a range of parts to suit their vintage models. ("Restoration Parts are often made from the original tooling and are as close to the originals as possible.")

I happily left Holden's website under the impression that Holden is a business that cares for their customers.

If you are a young couple expecting baby and looking for a car, go Holden like we did. Good car, good memories.

Part 2.

Some of my long time subscribers are well aware that I am very passionate about my hobby. I LOVE my radios. After a long day behind a bench or in front of a computer, sanity is restored the moment I put headphones on and flick the switch of trustworthy ICOM.

This morning, I received an email from a fellow radio nutter. "The latest model of ICOM transceivers is now coming with newly designed transmitter amplifier. They will be using the most advanced gold metallized N-channel MOS field-effect RF power transistor".

Wow, that was cool news indeed.

But then I got worried - I love to repair my own radios, and while I rarely need to replace output transistors, the question was, would I be able to obtain such a very special component if I ever needed one? ICOM is Japanese radio manufacturer and amateur radios are just a part of a large Corporation which also supplies equipment to military, marine and avio users including the US Marine corp! Surely they would be very protective of their latest technology?

I was wrong once again.

A visit to ICOM's web page revealed that I have nothing to worry about: The Japanese were more than happy to tell everyone that the latest power amplifying device actually comes from STMicroelectronics, an Italian-French company, and that the component number is STAC2942. Another quick search revealed that while this component was only manufactured a couple of years ago, it is readily available from wholesalers everywhere - for just $120. Or for $90 on eBay!

If I ever needed replacement - or a truck load of them - I would have no problems fixing my latest model Japanese radio.

Yes I love my radios, and I will remain loyal to my favourite Japanese brand because my brand respects me and my hobby.

Part 3.

This Monday I need to deliver two sets of news. Both bad.

Right in front of me, on my work bench, I have two watches belonging to customers, which have been sitting there for some time now. One is a lady's gold and steel watch, the other is a gent's diver's timepiece. The first one belongs to a lovely lady who has been my good customer for many years. Her watch needs a new circuit. A fifteen minute job which requires removing 4 screws and fitting a new battery. The second watch belongs to a guy whom I have never met, but was described as a massive gym junkie. Another easy job - his watch needs a new winding crown and a rubber seal.

So here I am, staring at two "dead" watches, trying to solve an unsolvable problem: How to repair them without spare parts? Yes, you guessed right - both watches are Swiss made and no, I have no access to those parts. Both watches are over 20 years old. Both customers left them with me in good faith, expecting a hassle free, straight forward repair.

Yet the only thing I can deliver on Monday is "Sorry I cannot help you."

I really hate those phone calls:

"Aren't you a watchmaker? So you don't know how to fix them? You don't have parts? Why? So now I have to waste my time once again coming to your shop to pick up my watch? Where do I take them now? How much is THAT going to cost me? Why does it take 3 month to do a 15-minute job? Why can't you do it? Why can't YOU get parts?...."

Quite frankly I am sick of explaining how little I can do without access to Swiss 'brand name' spare parts. It is painful and humiliating. It is frustrating. I am losing time, money and reputation. I am losing my best customers. it is as simple as that: once you say NO to a customer, that customer will never come back to you. There will be no referral, no 'job well done' feedback, no income.

As my 14 year old boy said: "It sucks to be you, dad! "

Yes, it sucks to be a watchmaker.

It sucks to be an Australian watchmaker who pays tax to the Australian Government yet is unable to fix a watch for an Australian customer because someone out there, in Switzerland, has taken full control over our lives.

And what sucks the most is that I cannot even name the brands which are depriving Australian watchmakers of their basic right to earn income - without being sued in AUSTRALIAN Court!

Part 4.

Apparently, the key reason why most Swiss brands refuse to sell watch parts to independent Australian watchmakers (and American, British, Norwegian Italian, French and every one else) is this:

We, the independents, are not capable of handling Swiss watches.
We are somehow inferior, uneducated and inexperienced.
We are also unwilling to invest in modern tools and equipment.
Or something along those lines.

15, 35 or 40 years of repairing Swiss watches is still not good enough. The fact that we can actually repair far more complex watches than the majority of what they sell is irrelevant.

The fact that most of us are European trained, second, third or fourth generation watchmakers is also irrelevant.

My grandfather is now 92 years old and he still repairs clocks and watches. He was a master Watchmaker before WW2. One vivid memory from my earliest childhood is a pile of watch crowns, metal bracelets, plexi glasses and other spare parts which he used to bring in suitcases from Switzerland from his parts buying trips.

Back in the 60s, 70s and even the 80s getting a spare part for Swiss watches was as simple as getting brake pads for a Holden. The Swiss brands needed us, and they needed us desperately to service their millions of watches.

The independent watchmakers were in business a long time before the Swiss even got into watches!

The reason why Australian independent watchmakers are cut out, pushed away and left to "starve to death" is this: Swiss corporate greed. We all know that.

So please, Swiss brands, let us preserve some of our dignity. Don't call us incompetent. Stop telling your customers that "taking your watch to an independent watchmaker is risky because they can't fix it."

The only reason why we are unable to repair your watches is because you REFUSE to supply parts. It's as simple as that. Not the other way around.

Quite frankly, a battery or circuit replacement in a Swiss watch is something we don't even consider as watchmaking. Even an overhaul on your "super duper" automatic movement is something we can do while blindfolded. It's kids stuff to us.

When a customer brings a watch to you with a broken balance staff, you replace the balance wheel completely. We replace the balance staff only. When the watch is rendered by you as 'beyond repair, no parts available' we get our 60 or 100 years old lathe and we turn the staff. We make one from a steel rod, by hand, the old fashioned way. When you run into a problem you cannot solve (on your own watch!) you replace the entire mechanism. Instead, we look for the problem - yes this is time consuming, but extremely satisfying - and we solve it. We get a kick out of repairing stuff you cannot or don't know how to repair!

And this is just a beginning. Some of our members, the independent watchmakers of Australia are capable of much more. They can restore even the most complex Swiss timepieces ever manufactured. They can manufacture parts which are completely missing, cut wheels and pinions. They are capable of restoring some of the most magnificent timepieces ever manufactured: English and French clocks, American railroad pocket watches, ship chronometers.

Do your watchmakers know how to make a detent for a chronometer escapement by hand? Have YOU ever tried to make one? How many of your "in house trained repairers," whose job is to swap a quartz movement, have even seen the fusee chain? How many of them can explain what the difference between the tick and tock sound is, what a poise error is or even the relationship between amplitude and timekeeping?

