The online rug traders

 

Surely, you have seen this everywhere: websites selling entry and mid-level watches at an unbelievable discount. Out of respect, I have marked out the actual brand name (Swiss, in business since 1837). Quite frankly, I am embarrassed on the brands' behalf. But rug traders are not.

Seiko watches too can be bought online. There is not the slightest doubt that more and more brands will offer watches online, including the most prestigious Swiss makers. It is just a matter of time.   But are we ready? By we, I mean everyone in the retail chain - from brands themselves and retailers, to customers.   The question is: why would you buy a Seiko from us, the watchmakers, instead of from a 'rug trader' - an online shop? Especially since we do our best to stick to recommended retail price, while online traders offer heavily discounted stock. Why shouldn't you pay less?   Of course, if paying less is your only goal then the choice is obvious: go online.   However, before you do so - let me present our case:   1. Seiko watches are supplied to retailers in 3 categories: common stock, mid-range, and top end. Online distributors have no access to the top range. As a top level authorised dealer, we will carry a full range including 'Boutique Only models and Limited Edition pieces'.   2. Our long term plan is to stock Grand Seiko, the crème de la crème. At this moment this is a vast improbability, but to sell Seiko at discount will not help us work our way up the ladder. Online discounters don't care about high end horology, we do.   3. We offer an extended 3+2 years guarantee on all Seiko watches.   4. You pay retail price, but you will get a premium service: dealing with watchmakers you can trust blindly is worth a lot to a watch collector and a watch enthusiast.    5. FREE delivery Australia-wide.   6. Our intention is to run trade promotions, so buying a new Seiko will automatically get you in the draw for a chance to win a watch (or two!). At the end of this year we are giving away two Seiko, one valued at $1300 and one at $490. Since we are not really a volume retailer, the chances of winning are actually pretty decent.   The next two points are something I came up with last night:   7. Every watch will be checked before shipping for timekeeping and if needed, adjusted to best of its ability to keep time. Online sellers can't offer you this service - and quite frankly not even the major jewellers. We can.   8. Insurance valuation - FREE of charge! Hundreds of watches are stolen or go missing every day. If you wish to insure your Seiko then we would be happy to offer a free valuation. And because we keep all invoices on file forever, we can easily update your valuation in years to come - at no extra cost. Can an online discounter match this offer?    Again, we have neither the intention nor the time to get into a discounting war with anyone. Discounting is sign of impotency, poor business practice, and disrespect to the product you sell which ultimately leads to limited choices and questionable post-sale practices.   Of course, once we build up our relationship with Seiko and prove ourselves as a serious partner, then certainly we may be in a position to get a better deal on some models - and that saving will be passed onto you - our loyal supporter.

The Bat Cameron ONLY $795

 

If there's two things in watch forums that is synonymous with the pairing of blue and black on a dive watch, that would be  A. James Cameron  B. Batman  Well this watch pairs both of those ideas, the blue, black, silver trio reminiscent of the Batman’s infamous original costume and the fact that it is a Seiko Turtle - ‘The original James Cameron’. Not to mention that it also has a blue/black gradient dial.  The Seiko Prospex line up is the ultimate ‘wear and forget, until you need it’ watch series and this one is no different.  This watch is the pinnacle of Seiko’s effort to modernise traditional watch designs while still remaining true to its roots, and it is a culmination of everything that a modern redesign should be. Regardless if you’re using this while engaging in ocean exploration or using it to fend off enemies as a vigilante, this watch is the perfect modern tool watch for the job.  S4 - Seiko Prospex SRPF15K1 20 Bar, 44.3mm case size, Hardlex crystal, 4R36.  3+2 years guarantee. Free delivery. Price: $795

