These are protoytpes, just in this morning, but if you'd like one please express your interest so we can work out quantities.
Email josh@clockmaker.com.au now.
Available in black and red and can be worn all year round.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Thursday, July 28, 2016
rebelde caps
***Hey, good news - we're working on rebelde caps!
These are protoytpes, just in this morning, but if you'd like one please express your interest so we can work out quantities.
Email josh@clockmaker.com.au now.
Available in black and red and can be worn all year round.
Happy collecting,
Nick
These are protoytpes, just in this morning, but if you'd like one please express your interest so we can work out quantities.
Email josh@clockmaker.com.au now.
Available in black and red and can be worn all year round.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Swiss Not Happy
***Export of Swiss Watches in
Decline
Swiss watch corporations are freaking out: the latest data shows that the export of Swiss watches has declined for 11 consecutive months. The reason apparently is the high Swiss Franc and the price of gold. Richemont Group just fired 350 people and Omega is apparently contemplating doing the same.
While this explanation may sound plausible to shareholders, the problem is far more complex. The price of gold is on the rise, but gold is still 30% cheaper than it was in 2012/13 when export was booming.
In May, Richemont CEO Richard Lepeu said Swiss watchmakers "should never be arrogant" and shouldn’t rule anything out. "Technology's progressing very fast, and we never know what might happen."
Lepeu is referring to smart phones. Once again, it appears that Swiss underestimated the impact of new technology: except for TAG, no major Swiss watchmaker is interested in getting into the smart watch business.
However, in my opinion the real reason for a decline in export and sales is a more obvious one: the price of Swiss watches went through the roof. The product is simply too expensive and there are only so many watch buyers who can afford to spend $10,000 on a new timepiece every few months. The other even more obvious reason is the crazy idea that Swiss watches should be sold exclusively throughout 'brand boutiques'. Getting rid of independent retailers who were able to sell volumes of watches at somehow discounted prices is now firing back. Just a few years ago, one could have bought a new Omega watch from a number of dealers located from North Shore to Parramata. Today, there is just one independent AD who still has an Omega account.
The solution is simple: lower the prices, open more independent retail accounts, make the spare parts available to independent watchmakers and watch your export sales go through the roof.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Swiss watch corporations are freaking out: the latest data shows that the export of Swiss watches has declined for 11 consecutive months. The reason apparently is the high Swiss Franc and the price of gold. Richemont Group just fired 350 people and Omega is apparently contemplating doing the same.
While this explanation may sound plausible to shareholders, the problem is far more complex. The price of gold is on the rise, but gold is still 30% cheaper than it was in 2012/13 when export was booming.
In May, Richemont CEO Richard Lepeu said Swiss watchmakers "should never be arrogant" and shouldn’t rule anything out. "Technology's progressing very fast, and we never know what might happen."
Lepeu is referring to smart phones. Once again, it appears that Swiss underestimated the impact of new technology: except for TAG, no major Swiss watchmaker is interested in getting into the smart watch business.
However, in my opinion the real reason for a decline in export and sales is a more obvious one: the price of Swiss watches went through the roof. The product is simply too expensive and there are only so many watch buyers who can afford to spend $10,000 on a new timepiece every few months. The other even more obvious reason is the crazy idea that Swiss watches should be sold exclusively throughout 'brand boutiques'. Getting rid of independent retailers who were able to sell volumes of watches at somehow discounted prices is now firing back. Just a few years ago, one could have bought a new Omega watch from a number of dealers located from North Shore to Parramata. Today, there is just one independent AD who still has an Omega account.
The solution is simple: lower the prices, open more independent retail accounts, make the spare parts available to independent watchmakers and watch your export sales go through the roof.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Celebrating Inquisitiveness
***When it comes to watchmaker lathes and manual turning, my skills
could be best described as at novice level. I am more familiar with 'large'
clockmaker-size work and tool making, something you do on a Myford ML7 size
lathe.
Earlier today I was looking at carbide and tungsten gravers blanks, suitable for hand engraving of fine pivots. The seller was located in the US and the price was right - but what really dampened my enthusiasm was a line above the tool description: "If you need instructions on how to use it then it is not for you".
A statement like this is both arrogant and obnoxious. Mastering hand engraving is a life-time journey and any piece of information that would come with a new tool would be more than welcome. Lathe work is like playing a guitar; each player has their own technique, of which some are better than others.
When it comes to the precision, speed, accuracy and repeatability of turning then every detail, no matter how unimportant it could be, could make the difference between a good job and a fantastic job. If a seller is unwilling to share their knowledge then I really don't want to do any business with them.
The same applies to our customers. The watches we sell - both new and preowned – do require some level of 'introduction' to the new owner. While I have handled tens of thousands of watches in my lifetime, I am often surprised with a function or a detail I haven't noticed before. Just couple weeks ago, a buyer of an Omega Moonwatch asked me if the 1861 Calibre was fitted with a hack function. I really couldn't remember - despite disassembling that very same calibre hundreds of times.
Asking questions should be encouraged, and inquisitiveness should be rewarded, not ridiculed.
Unfortunately the way we teach - from kindergarten to postgraduate studies - is by flooding the students with knowledge expecting them to absorb it without providing any feedback in return. No wonder kids hate school, teachers are frustrated and customers are unhappy.
Nick
Earlier today I was looking at carbide and tungsten gravers blanks, suitable for hand engraving of fine pivots. The seller was located in the US and the price was right - but what really dampened my enthusiasm was a line above the tool description: "If you need instructions on how to use it then it is not for you".
A statement like this is both arrogant and obnoxious. Mastering hand engraving is a life-time journey and any piece of information that would come with a new tool would be more than welcome. Lathe work is like playing a guitar; each player has their own technique, of which some are better than others.
When it comes to the precision, speed, accuracy and repeatability of turning then every detail, no matter how unimportant it could be, could make the difference between a good job and a fantastic job. If a seller is unwilling to share their knowledge then I really don't want to do any business with them.
The same applies to our customers. The watches we sell - both new and preowned – do require some level of 'introduction' to the new owner. While I have handled tens of thousands of watches in my lifetime, I am often surprised with a function or a detail I haven't noticed before. Just couple weeks ago, a buyer of an Omega Moonwatch asked me if the 1861 Calibre was fitted with a hack function. I really couldn't remember - despite disassembling that very same calibre hundreds of times.
Asking questions should be encouraged, and inquisitiveness should be rewarded, not ridiculed.
Unfortunately the way we teach - from kindergarten to postgraduate studies - is by flooding the students with knowledge expecting them to absorb it without providing any feedback in return. No wonder kids hate school, teachers are frustrated and customers are unhappy.
Nick
Tuesday, July 26, 2016
Putting things into perspective
***Putting things into perspective
This morning we talked about the size of watch components we routinely handle in our workshop.
Any craftsman - a violin maker for example - would have no problem cutting and measuring a piece 1 millimetre thick. But our watch components are much finer and smaller. For example, the escape wheel pivot is 15 times thinner than a millimetre. And a hair spring is just 20 microns thick (one micron is one thousands part of a millimetre).
To put things into perspective, we took a photo of micrometre jaws holding the hairspring.
We shone the light from behind the instrument so you can see the gap between the 'jaws'.
Without the light, the gap is not visible to the naked eye.
The majority of vintage watches suffer from poor handling so hair spring alignment is often part of the service. To make the coils perfectly concentric is an art form - this job is done by hand using fine tip tweezers and without any special magnification, except the eye-glass. And this is what you learn to do in the third year of a watchmaker apprenticeship.
A 20 micron part is literally the cutting edge of fine mechanical engineering and it is obvious why watchmakers are so proud of their skills. A person trained to handle such fine work is a priceless asset to society - and if you know how to repair watches then you can be easily trained to handle any 'larger' components in the medical, optical or electronics industries.
Sydney TAFE is the last remaining teaching faculty for aspiring Australian watchmakers. Only 12 watchmakers enrol in the 3 year course each year because Australian watchmakers are not taking up the apprentices.
And the main reason why knowledge and skills are not passed on is simple: the calculated and precisely executed restriction of the supply of spare parts to independent watchmakers by big Swiss brands is causing devastating effects. Yesterday I had a conversation with a Swiss colleague who said that even Swiss watchmakers are very upset by the restrictions and corporate greed which is causing loss of jobs in Switzerland.
But the small rebelde team keeps marching on - and we are looking for another young and talented person to join us. If you wish to become a watchmakers apprentice or know someone who is excited about practical micro-engineering then spread the word.
Happy collecting,
Nick
This morning we talked about the size of watch components we routinely handle in our workshop.
