The hour markers, or as we call them "batons" as well as all three hands are faceted.
The facet is at 4 degrees, a very small angle, but the effect is
massive. In person, the facets on the dial and hands not only dance in
the light, but also give a strong visual line down the centre of the
hand.
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The keen eyed of you will have noticed
another interesting feature- the 2nd "grain" angle within the facet.
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We call this technique feathering.
The grinding finish that we apply on the hands is angled at 45 degrees
to mimic the shape of a feather. The inspiration comes from the coastal
birds you see on the Sydney's Northern beaches- seagulls, sea eagles,
even sulfur crested cockatoos and lorikeets!
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There is a massive technical challenge in making this decorative pattern. If the facets are off centre by more than 10 microns or so, your eye begins to pick up the lack of symmetry,
so it becomes very important that all the jigs, and raw hand dimensions
are checked and kept to a tight tolerance Secondly, the angle of the
"feathering" creates a complex compound angle that we have to hold the
part on, which calls for a very complex jig-making exercise.
But without getting ahead of ourselves, we still have to make all the
other parts! The numerals, batons, and hands all start in the same way.
Raw material of 0.8mm titanium is glued down to a special pallet. The
material itself has been stress relieved and flattened in prior
operations.
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Here you can see the progression of the
batons and numerals being milled out. The hands are done in a very
similar way. A special high strength glue is used to hold the parts to
the pallet, allowing us to profile the outside and inside shapes.
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The tools we use to cut these parts are so
small that the tip of the tool can get lost in the space between the
lines of your finger print!
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A drop of oil on the 0.2mm drill.
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The batons and the numerals are not simple
2D shapes, they actually have two little "feet" on the backside. These
feet fit inside the holes we drill on the base dial. The diameter of the
foot is 0.19mm with a tolerance band for the diameter of +0 microns ,
-10 microns. The thickness of the batons and numerals is also important,
If they are too thin they will distort and twist when assembled on the
base dial.
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Quality control - Measuring the thickness of the numeral and baton.
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Measuring the diameter of the baton pin.
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Measuring the thickness of the parts we make
is quite tricky. The probe tip we use had to be custom made for us in
Germany! Standard probe tips available as off the shelf items are too
large and would not allow us to get to the small areas between the pins
of the numerals and batons. This custom probe tip is one of the many
thousands of dollars of custom equipment we had to either make
ourselves, or in this case commission from gauge making specialists.
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After all this care, time, attention and
patience we are left with our raw, ready to be finished parts!
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The next step is feathering. There
are a couple of challenges in this process. The first one is how to hold
such a small part. This leads to a complex exercise in jig-making. The
jigs used to hold our parts take weeks to design and make. They go
through many iterations to land on the right approach.
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The feathering is done on a machine called a
surface grinder. Surface grinding is an extremely accurate method of
removing small amounts of material in a very controlled way. It takes
years of expertise to master this machine by tradespeople called
"toolmakers". James, our in-house toolmaker is an expert and only after
nearly 20 years of experience, is he comfortable with this type of work.
The type of abrasive wheel used is a critical part of achieving the
right finish. In fact we tried numerous different combinations of wheel
and coolant to arrive at our own "titanium feathering recipe".
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Dial Anodising
The base dial is now cleaned and prepared for anodising. Funnily enough
your fingertips are some of the best cleaning implements available! The
textured surface of your fingers allows for dirt to be trapped and taken
away from the surfaces you clean. In combination with soap and
detergents we manually clean each base dial. It's imperative that the
dials are free from any residual oils, so 99.9% Isopropyl alcohol bath
in an ultrasonic cleaner is the final cleaning step.
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Titanium anodisation is an extremely complex electrochemical process, but in essence a Titanium dioxide (Titania, which is a ceramic!) film is grown on the surface of the material. The thickness and the structure of this film layer is responsible for diffracting light, which gives colour.
Titanium can be anodised within a well defined spectrum, but achieving
bright vibrant colours that are not "dull" is a strongly guarded trade
secret. This is a function of the electrical voltage and current applied
during the anodisation process, the temperature of the bath, the
quality of the bath, the room humidity, how the raw surfaces have been
chemically prepared and the overall process cleanliness... basically
chemical magic. Unfortunately this is not something we can share.
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The faceted and feathered parts as well as
the numerals are then assembled onto the freshly anodised dial by very
lightly pressing the feet of the parts into the holes in the base dial.
These dial feet are then laser welded from behind to ensure that they are secured strongly onto the dial. More on that process in a future installment!
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Next... Pad Printing (to be continued).
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NOTE: We have received a number of inquires in regards to the pricing of the MK2.
It is obvious that the price will depend on the number of
watches produced in a batch. Based on your pre-sale interest, we expect
that the production run would be 50 watches at price of $6,900 (plus box
and strap). Producing fewer watches would result in a higher price;
making any more will choke our manufacturing capacity.
If you wish to register your interest, please send us an email to mail@clockmaker.com.au
Unfortunately we are not taking deposits or partial payments. Once your
watch is ready for delivery, you will be notified with sufficient time
to make a full payment.
More technical details will be provided next week, but for now: the MK2
is based on a Swiss made Soprod automatic movement, 40mm stainless steel
case, on a leather strap. Titanium guilloche dial, markers and hands,
as well as complete assembly is done 'in house'. Manufactured in
Australia.
A completely assembled MK2 "Curl Curl" topaz blue is available for viewing at our Sydney showroom. To check it out and try the watch on, please make an appointment. | | |
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