Thursday, September 21, 2023

SEIKO 55th anniversary of Seiko 5:

Back to 1969!

Without a doubt, the most important year for wrist watches was 1969. Omega Speedmaster was worn on the moon, as a true tool watch. What a legend.

In 1969, the other side of the world, Seiko was making equally legendary stuff too: humble, mechanical, self winding sports watches simply named 'SEIKO 5'. Above all: affordable and eye-catching. 

By the mid 1970s the world was sick and tired of the Vietnam war, demonstrations, conscriptions, energy crisis - and hungry for excitement, international travel, mass-produced affordable watches, Olympic games, photography, and solid, undiluted Rock and Roll. We were ready for Seiko 5.

And fifty five years later, SEIKO is still here, to excite and entertain. The two latest anniversary models sum up nicely the sport of the era: the bright 'orange and black sector inner bezel' and the tricolori RGB. Special edition, as marked on the case back. 

And still at the price no Swiss manufacturer could match: only $495.

Both colours in stock - call 02 9232 0500 to place your order now. If you mention that you are a subscriber to this newsletter, will throw in a free delivery.

Happy anniversary SEIKO, well done.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPK11K

42.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and bracelet. Orange dial with day/date window at 3 o'clock. Hardlex glass. Automatic movement - calibre 4R36. Water resistance 100M. 

Price: $495
Seiko 5 Sports SRPK13K

42.5mm case size. Stainless steel case and bracelet. Black dial with day/date window at 3 o'clock. Hardlex glass. Automatic movement - calibre 4R36. Water resistance 100M.

Price: $495 

Tuesday, September 19, 2023

Update from the workshop

More than just watchmaking:                         
This last week we have been tackling a fairly complex problem from a local medical company. Without breaking any NDAs, the parts called for some extremely small grooves to be made in PTFE, Teflon. 
Traditionally, working with plastics is actually quite easy. The tool wear is low, and the material is quite forgiving. But with Teflon, micro-milling is more analogous to trying to cut bubble-gum with a spoon. 

Making a groove that's just under half the width of a human hair becomes a very large challenge when dealing with Teflon!

Due to the quick turnaround needed on the job, we had to make the tool that would create this geometry ourselves. We used some micro-grain tungsten carbide, a very hard, homogenous material used for most cutting tools, and used a series of diamond wheels to grind the desired cutting geometry. 
First a cone was ground, and then very precisely split down the centre of the tool. The resulting geometry is a very precise V shape, with sharp edges that are able to carve out the Teflon, in the same way that an ice-cream spoon creates a nice curled scoop. 
The tool is then placed into our Kern micro-milling machine, measured, adjusted and then introduced into the Teflon - with the line "scribed" to the desired depth. 

The first-principles mechanics behind the process are very simple. Using an exacto knife to cut a profile in a piece of cardboard, or dragging your foot in the sand to mark the lines of a beach volleyball court, or making the guilloche pattern on the dial of a MK2 Curl Curl, all use the same basic cutting action. 

The execution... that's where the devil is in the details!
Most interestingly of all... the only reason why we were able to take this job on, and execute it in such a fast time frame, was due to our stable, in-house processes behind the guilloche of the MK2 Curl Curl. Our sister company, NH Micro, was able to leverage the watchmaking experience that birthed it, and offer it to local, Australian owned and operated, high tech businesses. After years and years of setting up, and trying to build horological capability in Australia, we are finally edging closer to the point where we can give back. 

Horology has always been intermixed with parallel precision industries, whether it be time measurement enabling the exploration of the world and the universe through celestial observation, or life saving medical instruments leveraging manufacturing knowhow from the artisans that made screws and pinions for watches in the 60s and 70s, or now, in Sydney, where the "too old, too dumb, and unwilling to invest" are enabling the broader Australian advanced manufacturing industry to thrive...

Josh

Monday, September 18, 2023

It has never been a better time to be an ASTRON dealer!

 

The long awaited new limited edition models are finally here.

Only 1200 pieces to be sold in the entire world! Obviously, most SEIKO dealers would be lucky to get even a single watch. Yet we've got all three!

And we are grateful. To have the latest ASTRONs delivered at the same time as they appear in SEIKO Boutiques is a sign that SEIKO respects our newsletter subscribers. It is also a sign of respect for the fact that we are watchmakers who understand the complexity of ASTRON's mechanism; the workmanship that goes in to it; the cutting edge technology behind it.

Just think of this simple line, literally hidden in the ASTRON product description sheet: "Powered by any light source". Which other watch manufacturer can make such claim? Or this one: "Accuracy: better than 1 second every 100,000 years". Yes, that accuracy is the result of daily automatic time adjustments, but that adjustment happens without you even noticing it. Super accurate, nothing to do, nothing to worry about.

And the price is right on the money for a watch manufactured not in a workshop, but in a laboratory. In Japan, assembled by real people, probably the most skilled watchmakers on the planet. 

