The proper way

 

Horology is the study of mechanical watches. And today, you will learn how to answer the most important horological question: what makes a watch horologically important in a traditional, true-watchmaking sense?  When you figure this out, you will be able to 'judge' every mechanical watch the same way a traditional master watchmaker like Breguet would. You would simply see the watch through Breguet's eyes. The concept is simple, yet fascinating: the more complex the watch is, the more valuable it should be. A 'time only' watch is the starting point. A watch with a calendar is more complex, therefore more valuable. If a watch can measure lapsed time (like a stop watch) then such a timepiece is even more valuable. The more 'complications', the better. Each additional feature requires more complex engineering, more parts working together and a reduction in size. An automatic stop watch displaying day, date and month, as well as a 24 hour format is a very complex piece of machinery. Indeed, the most famous watchmakers of all time like Louis Breguet or Alfred Lange, have spent their entire lives squeezing more parts into a ever smaller cases. For them, complexity was the most important matter. Here is a practical example:

Can you tell which one of the two watches is more horologically important? Which one would Breguet buy? In a true horological sense, watchmaking is not about branding, colour scheme, size or even water resistance. Unfortunately, rightly or wrongly, our perception of what should be valued is a result of relentless marketing by megabrands, shaped by online influencers.  As of this moment - and forever on- when handed a watch, the first thing you should do is assess the watch for what it does. Ignore everything else.  Triple calendar chronograph. Moon phase chronograph. Dual time alarm. Or, just a humble 'time only' piece. Because this is what it is.  Only after that, you can move forward: to assess the quality of workmanship and design. Then, the maker and brand name. Always in that order.