Showing posts with label Clasp. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clasp. Show all posts

Friday, May 8, 2009

Rolex gold bracelet: Fake or Real ?

Rolex President bracelets are stamped with hallmarks and other markings including Rolex logo, Geneve, Swiss Made, 18K, bracelet reference number etc on the inside of the folding clasp, as shown below.

On the counterfeit bracelet, you will notice how marks and markings lose their detail when viewed under magnification. Genuine President bracelets stampings are perfect in detail and quality.

The photos below show genuine 18K white gold Rolex bracelet and fake 18K yellow gold bracelet. In this particular case, the counterfeit clasp is actually 5mm longer than a genuine one but this would be difficult to spot without having the genuine bracelet next to it. The clasp hinge cut-out is also shaped differently.

On the original clasp, the Rolex crown ( coronet ) is finely detailed.

The quality of stamping or lack of it is obvious.

In this particular case, the clasp reference number is omitted.

Note the difference in the thread of link screws.

Hallmarks: the control or inspection of precious metals was an ancient concept of examination and marking, by means of inspection stamps (punch marks). In 1424, the French Archbishop Jean de Brogny, after having consulted with a council of eight Masters Goldsmiths from Geneva, enacted a regulation on the purity and hallmarking of silver objects following the French standards for application in Geneva. Today in Switzerland only gold metal watch cases must be hallmarked. Under the current law, on all gold, silver, platinum or palladium watches cases made in Switzerland or imported into Switzerland, must bear : Maker's Responsibility Mark and his indication of purity, the official Hallmark and since 1995 the head of a Saint-Bernard dog (illustrated below). Prior to 1995. the official Swiss hallmark was a lady's head.

Finally, inside the ear of St Bernard dog there is a small letter 'g' !

Golf anyone?

A victim of a freak golfing accident: Rolex President hit by bag of golf clubs. The full impact was absorbed by the wearer's wrist (ouch!) but the bracelet was badly deformed.



Out of shape - plastic deformation of clasp and bracelet



bent clasp spring





broken clasp pin



bracelet spring loaded bar



plastic (irreversible) deformation, top end



bottom end: shredded



repair process: repair to clasp, manufacturing of new clasp end and new pin in 18K gold. Slicing, welding,



and polishing



new end piece welded to bracelet




more 'fine tuning'



new gold pin, checking for size



and finally assembled bracelet. Total repair time: 2 hours.




Golf anyone?



[Q]: Does Rolex offer repair service for 18K gold watch bracelets?

Rolex Switzerland does offer bracelet refurbishment service for all 18K models. A few months ago, I was quoted $A15K for a new Presidential bracelet and about $A6K for complete refurbishment with turnaround time of 6 months.
I have seen quite a few 20-30yrs old bracelets after they were refurbished by Rolex, and I have to say they look stunning. However in my opinion, refurb. is only a good choice if you intend to hang onto your watch (sentimental reasons etc). Otherwise, a trade-in toward a new model is usually a better and cost effective solution.

[Q]: Is it safe to assume that a SS model, (sports, datejust, etc) would have come through this unscathed?

Maybe not unscathed, but would definitely better withstand the same impact with far less plastic deformation (permanent change in shape without fracture, resulting from the application of sustained stress beyond the elastic limit). If I am to play golf, my golfing watch of choice would be a plastic Swatch :-)

Rolex clasp : gold plated or gold-fused?

Gold electroplating is the process of using electrical current to coat a base metal with a relatively thin layer of gold. The thickness of the layer is 5-20 microns.

A closer examination of the Rolex Submariner 16613 clasp will show that the actual clasp is not electroplated. The layer of gold is substantially thicker - my estimate is 0.5 - 0.8 mm (500-800 microns) In essence, what we have here is a thin sheet of solid 18K gold fused at high temperature to the steel clasp.

Under normal 'wear and tear' condition, a 16613 clasp would probably need some light to medium polishing once every 3-4 years. My guess is that the gold layer would be substantially worn or even completely worn out after 5 polishing cycles or approx. 20 years. I have personally polished a number of clasps already with no visible abrasion to gold layer.

On the contrary, electroplated surfaces should not be polished. Even a very light buffing will remove gold plated deposit and expose the base metal.