There has been a big shift from major brands over the past few years to rerelease modern remakes of vintage watches, or vintage ‘inspired’ watches. Quite frequently they just end up being a copy, paste of a vintage matte dial Rolex with a few subtle changes or just a reproduction of an older model with a modern calibre for an exorbitant amount more than the original watches retail price.  This Seiko offers that nostalgic vintage feeling that everyone is after, but without taking advantage of it. It features their classic SKX style dive case with a black bezel but with a twist on their usual design; An off white chapter ring, crème coloured hour markers and hands set this watch apart from their other dive watches, but my favourite part is the shimmering deep grey dial that catches light in just the right way. It comes on a mesh style rubber strap and to top it off, it even has an exhibition case back.  This isn’t just a simple vintage recreation, this is a modern classic, all for the price of a couple steel Rolex links. S44 - Seiko 5 Sports Ref. SRPD73K2 10 Bar, 42.5mm case size, Hardlex glass, Silicon strap. 4R36 3+2 years guarantee. Free delivery. Price: $499

The original James Cameron

 

The Seiko turtle is considered to be one of the most iconic Seiko’s of all time. It more than just a cheap ‘beater’ automatic tool watch, it symbolises the basis of a perfect dive watch. There has been no-one more iconically obsessed with ocean exploration in the past few decades than multi award winning director James Cameron. So much so that Rolex named their star watch in their dive watch line up; the deep sea, with blue and black gradient dial, after him. James Cameron’s first film about his great passion, the ocean, was his 1989 hit film ‘The Abyss’. ‘The Abyss’ is a story about a team of daring engineers and military personnel sent to the deepest parts of the ocean on a recovery mission to a nuclear submarine that had sunk under mysterious circumstances. One of the main characters ‘Bud’, an engineer, played by Ed Harris, is seen throughout the film wearing the iconic Seiko turtle with a black dial and rubber strap. Whether it was James Cameron personally or a just a costume designer that chose that watch, the Seiko made a starring role in this iconic James Cameron film, his first solo directorial on the ocean, making this the original James Cameron. This Seiko turtle SRPE93K1 is a modern incarnation of the Seiko 6309 originally featured in this film. Watch code: S8. Price: $725

How much would you expect to pay for this?

 

- Ceramic bezel - Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating and cyclopes over date - automatic movement in 43.8mm case and 20bar water resistance? Not a cent more than $960. But here are three more things I absolute love about Seiko Prospex SRPE37K: the checkered dial, knurled winding crown and metal keeper on the silicon strap. You see, back in the day (1970s) everyone wanted the checkered dial. Actually, buyers would pay a premium to snatch a Seiko 5 with a checkered dial. I don't know why, but not many Swiss brands still offer checkered dial watches. Apart from AP and Patek that is. Black or white? It is definitely the white checkers that stand out more prominently, but either is fine with me. The knurled crown is simply a mark of a professional instrument: easy grip, serious look. And one would think that having an unbreakable metal keeper on a thick, heavy duty diver watch would only make sense. Pull it as tight you want, it will never snap. I guess if Rolex came up with one it would be the most revolutionary and prized invention available for "only $390 but currently not in stock". Yes, $960 for a brand new watch which comes with 3+2 years guarantee and free delivery. On todays offer: white SRPE33K on silicon band ($960) and black SRPE35K on metal bracelet ($995).

I hate late night meetings

 Last night was no different. As much as both Josh and myself avoid discussing touchy issues at midnight, this one could not have been avoided. And quite frankly I didn't see it coming.

"Why are you spending so much time promoting Seiko? You should promote our own watches. One day, in maybe 5 years or even sooner, Seiko will get rid of you and you will end up like any other discarded Swiss 'authorised dealer' out there."

Make no mistake - Josh is a fantastic maker, and without him there would be no NH watches. But our project is much more complex than just NH watch. In order to grow, we need locally trained, clever, enthusiastic young watchmakers. And my role is not to promote our watches. My role is strictly defined: to create an environment that will allow us to grow. From building a workshop and importing machinery and tools, to the training of new apprentices. Growth takes time. Growth takes patience. Growth needs money.

To blame a salesman for being enthusiastic about Seiko is like blaming a terrier for being enthusiastic about chasing rabbits. I've spent decades spruiking second hand Omegas, Rolex, and Breitling. I got nothing in return. Not even a lousy Christmas card. And while Swiss brands were doing their best to prevent me repairing their watches and providing an honest service to their customers, I have nothing against the watches themselves. 

