The flooded Rolex

A customer knocked on my door at 4pm on Friday. "Can you help? My Rolex is full of water!"

"Of course I can - but how did you find me? I am not authorised to repair Rolex watches and I have no access to Rolex parts. And why didn’t you take it to the Rolex service centre? "

"Because Rolex is closed and because I am desperate” she said.

And she was. The watch had flooded on Monday, and there were already signs of rust at the edge of the dial. We were running out of time- fast.

A couple of weeks ago, the Rolex service centre in Sydney shut their doors "until further notice" due to the pandemic crisis. Watch repair is not an essential service and no one can argue with their decision.  But in the case of the flooded Datejust, that decision meant that by the time service would be back up and running, the watch would be a complete write-off. I can't even guess how much a new mechanism would cost - perhaps $4,000 or even more. Throw in a new dial and hands- a cool $5,000.

Of course, I had to stay after hours on Friday, but the damage to the flooded Rolex was contained and minimised, and as I type this, it is ticking cheerfully. Repair cost: $1100+GST.

I am not expecting a thank you note from Rolex. 'Thank you for helping our customer out in a time when we could not. Thank you for servicing our product and keeping our business’ reputation. Thank you for saving thousands of dollars for our customers.'

"We will never again supply spare parts to Australian independent watchmakers" said Rolex eight years ago, and to their credit, they've kept their word.

Of course, I know what you are going to say: in a few weeks from now, things are going to be ‘back to normal’. What guarantee do you have as a Rolex owner that the Rolex service centre will ever reopen? At a time of recession, 20% unemployment, when millions of Australians depend on Government handouts? At a time when even the Rolex factory in Switzerland has been closed? When sports events worldwide have been cancelled and Swiss brands no longer spend money on advertising?

I don't think that Rolex will shut down their Australian operation, but it is quite possible that two service centres (Melbourne and Sydney) could combine into one. Or if sales drop significantly, that Hong Kong could take care of all Australian customers. Rolex production was severely cut in 2018 and this is now the third year of empty displays. It's not all rosy in the country of cheese and chocolate.

And Rolex is the strongest of all Swiss brands.

Make no mistake: I would love to see the return of the good old days when Rolex was manufacturing millions of watches per year; when there was no waiting list for any model, when independent watchmakers were an integral part of their business and had access to spare parts, and when the second hand market was overflowing with stock. A co-operation between brands, watchmakers, and watch owners based on mutual respect. Is it too much to ask?

Our new "8th anniversary" logo has been freshly redesigned. The fist of resistance holding the spanner pays tribute to all makers, and especially so to machinists. The escape wheel is the symbol of watchmaking.

And together, we stand: no mega-brand, or monopolist, or institution or even Government can take away our freedom to be creative, inventive, to design and make, to repair or service, to trade and advertise for the benefit of our own and that of our customers.                       

So do you still do repairs?

The short answer is - yes - and no. There are a number of watches and brands we wouldn't even touch: all Rolex watches manufactured after 2010; all  modern IWC, JLC, Cartier, Panerai- the Richemont Group brands. Why? Because they refuse to supply parts so we are not interested in those watches - even when a repair is possible or an easy job to do.  We also stay away from Breitling for the same reason. 

However, we love jobs rejected by Rolex. If they reject your watch, or quote a ridiculous amount, or bundle one repair with another - trying to upsell - then you should contact us and we will be happy to see what can be done. Especially so with any vintage sports models. 

We also do plenty repairs of vintage Omega watches - because we can still source parts for older models. Again, in most cases, the cutoff year is 2010. 

The third group of repairs are lesser-known vintage pieces and pocket watches. The success rate is 80% or better. In general, our customers are serious collectors or watch owners who have their reasons why they would prefer to deal with independent watchmakers rather than Swiss brand services. Our charges are reasonable, but for those whose main concern is price, we suggest they take their business to our competitors. 

Recent repairs:

A gold water damaged 18k Rolex rejected by Rolex due to custom diamond bezel. The restoration included movement, case and bezel restoration. Similar project on a 1980s Cartier, also rejected by Cartier. A water damaged Speedmaster. A number of vintage GMT Masters and Submariners from 1960-1980. A vintage Stowa and Cyma.  And a Nomos with a winding issue which we managed to repair for just $150. 

All repair quotes are free of charge. 

For watch repairs in Sydney email nick@clockmaker.com.au if you have any questions, call (02) 9232-0500, or visit our workshop in the Sydney CBD:

Nicholas Hacko Fine Watches:  Suite 403, Level 4, 67 Castlereagh Street Sydney Monday to Thursday 11am-5pm, Friday 10am to 4pm.