Or let me be just a touch more personal: how many of your AD (Authorized dealers whom you also call 'authorized service centers' for your brand when in reality they are just administrative operators) have even the simplest timing machine on premise? How many of those who you have allowed and authorized to sell $50,000 or $500,000 watches would have the slightest clue about what makes those watches tick?

Once again, you are trying to pull out that old trick of Swiss corporate mastery. You know so well that refusal to sell spare parts to independent repairers is in breach of European competition rules and US anti-trust law. Australian consumer law is no different. But it looks like you simply don't care.

Either way, our message is simple: don't ever call us - the Australian watchmakers - incompetent or incapable. Because you may find out that one day when we are all gone, the table will turn around and the watch owners, YOUR customers, will say: it sucks to be you.

Mail bag

Hi Nick,

A little while ago you wrote an article about losing a Rolex watch; always a painful experience. I thought I'd tell you about the Rolex my father had for a number of years until it was lost (well, stolen is probably more accurate).

My father enlisted in the Australian army (2/5th Field Regiment) in 1940. Just prior to sailing off to the Middle East on the Queen Mary, his mother gave him a Rolex watch. I'm not sure of the model but I believe it was a gold Rolex. Having an accurate timepiece was very helpful during the war (not much point having an attack commence at 0500 if your watch is running slow!) and my grandmother thought it would not only assist him but it would be a bond with his mother whilst he was on active service.

My grandmother was not a rich woman and the Rolex had been a very large investment for her. Accordingly my father took great care of it and was also very attached to it.

Posted to Syria as a forward observation officer in the artillery (25 pounders), my father was soon heavily involved in fighting the French Foreign Legion who were aligned with the Vichy government. As a forward observation officer, my father had to be at the front line and sometimes he had to advance past the line so he could spot for the artillery.

At Merdjayoun on the 19 June 1941 the Australian infantry attack was checked after suffering heavy casualties from an enemy counter attack with tanks. Enemy machine gun fire swept the ground but my father with another artillery officer and a small party pushed on ahead of the infantry and established an outpost in a house. The telephone line was cut and he went out and mended this line under machine gun fire and returned to the house, from which enemy posts and a battery were successfully engaged.

The enemy then attacked this outpost with infantry and tanks, killing the Bren gunner and mortally wounding the other officer. My father and another manned the anti-tank rifle and Bren gun and fought back driving the enemy infantry away. The tanks continued the attack, but under constant fire from the anti-tank rifle and Bren gun eventually withdrew. My father then personally supervised the evacuation of the wounded members of his party.

What is not mentioned in this description (which is paraphrased from my father's citation) is that when the enemy attacked the hut, my father had taken his Rolex off (I suspect he didn't want to have it scratched during the attack) and that when he retreated (carrying a mortally wounded officer on his back) he forget to take the Rolex with him. When he got back to the front line he realised he'd left his watch behind!

What happened next was an example of my father's determination and courage; he went back and got it! Not a simple task as this entailed crossing the front line once again and crawling around enemy positions in the twilight. But he got his watch back! For the remainder of his war service the watch remained firmly on his wrist.

The watch was later replaced as his day to day watch in the late 1950s by a gold Omega constellation. In 1966 my father moved from the Netherlands back to Australia and all our possessions were shipped out. The Rolex was put in a suitcase and taken as excess baggage. The very sad thing is that the suitcase vanished en route to Sydney (I suspect it was stolen) and much to my father's great regret the Rolex was never seen again! For your information, my father was Roden Cutler.

Much is known about him but I doubt very few people know about the watch incident!

Yours,
Mark Cutler

---

Dear Mark,

Thank you kindly for sharing such an exciting story. For all of us who are 'adopted Australians' and fellow overseas subscribers, I recommend further research on the exciting life of your dad.

Sir Roden Cutler, VC, AK, KCMG, KCVO, CBE (24 May 1916 – 22 February 2002) was an Australian diplomat, the longest serving Governor of New South Wales and a recipient of the Victoria Cross, the highest award for gallantry "in the face of the enemy" that can be awarded to British and Commonwealth armed forces.

If Sir Roden was still around, I am sure two of us will be on the next plane to Geneva to serve our Letter of Demand :-)

The most amazing detail to me (apart form the fact that he battled a shark to save a swimmer at Manly beach) is that he was the Australian High Commissioner to New Zealand at the age of 29!

Beat that!

-Nick

Tough times ahead for collectors of vintage Rolex watches

As most of you know, I am not really a watch collector per se. However I do have a few vintage 'keepers', mainly of Rolex Sports fame. There is something special about old Submariners and Explorers - not to mention the always popular Daytonas from the seventies. Over the years I have collected a few of those and this is something I am really proud of.

However, I am worried that the next few years are going to be extremely challenging for the Rolex vintage watch market.

A brief introduction to those of you who are not really into vintage stuff: the value of any vintage timepiece is largely determined by two factors: originality and overall condition.

Watches which contain a mix of original and non-original components are called 'frankenstein' watches. Despite their good appearance, these watches have very low collectors' value.

On the contrary, all-original watches with good provenance are highly sought after and fetch premium price.

And here is the key point: the single most important component is the watch dial.

The watch dial alone could make thousands of dollars of difference! For example, if you are to 'convert' a standard vintage Submariner into a more sought after 'red line' Sub, you can easily make a profit of $ 2,000. If you are smart enough (and this is really an easy job for a scammer) you can create even more exotic models like military, COMEX, double red Seadweller - pieces worth tens of thousands of dollars.

Yes, it is as simple as that.

Now this is not a new issue. But what is new is the shocking state of affairs where in conversion dials, hands and components are now not just readily available from eBay and online, but the variety of choices has exploded - and the prices of fake dials are getting lower and lower.

Here is just one example from the webpage I've bumped into yesterday morning

By the way, apart form fake dials for sale, this entrepreneur will supply other components which would allow you to convert an ordinary model into a sports model.

Below is a 'testimonial' picture - form the same website- from a happy customer who converted his Air king into an Explorer I.

I chose not to attach images of other models, like a double red Seadweller, which are just too painfully graphic for public display.