Unlike the Swiss, Seiko does respect us - and always has. Most importantly, many of our customers absolutely love Seiko watches. At this stage, Seiko does not restrict supply of spare parts to independent watchmakers. If they ever decide to follow the path of Swiss megabrands, or to close our dealership - then I will re-evaluate my stance. But Seiko was always good to us. My grandfather sold Seiko, and my dad still sells Seiko. So will I - and so should Josh.

Seiko simply makes sense. There are only so many Omega buyers out there, and even fewer people who can afford a $20,000 sports Rolex. Yet every person you see on the street, in the food court, or on the bus to work, is a potential Seiko customer. Millions of people in this town alone could easily afford a brand new, retro looking, robust Seiko watch. Selling just two Seiko watches per week would provide wages for one full time employee. It's as simple as that.

Seiko is no longer a $250 watch. Surely there is plenty of room for improvement (better bracelets, expansion into ladies' range, better timekeeping) but as the prices of new watches are going up, Seiko will have more room to make even better watches.

Our watch - the NH2.1 - is no longer a watch. It is a mechanical piece of art. And art is extremely difficult to sell. Artists have no choice but to do what they do. They don't chase customers. They don't scream 'buy my art'. They don't beg. Most of them struggle until death and die anonymous and poor. That's art for you. But that piece of art which will outlive the artist, bearing the maker's name, will provide enjoyment and pleasure for generations to come. 

Our customers understand what our project is all about. Many of them are great supporters and will continue to support us, and help us grow. We are blessed because at the end of the day, it's the journey that matters, not the destination.                         

SEIKO Prospex Save the Ocean

 

If there is one thing I don't ever take for granted, it has to be YOUR TRUST. I am extremely proud of the fact that the vast majority of you trust me blindly. You trust me with your money, your most precious watches; you trust my valuations and expertise. Of course we may disagree on almost everything else, but that is irrelevant. Today, I am ready to offer you another opportunity to take our trust to the next level. Here, in front of me are two amazing Seiko watches: Save the Ocean Prospex (professional specifications) SRPE33K. These two watches are so stunning  that I simply don't want you to miss the opportunity to own one. Why? Because I am convinced that Save the Ocean is going to be your favourite everyday watch -  a 'crown piece' in your Seiko collection. Here is the story and reason why you should invest in one. A few years ago, Seiko introduced the first Save the Ocean piece with a unique dial in a design inspired by the blue whale. It was a success. The second generation featured rolling waves with a subtle fin of a lurking Great White shark. This time, the blue dial features 3 manta rays .  This is a collection in the making. This is what separates the Seiko Save the Ocean collection from the rest of the 'divers' watches by Swiss brands. The dial finish is simply amazing - form, composition, design to execution. The very reason why Save the Ocean will be forever popular with generation after generation of watch enthusiasts and retain it's value in years to come. Here is the deal: if you open the box and you feel that I have oversold this Seiko to you, I will take it back for immediate full refund. Then, I will send you a personal, hand written note with $100 as an apology for letting you down.  By trusting me you have nothing to lose, zero risk and your full satisfaction is guaranteed. "Bloody hell Nick, you were right, I LOVE IT" is the only outcome and only option. Price: $995

What is RESTORATION?

 

