What Kind Are You?

Watches aren’t going anywhere. No matter what 'big tech' tries to strap onto our wrists, there will always be people who buy, collect, and actually wear watches. I don’t see that slowing down for the next 30 years.

But the so-called collectors aren’t one big happy family. They’re a jungle of sub-species - each with its own quirks, excuses, and questionable logic. After decades in the trade, here’s my field guide:

The Magpie
Collects purely by eye. Beauty, shape, style - if it sparkles, it’s in. The collection ends up a dozen or so watches with nothing in common… except they all look fantastic. Worn daily, shuffled like a deck of cards.

The Sentimentals
A drawer full of Dad’s, Mum’s, and Uncle’s watches. The crown jewel? The twenty-first. Milestone pieces with heart-swelling stories, but almost no resale value. To them, that’s the point.

It’s All About Money
The biggest group of all. Watches aren’t worn - they’re spreadsheets. Each piece is a “strategic asset,” purchased only to appreciate in value. Collecting? No. Market speculation in steel cases.

The Hoarders
Quantity over everything. Two hundred watches and counting - cheap, pricey, broken, doesn’t matter. The joy isn’t in wearing them, it’s in stacking them like firewood.

The One-Watch Guy
Owns a single watch but still stares longingly at every new release. His loyalty is ironclad, but he lives in permanent horological FOMO. Prudence has its virtues… but also its torments.

The Purist
Obsessive, tunnel-visioned, and miserable. Worships craftsmanship - but only if stamped with his chosen brand’s logo. Often correct, rarely fun at parties.

The Dodgy Guy
Knows shit nothing about watches, but needs somewhere to park excess cash. Approach with caution - or better yet, don’t approach at all.

The Bling Dude
Dodgy’s younger cousin. Breitlings iced like a bakery, Rolex Presidents with aftermarket bezels, and other atrocities. Proof that money can’t buy anything of importance..

The Sophisticated Collector
My favourite. Builds thematic collections - often chronographs - tracing a brand’s evolution. Thrives on the hunt for that elusive missing piece. Informed, connected, respectful. The grown-up in the room.

The Rolex Man
Nothing beats Rolex. A full-blown love affair with his AD. His fantasy? A long weekend in Geneva - with the AD, of course.

The Surgeon / Lawyer
After an 18-hour shift, drenched in blood or buried in briefs, he has just enough strength for one click: “I’ll take it.” For him, a new watch isn’t a trophy, it’s therapy. Brutal, honest, well-earned. Respect.

"I like it"
He just likes it - a perfect fit on the wrist, a nice dial, really good looking. He’s happy.
No need to overthink, overdo, or impress anyone. Life is simple, worth living. Watches are fun - meant to be liked and enjoyed. It’s as simple as that.