Any craftsman - a violin maker for example - would have no problem cutting and measuring a piece 1 millimetre thick. But our watch components are much finer and smaller. For example, the escape wheel pivot is 15 times thinner than a millimetre. And a hair spring is just 20 microns thick (one micron is one thousands part of a millimetre).
To put things into perspective, we took a photo of micrometre jaws holding the hairspring.
We shone the light from behind the instrument so you can see the gap between the 'jaws'.
Without the light, the gap is not visible to the naked eye.
A 20 micron part is literally the cutting edge of fine mechanical engineering and it is obvious why watchmakers are so proud of their skills. A person trained to handle such fine work is a priceless asset to society - and if you know how to repair watches then you can be easily trained to handle any 'larger' components in the medical, optical or electronics industries.
Sydney TAFE is the last remaining teaching faculty for aspiring Australian watchmakers. Only 12 watchmakers enrol in the 3 year course each year because Australian watchmakers are not taking up the apprentices.
And the main reason why knowledge and skills are not passed on is simple: the calculated and precisely executed restriction of the supply of spare parts to independent watchmakers by big Swiss brands is causing devastating effects. Yesterday I had a conversation with a Swiss colleague who said that even Swiss watchmakers are very upset by the restrictions and corporate greed which is causing loss of jobs in Switzerland.
But the small rebelde team keeps marching on - and we are looking for another young and talented person to join us. If you wish to become a watchmakers apprentice or know someone who is excited about practical micro-engineering then spread the word.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Thursday, July 14, 2016
Rolex Servicing
Probably the most common inquiry we get is “do you do Rolex
repairs?”
The short answer is; it depends.
The short answer is; it depends.
With the current workload of rebelde watches to be
assembled, every moment in the workshop is priceless. In other words, rebelde
is, and always will be, our priority. However, there is always that great sense
of satisfaction that comes from the repair or restoration of a Rolex watch that
was written off as unrepairable or too old to be repaired by Rolex themselves.
Our bottleneck is the availability of genuine Rolex spare parts. Since Rolex no longer supports independent watch makers in Australia, we are forced to search for genuine parts worldwide. In general, the restriction of spare parts makes them more expensive and it takes longer to get them. So if you’re not in a hurry then in most cases, yes, we can help you.
The other group of customers that we are able to help are the owners of vintage Rolex watches who prefer to keep the watch in as an original condition as possible. When it comes to servicing and replacement of spare parts, our golden rule is to preserve the original dial and hands, bezel and bracelet; which means our goal is to preserve the authenticity and collectability of the Rolex, rather than to turn them into factory-new condition.
Our bottleneck is the availability of genuine Rolex spare parts. Since Rolex no longer supports independent watch makers in Australia, we are forced to search for genuine parts worldwide. In general, the restriction of spare parts makes them more expensive and it takes longer to get them. So if you’re not in a hurry then in most cases, yes, we can help you.
The other group of customers that we are able to help are the owners of vintage Rolex watches who prefer to keep the watch in as an original condition as possible. When it comes to servicing and replacement of spare parts, our golden rule is to preserve the original dial and hands, bezel and bracelet; which means our goal is to preserve the authenticity and collectability of the Rolex, rather than to turn them into factory-new condition.
The third group of customers are Rolex owners who simply
find Rolex servicing prices unreasonably high. If you need an independent second
opinion and a second quote then again, most likely, we would be able to help
you.
The final group of customers are those who find our service
more down-to-earth and who prefer a more intimate relationship with the watchmaker.
To them, we simply can’t say no.
Our speciality is vintage Rolex sports models like the Submariner,
GMT Master, Explorer and, of course, Datejust.
In most cases, the complete overhaul/restoration cost would be around AUD
$850.
The only restriction is we don’t work on watches manufactured after 2010, we work only on the older watches.
The only restriction is we don’t work on watches manufactured after 2010, we work only on the older watches.
Happy collecting,
Josh
Sydney Watches Pty Ltd is an independent watch repair
service centre, not affiliated with nor authorised by Rolex, Switzerland.
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
1973 Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655/0
Rolex Explorer II 1973
Big projects call for big
decisions.
To finance the acquisition of a CNC watchmaker’s mill, I will be reluctantly parting with one of the watches from my private collection: 1973 Rolex Explorer II.
Stainless steel case and bracelet, case size: 40mm. Black dial.
To finance the acquisition of a CNC watchmaker’s mill, I will be reluctantly parting with one of the watches from my private collection: 1973 Rolex Explorer II.
Stainless steel case and bracelet, case size: 40mm. Black dial.
What is special about this piece is that it was acquired from its original owner - a gentleman who bought it in 1973.
The watch has been overhauled by Rolex a few years ago and has not been worn since.
It comes with the original
Rolex box and two service guarantee cards - from 2004 and 2013. The serial
numbers and model reference numbers are clearly visible and match the paperwork.
This Rolex Explorer II with
the bright orange hand is one of the most popular vintage Rolex models and is
sought after by serious collectors. However this particular watch has been
meticulously restored so it is perfectly suitable to be worn daily - if you
choose to do so.
It goes without saying that
my preference is for the watch to remain in Australia. My price is AUD $27,000
+ GST. However, if the watch is to be exported, then the export price is
USD$20,900.
Available for inspections:
please call for an appointment.
Panerai PAM 112 Twins
Hey, Josh here.
Two
identical Panerai PAM 112 arrived to our workshop with the same problem: a broken
main spring.
Obviously Panerai is not in the business of impressing watchmakers.
Happy collecting,
Josh
This doesn’t happen every day so I thought “let’s frame it”.
Working on two watches simultaneously is great fun. And the job
can be completed almost as fast as when you’re working on one piece. The
Panerai were powered up by ETA 6497-2 movements.
The only thing that left me under-impressed was the Perlage
finish of the main plate. The only finishing was done on the externally visible
parts of the main plate, whereas the areas under the bridge were left raw and
unfinished. This would be as if a painter painted your whole house, but not the
areas covered by furniture.
Obviously Panerai is not in the business of impressing watchmakers.
Happy collecting,
Josh
Monday, July 4, 2016
Announcing rebelde50
At exactly 10pm on August 19, 1930 the arch was successfully joined.
Dr JJC Bradfield, the Chief Engineer and father of the Sydney Harbour Bridge could hardly contain his excitement: it was his vision, engineering expertise and detailed supervision of all aspects of its construction which had brought the long-held dream into reality.
The bridge was almost ready, and soon, the last of the 6 million Australian-made rivets were driven through the bridge platform. The following month, it was test-loaded with 96 steam locomotives. Eighty-five years later, it stands as firm and as strong as on that day it was finished.
Engineer Bradfield was a dreamer - but in his mind, from the very beginning of the project, he knew exactly what he was doing: he was building an imposing piece of stone and metalwork which would last for generations.
So did Utzen, when he designed the Sydney Opera House.
The rebelde office is located in the Culwulla Chambers Building - another monumental Sydney project. It was built in 1911 and at that time, it was the tallest building in Sydney. Actually, it remained the tallest building in NSW for the next 50 years!
Great ideas, big dreams and grand plans don't always become a reality. But for those that do, they appear to have something in common: the vision to achieve and accomplish something that will last for generations.
This week Josh and I have built two watchmaker’s benches in our workshop. Of course, we could have easily ordered them from Switzerland, but we choose to build them ourselves. Josh picked thick Queensland Maple and Tasmanian Oak planks and we spent 3 long weeks cutting and polishing this magnificent Australian wood. The benches are now almost ready, and we are proud of our workmanship: the 2.8m long double bench contains not one screw or nail. Many nights we stayed up well past midnight, sometimes arguing, sometimes joking, yet we thoroughly enjoyed the project. At times when we felt tired and discouraged we told each other that if we could not build the best watchmaker’s bench ever, then we don't deserve to design and build a watch and that thought kept us going. The bird-eye spots in the maple are just magnificent. The thick bench will easily outlast many watchmakers who will work on it.
The bench is here to stay, as well as Culwulla Chambers, the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge we cross twice every day. There is simply something money cannot buy: the feeling of lasting achievement.
In the day and age when goods are built to last for only a year or two - five if you are lucky - Josh and I are proud to be part of something much larger and much more lasting. Today, we would like to offer you a very special opportunity: to become an owner of a watch which will not only last for the next fifty years, but which will be GUARANTEED to be fully operational for next 50 years.
Our offer is simple: if you invest in rebelde50, your watch will come with our written guarantee that for the next 50 years you will not have to spend one cent on servicing or spare parts replacement and this will include even a leather strap replacement! We will take full care of your watch and whenever it needs any repair, you will just bring it to Culwulla Chambers and we'll repair it FREE OF CHARGE for the next 50 years!