Bottom line: the vintage Rolex market has been polluted to such a level that telling fake from real is now almost impossible for even advance collectors. As a consequence, prices of vintage Rolex watches will drop significantly. It is no longer safe to buy any exotic Rolex model without thorough inspection which basically means pulling the entire watch apart and checking every individual casing / dial component. Something only a watchmaker can do.

I have never bought a vintage Rolex watch from eBay - as a watchmaker, I know too well that most likely I will end up with either a frankenstein watch or an original that's a worn out piece in need of expensive restoration.

But thanks to current developments, I am now not even interested in privately owned vintage Rolex stock which was traded in the past 20 years. Which means if you have bought a vintage Submariner 5 years ago and you wish to sell it, I am not your man. Take it to your supplier, or put it back on eBay. I don't want it.

I am not sugar coating this issue. Passing on a put-together watch is CRIMINAL activity. And I invite my fellow dealers to REJECT any vintage Rolex stock which has been recently traded.

To preserve integrity and reputation, we need to draw the line somewhere.

For me, that means no trading in vintage Rolex watches, except for pieces which I can personally guarantee as 100% genuine. Pieces like "one owner's watch" - watches acquired from ORIGINAL owners who bought them new back in the 60s/70s. Watches with dubious provenance must be rejected straight away. Yes, some dealers and collectors would do anything to make a quick profit, but there are still a few 'good ones' out there who have the expertise to tell the difference.

The only permanent solution to this problem - a solution which will restore the collector's confidence and stop the erosion of watch value - lies in the hands of Rolex Switzerland.

If Rolex Switzerland decides to set up a validation and verification service for their own vintage watches, I would be the first one to send my entire PRIVATE collection for validation. I would be more than happy to pay whatever it costs to have my watches inspected and verified to be 100% genuine. Such a certificate will significantly increase the value of my vintage Rolex watches. And your too.

Regrettably, this service is not available. While few other reputable Swiss companies like Patek Philppe for example do offer validation service for any watch they've ever sold, Rolex is still not interested in providing a similar service.

We can only hope that this situation will change soon, for the common benefit to the Rolex brand, watch dealers and watch collectors.

That would be a day to celebrate!

Until that day, the only qualified and authoritative expert in the area is your independent watchmaker - the guy who has been handling, repairing and restoring Rolex watches for decades; who know them 'inside out'.

If you have opinion on subject, feel free to write.

Of course, as always, this newsletter is open to Rolex for official comment. We would love to hear from Rolex directly because this is a burning issue which can no longer be ignored.

I have emailed a link of the shoddy website to Rolex for their investigation. Hopefully, the site will be shut down soon.

NOTE: the above article is in relation to VINTAGE SPORTS ROLEX models only. These watches were sold in 1950-1970.

Watches sold from 1980s-today are not considered vintage or collectable. As such, these watches are not significantly affected by the proliferation of fake VINTAGE spare parts. Modern fakes are easy to detect!

As always, deal with people you can trust.

For more Rolex buying tips, see
"TEN THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A ROLEX WATCH"

Save The Time in the Sydney Morning Herald

Last week Alexandra Smith from the Sydney Morning Herald came to interview us and another Sydney resident watchmaker Max Schweizer, regarding the restrictions on spare parts set by the major Swiss Watch brands. Here's the result in Saturday's paper. Click here to read online.

Save The Time on WatchPro.com

More press this week as specialist Watch blog Watch Pro writes about Save the Time's current progress.

A big thank you to Kathryn Bishop and the Watch Pro team for helping to spread the word!

Read the article here.

Save The Time Gets Press!!

The Save the Time campaign was featured on the online edition of Jeweller Magazine this week! This is great exposure for Save The Time and we’re thankful to Editor Coleby Nicholson and the rest of his team for their support!

Read the article here.

To Buy Art or To Buy a Chicken Foot?

A couple years ago I decided to ‘get into Australian art’.
In this case, 'getting into it' meant acquiring anything I 

could get my hands on for $2,000 or less.
Yes it was a mid-life crisis venture into world of art, 

perhaps you’ve have had one too?

Now, even if you are not into art, you would imagine 

that my budget was barely enough to buy a decent frame,

let alone a charcoal by Dickerson.

But as they say, the fun is in education, 

not in acquisition, so I had nothing to lose.

I did my research: If I was to invest in a piece of Australian art, 

I wanted it to be a Blackman.
The innocence and naivety of an Alice in Wonderland opus 

- all those vibrant colours, surreal characters and seriously comic scenes 

was exactly what I was looking for.

Finding a dealer willing to ‘talk Blackman’ was easy.
Despite clearly indicating my modest budget, 
I was greeted like a Russian tycoon.
"Three to four hundred thousand will buy you a really nice Rabbit",

said the enthusiastic dealer,
"Which is really just a short change of what a large Blackman would fetch on today's market". The level of enthusiasm dropped significantly after he learned that I also deal for a living:
"Watches? Hmm... Do people still buy watches?"

Fifteen minutes later, we finally started talking business 

- a sixth limited edition signed print for just $8,500 

was the bare minimum he would allow me to have. 

When he realized that I wouldn't budge a cent more than $2K 

the monologue turned into an outburst of theatrical energy:
"You cannot get a Blackman for $2K! There is no such thing as cheap art. 

You have unrealistic expectation and quite frankly you are just wasting my time!"

He then disappeared behind the pile of prints, unframed canvases and boxes full of something that even my untrained eye could recognize as art.
"Here you go, you stubborn man”, he puffed and fumed, 
“the best I can do for you is this,

and I won't take a cent less than $2,500 for it”.

This was a drawing of a foot, the size of large postage stamp.
A black ink drawing depicting a foot of a chicken or a duck.
There was no colour, no action, no composition, no Alice and no Wonderland -
just a wiggly line. 

But yes, this was a Blackman, and yes, even owning a drawing of
a chicken or duck foot would still make me a connoisseur of Australian Art.

Funnily enough, some watch manufacturers are just like famous artists.

They are more than happy to put their name onto anything that tells the time,
and charge accordingly, of course. An ‘entry level top end brand maker's watch’ could be in reality just an ordinarily time piece in a paper-thin case.
When you are buying a Blackman chicken's foot, 
you are told that this is the way to enter into brand 
and perhaps, if you work really hard and save even harder, 
then maybe one day you may be able to own the brands ‘master piece’ 

- a calendar and power reserve model which is reserved for 'clients' only. Impressive indeed.

And this is precisely why I love A. Lange & Söhne.