Before we go any further, let's consult a Cambridge dictionary: Restoration: the act or process of returning something to its earlier good condition. Hardly any room for misinterpretation: fixing a broken watch and returning it to an 'earlier good condition' is essentially a restoration. What is not defined as a restoration is regular maintenance: ensuring that a watch which is already in good working order continues to perform for another period of time - until it's due for next scheduled maintenance. We call this kind of work regular servicing. The recent YouTube video opened a floodgate of comments: "Oh, that video is not a Rolex restoration, it is just a video showing a lots of parts being replaced, not restored." Those comments unfortunately come from ignorant viewers who simply lack the basic understanding of the restoration process. Was the watch broken at the beginning of the restoration process? Yes. Actually, it was at the point of a total write-off. Has it been returned in working order? Yes. The end of the story. However, what may confuse some viewers is the misplaced hope that almost all 100 of the rusted out parts will be restored themselves, individually, one by one. Well, if that was the case, the video would be titled: "restoration of winding stem" or "restoration of barrel arbour" and would have taken 6 months. But the end result of such lengthy 'restoration' would be a total disaster. Finely machined then rusted out watch parts are not designed to be restored. A rusted escape wheel cannot be restored. Ditto to the rest of them. Except for some bridges and in some rare cases, the base plate which holds all components together. We call that part the 'mainplate'. Due to the fact that it is made of brass which is non-ferrous (not containing iron, therefore no rust) metal, the mainplate can be restored. Since the mainplate contains pressed in steel pins, jewels, and internally and externally threaded steel posts, which are not meant to be removed because they are factory set and adjusted, restoration of the mainplate is time consuming and has to be undertaken with great care. This is a very difficult job and could take days - if not weeks. The mainplate is the only part which has been restored in the video. So the video should be titled: "Restoration of rusted Rolex and restoration of Rolex 3185 mainplate". Not one, but two restorations. Read the comments - and you can easily spot the difference between viewers who clearly get it (and appreciate it) and those who are unfortunately clueless about watchmaking.  Again, nothing personal, but if we want to call ourselves students of horology, then we should be able to tell the difference between restoration and servicing. As well to understand why watch parts like gears, pallets, springs, and levers could not and should not be restored - they won't work, the watch won't perform reliably and most likely it won't keep time at all.  I strongly recommend that you do watch our rusted Rolex restoration video, especially now knowing what to expect. Yes, almost all parts are replaced, the main plate is restored, and the delicacy comes from the fact that the mainplate was restored so precisely that the watch was returned to it's almost like new working condition, with correct amplitude, beat error, and daily timekeeping rate. Again, not bad for a complete write-off.  Want to have some fun? For a brief moment, there is a shot of our 'freedom mug'. The tenth viewer to email us the timestamp of its appearance will receive our freedom shirt. We will list the first 10 names in the next newsletter.

The photo of the restored Rolex calibre 3185 mainplate. Made out of brass, finished with perlage and rhodium plated bearing the Rolex serial number. Watch the video here: https://youtu.be/r8g7tyzRjDc

RUSTY Rolex Restoration - the video you've been waiting for!

 

A full 3 weeks of restoration, recording, and editing. The upload to YouTube itself took almost two days. You will notice the difference: Bobby's videography is simply next level.  A bit of background: this 1996 Rolex GMT Master II suffered badly. Soaked in water, it spent two years in a drawer. The amount of rust was unbelievable. Actually, apart from the case and bracelet, only 8 of close to 100 internal parts were preserved.  But the core challenge was to preserve the mainplate: the very base of the watch that hold all components together. The main plate bears the Rolex serial number and preserves the very identity of the watch. If the mainplate is replaced, that GMT Master II is no longer the same watch. Of course, Rolex would not bother with any of the restoration I undertook. They would simply replace the entire movement. Even a half brained monkey can do that kind of 'restoration'. Instead, I've spent a whole week soaking the mainplate in vinegar, dissolving and removing the rust, brushing it of, reaming out broken screws, and inserting new jewels and posts. Finally, the main plate was rhodium plated and you, the viewer, will have a hard time believing it is the same component. Would I and could I do it again? That depends on the availability of Rolex spare parts. The current state of supply of parts to Australian independent watchmakers is unchanged since 2013: none, zero, and no chance. My parts box is now almost empty and new replacement parts are now so expensive that any restoration work is next to impossible. In a way, this video should simply be titled: "The last Rolex restoration". R.I.P. Rolex. Watch it here: https://youtu.be/r8g7tyzRjDc

NH2.1 assembled last night

 