Happy collecting.
NH                         

The watch you can't get from Seiko

At the moment, Seiko is the king of the limited release, super quirky and unique watches - pushing the boundaries of design and innovation to deliver a plethora of new and fresh ideas in the world of watch design. This one is no exception to that rule. In fact, this watch may be the greatest example of this to date. Because Seiko is celebrating their 140th anniversary this year, they wanted to create a watch which highlighted their rich heritage as a company, as well as their connection to Japanese culture. In particular, they wanted to highlight the Ginza district in central Tokyo, which is of great importance to Seiko. Ginza was where the company’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, opened a shop selling and repairing clocks and watches in 1881, when he was just 21 years old. Today, Ginza is still where the company is located. For more than 120 years, a Seiko clock in Ginza has kept Tokyo on time. The Seiko clock looks down on Ginza’s most famous crossroads from the roof of the Wako store where one of the world’s largest Seiko flagship stores is located. Nearby are other Seiko establishments, including the Seiko Museum, a boutique dedicated to Seiko Prospex, and Seiko Dream Square, where people can experience each collection’s rich heritage and the unique worldview of Seiko. Seiko's Flagship store in Ginza When first looking at this watch, the main feature is obvious. The dial is absolutely stealing the show. But what is even cooler than this dial is the inspiration behind it: "The intricate pattern of the dial incorporates two different sunray patterns which, as the viewing angle changes, create ever-changing impressions that capture the texture and feel of Ginza’s cobblestones. The seconds hand pays homage to the district’s history with Komparu, a traditional Japanese colour named after Komparu Street, where Ginza’s nightlife was once centred. This blue colour with a soft green tone which was first used in the middle Meiji era (1868 - 1912), instantly found favour among the many geishas who lived there and then gradually became a popular colour amongst the public." Whether you love this watch for just the unique visual display of the dial, or the incredible backstory tied to it's creation, it is obvious that people have noticed just how cool it is - it is already sold out from Seiko's boutique. Some people are already trying to cash in on the hype on Chrono24, with all the listings above the selling price. Crazy! Today is your lucky day because Seiko has been kind enough to send us one of the 3500 pieces from this release. If you were looking for this watch or you've now fallen in love with it, jump on it - I doubt we will ever see this one again. We will even throw in an NH leather strap and buckle to go with the watch at no extra charge! Seiko Prospex SPB259J1 Limited edition - one of 3500 pieces Brand new, 38mm case, steel, screw lock crown, 200m water resistance, made in Japan, 6R35 Automatic Movement

Easy $1,000. In cash!

The winner takes it all. Let's have some fun. And YOU will be the judge. Yes, we are heading back to the 1980s and the golden days of disposal film cameras. We'll keep it simple: 1.  Buy a disposable Ilford Ilfocolor camera from us ($19 plus postage) https://shop.clockmaker.com.au/home/317-ilford-ilfocolor-rapid-retro.html 2. Take your best shots - any subject, any occasion, the world is your oyster! 3. Send your camera to Do Film! Lab in Darlinghurst (see below for details) for development and scanning (special price $13), or your favourite film lab. 4. Pick your best image and email it to mail@vintagecamera.com.au no later than December 1, 2021. 5. If selected, your photos will be published in our newsletter, to be voted on by fellow subscribers.  6. The winner will be announced on December 16.   One camera, one entry. Be quick - we only have 100 cameras for this competition. You can collect your camera from our shop, or have it mailed. Feel free to share, invite your friends and relatives. Let's keep film and film developers in business; and most importantly: let's preserve some precious moments for years to come. Do Film! Lab: 257 Crown St, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 Sydney 0439 363 456 team@dofilmlab.com.au Trade promotion organized by Sydney Watches Pty Ltd, 21 October 2021. By entering the competition, sender agrees for images to be published / reproduced for promotional and advertising purposes. On offer for Australian Subscribers only.

NH3 project update

The main 'body' of the watch has been assembled last Friday. The components you see on the photo have been manufactured entirely in our workshop - all except the ruby jewels. The 3/4 bridge has been finished with our custom design 'woven guilloche', straight graining, anglage (chamfering), and high gloss black polish. With another 'all time, in house first', the gold plating. Gold plating is a trade in itself, getting an even surface layer that will not interfere with tolerances, neither to thin or too thick, without any blemish is quite a challenge. But we've got it! The next step in the project is the manufacturing of our crown wheel, ratchet wheel, click and click spring. Stay tuned for more! At this stage we are not sure about dial and hands, but the movement will be cased in a 45mm titanium case, the same one as with the previous NH1 and NH2 Timascus models. NH3 will contain the most number of Australian made watch parts, in house gold plating and unique finishes. In other words, it will be our "most Australian made" watch ever. Right now we are not taking orders because the final price is still to be worked out. Our price target is $5,900 for standard dial and hands, and $8,900 for our own in house dial and hands. The total production run will be 25 watches. Expressions of interest are welcome, but no orders yet. Thank you for your ongoing support.