My favourite: the red SSH137J. 
Price: the full recommended retail price, plus $1. Happy to throw in free delivery.
Silver/White/Blue SSH135J
Limited Edition


42.7mm case size. Titanium case and bracelet. Additional silicon strap. Sapphire crystal. GPS - dual time solar powered movement. 100 metres water resistance. 1,200 pieces worldwide. 

Boutique price: $4,050

Your price: $4,051
Black/Lime SSH139J
Limited Edition


42.7mm case size. Black titanium case and bracelet. Additional silicon strap. Sapphire crystal. GPS - dual time solar powered movement. 100 metres water resistance. 1,200 pieces worldwide. 

Boutique price: $4,200

Your price: $4,201
Black/Red SSH137J
Limited Edition


42.7mm case size. Black titanium case and bracelet. Additional silicon strap. Sapphire crystal. GPS - dual time solar powered movement. 100 metres water resistance. 1,200 pieces worldwide. 

Boutique price: $4,300

Your price: $4,301

A small way of saying 'Thank you'

 

The Curl Curl video is finally uploaded. Almost a year in the making!

We always say that Mark II is a love letter to Titanium - so we simply let the waves speak for themselves.

https://youtu.be/I4nb0iB4kDY?si=SMqogLuh0j44_Xn7

Enjoy.

Thursday, September 7, 2023

Five generations of WOLF

 

If there ever was a story of business longevity in the ever changing niche of luxury goods, then it has to be the story of the Wolf family. Founded on the motto that 'ones prized possessions must be stored in a fine quality case' German silversmith Philip Wolf I started a business with the goal to provide the retailers with the finest jewellery and silverware cases possible.
The year was 1834. Five generations later, Wolf is still a family business run with the same passion, focused on the same goal.

Like you, I have heard of WOLF watch winders, but until recently, for some reason, I was under the impression that 'founded in 1834' was just WOLF's marketing ploy. After all, wrist watches became popular only in the 1920s, and the first watch winders hit the market almost 160 years later! I've failed to put two and two together; that the WOLF people, the case makers, and the watch winder makers, are actually the same company!

Of course, the confusion ends the moment you lay your hand down on a finely made WOLF winder realising that you are dealing with craftsman who have been making fine products for generations.

But before we go any further: as a long standing subscriber to this newsletter, you are now puzzled why in the world I am even talking about watch winders. Aren't winders nothing more than a cynical invention of the devil himself, intended to ruin your finely crafted mechanical watches, by virtue of over winding, causing excessive wear and tear, rendering them useless? At least, wasn't that my mantra for at least a decade, if not longer?

You are right. While I was probably the first person to sell watch winders in Sydney - if not in Australia - and while I've sold literally truckloads of winders, about ten years ago I had enough of them. Watch winders are bulky, fragile and heavy. Shipping them around Australia was a challenge. Storing them in our city office was a nightmare. And quite frankly, I got tired of explaining the obvious: don't let your watch sit on a winder, for months on end; there is no real benefit in that, and especially not in placing all of your watches on winders, purely for the sake of creating some circus act to impress your visitors, in a clownish act of fake sophistication.

All these arguments stand. They are all valid. A watch winder is a wonderful invention when consumed properly, in moderation. Here is a practical example of a responsible use: you have two watches; you wear one during the week, and other on weekends only. There is nothing wrong with having one on the winder, while other is worn on the wrist. Or, you have a dozen watches, place them on the winder, but don't spin them around. It's simple as that.

As you can see, I am back into watch winders. I am sick of people asking "when are you going to stock winders?" I am equally unhappy about my competition selling winders while I sit idle, guarding some moral ground, which quite frankly, should not be my business. If I'm to stock and sell the devil's toy, I may as well sell you probably the best one on the market - the WOLF. Use it responsibly, have fun. If your heart craves luxury - go WOLF.

NOTE: the 16 winders listed below are just a snippet from the vast WOLF range. If you need any other model / colour / size, email us for more options.
1. Green Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
2. Orange Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
3. Tutti Frutti Blue Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
4. Navy Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
5. Black Cub Single Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $635
6. WM Brown Single Watch Winder
The wm brown single winder is hand crafted in a classic smooth brown leather with negroni tweed lining.

Price: $715
7. Cortica Single Watch Winder
Hand made from sustainably grown Portuguese cork.

Price: $815
8. The Rocket: The world’s smallest travel watch winder
Small enough to cradle in the palm of your hand, operate seamlessly inside any hotel safe, pop into your overnight hold-all or pack for an extended holiday away.

Price: $975
9. Copper Axis Single Watch Winder

Price: $1,165
10. Navy Cub Double Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $1,275
11. Black Cub Double Watch Winder With Cover

Price: $1,275
12. Black British Racing Single Watch Winder

Price: $1,285
13. Green British Racing Single Watch Winder With Storage

Price: $1,335
14. Copper Axis Double Watch Winder With Storage

Price: $2,295
15. Black British Racing Triple Watch Winder with Storage 

Price: $3,735
16. Green British Racing 6 Piece Watch Winder

Price: $6,125