Yes I know this offer sounds absolutely crazy, but hey - we are serious and we are committed to offer you something no other watch brand in the world can. I sincerely hope I will be around long enough to look after your rebelde50 for at least the next two decades. And Josh who is now 18 will ensure that your rebelde50 is ticking at least until his retirement in 2066.
No one knows what the future will bring. But we know that the Harbour Bridge is here to stay and that if we think big and bold then rebelde will be here to stay as well. If Josh and I can't help you personally, someone else will. The idea of a 50 years guarantee is powerful enough that it will always attract one clever watchmaker who will proudly take the project over and look after your watch.
We are ready to take your order for a limited edition of 50 pieces of rebelde50. You pay a one-off price of $5,000 for your watch and you will never, ever, for the next 50 years have to pay one cent for servicing or parts. It’s simple as that.
We are not in a hurry so take your time to decide. Whether we sell one or fifty pieces is totally irrelevant: what matters is the message we are sending out: rebelde is here to stay and we are committed to a project like no other watchmaker out there. With an offer like this, once again, we have proven that rebelde has no competition. If you wish to become a part of our big dream then you are more than welcome to join us - not only as a customer but as a visionary. Your support is truly appreciated.
rebelde50
Technical description:
- Batch of 50 pieces, individually numbered F01 to F50
- Case: 44m Surgical Steel 316L brush/high polished
- Pilots-style ribbed bezel
- Sapphire crystal top, see-through case back crystal
- Movement: Honey Gold Plated Swiss movement with rebelde laser-engraved bridge. Exclusively custom-made for rebelde swan neck regulator and gold balance wheel.
- Manual wind.
- Water resistance: 10 bar
- Leather strap and rebelde steel buckle
- Guaranteed for fifty years: rebelde50 comes with 10 complete overhauls at 5 yearly intervals and up to 20 leather straps. Guarantee includes parts and labour. (*Damage resulting from lack of care/accidental damage will not be covered by guarantee)
- Price: $4,545 + GST (AUD $5,000)
Note: we are planning on re-issuing some of our standard sold-out models of Pilots and Control Tower in the future. The price of stainless steel models will remain the same at $2,500.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Dr JJC Bradfield, the Chief Engineer and father of the Sydney Harbour Bridge could hardly contain his excitement: it was his vision, engineering expertise and detailed supervision of all aspects of its construction which had brought the long-held dream into reality.
The bridge was almost ready, and soon, the last of the 6 million Australian-made rivets were driven through the bridge platform. The following month, it was test-loaded with 96 steam locomotives. Eighty-five years later, it stands as firm and as strong as on that day it was finished.
Engineer Bradfield was a dreamer - but in his mind, from the very beginning of the project, he knew exactly what he was doing: he was building an imposing piece of stone and metalwork which would last for generations.
So did Utzen, when he designed the Sydney Opera House.
The rebelde office is located in the Culwulla Chambers Building - another monumental Sydney project. It was built in 1911 and at that time, it was the tallest building in Sydney. Actually, it remained the tallest building in NSW for the next 50 years!
Great ideas, big dreams and grand plans don't always become a reality. But for those that do, they appear to have something in common: the vision to achieve and accomplish something that will last for generations.
This week Josh and I have built two watchmaker’s benches in our workshop. Of course, we could have easily ordered them from Switzerland, but we choose to build them ourselves. Josh picked thick Queensland Maple and Tasmanian Oak planks and we spent 3 long weeks cutting and polishing this magnificent Australian wood. The benches are now almost ready, and we are proud of our workmanship: the 2.8m long double bench contains not one screw or nail. Many nights we stayed up well past midnight, sometimes arguing, sometimes joking, yet we thoroughly enjoyed the project. At times when we felt tired and discouraged we told each other that if we could not build the best watchmaker’s bench ever, then we don't deserve to design and build a watch and that thought kept us going. The bird-eye spots in the maple are just magnificent. The thick bench will easily outlast many watchmakers who will work on it.
The bench is here to stay, as well as Culwulla Chambers, the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge we cross twice every day. There is simply something money cannot buy: the feeling of lasting achievement.
In the day and age when goods are built to last for only a year or two - five if you are lucky - Josh and I are proud to be part of something much larger and much more lasting. Today, we would like to offer you a very special opportunity: to become an owner of a watch which will not only last for the next fifty years, but which will be GUARANTEED to be fully operational for next 50 years.
Our offer is simple: if you invest in rebelde50, your watch will come with our written guarantee that for the next 50 years you will not have to spend one cent on servicing or spare parts replacement and this will include even a leather strap replacement! We will take full care of your watch and whenever it needs any repair, you will just bring it to Culwulla Chambers and we'll repair it FREE OF CHARGE for the next 50 years!
Yes I know this offer sounds absolutely crazy, but hey - we are serious and we are committed to offer you something no other watch brand in the world can. I sincerely hope I will be around long enough to look after your rebelde50 for at least the next two decades. And Josh who is now 18 will ensure that your rebelde50 is ticking at least until his retirement in 2066.
No one knows what the future will bring. But we know that the Harbour Bridge is here to stay and that if we think big and bold then rebelde will be here to stay as well. If Josh and I can't help you personally, someone else will. The idea of a 50 years guarantee is powerful enough that it will always attract one clever watchmaker who will proudly take the project over and look after your watch.
We are ready to take your order for a limited edition of 50 pieces of rebelde50. You pay a one-off price of $5,000 for your watch and you will never, ever, for the next 50 years have to pay one cent for servicing or parts. It’s simple as that.
We are not in a hurry so take your time to decide. Whether we sell one or fifty pieces is totally irrelevant: what matters is the message we are sending out: rebelde is here to stay and we are committed to a project like no other watchmaker out there. With an offer like this, once again, we have proven that rebelde has no competition. If you wish to become a part of our big dream then you are more than welcome to join us - not only as a customer but as a visionary. Your support is truly appreciated.
rebelde50
Technical description:
- Batch of 50 pieces, individually numbered F01 to F50
- Case: 44m Surgical Steel 316L brush/high polished
- Pilots-style ribbed bezel
- Sapphire crystal top, see-through case back crystal
- Movement: Honey Gold Plated Swiss movement with rebelde laser-engraved bridge. Exclusively custom-made for rebelde swan neck regulator and gold balance wheel.
- Manual wind.
- Water resistance: 10 bar
- Leather strap and rebelde steel buckle
- Guaranteed for fifty years: rebelde50 comes with 10 complete overhauls at 5 yearly intervals and up to 20 leather straps. Guarantee includes parts and labour. (*Damage resulting from lack of care/accidental damage will not be covered by guarantee)
- Price: $4,545 + GST (AUD $5,000)
Note: we are planning on re-issuing some of our standard sold-out models of Pilots and Control Tower in the future. The price of stainless steel models will remain the same at $2,500.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Friday, June 24, 2016
Dirty Deeds
We had a very special visitor today in the office to
meet with Nick: former AC/DC bassist and the nicest guy ever, Mark Evans. Mark
came into the office to collect his 'Mark' rebelde pen and to sign Nick’s
personal copy of his autobiography. ‘Dirty Deeds - My life inside and outside
of AC/DC’ is the only AC/DC book written by the actual band member. Together
Nick and Mark will be working on a very exciting project which you will find
out all about in due course. Trust me, it’s worth the wait.
Thursday, June 23, 2016
Welcome to Raven!
Hello all!
It’s time to introduce myself to the world of watch enthusiasts. My name is Raven, and I’m from a small seaside town in the north of England named Cleethorpes. It’s my second day here at Nicholas Hacko Fine Watches and I’ve been welcomed into the quaint office with warming arms. Feeling a little foreign to the magic of time keeping surrounding me, I sit with Nick and talk about his life’s work. Yesterday was only day one into the watch business and what better way to be introduced to the industry than to learn all about the “Rolls Royce of polishing stones”. These are the words of Nick. It’s difficult not to share Nick’s excitement when you can plainly see how hard he and his team have worked in order to one day possess these silky-smooth Japanese stones.
It’s time to introduce myself to the world of watch enthusiasts. My name is Raven, and I’m from a small seaside town in the north of England named Cleethorpes. It’s my second day here at Nicholas Hacko Fine Watches and I’ve been welcomed into the quaint office with warming arms. Feeling a little foreign to the magic of time keeping surrounding me, I sit with Nick and talk about his life’s work. Yesterday was only day one into the watch business and what better way to be introduced to the industry than to learn all about the “Rolls Royce of polishing stones”. These are the words of Nick. It’s difficult not to share Nick’s excitement when you can plainly see how hard he and his team have worked in order to one day possess these silky-smooth Japanese stones.
