Something still does

 

The latest incarnation of the Moonwatch is the Co-Axial escapement calibre 3861 — essentially, the old 1861 with a new heart. Obviously, the “Co-Axialization” across Omega’s entire range of movements has not spared the last true straight-lever legend. Without exception, every watchmaker worth their reputation would argue that the Co-Axial escapement is hardly a step forward in Omega’s evolution — and certainly not a seismic, earth-shaking event in global horology. While it does offer some negligible benefits in terms of timekeeping, the selling point has always been framed around claims of longer service intervals due to reduced wear and tear and less reliance on lubrication. Yet the escapement is just one of many building blocks inside a watch, and improving a single link in the chain does not necessarily make the whole chain stronger.

Over the past couple of years, we have worked on a number of new 3861 Moonwatches. Obviously, I am speaking from our own limited experience, based on a very small sample, but a pattern is emerging: there appears to be an issue with lubrication at the centre wheel.

The steel pivot running inside the bronze bushing tends to seize up. Whether this is due to inadequate lubricant, improper application, or incorrect quantity — it’s hard to say. But something is definitely off. A two- or three-year-old watch should not be developing power loss issues so prematurely. It would be really helpful if Omega commented, but I suspect a public statement is highly unlikely. Again, I am not pointing fingers — merely reporting what we have observed. However, there is another issue with the latest batches of Moonwatches that bothers me greatly: the decoration. The pattern on the mainplate is known as Geneva stripes. This traditional technique is now applied with modern CNC machinery, but extreme care must be taken not to alter the tool’s speed or angle of movement across the surface, as this results in an uneven and irregular finish. The key to Geneva striping is uniformity — and what we see, even on watches with display casebacks, is anything but refined, regular, or precise. Not only do the stripes vary significantly from watch to watch, but even within a single movement. The balance cock and bridges often look as though they were produced with a great deal of inconsistency. The pictures say it all. Here are three photos of the 3861 movement. You can see that the balance cock, 4th wheel bridge, and main bridge stripes are finished very differently.

And here is another lot, from a different watch.

I am trying to remain calm, professional, and even as kind as possible — but this is Seagull-level decoration. It would be unacceptable on a $3,000 watch, let alone on a $15,000 flagship model. Many makers have mastered CNC Geneva striping to absolute perfection — Grand Seiko and Patek Philippe, for example. Even a lesser Swiss-made movement like the Soprod, decorated in Switzerland for our Mark I and Mark II watches, offers far greater consistency and visual pleasure.

The truth is, the Speedmaster Professional 321 and 861 movements were never intended as breathtaking examples of horological decoration. These were hardworking, robust, and reliable chronographs — easy to service and built to last for decades, running ten, twenty, even thirty years without attention. Unlike those legendary pieces, the latest Moonwatch lives in a different space — marketed and sold to a different kind of collector, at a price only they could justify. If you’re in doubt — whether to invest in a brand-new piece or a vintage Speedmaster from the ’70s or ’80s — my suggestion is to take your time. I always say: nothing beats a brand-new watch. But today, I feel — something still does.

There is no doubt that most readers will struggle to see the difference in finishes and perhaps ask, “What’s really wrong here?” The best way to answer that question is to compare Omega’s decoration with that of A. Lange & Söhne. The benchmark was set a long time ago — if it doesn’t look like a Lange, then there’s plenty of room for improvement.