With Lange there is no such thing as ‘entry level’ 
because each and every model manufactured is a real and complete masterpiece, regardless of mechanical complication.

Even a 'time only' Lange is as exciting as a 3m wide Alice in Wonderland 

- a firework of colours, action and intriguing beauty. 

Each Lange is an example of perfection in watchmaking artistry,
offering the highest level of unity between design, mechanical micro engineering and quality
you can see, touch, feel and hear.

Yes, life is too short for chicken foot.

Freebies From SAVE-THE-TIME.ORG

The ‘series of unfortunate events’ that have occurred over the past couple of weeks turned out to be of great benefit and, for me, it was a rare opportunity to step out of ‘business as usual’.

The phone has been running off the hook (and the fax too!). It was so nice to talk to fellow watchmakers from almost every corner of Australia. Support from New Zealand however was both totally overwhelming and unexpected; once again it has shown that our Kiwi colleagues are facing the same problems. We also received a tremendous amount of email support from the US, Canada, Europe and even few Asian countries. 

“You don’t know me, but I just want to say that I completely agree (with your campaign) and want to support Save The Time.” Was the opening line to just one of the telephone conversations I received last week. Although the caller and I have never met, it seemed we both shared so so much in common. 

“It is good to see that someone out there actually does care about us” was another common comment.  Yes, someone does care about you – a bunch of us- a bunch of your fellow watchmakers and many more watch enthusiasts, collectors and watch owners!

Yes, there are a number of people and organisations out there who couldn’t care less if you quietly packed your tools, cleaned your work bench and closed the ‘last watch repair shop’ in town, never again to train an apprentice. Despite years behind the bench, they tell you that you are incompetent to repair even the simplest ‘brand name’ quartz movement. That you, as an independent watch repairer, are too old to be trained, that your work shop is ‘not up to standard’ and that you no longer belong to the world of modern watchmaking. They have  rendered you basically useless.

Fellow watchmakers: don’t waste even a minute of your precious time listening to such nonsense!

If you call yourself a watchmaker and make honest living repairing watches, then you are nothing but an asset to the watch industry! 

You are an asset to your family, your customers and your country – no matter where you are.

And we do care about you.

Every day, I receive a number of phone calls and emails form watch owners who are looking for a local independent watchmaker. “Can you recommend someone in Melbourne who can overhaul my vintage watch? I am calling from Adelaide – there is only one shop here and they are not really proper watchmakers – can you help?  I need an urgent battery replacement, Easter suburbs, the “brand name” service takes 5 weeks and I am in a hurry”. Another similar email just arrived in my inbox as I’m typing: “I have a replacement crown, I just need a watchmaker to install it and take the case back off my watch so I can photograph the movement”. Yes, maybe a small job, and maybe not what you have been trained to do but nevertheless a priceless service that no one else can offer – but YOU!

There is plenty of work out there, but most of us are too slow to embrace new ways of doing business. The time for change is long overdue and that change must start from us, from within the trade.

Save-the-time.org is here for you, and we want to help you to attract new customers and grow your business.

We believe that talk is cheap. Here is what we can do for you right now, FREE of charge:

   We are compiling a WATCHMAKER DIRECTORY: a listing of independent watch repairers both in Australia and worldwide. This listing is specifically designed to showcase your repair business. When you send an email to register you will receive a FREE listing showing your contact details, email address and a brief description of what you can offer your customers. The listing will have a photo of your shop and a FREE link to your website! 

-   To register, fill-in the form in PDF or .DOC format by clicking these links and email it to register@save-the-time.org

Remember there are hundreds and maybe even thousands of customers looking for you right now, but to them you may be invisible.

-    
You are not only invisible to customers, but to watch spare parts suppliers! For that reason, we have created a SUPPLIERS DIRECTORY.
 

There are number of suppliers who, like you, are struggling to sell their product and who desperately need your business. You must start placing orders with those suppliers. Just because you cannot source parts for some brand name watches doesn’t mean you can’t offer an alternative solution.

SUPPLIERS: please also take advantage of our listing. We appreciate your support to the industry and we are happy to offer you a FREE listing too. Please fill in the registry form here in .PDF or .DOC format. 

FREE access to thousands of watch enthusiasts to showcase your independent watch business!

We will not sell your email address to our subscribers, we’ll offer you something much better: an opportunity to submit your watch related articles.

Our subscribers are hungry for quality content! Writing an article for a mailing list or blog is actually much easier than you think. We are looking for quality content: your expert’s story, opinion, advice, tip or explanation about anything watch related! 

Quite frankly, true watch enthusiasts are fed up with ‘brand name’ propaganda from glossy magazines, so called watch forums infested with anonymous trolls and so-called watch experts who have never actually seen the watch movement or who don’t have a clue what a balance staff is! If there’s one area where we can beat big brand names hands down, then it’s with the fact that we have countless years of real ‘behind the bench’ experience working on everything from Poljot to Patek, from regulators to complex repeaters.

You can no longer wait for someone else out there to change your destiny. There is no alternative:  we will either start doing things ‘properly’ or we will disappear like Tassie tigers.

Finally, a little personal gift to you, just to cheer you up and to once again show you that we do care about you: the most talked about Save The Time T-shirt:

Save-The-Time.org is giving YOU a FREE t-shirt!

Wear it with pride or frame it and display it in your shop as a symbol of your determination to fight for YOUR business.

Yes, in a few days we will have 100 shirts to give away.

50 shirts will be allocated to watchmakers and watch suppliers who register for either the Save The Time watchmaker or suppler directory.

An additional 50 shirts will be given away to the first 50

newsletter subscribers to email us back.

Simply fill-in the form here in .PDF or .DOC format and request “I want that super cool shirt right now”.

BE QUICK!

We do understand that some of our subscribers would prefer to receive a Save The Time t-shirt the old-fashioned way, by placing an order. While we are not really in the business of selling t-shirts, a limited quantity of 20 shirts will be available for those who wish to support the Save The Time project . If this is you then please fill in the second part of the form and tell us what the coolest watch shirt is worth to you.

Regardless of the way you intend to claim the shirt - as a supplier, watchmaker, subscriber, or buyer – please make sure to let us know your SHIRT SIZE!

All shirts are made by Fruit of the Loom using 100% cotton and are available in black. 

This shirt is a symbol of people working together for a common benefit.