Whilst Nick was informing me of their quality, they were compared to when a musician finally purchases that precious new amplifier they’ve always desired. And how Japanese products are always associated with quality and cost. Grades 8,000 & 1,200 these two stones can be used to polish the head of the screws before the blueing process and to sharpen the screwdrivers - ready for a new apprentice to join us soon. These things don’t currently make a great deal of sense to me, yet I can’t help but feel eager to begin my new position here with Nick and his team.
Japanese stones feel fresh, almost as though you wouldn’t want to use them in the fear of spoiling their fine exterior. I’m looking forward to starting a new role here in the office, alongside the new beginning which the King Deluxe & Gold Stone both have ahead of them here too. I’m here to fill the big shoes which Ellie will leave behind - we wish you the best of luck for the future Ellie!
Happy Collecting!
Raven
Saturday, June 11, 2016
Watchmaker's Apprentice Wanted: Sydney Watches Pty Ltd / rebelde
Watchmaker's Apprentice Wanted
* Hands-on training by third-generation Master Watchmaker
* CAD training
* Prestigious
Culwulla Chambers workshop in the middle of Sydney CBD
* Above-industry wages
* In conjunction with
Sydney TAFE Diploma - 3 years course
* Guaranteed
employment for the right candidate
* Opportunity to be
part of an Australian watch brand story
* Endless learning
opportunity: work on high grade mechanical watches
* Introduction to top
Australian watch collectors
* Further career
opportunities: Micro-Engineering, Design, overseas studies.
We are SPECIFICALLY looking for young and enthusiastic apprentices to undertake 3 years of Watchmaking study, aged 16-19 years. There is the possibility of accommodation assistance available for an interstate candidate. However we will consider all other applicants, regardless of age.
Send your CV/Resume to nick@clockmaker.com.au
Monday, June 6, 2016
Up and Running
***The second round of interviews
is scheduled for Thursday but I think I've already made up my mind.
Yes, I am talking about the first two rebelde apprentices who are to commence their training on July 1.
I am looking for a very certain profile and I think I've found what I am looking for. The first applicant would be perfect in the customer service area - he thrives on 'knowing things' but also on fixing things.
The second guy is probably a bit of an introvert, which is one of the core properties of a successful watchmaker. As a team, the two of them would be just perfect.
But the search is still open. I've been around long enough to know that things are not always as they appear to be. Nevertheless, I am very excited about new people joining the rebelde team.
Which propels us into a hive of activity in order to get us ready.
Yesterday we went to see Joao Joe Santos, our colleague and watch tools supplier.
And by us, I mean all of us! We've made it a Sunday affair, all with lunch at the Sultans Table.
I love dealing with Joe. He is the prodigious prototype of an anti-salesman.
Every tool and piece of equipment I wanted to add to my basket was questioned, assessed, taken out (I would put it back), and re-assessed. "Why do you want this particular tool? Are you sure? Wait, I'll have a better one in a few weeks’ time and it will be also cheaper."
You get the idea: Joe is not really interested in taking your cash. He simply loves what he does and he does not care about making profit. Which makes him a true asset to the Australian watchmaking community.
Who can say 'no' to a super-light ball-bearing fitted set of screwdrivers? Or pass on an unbeatable deal of Dumont tweezers? Do I need yet another hand removal tool @ $100? No, so I'll take two. How about this cool screwdriver sharpener? And my goodness, the punch tool for the Rolex rotor axel replacement is back in stock - so that goes in the basket as well.
"So you will let your apprentices use the finest Swiss tweezers?” asks Joe. Probably not, or at least, not for the first week, but they do need to see what is here, to tell the difference between non-magnetic, steel and some space-technology alloy. After all, watchmaking tools are a major part of the fun of being a watchmaker.
We loaded ourselves nicely and left Joe in the pouring rain, but excited about the new project.
Of course, there is a long list of tools on order, with more arriving in the next few weeks.
An automatic Swiss cleaning machine will be delivered by sea freight – a massive piece of equipment I have always wanted yet found no need to buy because the old manual one is still working just fine. A major capital investment, but hey - we need to get ready for rebelde watch servicing and we want to turn our workshop in a modern, well equipped facility, at least as good as major Swiss brands.
The Bergeon set of bezel removing tools was probably one piece of equipment I can live without. $1,250 for a set which will most likely sit unused for many years. But then again, it only takes that one job where you need a specialist tool - a job which will separate us from the rest of the crowd.
So here we are - ready to get back into action. Yes, the availability of spare parts is a major issue, and we don't expect any improvement any time soon. But with two new apprentices, there are still things we can and we should do. For example, we can easily get back into the battery replacement business.
We can offer very competitive prices and extremely fast turnaround times - something you simply don't get in the City. Young apprentices would need the opportunity to learn this relatively simple task and offer valuable service.
Let's be honest: battery replacement is not rocket science.
Many years ago, I was able to replace batteries in any type of watch – except Breitling Emergency Mission (this one requires a certified procedure) and a few obscure plastic-cased digital timepieces which are not really meant to be pulled apart.
So if you wish to keep my soon-to-arrive apprentices busy, then go through your drawers and find those 'dead' watches. Bring them in, mention this newsletter, and we’ll do you a very special deal: five watches/battery replacements for $50. This deal is for common timepieces like Seiko, or Swiss stuff under $1000 value.
Naturally we will charge more for Omega and TAG and similar pieces, and even more for Cartier and other luxury pieces of course, but still significantly less than the authorised service centres. And here is the beauty of this offer: if your watch needs a new seal or winding crown, or any other repair - we will let you know upfront and will quote accordingly. We will give you a CHOICE and this is what independent watchmaking is all about: a choice of who you deal with and choice of how much you will spend on a repair.
Yes, interstate jobs are welcome and we'll throw in free returns via registered shipping on any repair over $100.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Yes, I am talking about the first two rebelde apprentices who are to commence their training on July 1.
I am looking for a very certain profile and I think I've found what I am looking for. The first applicant would be perfect in the customer service area - he thrives on 'knowing things' but also on fixing things.
The second guy is probably a bit of an introvert, which is one of the core properties of a successful watchmaker. As a team, the two of them would be just perfect.
But the search is still open. I've been around long enough to know that things are not always as they appear to be. Nevertheless, I am very excited about new people joining the rebelde team.
Which propels us into a hive of activity in order to get us ready.
Yesterday we went to see Joao Joe Santos, our colleague and watch tools supplier.
And by us, I mean all of us! We've made it a Sunday affair, all with lunch at the Sultans Table.
I love dealing with Joe. He is the prodigious prototype of an anti-salesman.
Every tool and piece of equipment I wanted to add to my basket was questioned, assessed, taken out (I would put it back), and re-assessed. "Why do you want this particular tool? Are you sure? Wait, I'll have a better one in a few weeks’ time and it will be also cheaper."
You get the idea: Joe is not really interested in taking your cash. He simply loves what he does and he does not care about making profit. Which makes him a true asset to the Australian watchmaking community.
Who can say 'no' to a super-light ball-bearing fitted set of screwdrivers? Or pass on an unbeatable deal of Dumont tweezers? Do I need yet another hand removal tool @ $100? No, so I'll take two. How about this cool screwdriver sharpener? And my goodness, the punch tool for the Rolex rotor axel replacement is back in stock - so that goes in the basket as well.
"So you will let your apprentices use the finest Swiss tweezers?” asks Joe. Probably not, or at least, not for the first week, but they do need to see what is here, to tell the difference between non-magnetic, steel and some space-technology alloy. After all, watchmaking tools are a major part of the fun of being a watchmaker.
We loaded ourselves nicely and left Joe in the pouring rain, but excited about the new project.
Of course, there is a long list of tools on order, with more arriving in the next few weeks.
An automatic Swiss cleaning machine will be delivered by sea freight – a massive piece of equipment I have always wanted yet found no need to buy because the old manual one is still working just fine. A major capital investment, but hey - we need to get ready for rebelde watch servicing and we want to turn our workshop in a modern, well equipped facility, at least as good as major Swiss brands.
The Bergeon set of bezel removing tools was probably one piece of equipment I can live without. $1,250 for a set which will most likely sit unused for many years. But then again, it only takes that one job where you need a specialist tool - a job which will separate us from the rest of the crowd.
So here we are - ready to get back into action. Yes, the availability of spare parts is a major issue, and we don't expect any improvement any time soon. But with two new apprentices, there are still things we can and we should do. For example, we can easily get back into the battery replacement business.
We can offer very competitive prices and extremely fast turnaround times - something you simply don't get in the City. Young apprentices would need the opportunity to learn this relatively simple task and offer valuable service.
Let's be honest: battery replacement is not rocket science.
Many years ago, I was able to replace batteries in any type of watch – except Breitling Emergency Mission (this one requires a certified procedure) and a few obscure plastic-cased digital timepieces which are not really meant to be pulled apart.