What can we say? We are glad it's completed, assembled, adjusted and ready to go on display. One thing is certain: J20/25 was NOT a labour of love. It was purely hard work, day after day, month after month. A project which squeezed out all of our enthusiasm, the last micron of our machining capabilities, and one which tested our ability to work together and not to bite off each others heads. Trust me, we were close. Why? Because we set our goals high: NH2.1 is our most complex mechanism yet. It features a dozen newly 'manufactured in Australia' components in timascus, titanium, bronze and steel. It features both watch parts and machining processes which have not been made or developed in Australia in the past. Most importantly, each and every component in J20/25 has been finished to the absolute best of our ability; form  hardening, particle blasting, polishing, anodizing to 'black mirror finishes'.  As you may know the NH series movement architecture has been based on the ETA oscillation unit and gear train. The NH1 kicked us off with the development of our main plate and bridges, the fundamental building blocks of the movement architecture. We then moved to the NH2, where we started innovating with material choice for these main plates and bridges, using Timascus, a 3- part titanium, patterned alloy. We also innovated from a technical standpoint, with introducing slight improvements to the escapement with the addition of banking pins, which the watchmaker can adjust manually to set the beat error of the oscillator.  The NH2.1 is a natural progression in the improvement of our calibre, with the development of an updated winding gear train. A new crown wheel, ratchet wheel, click and click spring, gave us the ability to finely tune the winding feel of the movement. Furthermore, the new crown wheel mounting design gave us the community to add some more Timascus to the movement! From an aesthetic standpoint, a major innovation was the development of titanium screws. These screws are completely made in-house, using Grade 5 titanium, commonly used in the medical field. Anodization allows us to experiment with different colours, outside of the regular ferritic oxide layer colours (straw, maroon, blue)- we can now develop extremely deep blues, yellows, greens and purples. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first and only time anyone has ever used titanium screws in watch movement architecture. Beyond all this, developing the NH2.1 pushed us even further - we developed our own unique tooth profile for the crown wheel to ensure smooth running of the winding system. We also focused heavily on hand finishing extremely delicate components like the click and click spring. For that reason, NH2.1 is much more than a watch. It is a "one of a kind" watch that a new owner can take to ANY watch boutique anywhere in the world - from Lange to Patek, from JLC to IWC, and the boutique staff will be impressed because the magic of timascus, the finishes, anodized titanium and overall design, is something they have not seen before. Yes, there are countless more complex, more expensive, more exciting watches out there - yet NH2.1 is simply a special one: proudly and unashamedly designed, manufactured, hand finished, assembled and adjusted in Australia, by Australians. Price $14,800

Zaratsu - The King of Polishing

If you're familiar with Seiko, then you surely have heard of Zaratsu polishing. Zaratsu is a technique where the whole case is polished by hand, to absolute perfection. For a case polisher, it takes decades of practice to master the Zaratsu techniques, and only a selected few top grade Seiko watches are polished this way. Zaratsu is Zen of Japanese watchmaking. But where does the word Zaratsu comes from; In 1951 Seiko made a significant investment into Swiss polishing machinery and they were acquired by Gebruder Sallaz. The workers in the Seiko factory fell in love with them but pronounced Sallaz as Zaratsu. The rest is history - decades of sweat and tears in persuit of perfection. In our collection we have two Zaratsu Seiko.  The first one is SLA021J, a tribute to Japan's first diver's watch created in 1965. This special diver's watch is equipped with a high-grade automatic movement, calibre 8L35, which is hand assembled and adjusted by Seiko's master watchmakers at the Shizukuishi watch Studio in Morioka. A resilient one piece structure case, suitable for saturation diving, is hand polished using the Zaratsu technique which accentuates the edges and brings the additional sharpness and beauty to the lugs.  Each of the three hands has a different design, length, and width and the LumiBrite on each has a distinct shape so that the time is easily read under any circumstances. The dual curved sapphire delivers exceptional clarity from any viewing angle as well as enhanced durability. The differentiated 12, 6 and 9 markers ensure that the watch can be read without error even 300 metres down. The contrast of the dial and special, long lasting LumiBrite allow for legibility even in the darkest environments. The one way rotating bezel ensures the absolute safety that divers require. The photos of the mirror-finish reflection on the case speak for themselves. I have handled thousands of Swiss made watches and this is something you only see at the very top end of Swiss horology. Even then, Swiss cases are not hand polished, but finished by robots.