*** New arrivals: April 16, 2012.

       Again, my apology to hard-core subscribers who are desperately awaiting new watch arrivals: please bear with us just a few days longer! We have a nice pile of goodies waiting to be listed: a stunning  Lange 233.026 18K WG, Omega Speedmaster Missions 3597.03 Gemini V 1965 mission patch, an Omega black /white gold bezel Seamaster XL size, a Breitling Navitimer, Breitling Navitimer twin 36, Breitling Superocean black chrono, 3x Omega Speedmasters , a Panerai Submersible, Panerai Radiomir and Panerai PAM005 logo (brand new condition), an Omega Railmaster XXL, a lovely Rolex President double quick set 18K YG, and a Heuer Monaco limited edition – plus a few more!

Stolen Watches

Newsletter archive | 11th April 2012 

Mail from one of my subscribers: 

Hi Nick, I am a customer and have purchased a couple of cheaper 
watches from you and appreciated the value and the service.

Can you tell me how dealers  protect yourself and customers from the 
reselling of stolen watches?

I ask because over Easter thieves entered my home and stole my prized 
IWC Portuguese Chrono Rose Gold watch...I am devastated to know that 
this beautiful watch will be in a dealers or pawn shop or even worse 
on E-Bay shortly and a buyer will take the sellers word that it's 
their property...

Regards,

D.U.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi David,

Sorry to hear about your loss.

If the watch ends up with honest second hand dealer then this would be your best chance for recovery.

All second hand dealers are required to submit watch serial numbers and sellers details to the police within 24 hours. The Police will then keep details on file and match the watch details with their database of stolen watches.
When a dealer buys a watch from a member of the public, it is considered to be at the dealer's own risk, and this system works well. Plus a dealer would never buy a watch from someone who refuses to disclose his details and sign a declaration of ownership.

Unfortunately most stolen watches are 'exported' overseas

or sold online. Private buyers and sellers are not required to

report or register deals to police.

However, dealing in stolen goods is a criminal offense, even when

the purchase is made 'in good faith'.

In your particular case: you should contact the police as soon as possible,

in writing, and provide watch details -

full description, any unique properties and serial / model reference numbers.

Here are couple of tips

- Always keep all the receipts

- Have the watch valued for insurance purpose

- Have the watch insured

- Store it in a safe place.

- Be smart! Don't leave the watch unattended or on sight; even if you are     leaving the house for just short period of time.

In the case of burglary, the first things that will be stolen are watches, jewellery and cash.

Nick

The Tassie Tiger: An Animal Like No Other

*** Plenty of kangaroos and wombats - but no tigers! 

The Tasmanian tiger is one of the most fabled animals in the world.
Yet, despite its fame, it is one of the least understood.
European settlers were puzzled by it, feared it and killed it when they could.
But things went from bad to worse when Tasmanian Government encouraged sheep farmers to hunt and kill.
By 1910, this beautiful animal had been pushed to the brink of extinction.

The tiger was shy and secretive and always avoided contact with humans.
Despite being called a tiger it had a quiet temperament.
Captured animals generally gave up without a struggle and many died suddenly, from shock.
 
On September 7th 1936 the last captured tiger died alone, in a dirty cage of Hobart zoo.
 
Yes, the Tassie tiger was an animal like no other.
 
Recently I attended a children’s birthday party. Chatting, hopping from topic to topic,
the discussion got heated when someone asked "if you could go back in time, where would you go?"
 
She was 5 or maybe 6. In her proudest voice, she stopped the crowd:
"I would go and save Tasmanian tiger. I would smash his cage,
hug him, take him home, call him Ricky and he will be my best friend forever".
 
Yes, true activists are born, not bred!
 
Sometimes being close to the issue can be counter-productive.
And what seems right to me may not necessarily seem right to you.
 
The decision to call a few of my colleagues and discuss common trade issues was
not high on my priority list. Watchmakers are busy people and, like Tassie tigers,
generally shy and secretive.
Yet to get a clearer picture and perhaps a more objective one, I had no
choice but to pick up the phone and let them talk.
 
Interview time was limited to 5 minutes.


*** 

CARL PARKER, master watchmaker, Sydney.

Mr. Parker, as a typical independent watchmaker… Well, I don’t really think I’m typical. But independent Australian watchmaker, definitely yes.
 
Would you describe yourself as a professional watchmaker? Yes, I’ve been an instructor for the Swiss watch industry for 20 years.
 
And how long have you been in the watch repair business? Since 1972 (40 years).
 
And what is the core nature of your business? We repair high grade wrist watches, clocks, music boxes and barometers.
 
So you would have no problem repairing a mechanical watch like, for example, a Rolex Datejust? No, not at all.
 
But do you have access to Rolex spare parts? No.
 
Can you get parts for Cartier? No.
 
How about Breitling? No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?

One.

And how many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia? One.
 
Carl, thank you for taking time to answer these questions.


*** 

THOMAS CZIBIULA, master watchmaker, Sydney 
 
Mr. Czibula, as many of our subscribers know, you run an independent watch repair business in Sydney CBD. Yes, I’ve been repairing watches for 37 years now.
 
So you are a professional watchmaker? Yes. I’m a European-trained master watchmaker specialising in mechanical watches. I offer repair service to both individual customers and companies.
 
Based on your experience and skills would you be able to overhaul an automatic wrist watch like Rolex Datejust? Yes, of course.
 
Do you have access to Rolex spare parts or an account with Rolex Australia?
No.
 
Can you get spare parts from Cartier/Richemont group? No.
 
How about Breitling?
No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?

Officially, none. Unofficially one, my son.
 
How many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia?
Unfortunately none.


***  

JOAL SANTOS, master watchmaker, Sydney.
 
Mr. Santos, thank you for taking time to answer a couple of questions for our readers. Can you tell us a bit about yourself? I started my watch repair career in Europe. I was trained by Swiss Ebauch Group.
 
So you consider yourself to be a professional watchmaker? Yes. I’ve been working with watches for 40 years. I started my apprenticeship at the age of 12.
 
What kind of repairs do you do? I repair high-grade watches.
 
So you have no problem repairing a mechanical watch, a Rolex Datejust, for example? No, not at all. I would consider this a simple repair job.
 
But do you have access to Rolex spare parts?  
No. My account with Rolex was closed in 2005. 
 
Can you get spare parts from Cartier/Richemont group? No.
 
How about Breitling? No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?  
Two.
 
And how many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia?  
Two.
 

***   

MAX SCHWEIZER, master watchmaker, Sydney.
 