So if you wish to keep my soon-to-arrive apprentices busy, then go through your drawers and find those 'dead' watches. Bring them in, mention this newsletter, and we’ll do you a very special deal: five watches/battery replacements for $50. This deal is for common timepieces like Seiko, or Swiss stuff under $1000 value.
Naturally we will charge more for Omega and TAG and similar pieces, and even more for Cartier and other luxury pieces of course, but still significantly less than the authorised service centres. And here is the beauty of this offer: if your watch needs a new seal or winding crown, or any other repair - we will let you know upfront and will quote accordingly. We will give you a CHOICE and this is what independent watchmaking is all about: a choice of who you deal with and choice of how much you will spend on a repair.
Yes, interstate jobs are welcome and we'll throw in free returns via registered shipping on any repair over $100.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Friday, June 3, 2016
Watch Talk Night Review
***Watch Talk Night: a brave bunch!
A special 'thank you' to the ten brave watch enthusiasts who made their way to rebelde headquarters last night.
To say that we had fun would be an understatement: it was, once again, one of those evenings when we all talked, listened, learned, exchanged ideas and really, had two hours of good time. Actually, it was well past 8:30pm when one of attendees invited me for a beer. After two and half hours of talks, he was ready for some more! My excuse was that I really don't drink - and he said - neither do I :-) I took this offer as a huge compliment and confirmation that there is a great need for us to get together more often. And yes, we will do more of 'WTN' horology this winter season.
The 'core' of the meeting was this crazy idea of the ‘responsible watch owners test'. After we together reviewed my first 6 lessons on basic horology, I asked the attendees to undertake the test. I have to say that I was bit nervous, and I guess some of the students were nervous too. But they put on their brave face and enthusiastically got into it.
Needless to say, they all passed with glowing colours: anyone who is keen to learn more about watches, time, horology and precision is already a winner.
I cannot speak in their name, but it was obvious that we managed to open that big box called watchmaking, to peek inside and get at least a glimpse of what horology is all about. Tanya and I arrived home at 10pm completely worn out but extremely pleased that we can host nights like this and enjoy the company of like-minded people.
Oh yes - I was really humbled when Aaron presented me with a Russian watch. Thank you mate - I really didn't expect this (nor saw it coming). I've spent a good 10 years repairing Russian watches and to this day I don't really know whether I like them or hate them :-). However Russian watches have their well-deserved place in the world of international horology and we should really talk more about them!
Happy collecting,
Nick
A special 'thank you' to the ten brave watch enthusiasts who made their way to rebelde headquarters last night.
To say that we had fun would be an understatement: it was, once again, one of those evenings when we all talked, listened, learned, exchanged ideas and really, had two hours of good time. Actually, it was well past 8:30pm when one of attendees invited me for a beer. After two and half hours of talks, he was ready for some more! My excuse was that I really don't drink - and he said - neither do I :-) I took this offer as a huge compliment and confirmation that there is a great need for us to get together more often. And yes, we will do more of 'WTN' horology this winter season.
The 'core' of the meeting was this crazy idea of the ‘responsible watch owners test'. After we together reviewed my first 6 lessons on basic horology, I asked the attendees to undertake the test. I have to say that I was bit nervous, and I guess some of the students were nervous too. But they put on their brave face and enthusiastically got into it.
Needless to say, they all passed with glowing colours: anyone who is keen to learn more about watches, time, horology and precision is already a winner.
I cannot speak in their name, but it was obvious that we managed to open that big box called watchmaking, to peek inside and get at least a glimpse of what horology is all about. Tanya and I arrived home at 10pm completely worn out but extremely pleased that we can host nights like this and enjoy the company of like-minded people.
Oh yes - I was really humbled when Aaron presented me with a Russian watch. Thank you mate - I really didn't expect this (nor saw it coming). I've spent a good 10 years repairing Russian watches and to this day I don't really know whether I like them or hate them :-). However Russian watches have their well-deserved place in the world of international horology and we should really talk more about them!
Happy collecting,
Nick
Monday, May 30, 2016
Lesson 6: Waterproof Watches Myth-Busting
***Waterproof Watches
Myth-Busting
A few years ago I said that there is no such a thing as a waterproof watch.
Little did I know that this statement would upset so many watch enthusiasts! The avalanche of replies could be summarized in one sentence: my Rolex/Omega is waterproof, and has been so for decades - so Nick, you don't know what you’re talking about.
But let me explain what I meant.
The whole idea of making a waterproof watch is really a novelty. For 500 years, watch and clock makers - and their customers - never really thought about 'waterproofing' timepieces. There was no need for waterproofing, and even if there was - one crucial element was missing: the high-tech materials capable of 'sealing' two surfaces. Nowadays, synthetic rubber o-rings are commonly used in many water-resistance applications, but the rise of o-rings was really a post-WW2 affair.
Another modern watch sealing material is Teflon - which really kicked into mass use in the 1970s. Teflon is commonly used as sealant between glass (crystal) and metal, and rubber as sealant between two highly-polished steel surfaces.
True water-resistant watches hit the market in the 1960s. The market leader was Rolex and Omega - and both companies are still regarded as makers of true divers’ watches. Of course, the competition has increased in the last two decades.
There are two myths associated with water resistance. The first one is the 'depth' in meters printed on the watch dial. In reality, that information is often the result of ambitious marketing rather than factual engineering. The second myth can be formulated like this: "Once waterproof, always waterproof". The truth is that for a watch to remain water-resistant, frequent maintenance is required: a new set of seals must be fitted at least every 3 years. In addition, a new winding crown (which contains o-rings inside) should be replaced as well. Only then will your watch be suitable for serious water-related activity.
No maintenance = no water resistance.
Vintage watches (watches older than 30-40 years) should NEVER be worn in the water. Avoiding shower and sauna is sign of sophistication and good-care practice.
Complete the blanks:
A responsible watch owner does not wear their watch in the ______________.
Seal replacement and water resistant test should be carried at least once every _____ years.
____________ watches should never been worn in water.
Happy collecting,
Nick
A few years ago I said that there is no such a thing as a waterproof watch.
Little did I know that this statement would upset so many watch enthusiasts! The avalanche of replies could be summarized in one sentence: my Rolex/Omega is waterproof, and has been so for decades - so Nick, you don't know what you’re talking about.
But let me explain what I meant.
The whole idea of making a waterproof watch is really a novelty. For 500 years, watch and clock makers - and their customers - never really thought about 'waterproofing' timepieces. There was no need for waterproofing, and even if there was - one crucial element was missing: the high-tech materials capable of 'sealing' two surfaces. Nowadays, synthetic rubber o-rings are commonly used in many water-resistance applications, but the rise of o-rings was really a post-WW2 affair.
Another modern watch sealing material is Teflon - which really kicked into mass use in the 1970s. Teflon is commonly used as sealant between glass (crystal) and metal, and rubber as sealant between two highly-polished steel surfaces.
True water-resistant watches hit the market in the 1960s. The market leader was Rolex and Omega - and both companies are still regarded as makers of true divers’ watches. Of course, the competition has increased in the last two decades.
There are two myths associated with water resistance. The first one is the 'depth' in meters printed on the watch dial. In reality, that information is often the result of ambitious marketing rather than factual engineering. The second myth can be formulated like this: "Once waterproof, always waterproof". The truth is that for a watch to remain water-resistant, frequent maintenance is required: a new set of seals must be fitted at least every 3 years. In addition, a new winding crown (which contains o-rings inside) should be replaced as well. Only then will your watch be suitable for serious water-related activity.
No maintenance = no water resistance.
Vintage watches (watches older than 30-40 years) should NEVER be worn in the water. Avoiding shower and sauna is sign of sophistication and good-care practice.
Complete the blanks:
A responsible watch owner does not wear their watch in the ______________.
Seal replacement and water resistant test should be carried at least once every _____ years.
____________ watches should never been worn in water.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Friday, May 27, 2016
Lesson 5: The Missing Link
***The Missing Link
The loss of lives and goods was disastrous – yet tragically this man-made disaster was completely avoidable. On April 19 1891, a fast mail train known as the No4 and a passenger train were sharing the same track. The engineer and conductor of the passenger train were given written orders to let the fast train pass at Kipton, a small station near Cleveland, Ohio.
As the train was leaving the station, the telegraph operator ran to the platform and verbally cautioned the engineer and conductor: "Be careful, the fast No 4 is running on time!"
The conductor replied: "Go to hell, I know my business".
What he didn't know was that engineers watch – the official timekeeper – had stopped the previous night for 4 minutes, then started ticking again. Shortly afterwards the two trains meet their destiny; the passenger train somehow managed to stop, but the fast mail train didn't even make an attempt to brake.