You can find more about NH3 on our Instagram:  https://www.instagram.com/nicholashackowatch/

SEIKO OF THE DAY

JUST RELEASED: Special Asian only Edition SEIKO PROSPEX SRPF35K1 We've got it! PVD coated case,  42.4mm with Hardlex crystal with big magnifier on olive green silicon strap. ~~~ Special Asian Edition ~~~ Note the rather unusual asymmetric crown guard!  $795 two only in stock. Ready for immediate FREE delivery. 3+2 years guarantee.

NH2.1 assembled last night

 

What can we say? We are glad it's completed, assembled, adjusted and ready to go on display. One thing is certain: J20/25 was NOT a labour of love. It was purely hard work, day after day, month after month. A project which squeezed out all of our enthusiasm, the last micron of our machining capabilities, and one which tested our ability to work together and not to bite off each others heads. Trust me, we were close. Why? Because we set our goals high: NH2.1 is our most complex mechanism yet. It features a dozen newly 'manufactured in Australia' components in timascus, titanium, bronze and steel. It features both watch parts and machining processes which have not been made or developed in Australia in the past. Most importantly, each and every component in J20/25 has been finished to the absolute best of our ability; form  hardening, particle blasting, polishing, anodizing to 'black mirror finishes'.  As you may know the NH series movement architecture has been based on the ETA oscillation unit and gear train. The NH1 kicked us off with the development of our main plate and bridges, the fundamental building blocks of the movement architecture. We then moved to the NH2, where we started innovating with material choice for these main plates and bridges, using Timascus, a 3- part titanium, patterned alloy. We also innovated from a technical standpoint, with introducing slight improvements to the escapement with the addition of banking pins, which the watchmaker can adjust manually to set the beat error of the oscillator.  The NH2.1 is a natural progression in the improvement of our calibre, with the development of an updated winding gear train. A new crown wheel, ratchet wheel, click and click spring, gave us the ability to finely tune the winding feel of the movement. Furthermore, the new crown wheel mounting design gave us the community to add some more Timascus to the movement! From an aesthetic standpoint, a major innovation was the development of titanium screws. These screws are completely made in-house, using Grade 5 titanium, commonly used in the medical field. Anodization allows us to experiment with different colours, outside of the regular ferritic oxide layer colours (straw, maroon, blue)- we can now develop extremely deep blues, yellows, greens and purples. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first and only time anyone has ever used titanium screws in watch movement architecture. Beyond all this, developing the NH2.1 pushed us even further - we developed our own unique tooth profile for the crown wheel to ensure smooth running of the winding system. We also focused heavily on hand finishing extremely delicate components like the click and click spring. For that reason, NH2.1 is much more than a watch. It is a "one of a kind" watch that a new owner can take to ANY watch boutique anywhere in the world - from Lange to Patek, from JLC to IWC, and the boutique staff will be impressed because the magic of timascus, the finishes, anodized titanium and overall design, is something they have not seen before. Yes, there are countless more complex, more expensive, more exciting watches out there - yet NH2.1 is simply a special one: proudly and unashamedly designed, manufactured, hand finished, assembled and adjusted in Australia, by Australians. Price $14,800

Happy faces - welcome to Seiko!

 It is official - as of today, we are now an "AD" for Seiko watches. We are excited!

Seriously? Seiko? 

Well to be honest, I would much prefer a Patek or Rolex dealership. However, there is a serious side to this.

Since Rolex left the watch scene, Omega has quickly filled the void. Masterful move, except for one, Omega created a new spot in the entry level price range - around $2,000- $3,000.

A spot that should easily be taken by Seiko; a company which aligns nicely with our own ambitions, needs and expectations.
Not to forget the obvious: Seiko already offers a great range of watches in the $500- $1500 price range.

I can not think of a better 'everyday' replacement for your Omega James Bond than a Seiko ProSpex. A mechanical watch that looks cool, a watch you can wear and scratch without feeling guilty about it. A perfect present for a fellow watch enthusiast, work mate, fellow watch collector or young boy. Or, just another watch that you should add to your collection.