Mr. Schweizer is one of the most reputable and well respected watchmakers not only amongst watch enthusiasts but also within the watch trade itself. I have to admit I did not feel comfortable asking Max for interview. As a native Swiss and long-time authorized Rolex serviceman, I thought he would have no interest in answering questions which could put him in compromising position. Nevertheless, I made a phone call to his workshop early morning.
 
Mr. Schweizer, would you describe yourself as a professional watchmaker?  
Yes.
 
How long have you been in the watch servicing business?  
Hmm, I need to do some math’s for that one…Since 1965, 47 years! I was born in Switzerland and trained as a watchmaker with Eterna. I was then sent to train watchmakers in Nairobi, Africa. In 1975 I got a new job as a Rolex instructor in Cairo. After arriving in Australia I started my independent watch repair business.
 
Repairing high grade Swiss watches?  
Yes.
 
Would you consider the repair on a watch, such as a Rolex Datejust, a straightforward job?  

Yes, of course.
 
So, you probably have access to Rolex spare parts, right?  
Actually no, I don't. My account with Rolex Australia was closed at the end of March 2012.
Six months ago I received a letter from Rolex informing me that my account was to be closed. 
 
This is shocking news. What was your reaction?
 
Unfortunately it is true. My wife and I spent the best years of our life working for the brand. We were loyal to Rolex. We are still in a state of disbelief. Until we received the letter, the thought never crossed our mind that this would happen. With just one year before retirement, it is difficult to find rational explanation for such a decision.
 
At this point of the interview, I felt it unsuitable to proceed further as the closure of Max Schweizer’s Rolex account has evidently caused him much distress. However I thought it necessary to inquire about the other brands: 
Can you get spare parts from Cartier/Richemont group?

No.

How about Breitling?

No.
 
How many apprentices have you trained in the last 10 years?

Three
 
How many of those that you’ve trained are practicing trade as independent watchmakers in Australia?

Only one is currently working independently in the watch trade.  

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------                                                  

***
I guess the true reason for not wanting to talk to watchmakers was not
lack of time, but predictability of answers.

Let me state the obvious: independent watchmakers are true asset to any
society. They possess skills acquired over many decades of complex
restorations and repairs. They work on high-grade watches, both new (if they can get spare parts!)
and vintage. They also restore and repair fine and unusual timepieces
like vintage pocket watches, music boxes, complex clock mechanisms, barometers.

They are shy tigers.

Brand name watchmakers who specialize in single brand and single caliber watches,
who were trained 'in house', are far less versatile and offer a more limited service.
They have no contact with the general public. They are not
trained to teach other watchmakers and pass their knowledge onto the next generation.

There are many millions of lesser known brand watches out there -awaiting restoration-
that are absolutely of no interest to 'authorized brand name' service centers.
Actually, as some of you know, often, even brand name watches are rendered
beyond repair after certain age.
What you may regard as a priceless family heirloom, a brand name Swiss repair centre
may regard as worthless junk.

Once the last ‘tiger’ is captured and starved to death,
watch collectors and the general public will notice the difference.
By then it will be too late.

I have not the slightest doubt that one day science will advance
so far that the Tasmanian tiger will be 'recreated' from a remnant of DNA.

Unfortunately, even then, recreating a master watchmaker from DNA would be still impossible!

 

Don't wait untill it's too late - do the right thing: 

Save the time. Download the petition now ( .doc / .pdf )

 

So How Was Your Day?

Newsletter archive | 2nd April 2012

He runs a small watch repair shop located inside the smallest mall of the smallest country town, north of Bundaberg. He gets home late because that chiming clock is still missing its last quarter chime and he’s just too tired to watch the footy.

"How was your day?" she asks.

"It was good. Eight Seiko and Casio batteries, three watchbands, and Mrs. Smith collected that pocket watch I finished in October. She was too busy to collect it earlier, but it's all good.
It was a good day of trading."

But he knew perfectly well that the trade was not even close to 'good'. With $217 dollars in the cash register he could barely afford to pay their bills and the rent. The only reason why it was good was because most of the other business were doing far worse after yet another flood, or was it a drought?

The business had not been good for years, actually since the cheap battery operated watches replaced mechanical timepieces. The change of technology meant that his skills were no longer required; cheap battery operated watches were too cheap to service and even cheaper to replace. He tried to 'diversify' into the clock trade, apparently everyone else was doing well in clocks. He invested in a bushing tool, main spring winder and even a second-hand Myford lathe which cost a fortune.
Yet deep down in his heart he knew that fixing clocks was not really what he was trained to do, what he wanted to do.

When clock collecting collapsed in early 1990’s (by then he had repaired all 17 clocks in 75 km radius, including that Church clock which went silent after the War, free of charge of course), he was told that "money is in vintage watches". Apparently everyone was trading on eBay.
But he was not a trader. He did not have the money to invest in stock, was not sure how that eBay thing really worked, and was too honest to sell a broken watch to someone half way around the globe.

"It was a good day" he kept telling her every night.

Of course, some of his friends were doing OK in the watch business. Every now and then one of them would stop by that small shop to show him one of their latest acquisitions: a vintage Rolex, a nice Longines, and then there was that fancy 1980s two-tone Cartier.

"Is it genuine?" The visitor would ask.
"Yes, it is."
"So if I need a battery replacement, can I bring it to you?"
"No, I’m sorry, I can’t replace the battery in a Cartier because I don't have a case seal for it".

But he would love to do be able to do so. A battery replacement for that fancy Swiss watch is something he could easily charge $35 dollars for. A couple of those per week would mean an extra $280 per month, or exactly $3,640 per year  - enough to buy a "new" Ute.

That was all he needed to make a breakthrough - two fancy Swiss watch batteries per week.
And if he could perhaps get a new winding crown or a plexiglass for that vintage Rolex, he could make a small fortune; that would be an easy $450 repair too!

Unfortunately he knew all too well that he would never get access to Swiss spare parts.
He knew the phone call to Richemont will be answered with "Sorry no parts.
We don't sell to independent watchmakers. Actually we don't supply parts to anyone anymore, we do all of our repairs in-house. And please, stop calling us."

No parts. All he needed is a $2 rubber seal so he could seal the case after the battery replacement.
No parts. Not a screw. Not a seal.
No parts.

For some time he kept dreaming; a $2 dollar rubber seal from Cartier could make all the difference for his small business.
A $25 steel crown for that vintage Rolex would mean he could earn a small fortune. With access to Swiss parts he could even take in an apprentice! Maybe he could expand, advertise online?