Following this disaster, the US Rail authorities found that many conductors on freight trains used cheap alarm clocks as master timekeepers. While the railroad service was expanding at a fast pace, the accuracy of railroad timepieces was completely inadequate.
From the ashes of the Ohio train disaster the phoenix rose in the form of the greatest American timekeeper: the great American railroad pocket watch; a watch unrivalled in quality and reliability.
By 1893 the General Railroad Standard for pocket watches were adopted:
"Be open face, size 16 or 18, have a minimum of 17 jewellers, adjusted to at least 5 positions, keep time accurately to within a gain or loss of only 30 seconds a week, adjusted to temperature of 34 to 100 Fahrenheit, have a double roller, steel escape wheel, lever set, micrometric regulator, winding stem at 12 o'clock, grade on back plate, use plain Arabic numbers printed bold and black on a white dial, and have a bold black hands".
The railman was required to buy a pocket watch more accurate than many scientific precision instruments used in laboratories, and the American pocket watch industry was compelled to produce such instrument. And to its credit, amazingly, it did.
For the next 50 years American railroad watches were amongst the finest, most accurate timepieces one could acquire. Produced to the highest standard, finely manufactured, perfectly adjusted, outshining and outperforming any Swiss mass-produced competitors.
Even today, a hundred years later, most Swiss wrist watches are just a pale shade of the American railroad pocket watches.
For many years, fine pocket watches were the mainstream of horological collections.
In comparison to pocket watches, most wrist watches produced between 1930s and 1960s were pathetically inferior, and as such, completely rejected by serious watch collectors.
Sadly, this trend has been reversed and the reviewal of pocket watches is highly unlikely. Modern Swiss manufacturing primarily focuses on mass-produced, average-quality, over-hyped and overpriced timepieces.
However even a novice watch enthusiast should at least have one pocket watch in his collection.
The pocket watch - the 'missing link' between the marine chronometer and your wrist watch - is out there, waiting to be 'discovered'.
In the early 1960s a Swiss watch movement manufacturer called Unitas developed a pocket watch mechanism which was regarded as robust and reliable, yet affordable enough to be fitted into pocket watches sold to the mass market.
Unfortunately, like a few similar pocket watch movements, this mechanism arrived on the horological scene too late. By the 1960s pocket watches were already out of fashion and further development on a mass scale made no financial sense. The movement was largely dormant, but thanks to its size, it was widely used as a learning tool for novice watchmakers. When large wrists watches became fashionable in the late 1990s, this very mechanism was 'discovered and resurrected' by Panerai and a couple of other small boutique brands who successfully reintroduced it to watch enthusiasts.
And this is the very same Unitas movement that ticks in your rebelde.
Complete the blanks:
Railroad _______________ are high quality precision timepieces, built to last for many generations.
Happy collecting,
Nick
The loss of lives and goods was disastrous – yet tragically this man-made disaster was completely avoidable. On April 19 1891, a fast mail train known as the No4 and a passenger train were sharing the same track. The engineer and conductor of the passenger train were given written orders to let the fast train pass at Kipton, a small station near Cleveland, Ohio.
As the train was leaving the station, the telegraph operator ran to the platform and verbally cautioned the engineer and conductor: "Be careful, the fast No 4 is running on time!"
The conductor replied: "Go to hell, I know my business".
What he didn't know was that engineers watch – the official timekeeper – had stopped the previous night for 4 minutes, then started ticking again. Shortly afterwards the two trains meet their destiny; the passenger train somehow managed to stop, but the fast mail train didn't even make an attempt to brake.
Following this disaster, the US Rail authorities found that many conductors on freight trains used cheap alarm clocks as master timekeepers. While the railroad service was expanding at a fast pace, the accuracy of railroad timepieces was completely inadequate.
From the ashes of the Ohio train disaster the phoenix rose in the form of the greatest American timekeeper: the great American railroad pocket watch; a watch unrivalled in quality and reliability.
By 1893 the General Railroad Standard for pocket watches were adopted:
"Be open face, size 16 or 18, have a minimum of 17 jewellers, adjusted to at least 5 positions, keep time accurately to within a gain or loss of only 30 seconds a week, adjusted to temperature of 34 to 100 Fahrenheit, have a double roller, steel escape wheel, lever set, micrometric regulator, winding stem at 12 o'clock, grade on back plate, use plain Arabic numbers printed bold and black on a white dial, and have a bold black hands".
The railman was required to buy a pocket watch more accurate than many scientific precision instruments used in laboratories, and the American pocket watch industry was compelled to produce such instrument. And to its credit, amazingly, it did.
For the next 50 years American railroad watches were amongst the finest, most accurate timepieces one could acquire. Produced to the highest standard, finely manufactured, perfectly adjusted, outshining and outperforming any Swiss mass-produced competitors.
Even today, a hundred years later, most Swiss wrist watches are just a pale shade of the American railroad pocket watches.
For many years, fine pocket watches were the mainstream of horological collections.
In comparison to pocket watches, most wrist watches produced between 1930s and 1960s were pathetically inferior, and as such, completely rejected by serious watch collectors.
Sadly, this trend has been reversed and the reviewal of pocket watches is highly unlikely. Modern Swiss manufacturing primarily focuses on mass-produced, average-quality, over-hyped and overpriced timepieces.
However even a novice watch enthusiast should at least have one pocket watch in his collection.
The pocket watch - the 'missing link' between the marine chronometer and your wrist watch - is out there, waiting to be 'discovered'.
In the early 1960s a Swiss watch movement manufacturer called Unitas developed a pocket watch mechanism which was regarded as robust and reliable, yet affordable enough to be fitted into pocket watches sold to the mass market.
Unfortunately, like a few similar pocket watch movements, this mechanism arrived on the horological scene too late. By the 1960s pocket watches were already out of fashion and further development on a mass scale made no financial sense. The movement was largely dormant, but thanks to its size, it was widely used as a learning tool for novice watchmakers. When large wrists watches became fashionable in the late 1990s, this very mechanism was 'discovered and resurrected' by Panerai and a couple of other small boutique brands who successfully reintroduced it to watch enthusiasts.
And this is the very same Unitas movement that ticks in your rebelde.
Complete the blanks:
Railroad _______________ are high quality precision timepieces, built to last for many generations.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Lesson 4: The Fundamentals of Horology
***The Fundamentals of
Horology
We have reached a point where I simply have to beg you for bit of patience!
Please bear with me and allow me to present my case.
Lesson 4 is not only the most important piece of 'knowledge' I can share with you but it deals with the very foundation of horology. Everything you will learn about watches and timekeeping from now on hinges around it and if you don't understand it properly you will never be able to create 'the big picture' - you will wander around, jumping from watch to watch, from forum to forum, gathering bits of knowledge here and there, yet unable to complete the puzzle.
However, if you understand the very core, everything else will fall in place, effortlessly.
I will keep it as brief as possible.
Suppose I am a Christian and I was asked by someone who never heard about Christianity to explain in one sentence the 3 pivotal, most important, fundamental parts of my beliefs.
I would offer this as an answer: An everlasting and omnipotent God created the world, sent his son to redeem humans and he will return to take us all to heaven. (If you are Christian you would probably agree with this, and your answer would be very similar to mine).
Now, if you ask me to define what horology is all about, and to present my case in one sentence, then my answer is this:
From the earliest days of history, humans have been desperately trying to master time: to measure it and record it as precisely and as accurately they can, undertaking one of the most exciting scientific and engineering challenges on which they have spent enormous amount of time and effort to achieve it.
There are 3 crucial moments in the history of horology.
1. Improvement of timekeeping of clocks by the application of a pendulum.
It was the Dutch scientist, Christiaan Huygens who, in 1656, first attached the pendulum to a clock mechanism.
By this ingenious marriage (clock + pendulum) the timekeeping of clocks was improved from 4-5 minutes per day to 1 second per month. This was an amazing, history-changing event and until the 1930s precision clocks were the most accurate timekeepers known to humans.
Note that clocks had already been around for hundreds of years, and the pendulum had been around for thousands of years, but it was Huygens who put the two together and enabled humans to master time at an unprecedented level.
2. The second most important horological event was watchmakers ability to create a portable clock which would be as accurate as Huygens stationary clock.
In order to achieve that, a new heart (mechanical oscillator) had to be invented and then improved. A number of watchmakers achieved this almost simultaneously in the late 1700s / early 1800s with the creation of the ship chronometer. This portable marine clock allowed humans to navigate the sea, to reach every corner of the world (and return home safely with spoils!).
The ship chronometer was really the global positioning system (GPS) of the time, a truly revolutionary milestone in the history of horology. Your mechanical wrist watch is an indirect descendant of this marine chronometer.