The Most Boring Job in the World

***The Most Boring Job in the World

Being a rebelde service person has to be the most boring job in the world.
They’re simply not coming back. No broken crystals, no missing winders, not even a torn strap. 542 rebelde watches simply refuse to stop ticking. Which can be a bit disappointing if your only job is to turn up for work, waiting for a broken watch to arrive into the rebelde workshop for servicing. You might think this is a joke, but it’s not. It’s a serious problem we have – if the watches are not breaking how can we improve them?
 
You too can become a happy watch owner - order your rebelde today.
Available styles: www.nickhacko.blogspot.com.au/2017/03/rebelde-2017-production.html
Delivery time: 4-6 weeks

Up and Running

***The second round of interviews is scheduled for Thursday but I think I've already made up my mind.
Yes, I am talking about the first two rebelde apprentices who are to commence their training on July 1.

I am looking for a very certain profile and I think I've found what I am looking for. The first applicant would be perfect in the customer service area - he thrives on 'knowing things' but also on fixing things. 

 The second guy is probably a bit of an introvert, which is one of the core properties of a successful watchmaker. As a team, the two of them would be just perfect.
But the search is still open. I've been around long enough to know that things are not always as they appear to be. Nevertheless, I am very excited about new people joining the rebelde team.

Which propels us into a hive of activity in order to get us ready.

Yesterday we went to see Joao Joe Santos, our colleague and watch tools supplier.
And by us, I mean all of us! We've made it a Sunday affair, all with lunch at the Sultans Table.

I love dealing with Joe. He is the prodigious prototype of an anti-salesman.

Every tool and piece of equipment I wanted to add to my basket was questioned, assessed, taken out (I would put it back), and re-assessed. "Why do you want this particular tool? Are you sure? Wait, I'll have a better one in a few weeks’ time and it will be also cheaper."
You get the idea: Joe is not really interested in taking your cash. He simply loves what he does and he does not care about making profit. Which makes him a true asset to the Australian watchmaking community.

Who can say 'no' to a super-light ball-bearing fitted set of screwdrivers? Or pass on an unbeatable deal of Dumont tweezers? Do I need yet another hand removal tool @ $100? No, so I'll take two. How about this cool screwdriver sharpener? And my goodness, the punch tool for the Rolex rotor axel replacement is back in stock - so that goes in the basket as well.
"So you will let your apprentices use the finest Swiss tweezers?” asks Joe. Probably not, or at least, not for the first week, but they do need to see what is here, to tell the difference between non-magnetic, steel and some space-technology alloy. After all, watchmaking tools are a major part of the fun of being a watchmaker.

We loaded ourselves nicely and left Joe in the pouring rain, but excited about the new project.
Of course, there is a long list of tools on order, with more arriving in the next few weeks.
An automatic Swiss cleaning machine will be delivered by sea freight – a massive piece of equipment I have always wanted yet found no need to buy because the old manual one is still working just fine. A major capital investment, but hey - we need to get ready for rebelde watch servicing and we want to turn our workshop in a modern, well equipped facility, at least as good as major Swiss brands.

The Bergeon set of bezel removing tools was probably one piece of equipment I can live without. $1,250 for a set which will most likely sit unused for many years. But then again, it only takes that one job where you need a specialist tool - a job which will separate us from the rest of the crowd.
So here we are - ready to get back into action. Yes, the availability of spare parts is a major issue, and we don't expect any improvement any time soon. But with two new apprentices, there are still things we can and we should do. For example, we can easily get back into the battery replacement business.
We can offer very competitive prices and extremely fast turnaround times - something you simply don't get in the City. Young apprentices would need the opportunity to learn this relatively simple task and offer valuable service.

Let's be honest: battery replacement is not rocket science.

Many years ago, I was able to replace batteries in any type of watch – except Breitling Emergency Mission (this one requires a certified procedure) and a few obscure plastic-cased digital timepieces which are not really meant to be pulled apart.

So if you wish to keep my soon-to-arrive apprentices busy, then go through your drawers and find those 'dead' watches. Bring them in, mention this newsletter, and we’ll do you a very special deal: five watches/battery replacements for $50. This deal is for common timepieces like Seiko, or Swiss stuff under $1000 value.

Naturally we will charge more for Omega and TAG and similar pieces, and even more for Cartier and other luxury pieces of course, but still significantly less than the authorised service centres. And here is the beauty of this offer: if your watch needs a new seal or winding crown, or any other repair - we will let you know upfront and will quote accordingly. We will give you a CHOICE and this is what independent watchmaking is all about: a choice of who you deal with and choice of how much you will spend on a repair.

Yes, interstate jobs are welcome and we'll throw in free returns via registered shipping on any repair over $100.