He was not interested in competing with the Swiss monopolist. All he wanted to do is what he was trained to - make an honest living repairing watches that Rolex had already rendered as "too old to be repaired".
That really would be a good day!

Unfortunately, his services were no longer needed. No parts meant a slow and steady decline for both his business and his pride.
The closure of the last small watch repair shop located inside the smallest mall of the smallest country town, north of Bundaberg, was not even news for the smallest local papers.

So how was your day, Rolex? And how was yours, Richemont? Have you had a good one?

----------------------------------------------------
*** FACT:

A watch battery replacement is a simple job, yet even the most experienced Australian watchmakers and jewellers are unable to perform it due to the restricted supply of spare parts from Swiss watch brands to independent repairers.


Many thousands of high-grade Swiss watches owned by Australian people are no longer repaired in Australia, by Australian tradesman. Instead, those repair jobs are 'outsourced' to Switzerland.

Ironically, while many IT and financial sector jobs are being outsourced to developing countries, resulting in lower service costs for the consumer, exactly the opposite is happening with the outsourcing of Swiss brand watch repairs to Switzerland.

Outsourcing equates to higher repair costs for the Australian consumer, with no return on capital back into Australia.


----------------------------------------------------

The monopoly on the supply of spare parts for brand-name Swiss watches will mean the death of Australian independent watchmakers.

Mail bag - Re: Diver's COMEX

Your input, as always, is priceless. I just wish I could publish all your comments but hey - something has to be left for memoirs :-)

The first one is from a concerned lawyer, second comes from the desk of a disappointed husband and the third from lady who believes that I would publish anything - even off topic copy-and-paste tweets. And she was not wrong...

---

Hi Nick,

I know this is highly unusual, however, I thought I might ask whether this gentlemen has put in a claim with a lawyer for his accident. If it is not too much trouble, would you be able to ask him directly? I am concerned that, as a result of his injury, he may not have canvassed this issue, to his detriment.

If you are uncomfortable in contacting him, I understand, but would ask that you do let me know in either event.

Kind regards,

K.L.
Senior Lawyer
........... Victoria

---

Dear Nick,

Further to your featured bad luck Rolex story, I have one too. Many years ago my wife was a flight attendant for Qantas. She was doing a trip from Dubai to London. At the end of the journey all the staff who worked in first class were given a gold Rolex by one of the passengers - an Arab sheik. Apparently this was not an unusual practice in the seventies. I guess that nowadays the super rich would have their own private jets. Sadly my beloved was only working in business class and missed out on the gold Rolex.

I.I.

---

Dear Nick

My husband sent me this from the online 'Economist'. It is not about your favourite subject of watches but the buying and selling of an heirloom gold chain that involved valuations from Sotheby's and Christies and the consequences of going to Court. No doubt the ruling could also apply to a very special watch.

Please keep sending out your emails as I enjoy reading your comments.

Kind regards, C.J.

The art of auction valuation
Matters of opinion

March 2nd 2012, 23:29 by P.W. | LONDON

CAVEAT vendor. Art is not science, so it quite literally pays for sellers and buyers to understand the rules of what can be a very costly game. For many people this will be the most salient message of the High Court verdict handed down last night by Judge Mark Pelling QC, following the week-long trial of a suit brought by the Lord Coleridge against Sotheby's, an auction house.

Lord Coleridge claimed that the auction-house expert, Elizabeth Mitchell, was negligent when she gave an auction valuation of a treasured family heirloom. The historic gold chain of office had been in his family for generations, and the Coleridges (distant relatives of the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge) believed it dated from the mid-16th century. Lord Coleridge had expected that the estimate for his rare Tudor jewel would be £500,000 or more. Ms Mitchell, however, proposed that it was from the late 17th century, and gave it an estimate of £25,000 to £35,000. This, Lord Coleridge claimed, had cost him a good deal of money. He sued for £415,000.

The case is fascinating but complicated. Lord Coleridge owned an almost six-foot long gold chain of office—the kind worn on grand occasions by the Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, a court that was dissolved in the late 19th century. John Duke Coleridge was the last person to serve, and the gold chain was his. According to family tradition it might even have been the gift of Henry VIII.

Lord Coleridge did not want to sell this emblem of a distinguished ancestor; a jewel that connected his family to a formidable king. But, as he told this writer, he always saw it as a lifeboat, too. If ever times got really bad, its sale would save the family. Such circumstances came to be in 2006, when his daughter could not afford to maintain the house that had been in their family since 1796. The house and its contents were put on the market. Lord Coleridge launched his golden lifeboat, expecting that its sale would allow them to keep the house. But Sotheby's disappointing valuation of his chain seemed to rule this out. Instead, they sold the family home, and its buyer, Max Norris, wanted the chain with it. He offered Sotheby's high auction estimate of £35,000 and Lord Coleridge accepted.

In 2008 Mr Norris chose to auction off the chain at Christie's. There it was catalogued as Tudor and sold for a hammer price of £260,000.

Either Sotheby's had it right or Christie's did. The chain was either Tudor or it was not. Lord Coleridge sided with Christie's valuation and sued. He claimed that if Elizabeth Mitchell (now retired) had spent more time studying his chain, it would have earned a much higher estimate.

The gripping trial was part family drama, part exposition of goldsmiths' techniques and a crash course in English legal history. The cross-examinations were lively; the hectoring tone of the claimant's barrister was occasionally undercut by the comic failure of his wig to stay on his head. At the core of the case was the search for documentary evidence that would prove the chain was Tudor. None emerged. As a result, the case had to rely on expert testimony.

High-calibre art experts have long experience, deep knowledge and a good eye. In this area, Sotheby's was more fortunate (or canny) in its choices than was Christie's. Charles Truman, an ex-director of Christies and an authority on antique gold objects and jewels, was Sotheby's expert witness. Marian Campbell and Philippa Glanville, widely respected authorities on early metal work (and both ex-Victoria & Albert curators), shared his view that the chain is not Tudor.

Lord Coleridge lost his case. The judge did rule, however, that Sotheby's should have told him that in a private sale it is usual to double the lower auction estimate; he ought to have asked Mr Norris to pay £50,000 rather than £35,000. He was therefore awarded compensation of about £20,000. But because he lost the case, Lord Coleridge has to pay 90% of most of its costs, estimated at £1m. Hearing the verdict was like listening to a morality tale. There was much to learn from it.