Let's be honest here: a brand new Seiko which will last you for 20 years, for less than a Swiss brand leather strap?
Give me just one reason to NOT to stock Seiko please.

Let's get the ball rolling.

Three watches today:

a super cool looking Divers for $1200, entry level Seiko 5 for just $495, and a Limited edition solar 'Root Beer' in an amazing pelican box for just $995.

Yes, these are full Seiko retail prices. I have checked online websites, and yes, you can find some of them online at a lower price than ours. But buying a watch from NH is not the same as buying a watch from anyone else. 

Here is the deal: I am happy to extend the original Seiko guarantee from 3 to 5 years. I am also happy to throw in free delivery Australia-wide. And if anything ever goes wrong with your Seiko, you call me DIRECTLY and I'll solve your problem: I will fix it.

Things that make us go crazy

Charles Darwin wrote: "The sight of a feather in a peacock's tail, whenever I gaze at it, makes me sick!"

What a statement! And this is precisely how I felt when a master Guilloche artisan demonstrated the fine art of pattern making during our visit to Cernier.

But before we can go any further with this it is crucial to get familiar with Cernier itself.  Cernier is the former capital of the district of Val-de-Ruz in the canton of Neuchatel, Switzerland.According to one pedantic administrator Cernier had an area of 9.1 square kilometres . Of this area, 4.98 km2 is used for agricultural purposes, while 3.44 km2  is forested.  Of the rest of the land, 0.68 km2 is settled (buildings or roads) and 0.01 km2 (2.5 acres) is unproductive land.

Talk about attention to detail...

Yes, you've got that right; a mere 9 square kilometres of land populated by precisely 2,223 people.  And, as the aforementioned administrator reports,  "...most of the population  speaks French (1,727 or 89.9%) as their first language, German is the second most common (63 or 3.3%) and Italian is the third (49 or 2.6%). There is 1 person who speaks Romansch. " 

(A small linguistic digression:  Romansch is the fourth official language in Switzerland.  I couldn't resist but to look it up: Romansh is divided into five different regional dialects (Sursilvan, Sutsilvan, Surmiran, Putèr, and Vallader), each with its own standardised written language. In addition, a pan-regional variety called Rumantsch Grischun was introduced in 1982, which is controversial among Romansh speakers.)

There you go…a district capital the size of a small Australian hobby farm with zero English-speaking inhabitants and a township where everything is measured, recorded, kept as is; the place where time has stood still for well over 800 years.

Cerniers don't rush. They don't throw things away, or hurry to modernise the way they do the craft of fine engraving, known as guilloche.  And why would they - when millions of watch enthusiasts worldwide go crazy at the mere sight of an engraved watch dial, bridge or a case?

Yann von Kaenel, a guillocher, kindly demonstrated his craftsmanship on a 130-year old machine. The trick is to go slowly, he said, and also to become one with the machine.  The rest is a matter of practice. 

I am not going to bore you with the technique itself.   In essence, guilloche is the play of light and shadows caused by intricate patterns in metal created by a movement of a sharp engraving tool - or as Yann explains - the magic which happens when shadow marries the light.

There are no two identical patterns or two identical watch dials and, as in the case of Darwin's peacock, some patterns will simply drive you crazy.

'So what do you do for living', Yann asked, looking in at my business card. 'You are a watchmaker? Are your customers interested in guilloche?'
'
Maybe, perhaps, one day - who knows?  Rebelde is as much Breguet as Parramatta is Neuchatel. But then again, who knows?  In a generation or two, someone from rebelde may visit your atelier to discuss the deal.   Cernier is not going anywhere anytime soon, right?'

We shook hands, and smiled at each other.   He appreciated my curiosity, and I admired his 
craftsmanship.

A brief moment in time, to be cherished forever…

Nick