Happy collecting,
Nick 

Why does a mechanical watch need servicing?

*** To service or not?

Why does a mechanical watch need servicing? How often should a watch mechanism be overhauled? What exactly needs to be performed? How long does it takes and what is the service cost?

Glad you've asked!

A 'proper' understanding of watch servicing should be of great importance to any watch owner, let alone to a keen watch collector. Let's start form the very beginning.

On a cold day when you rub your hands, you do so to warm them up. Rubbing creates friction, and the product of friction is heat.

The key word here is FRICTION.

In real life friction could be both desirable and not-so-desirable. For example, the top side of surfboard is coarse so you can have a good grip (more friction = better grip). The bottom is polished and as smooth as possible (less friction between board and water = better surfing).

When it comes to mechanical watches, friction is the evil of all motion. Friction reduces the driving force, increases wear and tear and, has a very negative effect on time keeping and accuracy.

Friction is bad. And this is the first thing to remember.

Now here is the good news: over the centuries, watchmakers have worked hard to get rid of friction, or at least to minimize its negative effect on watch performance. Friction between two surfaces (for example a watch pivot and bearing) can be reduced if both surfaces are highly polished. Reducing the size of contact area also helps. But what helps most is lubrication: when a small quantify of oil or lubricant is applied between solid surfaces, the friction is greatly reduced.

So second thing to remember: OIL is a good thing!

There is however one small problem: over time, this ‘good’ oil turns into ‘bad’ oil. After 5-6 years of constant ticking, a watch which has kept correct time no longer does so because the good, fresh oil has deteriorated to the point where it no longer act as a lubricant.

So here we arrived to the third point: oils and lubricants AGE with time.

In fact, not only do oils get worse to the point where they serve no purpose, if the watch is forced to run beyond that point things get really bad. After 7-8 years, the watch mechanism is seriously contaminated with dirt, dust and metal particles which are now embedded in the old lubricant. The mixture acts as a grinding paste – completely opposite form the very reason we lubricated the watch in the first place! After 12-15 years those fine, hard and polished pivots and jewels are now badly worn.

To answer your first question: a watch mechanism needs servicing because old oil needs to be replaced with new, fresh oil which will restore watch performance. As you guessed, this should be done each and every 5 years.

When you think of it, this is no different to grease and oil replacement in your car - except in one significant detail: the amount of lubrication in watch is minuscule. You cannot simply drain the old oil, replace the filter and voila- off you go!

In order to apply fresh oil, the watch mechanism needs to be dismantled completely. Worn out parts are replaced and all components are thoroughly cleaned, de-greased, dried, then re-assembled, lubricated and finally adjusted for good timekeeping. The watch is left to run for a few days and if needed, re-adjusted again.

[Gents and ladys Rolex Dateust dismantled, ready for cleaning]

This is what watchmakers call a complete overhaul.

The process is tedious and time consuming. A complex watch mechanism like an automatic chronograph (stop watch) may contain over 200 components. In addition, the watch case itself may need polishing and in case of water resistant watches, replacement of rubber seals and in some cases replacement of the crystal, pushers and winding crown. Finally, the watch bracelet is cleaned and polished to give the watch a desirable "as new" look.

There is no fixed charge for a complete overhaul - the more complex the watch, more time it requires to service. In addition, watchmakers often estimate the repair cost based on overall condition of the watch. A well 'looked after' watch would need less work than a watch worn daily for 20 years. With some exception, vintage watches (40+ years old) are rarely serviced by the manufacturer. In their view such watches are simply too old and spare parts are hard to obtain. Those watches may require special attention and the repair costs are usually higher. Finally, well known 'brand name' watches and those made of precious metals and studded with diamonds cost more to service due to higher insurance costs / risk, undertaken by watchmaker.

A turnaround service time of 4 weeks is industry standard, except for vintage watches or watches which need more serious repair (broken parts, water damage, shock-related issues etc).

To conclude: if you would like to extend the life expectancy of your timepiece, follow the manufacturer's advice and service it when it's due. Wearing the watch for extensive periods of time without an overhaul will cause irreversible damage which will have undesirable consequences to time keeping - even after such watch is overhauled at some later point in time.

Mechanical watches - like any other precision instruments - are not built to last forever, and especially not if abused and forced to run to point of self-destruction.

Contrary to popular web myths, placing the watch on a watch winder "to keep the oil fresh" will not extend the ‘between service time’.

If you have a number of watches in your watch collection and only wear them once per month or less, you may get away with an additional year or two between two services. But beyond that, such watch should not be worn again unless overhauled - it should be only good as 'display' model and as such left to rest, unwound and not worn, until you decide to service it and wear it again.