Essentially, if a work of art or an antique is of personal or financial importance, it pays to get a second opinion if you don't much care for the first one. The job of an expert is to use acquired skills and natural gifts to narrow the gap between opinion and fact. The better the expert, the more narrow the gap—but it never disappears
entirely. Experience teaches collectors, dealers and art historians that mistakes are unavoidable. Learning from them is often more beneficial and less expensive than going to court.

As it happens, the chain was bought at Christie's in 2008 by Christopher Moran, who has built on enormous Tudor-style house alongside the Thames. Perhaps he will not mind having a collar that now is widely considered to be Tudor style, rather than the real thing.

Silver pocket watch

Hi Nick

You distribute some very interesting emails, thanks. I bought the Lanco watch you advertised in December and am looking forward to restoring it after I finish the Seiko. I also recently inherited a pocket watch which has been in the family for some years. I wound it up and it went, so then I opened it up to inspect the mechanism. However the mechanism is enclosed in an inner case which I have not attempted to open. I am enclosing a photo. Can you give me any information on the type of mechanism please.

Cheers
Paul L.

Hi Paul -

Good to hear from you. Hope you are having fun with that Seiko :-)

Congratulations on a pocket watch! What a lovely piece. It looks like a typical 1880s English silver cased hunter with straight lever escapement. Key wound and key set.

While the mechanism is 'machine made', the individual parts are hand finished, hand engraved and decorated. In most cases, the exposed balance wheel cock is just a teaser so please do go ahead and remove that cover to see what's hiding under.


To remove the cover, slide the 'half moon' shaped latch in the direction as shown on the picture. Note how the latch is slotted into two protruding steel pins. Once 'unslotted' the cover can be lifted up. Easy! Be careful of course not to touch any components, especially not the balance wheel. Repairs on this type of movement are now expensive - most watchmakers who used to repair pocket watches are now retired or rest in well deserved peace.

While most pocket watches from that era no longer keep time (you are lucky that your piece still ticks!) they are great projects for historical horological research.

Thanks to typical British pedancity and a bunch of hallmarks stamped inside the case back, we can find out a fair bit about the origin of the watch case - date of manufacture, where it was produced and in most cases who was the maker.

Look for symbols similar to ones listed here:


In the above example, this set of marks tells us that this piece was made of Sterling, in the city of London, in the year 1789 during the reign of King George III by silversmith Thomas Wallis.

This is a typical set of antique British silver marks showing (1) Standard mark, (2) City mark, (3) Date letter, (4) Duty mark and (5) Maker's mark.

The most important letter is city mark. The reason is simple: each city had it's own date code table so for example for the year 1880 assigned date letter is 'E' for London made cases. Or if the case was produced in Exeter, it would be hallmarked with "D".


I am not going to spoil your enjoyment by revealing any more details. There are number of good websites which will help you identify the British silver hallmarks. Or if you prefer paper, look for booklet titled English Silver Hallmarks by Judith Banister ($5).

Just keep in mind that you must start by correctly identifying the CITY mark and the rest should fall in place.

After you remove the movement cover, look for the watchmaker's signature. Unfortunately this is where your online research may hit a dead end - so you may need to consult reference books like Watchmakers and Clockmakers of the World (Vol I and II) by G. H. Baillie. This authoritative book is a priceless aid for any serious student of horology.

Let us know how you go! Good luck and have fun.

PAM 217 Marina Militare Destro: Heidi's choice?

For many, the 217 is the Holy Grail of Panerai watches. Yes, it is an uber-cool, rare, stunning head turner.

A piece designed for a real man. I am talking here about you or Matt Damon. Oh yes, in that order.

I can't think of any other Panerai out there that would give you so much 'exposure'. Quite frankly it is difficult to describe 217 as anything but the ultimate attention seeker.

Now, make no mistake: I am *not* crazy about Panerai watches in general. I find them too precious to be worn, not water proof enough for what you would expect from a 'military' grade watch. For someone who still prefers inner beauty than external appearance, ETA movements leaves very little room for excitement. After all, I started my apprenticeship on this very same calibre - except it was called the Unitas pocket watch back then. Yeah, kind of like expecting Mat Moran to get excited about the new McChicken Burger.

And for all the above reasons (and a few more) I just could not put this watch for sale before giving it a test ride.

To accommodate my butcher's size wrist, the 217 was fitted with a custom made military style strap (comfortable 22cm!) and I've promised myself to give it a "fair go".


Then I took it "for a walk".

My first point of stop was a local news agent. Then a couple of food vendors at the local food court. While I was not trying to hide it, neither was I pushing it in people's faces. Yet the effect was very much the same: a curious, puzzled look of disbelief.

A fellow passenger on the bus home could not resist to comment. "Nice watch!" he said. Getting a compliment from a busy Sydneysider on a Friday afternoon bus is as cool and as difficult as getting an autographed picture from Heidi Klum. In the year 2012 people just don't care. And even when they do, they mind their own business. Or talk on their mobile phone, or whatever.

Trying to impress my only friend with the PAM217 was more challenging than I thought. Yet even he - a guy totally not into watches - could not help himself but to notice my large Militare.

"What do you think it's worth?" I asked.
"Five thousand? Maybe six?" he said.
"OK, guess again - and here is your 'call a friend' tip: less than twenty".
"Are you kidding me - he said - take it off, let me have a closer look."

So I did. After an agonizing 30 seconds of inspection, he said: "I really hate you. But even I can see why this Pammmeriii is worth $20K."

And that is exactly what is so special with the 217: anyone, including my best friend
who is totally NOT into watches can appreciate all the reasons why the Militare Destro is such a great piece.

Yes, some watchmakers are completely blind for external beauty, me included.

In one word: elitist, exclusive, rare and snobbish. But not over the top, not vulgar and never inappropriate.

In case you are still unsure about it, ask yourself this question: if you were invited to dinner with Heidi, which one would you wear?

Exactly!

PS: Now here is the most extraordinary fact about the 217 - despite the large size of 47mm, it is probably one of the most comfortable Panerai watches! Thanks to the destro" design (designed for people who wear watches on their right hand) and thick saddle leather strap, the watch sits very comfortably on the wrist. I am wearing it now, as I type, and I've been wearing it all day today without the slightest discomfort. Priceless feeling! I just wish they made it in 49mm.