Happy faces - welcome to Seiko!

 It is official - as of today, we are now an "AD" for Seiko watches. We are excited!

Seriously? Seiko? 

Well to be honest, I would much prefer a Patek or Rolex dealership. However, there is a serious side to this.

Since Rolex left the watch scene, Omega has quickly filled the void. Masterful move, except for one, Omega created a new spot in the entry level price range - around $2,000- $3,000.

A spot that should easily be taken by Seiko; a company which aligns nicely with our own ambitions, needs and expectations.
Not to forget the obvious: Seiko already offers a great range of watches in the $500- $1500 price range.

I can not think of a better 'everyday' replacement for your Omega James Bond than a Seiko ProSpex. A mechanical watch that looks cool, a watch you can wear and scratch without feeling guilty about it. A perfect present for a fellow watch enthusiast, work mate, fellow watch collector or young boy. Or, just another watch that you should add to your collection.

Let's be honest here: a brand new Seiko which will last you for 20 years, for less than a Swiss brand leather strap?
Give me just one reason to NOT to stock Seiko please.

Let's get the ball rolling.

Three watches today:

a super cool looking Divers for $1200, entry level Seiko 5 for just $495, and a Limited edition solar 'Root Beer' in an amazing pelican box for just $995.

Yes, these are full Seiko retail prices. I have checked online websites, and yes, you can find some of them online at a lower price than ours. But buying a watch from NH is not the same as buying a watch from anyone else. 

Here is the deal: I am happy to extend the original Seiko guarantee from 3 to 5 years. I am also happy to throw in free delivery Australia-wide. And if anything ever goes wrong with your Seiko, you call me DIRECTLY and I'll solve your problem: I will fix it.

With a half life of 1600 years, radium is here to stay

 

The other day, yet another vintage Rolex came in for repair. The original dial and hands were well preserved with a rather heavy and thick coating of luminous material. A perfect collectors’ example. However, this was a bit worrying as the 1930s luminous material was a mixture of phosphor and radium, and while the phosphor no longer glows, the radium is still as potent as it was 90 years ago. Clearly before we proceeded with disassembly, we needed to measure the radioactivity level, and the ensuing reading was undoubtedly concerning. 4 micro-Sieverts per hour, about 6 times more than the safe level. I called the customer to let him know that while I have no problem repairing the watch, a restoration would make little sense as, if he were to wear the watch for 8 hours a day, he would be exposed to the same levels of radiation as flight attendants or nurses working in a hospital. There are two problems with radium. One is the radiation itself and secondly the creation of radon gas. I am not an expert in this field, but it is the radon gas that is far more harmful than the radiation which comes off the watch dial. A single World War II military watch with a heavy coating of radium can blast 20 µSv/hour or more, which 40 times the safe level. The same goes for military Panerai watches, and if you have a collection of a few stored in a safe deposit box you are protecting yourself from radiation, but not radon gas. According to well documented medical research, radon gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer, with smoking being the first. Radioactive substances are invisible killers and should be taken seriously. If you have a watch with radium dial, and you come in, I would be more than happy to assist. If you wish to dispose of it, call the specialists: https://www.industry.gov.au/strategies-for-the-future/australian-radioactive-waste-agency Here is an interesting article on recent findings of radium in the Swiss watchmaking industry. "Nearly 1,000 watchmaking buildings and workshops in Switzerland could be contaminated by radium, a radioactive element that was used to add luminescence to watch dials and hands until the 1960s." https://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/watchmaking-fallout_one-thousand-swiss-buildings-could-be-contaminated-with-radium-/44070300 And here is the photo of the radiation level of the watch we recently restored. Safe to wear! You can find the link to the entire restoration here: https://youtu.be/iJv5vGt2Us0

Finally a whole box of railway pocket watches, again well within a safe level. Bottom line is collect railway pocket watches and avoid military.