3. The third crucial achievement happened in 1949 when humans created the heart of the atomic clock.
The atomic clock took timekeeping and precision measurement to an exponentially new level. With our ability to measure time at this unprecedented level, we reached the moon and started solving mysteries of the Universe. The atomic clock opened a new era of human development and, in a way, we've become masters of our own time.
So there you go my watch enthusiasts. From now on, everything you learn about horology will relate to these 3 pivotal events. The more you understand the importance of these events, and the technical development and engineering challenges around them, the less you will focus on a particular brand of a watch, the colour of the dial, or a sales-pitch by an over-enthusiastic "authorized dealer". Actually, most watch dealers, shop keepers, watch forum guys and your fellow collectors are not even aware of the very foundation of horology or can name a single crucial event outlined above. But you now are, and you can name all 3 of them.
Every wrist watch you look at or consider buying would either fit in this big picture - or not.
TO DO: visit the exhibition on ships chronometers at the Australian National Maritime Museum.
www.anmm.gov.au/whats-on/exhibitions/on-now/ships-clocks-stars
This is about the fundamental point 2 on my list so is absolutely a MUST.
Once again, I am dead serious: if you want to put your name down for my rebelde watch but you cannot name the 3 most important historical horological events then you are just kidding yourself.
Fill in the blanks:
The first horological pivotal event was reached when Dutch scientist Huygens improved timekeeping of clocks by attaching the __________.
The second major event was the invention of the ________________ which enabled navigation at sea.
The final leap in human ability to measure time precisely was the invention of the ___________ clock.
Happy collecting,
Nick
We have reached a point where I simply have to beg you for bit of patience!
Please bear with me and allow me to present my case.
Lesson 4 is not only the most important piece of 'knowledge' I can share with you but it deals with the very foundation of horology. Everything you will learn about watches and timekeeping from now on hinges around it and if you don't understand it properly you will never be able to create 'the big picture' - you will wander around, jumping from watch to watch, from forum to forum, gathering bits of knowledge here and there, yet unable to complete the puzzle.
However, if you understand the very core, everything else will fall in place, effortlessly.
I will keep it as brief as possible.
Suppose I am a Christian and I was asked by someone who never heard about Christianity to explain in one sentence the 3 pivotal, most important, fundamental parts of my beliefs.
I would offer this as an answer: An everlasting and omnipotent God created the world, sent his son to redeem humans and he will return to take us all to heaven. (If you are Christian you would probably agree with this, and your answer would be very similar to mine).
Now, if you ask me to define what horology is all about, and to present my case in one sentence, then my answer is this:
From the earliest days of history, humans have been desperately trying to master time: to measure it and record it as precisely and as accurately they can, undertaking one of the most exciting scientific and engineering challenges on which they have spent enormous amount of time and effort to achieve it.
There are 3 crucial moments in the history of horology.
1. Improvement of timekeeping of clocks by the application of a pendulum.
It was the Dutch scientist, Christiaan Huygens who, in 1656, first attached the pendulum to a clock mechanism.
By this ingenious marriage (clock + pendulum) the timekeeping of clocks was improved from 4-5 minutes per day to 1 second per month. This was an amazing, history-changing event and until the 1930s precision clocks were the most accurate timekeepers known to humans.
Note that clocks had already been around for hundreds of years, and the pendulum had been around for thousands of years, but it was Huygens who put the two together and enabled humans to master time at an unprecedented level.
2. The second most important horological event was watchmakers ability to create a portable clock which would be as accurate as Huygens stationary clock.
In order to achieve that, a new heart (mechanical oscillator) had to be invented and then improved. A number of watchmakers achieved this almost simultaneously in the late 1700s / early 1800s with the creation of the ship chronometer. This portable marine clock allowed humans to navigate the sea, to reach every corner of the world (and return home safely with spoils!).
The ship chronometer was really the global positioning system (GPS) of the time, a truly revolutionary milestone in the history of horology. Your mechanical wrist watch is an indirect descendant of this marine chronometer.
3. The third crucial achievement happened in 1949 when humans created the heart of the atomic clock.
The atomic clock took timekeeping and precision measurement to an exponentially new level. With our ability to measure time at this unprecedented level, we reached the moon and started solving mysteries of the Universe. The atomic clock opened a new era of human development and, in a way, we've become masters of our own time.
So there you go my watch enthusiasts. From now on, everything you learn about horology will relate to these 3 pivotal events. The more you understand the importance of these events, and the technical development and engineering challenges around them, the less you will focus on a particular brand of a watch, the colour of the dial, or a sales-pitch by an over-enthusiastic "authorized dealer". Actually, most watch dealers, shop keepers, watch forum guys and your fellow collectors are not even aware of the very foundation of horology or can name a single crucial event outlined above. But you now are, and you can name all 3 of them.
Every wrist watch you look at or consider buying would either fit in this big picture - or not.
TO DO: visit the exhibition on ships chronometers at the Australian National Maritime Museum.
www.anmm.gov.au/whats-on/exhibitions/on-now/ships-clocks-stars
This is about the fundamental point 2 on my list so is absolutely a MUST.
Once again, I am dead serious: if you want to put your name down for my rebelde watch but you cannot name the 3 most important historical horological events then you are just kidding yourself.
Fill in the blanks:
The first horological pivotal event was reached when Dutch scientist Huygens improved timekeeping of clocks by attaching the __________.
The second major event was the invention of the ________________ which enabled navigation at sea.
The final leap in human ability to measure time precisely was the invention of the ___________ clock.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Wednesday, May 25, 2016
Lesson 3: Timekeeping is (almost) irrelevant
***Timekeeping is (almost)
irrelevant
I am not a sailor. Actually I have been known to get seasick riding on the E69 bus over the Spit Bridge.
But many of you are familiar with sailing and will appreciate the analogy.
Suppose I hire you (and your small sailing boat) to take me from Sydney to Hobart.
My only request is that we arrive there in exactly 3 days, 14 hours and 51 minutes.
"Ridiculous" - you say. "That is absolutely impossible! We may get there bit sooner or bit later, but certainly not at any predetermined time!"
And of course my request is ridiculous. The mighty forces of the wind and waves will make the journey over 1,170 km at a constant speed impossible.
The same is true for the ability of a mechanical watch (precisely: its heart) to tick at a steady beat when you constantly move your arm around. And not only you move your arm, but also when you hammer, play golf, ride a bike, play sports, shake hands, gesticulate and run - just to mention a few of your daily activities you don't even think about.
This constant movement of your arm create a mighty havoc [tsunami!!] of random forces which, in a fraction of a second, accelerate or slows down that little mechanical heart throwing it around like a tiny dingy on rolling seas.
As any sailor can testify: staying on a course to Hobart is a huge challenge in itself, let alone arriving there at a certain predetermined time.
Yet somehow, you expect your mechanical watch to overcome random man-created forces at a predictable rate – not mentioning gravity, variation in temperature, state of lubricant and internal forces which power the movement.
Despite all of that, mechanical wrist watches do actually keep remarkably accurate time. Out of 86,400 seconds per day most watches miss only a handful, resulting in accuracy of 99.99946 percent!
Watch enthusiasts who demand 'perfect timekeeping' are missing the point:
the journey to Hobart is all about arriving to the destination, conquering the mighty forces.
Getting there at any particular point of time is as irrelevant as it is impossible.
Time keeping is not about achieving perfection. Rather, it is a continuous horological attempt to reduce imperfection.
A $50 Seiko can be as accurate as a $50,000 Patek and a $10,000 Rolex can be as inaccurate as a $10 Raketa. Money cannot buy happiness, and as you now know, it cannot buy accuracy either.
Questions: there are _________ seconds in a day.
Considering the obstacles they have to overcome, mechanical watches are remarkably ________ timekeepers.
Happy collecting,
Nick
I am not a sailor. Actually I have been known to get seasick riding on the E69 bus over the Spit Bridge.
But many of you are familiar with sailing and will appreciate the analogy.
Suppose I hire you (and your small sailing boat) to take me from Sydney to Hobart.
My only request is that we arrive there in exactly 3 days, 14 hours and 51 minutes.
"Ridiculous" - you say. "That is absolutely impossible! We may get there bit sooner or bit later, but certainly not at any predetermined time!"
And of course my request is ridiculous. The mighty forces of the wind and waves will make the journey over 1,170 km at a constant speed impossible.
The same is true for the ability of a mechanical watch (precisely: its heart) to tick at a steady beat when you constantly move your arm around. And not only you move your arm, but also when you hammer, play golf, ride a bike, play sports, shake hands, gesticulate and run - just to mention a few of your daily activities you don't even think about.
This constant movement of your arm create a mighty havoc [tsunami!!] of random forces which, in a fraction of a second, accelerate or slows down that little mechanical heart throwing it around like a tiny dingy on rolling seas.
As any sailor can testify: staying on a course to Hobart is a huge challenge in itself, let alone arriving there at a certain predetermined time.
Yet somehow, you expect your mechanical watch to overcome random man-created forces at a predictable rate – not mentioning gravity, variation in temperature, state of lubricant and internal forces which power the movement.
Despite all of that, mechanical wrist watches do actually keep remarkably accurate time. Out of 86,400 seconds per day most watches miss only a handful, resulting in accuracy of 99.99946 percent!
Watch enthusiasts who demand 'perfect timekeeping' are missing the point:
the journey to Hobart is all about arriving to the destination, conquering the mighty forces.
Getting there at any particular point of time is as irrelevant as it is impossible.
Time keeping is not about achieving perfection. Rather, it is a continuous horological attempt to reduce imperfection.
A $50 Seiko can be as accurate as a $50,000 Patek and a $10,000 Rolex can be as inaccurate as a $10 Raketa. Money cannot buy happiness, and as you now know, it cannot buy accuracy either.
Questions: there are _________ seconds in a day.
Considering the obstacles they have to overcome, mechanical watches are remarkably ________ timekeepers.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Lesson 2: It's YOUR responsibility!
***It's YOUR responsibility!
We live in a day and age when shifting the responsibility to someone else is an art form.
However, when it comes to your watch, the responsibility for the performance and longevity cannot be delegated to a third party: the watch is yours and you are fully responsible for it.
The better you look after it, the longer it will last and the better it will perform.
Your mechanical marvel of engineering is built to last for decades and it will easily outlast me and you, and most likely a couple more generation of owners.
That is: if you take proper care of it.
For hundreds of years watchmakers have worked hard to design and construct timepieces which will withstand a significant amount of force, water pressure and variation in temperature.
Today, we've reached a stage where wrist watches are extremely robust and durable.
Yet they are not unbreakable. That little ever-ticking, ever-lasting mechanical heart needs as much love and care as it can get. If you abuse, drop or knock your fine timepiece, you will bear the consequences: your watch will lose its ability to keep time accurately.
In most cases the damage is irreversible. The repair process usually means replacement of vital parts which is both expensive and time consuming.
Fine mechanical watches are not guaranteed for damage caused by abusive use, lack of care, negligence or accidents. External components like the winding crown, bezel, crystal, pushers and bracelet are not covered by any guarantee. You break it, you pay for it. Watchmakers design, assemble, adjust and perfect: you wear it and you look after it.
Instead of asking "How far can I push it without causing serious damage?" you should really ask "What can I do to ensure that my watch will last for a hundred years?"
A responsible, sophisticated watch owner is proud of his precision instrument and does his absolute best to protect it from damage.
Fill in the blanks:
A mechanical wrist is a __________ instrument.
Accidental damage and external components including the _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ are not covered by the manufacturer's warranty.
Happy collecting,
Nick
We live in a day and age when shifting the responsibility to someone else is an art form.
However, when it comes to your watch, the responsibility for the performance and longevity cannot be delegated to a third party: the watch is yours and you are fully responsible for it.
The better you look after it, the longer it will last and the better it will perform.
Your mechanical marvel of engineering is built to last for decades and it will easily outlast me and you, and most likely a couple more generation of owners.
That is: if you take proper care of it.
For hundreds of years watchmakers have worked hard to design and construct timepieces which will withstand a significant amount of force, water pressure and variation in temperature.
Today, we've reached a stage where wrist watches are extremely robust and durable.
Yet they are not unbreakable. That little ever-ticking, ever-lasting mechanical heart needs as much love and care as it can get. If you abuse, drop or knock your fine timepiece, you will bear the consequences: your watch will lose its ability to keep time accurately.
In most cases the damage is irreversible. The repair process usually means replacement of vital parts which is both expensive and time consuming.
Fine mechanical watches are not guaranteed for damage caused by abusive use, lack of care, negligence or accidents. External components like the winding crown, bezel, crystal, pushers and bracelet are not covered by any guarantee. You break it, you pay for it. Watchmakers design, assemble, adjust and perfect: you wear it and you look after it.
Instead of asking "How far can I push it without causing serious damage?" you should really ask "What can I do to ensure that my watch will last for a hundred years?"
A responsible, sophisticated watch owner is proud of his precision instrument and does his absolute best to protect it from damage.
Fill in the blanks:
A mechanical wrist is a __________ instrument.
Accidental damage and external components including the _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ are not covered by the manufacturer's warranty.
Happy collecting,
Nick
Tuesday, May 24, 2016
Sink or Surf : Lesson 1.
***Sink or Surf
The list of stuff I am completely clueless about is endless. For example, I have no idea what the difference is between AFL and NRL. I cannot tell a $500 bottle of wine from a $5 one, or even name 2 beer brands, because I don't drink. And here is another area I know nothing about: recreational drugs. I would struggle to tell a Panadol pill from ecstasy - actually I have never seen a real drug pill in my life. And embarrassingly the list goes on: from golf to surfing, from literature to classical music.
Make no mistake: I guess I can easily afford a bottle of wine, a rugby jersey or a set of titanium golf clubs and a cool surf board but the mere possession of these objects would not make me any more enlightened - until I actually make some effort to study the matter, I will remain a clueless fool. Sadly, many of watch enthusiasts - even those with large watch collections and those who can easily afford $15,000 pieces - are completely ignorant of horological matters. And even more sadly, many of them make no effort to familiarize themselves with even elementary facts. Such bizarre attitude is a twofold disaster: they do no service to themselves, nor to me.
My message is simple: learn and respect, or go away.
In today’s day and age when information is both cheap and readily available, there is no excuse to remain ignorant. To buy a $5,000 watch and doing ZERO research is simply irresponsible. To strap on your wrist a fine timepiece without having the slightest clue of what it does, how to use it, or how to properly care for it, is a sign of the utmost arrogance and stupidity. And quite frankly, I have had enough of dealing with idiots. I would rather go broke than to sell a watch to someone who talks over me, does not listen or does not care. Instead I will double my efforts to educate and provide my services to those who care and who are willing to enhance their appreciation of watches.
And if you were in my position, you would do exactly the same.
Here is the plan:
For the next few weeks I intend to produce a few short 'lessons' on elementary horology.
If you are new to watches then you will appreciate them and learn a lot.
If you are an advanced collector, you will still find them interesting.
At the end of the lesson, there will be couple of questions so you can quiz yourself and self-assess your progress.
Lesson 1: Your mechanical wrist watch is a marvel of micro engineering
The wrist watch you wear today is nothing but a mechanical miracle.
It is the result of over 500 years of painstaking development. Countless numbers of very clever watchmakers and scientists spent their lives designing the inner mechanism; to shrink it so it could fit on your wrist and to perfect it so it can keep accurate time.
There is no other mechanical device out there which is as accurate as a wrist watch, that can operate constantly for decades with no maintenance, and that can be used deep under the water or on the Moon.
The finely designed and precisely executed heart of the watch is called the escapement. This mechanical oscillator ticks five times faster than your heart, it is adjusted to compensate for change in temperature, to overcome forces of gravity, to withstand shock. Missing just one tick every 30,000 ticks would create an error greater than 4 seconds per day. No other mechanical device designed in human history can perform at such level of accuracy for so many years, 24/7. And here is one more detail: a comparison between your wrist watch and your mobile phone or your computer would not be a fair proposal. Why? Because your mobile phone is not really a watch.
Your mobile phone is merely a display, a device which displays time generated by an atomic clock, far away. On the contrary, your mechanical wrist watch actually generates its own time. This is in itself is an amazing achievement, and for that reason alone, a sophisticated watch owner would appreciate it more than any other gadget. In other words, we wear mechanical watches because they are highly sophisticated mechanical devices, which, consequently, make us bit sophisticated as well.
Take a good look at your watch. Admire it. Enjoy it. And above all - respect it.
Fill in the blanks:
A mechanical wrist watch is product of ________ years of watchmaking development.
The heart of mechanical watch is called the _________________ .
So this is it: your first lesson on horology. Stay tuned for more and if you intend to add yourself to the list of proud rebelde owners, write your answers down and memorize them.
From now on, anyone wishing to order a rebelde watch and to call himself a proud owner of a rebelde watch must be able to correctly answer these and a few more questions.
A rebelde watch is simply too precious to be handed to an ignorant owner. I also invite existing rebelde owners to voluntary undertake the 'rebelde owners test' in a few weeks time. You will pass it, you will love it and you will be proud of yourself.
Happy collecting,
Nick
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